New Frey Owners

Wife bike was ready to ship last week. I emailed Frey for an update on her bike and the production of my BEAST .. have not heard anything back at all so I sent a pm through alibaba.. nothing again. Wondering what’s up or the best way to contact?
 
Received and email with a partial updated (one bike and not both).. I will take it the first bike is either close to shipping or has shipped.. And the second bike is going to paint in mid october for a Nov early december ship.. It will get here eventually..
 
Fedex finally picked it up today and it is coming next tuesday. I will update here once i have ridden it a bit and answer the things I asked about it originally. There is not a lot of reviews for this bike so I want to put out some information about it.
 
I suspect our bikes were on the same ship! (I noted that the shipping label on the way to port, listed 3 bikes not 1.)

FedEx logged the package 2021-10-08 (Fri) 4:29pm, & estimated an expected delivery date of 2021-10-13 (Wed), now listed as "Potentially Early" 2021-10-11 (Mon)!

Not bad for a bike originally expected to ship by Oct 15th?

Hopefully each of our shipments arrive all in good order!
 
The AM1000 arrived today!

Box was not scarred much at all (damage\loss in shipping was one of my worries). Everything inside was wrapped & packed very well, including our second battery.

No instructions whatsoever except for the Magura brakes!

Need a shock pump & a balance charger, to make sure everything's ready to ride. (Rear suspension needs more pressure, to bear my >250 lbs weight; no problem as it's nowhere near max pressure yet. New batteries should be tested & leveled!)

The pedal assist is much smoother than some user reviews led me to expect. The bike is fully rideable while turned off, so I hope to be able to set Pedal ASsist level 0, to offer about 5-10% power. (No need for PAS 0; I can just turn it off, for that!?) Using the throttle lever from a standstill feels abrupt, but once rolling it actually has quite a bit more fine control than user reports led me to believe. Pedal assist takes about a half turn of the cranks at reasonable pedal speed, before power kicks in. I had no issues with run-on yet.

As far as I can tell from one brief test, the motor power cutoffs for brake & shifter work instantly & power returns in a predictable fashion.

It's quite heavy for a typical bicycle, but only about twice the weight of my 29er with chain+lock. I personally have no trouble lifting it with one arm, so far. (After a long ride might be different!) The 'Walk' mode made taking it up the stairs effectively effortless.

I definitely want a riser handlebar stem (wasn't sure 'til I stood on it) & may not care about getting a dropper seatpost, since the double pivot rear suspension feels really plush so far (actually hoping to firm it up a lot once it's at proper pressure).

The display indicates that in the 2km it's been ridden during testing at Frey, it got up to what it thinks is 77kmh/47mph... If that's accurate, maybe I won't want a larger chainring (or longer cranks)! 45mph should be more than adequate for any of our needs! (Beyond that, forget 'non-motorized' 750 Watt limits & get a 'motorcycle'.)

Today being the 11th, I received the ebike 4 days before it was originally expected to ship.

Getting let into port seemed to take over a week; then there was no more good info at all while it got unloaded & sent through customs, until it was handed over to FedEx.

Once FedEx received it on Friday 2021-10-08, it crossed ~1050 miles by Sunday morning, bounced nonsensically between three cities in the metro area, & arrived at my door this afternoon.

Everyone here is eager to try riding it. I suspect it will fulfill each of our use cases very well; may order more or similar!
 
Sounds like the programming as been improved which is good. Mine should come later today. I have not heard of the balance charger before. Is that something they say you need?
 
It doesn't say out for delivery yet even though it is local so I think it is going to be delayed. Don't know why they are sitting on it.
 
I got the bike on Saturday and I like it so far. The motor noise is not very loud especially when in higher gear. I don't really notice any overrun except for the throttle a little bit and the pas is perfectly smooth with no fading. I like the suspension but need to get a better pump for the rear shock as it needs more air and the hand one I have gets too stiff. I have ridden it around with 1 battery so far and it feels pretty light when riding it around and unless you use the throttle the battery lasts a good while.
 
I have not heard of the balance charger before. Is that something they say you need?
A balance charger monitors each cell in a battery, charging them individually. Not all batteries are pre-wired for one, & I don't know what I might need, to balance these. (If I were going to open them up, I'd make a 53V or 60V pack!) Balance charging is best practice in the long run though, so I will look into it.

This AM1000 can be adjusted via the Frey (\Bafang) Config Tool, including the full Torque sensor calibration tab, so that's great news too.
 
Is your motor uart I guess? I have not checked mine yet to see if its canbus or not.

Also is using PAS 1 in top gear or close fairly easy on the drive train? I usually stay in pas 1 but want to be in high gear for level ground other wise the cadence tends to get too fast.

I did some climbing up a steep rocky trail today and it climbed it really well. But going back down i need to work on lol. Its tough with fist sized rocks so I need to look up some videos on how to position yourself doing that.
 
Is your motor uart I guess? I have not checked mine yet to see if its canbus or not.

Also is using PAS 1 in top gear or close fairly easy on the drive train? I usually stay in pas 1 but want to be in high gear for level ground other wise the cadence tends to get too fast.

I did some climbing up a steep rocky trail today and it climbed it really well. But going back down i need to work on lol. Its tough with fist sized rocks so I need to look up some videos on how to position yourself doing that.
Answers to COM3@9600 baud, anyway... As to UART vs CANBus, it has the "UART type" round connectors, not the "new type" D-shaped/house-shaped connectors, so... I guess, yes it appears to be using UART communication. I've seen posts stating that Bafang's new CANBus-only motor controllers use the D-shaped plugs, as one means of visual identification.

