Is your motor uart I guess? I have not checked mine yet to see if its canbus or not.
Also is using PAS 1 in top gear or close fairly easy on the drive train? I usually stay in pas 1 but want to be in high gear for level ground other wise the cadence tends to get too fast.
I did some climbing up a steep rocky trail today and it climbed it really well. But going back down i need to work on lol. Its tough with fist sized rocks so I need to look up some videos on how to position yourself doing that.
Answers to COM3@9600 baud, anyway... As to UART vs CANBus, it has the "UART type" round connectors, not the "new type" D-shaped/house-shaped connectors, so... I guess, yes it appears to be using UART communication. I've seen posts stating that Bafang's new CANBus-only motor controllers use the D-shaped plugs, as one means of visual identification.
In
first gear,
even PAS 1 jumped in at around 50% of its power limit, until the pedal Torque sensor tab's Base Voltage mV was set slightly above the value shown in
TqVoltate(mV) with no pedal torque applied.
With its 48V battery, the voltage provided in PAS 1 only adds two or three gears to the range I can use with just moderate effort:
I can comfortably reach 11 MPH with ebike
off, 15 MPH in PAS 1. (I can
hold 18 MPH with the ebike off, but I can't regain that speed if I slow down!) Any speeds beyond 15 MPH, the voltage limit in PAS 1 is so low that drag feels accentuated.
I use PAS 1 to take off from 0 (or touch the front brake lever without squeezing enough to drag, thereby keeping the motor disengaged while I get rolling; especially useful if I've stopped in a later gear). PAS 2 & 3 for rolling along at cruising speeds on flat ground; PAS 4 for light hills or passing speeds over 25 MPH. I only use PAS 5 for onerous hill climbs or long wide open straightaways with nothing to hit.
After calibrating the Base Voltage setting for my pedal torque sensor (~ 752 mV), the pedal response actually engages gently, unless heavier pedal force is applied! Huzzah! Heavier pedal force is satisfyingly amplified. Starting from 0 MPH is
much smoother. Even when limited to 1% current, the assist upon takeoff is significant.
I turned most of the Pedal Assist modes
wayyyy down; sort of a curving ramped increase now, rather than a linear increase in the limit of current. When I am satisfied that the settings are as perfect for me as they could be, I'll check them on smaller riders, & then post my config .el file in appropriate channels.
I shift two clicks at a time on the SRAM 11-speed. Timing the clicks a split-second apart extends the motor cutout, giving the chainline time to settle into place while also skipping extra shifts through the most closely set gears. (These closely similar gears still offer welcome selection on hills & rough terrain.)
First gear is
very short; Taking off in 3rd is plenty smooth & gentle in PAS 1 or 2, now that I've dialed them back a bit & slowed the start. I still frequently use my brake levers to prevent any motor assist though, when maneuvering at such low speeds I don't need it.
Downshifting before a hill or while braking is
critical. DO NOT take off in last gear! The motor has plenty of power to do it, but the drivetrain doesn't need that kind of stress. I honestly try not to use last gear... by that point I'd be over 30 MPH before my feet could flail no faster; & I just don't need to go that fast on bicycle parts\trails. If I wanted higher top speed I'd swap the 40T chainring for a 42 or 44T: The last gear on that 1x12 is
sooo tiny; & taller gears are lower drag than short ones.
I don't want higher top speed though (yet?); what I really want is more traction during braking! Holy cow, fat tires are looking more appealing with every braking maneuver. It looks like 4 inch wide front tires, could fit the AM1000's stock Yari fork w\ mini fender flap?
The AM1000 definitely tends to bulldoze minor obstructions without fuss, rather than dance nimbly around them. Its wheelbase is even longer than my XL frame 29er! Setting up with high handlebars, seat lower than my usual, high shock pressure, & minimal damping of the return speed (both front & rear), is what I'd try, for rough rocky terrain. PAS 3 & 4,
after it's been torque calibrated!
I am very impressed with how well it rolls; especially the modern tires, actually! Even at low pressures, they displayed noticeably superior characteristics to my 29er's old tires. On old stiffer sidewall tires, I've always been a "max pressure" kinda guy; I'm sold on these newer more tires with thin sidewalls that are supple & bend easily without bulging. A world of difference in ride quality
and drag reduction, between these tires & older compounds I've ridden with the same tread pattern.