Question on 'dropped chain'?

I have a 2023 Turbo Vado 4.0 since beginning of September. I’ve had the chain drop three times all while going uphill at a significant incline (max wattage input by motor and me). I played with some adjustments after the second time but got another chain drop the other day, so…. I decided to make my own chain keeper out of plexiglass taking advantage of the existing bracket on the Vado for the chain guard. Here are some pictures
 

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Getting Creative. That's Great! The bend, like cross chaining is too much. Looks like an 11-sp chain. Better off going with a slightly smaller narrow/wide chainring. Large ones will drop more easily. Smaller will not drop but are slower on the top end, and they climb better. Narrow/Wide grabs the chain better, look for four hole, 110BCD on eBay, $27. Next, a nine-speed cassette of gears can offer the same over all range with a wider, stronger chain. These are on that big South American River site for $30. A KMC 9-sp eChain is another $32. I am loving the Box 3 9 Prime 9-sp 11-50 group sets.
 
I have had a Vado SL 4.0 from new for a few weeks. The chain has come off the front chain ring twice and jammed between the frame and the chain ring causing damage to the frame. The only way to release the chain was to undo the four Allen bolts holding the chain ring onto the spider. I took the bike into the local Specialized Concept Store for a look under warranty. Being a brand-new bike with less than 60 miles I doubt wear is the problem as discussed in the thread. The front "wave" pattern chain ring depends on a rear clutch derailleur to inhibit the chain from falling off. Either the SRAM GX 1x11 X-HORIZON Rear Derailleur is broken or not strong enough as used in the Specialized design/configuration. But I can't tell as my MTB has a Shimano XT Clutch.

Either way, the derailleur clutch being broken or not the fundamental design of the bike means that the chain coming off the chainring gets caught between the frame and the chainring. That's a really poor design. I love the bike but I'm considering rejecting it and sending it back for this reason alone. Hence the post. Is what I am observing normal for the Specialized Turbo Vado SL?
 
I ended up converting my temporary fix above for my 2023 Turbo Vado 4.0 to a more permanent solution. Since then, no chain drops, but I can tell the keeper is doing its job as there is a little wear on the nylon guide. By the way, the inspiration for this fix is based on the chain keeper that Specialized used its 12-speed mountain bikes (my Levo SL), so it is not an unusual solution.
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I purchased the following from Amazon (comes in red $28 or black $18):

Bike Chain Guide MTB Bike Protector Road Bicycle Mountain Cycle Chain Guide Tensioner with Hollowed Design for Single Disc Sprocket, Front Dial Smooth Driving(Red)​

chain keeper copy.jpg


You will notice I had to replace the red aluminum vertical piece of metal with a longer piece of aluminum which I had to drill holes.

It is a shame that Specialized did not do a better job on the total drivetrain system.
 

kpmnd85, that's brilliant engineering.​

But I'd say that it is more than a shame that Specialized did not do a better job on the total drivetrain system when they are selling a bike for 3,500 UK Pounds. It's totally unacceptable in the UK to sell a bike that isn't fit for purpose out of the box, unless it's sold as seen or it is made clear that modifications are needed.
 
Not sure if it applies to the SL, but at least on my Vado 3.0 there is an index tooth on the Praxis chainring. I only learned about this recently. When fitting the chain, this index tooth (sorry, not sure what the actual name is) should be placed at the top of the chainring revolution, then you seat the chain there, then continue on. I marked mine on the inside and outside of the chainring cover with a paint marker so I can easily find it in the garage or while riding. End result? No more chain drops.

Unless of course your chain is stretched...
 
I cannot understand why some people here experience any issues with "chain dropping" on the Vado:
  • Praxis Wave chainring with the tooth pattern holding the chain properly. (It is necessary to place the chain according to the chainring pattern).
  • The Shadow clutch at the derailleur (it needs to be engaged at all times except of removing the rear wheel). The clutch keeps the chain tensioned at all times.
  • Proper chain length, so the chain is correctly tensioned (too long a chain means trouble).
  • Properly adjusted derailleur (and straight derailleur hanger).
I have ridden my Vado 5.0/6.0 for 14,780 km without a single chain drop, and I rode rough terrain as well as inclines of 19%. Saying "Specialized should..." only reveals ignorance.

Yes, I had two chain drops on my Vado SL. It was only my fault! The reason was the derailleur had been totally out of adjustment, one full indexing position wrong (in the direction of the wheel). Once I adjusted the derailleur limit stops and indexing, any chain drop became impossible.

Chain guides are installed on MTB for a reason: the rider is not only riding extremely rough terrain but also does jumps; the chain may pop off the chainring there. But a Vado and its intended purpose?!
 
I cannot understand why some people here experience any issues with "chain dropping" on the Vado:
I have found 2 reasons for chain drops on the Vado:
  1. Stretched/worn chain.
  2. Inadequately lubricated chain / very dirty chain.
Both of these led to drops on my Vado. The drops occurred when on bumpy terrain, such as a local gravel path with small erosion washouts. Live and learn...
 
I cannot understand why some people here experience any issues with "chain dropping" on the Vado:
  • Praxis Wave chainring with the tooth pattern holding the chain properly. (It is necessary to place the chain according to the chainring pattern).
  • The Shadow clutch at the derailleur (it needs to be engaged at all times except of removing the rear wheel). The clutch keeps the chain tensioned at all times.
  • Proper chain length, so the chain is correctly tensioned (too long a chain means trouble).
  • Properly adjusted derailleur (and straight derailleur hanger).
I have ridden my Vado 5.0/6.0 for 14,780 km without a single chain drop, and I rode rough terrain as well as inclines of 19%. Saying "Specialized should..." only reveals ignorance.

Yes, I had two chain drops on my Vado SL. It was only my fault! The reason was the derailleur had been totally out of adjustment, one full indexing position wrong (in the direction of the wheel). Once I adjusted the derailleur limit stops and indexing, any chain drop became impossible.

Chain guides are installed on MTB for a reason: the rider is not only riding extremely rough terrain but also does jumps; the chain may pop off the chainring there. But a Vado and its intended purpose?!
Just because you don't understand something doesn't give you the right to personally call out others as ignorant. In that respect it is you that is ignorant as the version of Vado that you speak about with a shadow derailleur (Shimano) is different to the currently sold Specialized Turbo Vado SL 4.0 which has a SRAM Horizon NX that has an always on clutch (no switch) and compared to my other bike with a Shimano XT derailleur is a very weak clutch at that. Regardless, if a chain comes off a chain ring it is bad design that it can get trapped between the frame and the chainring.

Otherwise you do give really good bike maintenance advice. Very appropriate on a bike that's a) being setup for the first time or b) has observable problems on the routine check or c) has done the mileage that the bike manufacturer advises service requirements.
 
Meaning, the derailleur cage can be moved by hand at any time?
Yes, the derailleur cage can easily be moved by hand at any time. It has a button to hold the derailleur out of the way to aid wheel removal. But there's no on/off button or a way to adjust the tension on the derailleur, which when compared to my experience of Shimano's XT the SRAM Horizon NX has very weak tension. i.e. the SRAM Horizon NX clutch doesn't resist chain slap enough to work with the Praxis front chainring and in light offroad/pathway riding the bike is susceptible to the chain coming off the front chain ring. This would be a mild inconvenience if it wasn't for the fact that the chain gets stuck between the frame and the chainring. In the old days of front derailleurs, you would adjust the limit screws so the chain could not get trapped in this way. It's up to Specialized to specify the appropriate drive chain components for the intended use of a bike. Specialized, like many mass-market manufacturers, chose to mix and match drivetrain components from different suppliers. Specialized take a risk when it does as there is a risk that tolerances need to be higher than that designed into the individual components. Other bike manufacturers stick to a complete drivetrain from a single supplier (historically SRAM, Shimano, Campagnolo but there are others.).

I suspect that it's a relatively rare occasion when it happens, maybe after somebody has had the bike for a while and it's put down to poor maintenance or owner ignorance.
 
Yes, the derailleur cage can easily be moved by hand at any time. It has a button to hold the derailleur out of the way to aid wheel removal. But there's no on/off button or a way to adjust the tension on the derailleur, which when compared to my experience of Shimano's XT the SRAM Horizon NX has very weak tension. i.e. the SRAM Horizon NX clutch doesn't resist chain slap enough to work with the Praxis front chainring and in light offroad/pathway riding the bike is susceptible to the chain coming off the front chain ring.
Blame SRAM, not Specialized.
It's up to Specialized to specify the appropriate drive chain components for the intended use of a bike. Specialized, like many mass-market manufacturers, chose to mix and match drivetrain components from different suppliers. Specialized take a risk when it does as there is a risk that tolerances need to be higher than that designed into the individual components. Other bike manufacturers stick to a complete drivetrain from a single supplier (historically SRAM, Shimano, Campagnolo but there are others.).
Before the pandemic, Specialized used Shimano components. It was, for instance, Deore XT or SLX7000 on the Vado or Vado SL. The pandemic was the game changer: Shimano got into serious manufacturing or delivery chain issues while SRAM could deliver componentry.

I do not think anything is wrong with SRAM NX groupset. I expect bad adjustment of your derailleur (or too long chain). The issues often come just after the purchase and before the first "warranty validating" service.
 
Blame SRAM, not Specialized.

Before the pandemic, Specialized used Shimano components. It was, for instance, Deore XT or SLX7000 on the Vado or Vado SL. The pandemic was the game changer: Shimano got into serious manufacturing or delivery chain issues while SRAM could deliver componentry.

I do not think anything is wrong with SRAM NX groupset. I expect bad adjustment of your derailleur (or too long chain). The issues often come just after the purchase and before the first "warranty validating" service.
 
Popular ebike reviewer shifts into higher gear while climbing steep road at about the 18:30 mark. You should not make a habit of this with a mid-drive. He gleefully mentions the bike can handle it like a champ. I've also seen many of his reviews where he starts in high gear while in stop on mid drives. You can hear the chain just going slunk , slunk , slunk . I just can't anymore.👎
It makes sense why most popular ebike retailers only offer hub drives.

 
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Popular ebike reviewer shifts into higher gear while climbing steep road. I've seen many of his reviews where he starts from high gear while in stop on mid drives. I just can't anymore.👎
Did I mention I climbed a 19% ascent from the cold start? It was a 36-46T customized gearing and Turbo mode on my full-power Vado.
 
I can understand why you make your comments. I was brought up maintaining my own bikes and mixing and matching components. I built up plenty of bikes, including converting a Whyte T-129 to an e-bike using a Bafang mid-drive motor.

I bought the bike off Specialized not SRAM. Your comment is like saying that if I go and buy a BMW then I should blame ZF when the automatic transmission has a problem. No, I drive to the BMW dealership and say "The transmission isn't working, can you check it please?"..."Certainly Sir...I see you've kept to the maintenance schedule and there is nothing else wrong with the car"..."Yes there is a problem with the transmission, we will fix under warranty". And Yes, I've known people reject cars as not being fit for purpose. Guess what designers and engineers do get things wrong you know.

The Specialised Concept store has confirmed that there is nothing wrong with the derailleur or too long a chain. Hence over to Specialized.
 
I can understand why you make your comments. I was brought up maintaining my own bikes and mixing and matching components. I built up plenty of bikes, including converting a Whyte T-129 to an e-bike using a Bafang mid-drive motor.

I bought the bike off Specialized not SRAM. Your comment is like saying that if I go and buy a BMW then I should blame ZF when the automatic transmission has a problem. No, I drive to the BMW dealership and say "The transmission isn't working, can you check it please?"..."Certainly Sir...I see you've kept to the maintenance schedule and there is nothing else wrong with the car"..."Yes there is a problem with the transmission, we will fix under warranty". And Yes, I've known people reject cars as not being fit for purpose. Guess what designers and engineers do get things wrong you know.

The Specialised Concept store has confirmed that there is nothing wrong with the derailleur or too long a chain. Hence over to Specialized.
Change to Trek and try them.

@GuruUno are you there?
 
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