In first gear, even PAS 1 jumped in at around 50% of its power limit, until the pedal Torque sensor tab's Base Voltage mV was set slightly above the value shown in TqVoltate(mV) with no pedal torque applied.

With its 48V battery, the voltage provided in PAS 1 only adds two or three gears to the range I can use with just moderate effort:
I can comfortably reach 11 MPH with ebike off, 15 MPH in PAS 1. (I can hold 18 MPH with the ebike off, but I can't regain that speed if I slow down!) Any speeds beyond 15 MPH, the voltage limit in PAS 1 is so low that drag feels accentuated.

I use PAS 1 to take off from 0 (or touch the front brake lever without squeezing enough to drag, thereby keeping the motor disengaged while I get rolling; especially useful if I've stopped in a later gear). PAS 2 & 3 for rolling along at cruising speeds on flat ground; PAS 4 for light hills or passing speeds over 25 MPH. I only use PAS 5 for onerous hill climbs or long wide open straightaways with nothing to hit.

After calibrating the Base Voltage setting for my pedal torque sensor (~ 752 mV), the pedal response actually engages gently, unless heavier pedal force is applied! Huzzah! Heavier pedal force is satisfyingly amplified. Starting from 0 MPH is much smoother. Even when limited to 1% current, the assist upon takeoff is significant.

I turned most of the Pedal Assist modes wayyyy down; sort of a curving ramped increase now, rather than a linear increase in the limit of current. When I am satisfied that the settings are as perfect for me as they could be, I'll check them on smaller riders, & then post my config .el file in appropriate channels.

I shift two clicks at a time on the SRAM 11-speed. Timing the clicks a split-second apart extends the motor cutout, giving the chainline time to settle into place while also skipping extra shifts through the most closely set gears. (These closely similar gears still offer welcome selection on hills & rough terrain.)

First gear is very short; Taking off in 3rd is plenty smooth & gentle in PAS 1 or 2, now that I've dialed them back a bit & slowed the start. I still frequently use my brake levers to prevent any motor assist though, when maneuvering at such low speeds I don't need it.

Downshifting before a hill or while braking is critical. DO NOT take off in last gear! The motor has plenty of power to do it, but the drivetrain doesn't need that kind of stress. I honestly try not to use last gear... by that point I'd be over 30 MPH before my feet could flail no faster; & I just don't need to go that fast on bicycle parts\trails. If I wanted higher top speed I'd swap the 40T chainring for a 42 or 44T: The last gear on that 1x12 is sooo tiny; & taller gears are lower drag than short ones.

I don't want higher top speed though (yet?); what I really want is more traction during braking! Holy cow, fat tires are looking more appealing with every braking maneuver. It looks like 4 inch wide front tires, could fit the AM1000's stock Yari fork w\ mini fender flap?

The AM1000 definitely tends to bulldoze minor obstructions without fuss, rather than dance nimbly around them. Its wheelbase is even longer than my XL frame 29er! Setting up with high handlebars, seat lower than my usual, high shock pressure, & minimal damping of the return speed (both front & rear), is what I'd try, for rough rocky terrain. PAS 3 & 4, after it's been torque calibrated!

I am very impressed with how well it rolls; especially the modern tires, actually! Even at low pressures, they displayed noticeably superior characteristics to my 29er's old tires. On old stiffer sidewall tires, I've always been a "max pressure" kinda guy; I'm sold on these newer more tires with thin sidewalls that are supple & bend easily without bulging. A world of difference in ride quality and drag reduction, between these tires & older compounds I've ridden with the same tread pattern.
 
I want to try tweaking mine also as it sounds like it will be even smoother. Mine also just has round connectors but I will unplug it to verify. Do you think your settings would carry over well to the ex? I dont think there is much difference other than the ex is a little heavier I think?
 
I want to try tweaking mine also as it sounds like it will be even smoother. Mine also just has round connectors but I will unplug it to verify. Do you think your settings would carry over well to the ex? I dont think there is much difference other than the ex is a little heavier I think?
I don't think the EX is heavier, actually? (Also, we ordered the AM1000 with a rear-rack even though it mounts to the rear triangle.

Unfortunately, I am excessively tall & weigh a lot, with a lot of crank force at some times & very little at others. It's unlikely my settings would be ideal for a smaller or less forceful rider.

I'm also still turning the lower PAS settings down & haven't found a workaround for a few things.

Ideally, the controller would be even more programmable, with a separate tab of torque settings for each PAS mode.

Mostly I would recommend that anyone using a programming cable to tune their Bafang Ultra\m620\g510 powered ebike,
set the Base Voltage (mV) field first. Typical values seem to be around 747 to 752 mV. Whatever you set should be slightly higher than what your sensor detects with nothing on the pedals (indicated in the 'TqVoltate' field, when you click Get or Continuous Get). Swivel the pedal around & check again, several times, because it can vary by a few mV over time. Make sure the value in Base Voltage is always higher than any value shown in TqVoltate with no pedal force apllied.
 
OK, it cannot be done with the normal software, the config tool.

A special piece of software is needed to Ivy shared with me and I managed to get the upgrade done.
My HT now has throttle from zero!

Two stumbling blocks, 1) my antivirus software killed the file that Ivy send me every time, I had to make an exception in the setting for it.
2) the software body is in Chinese, two buttons and the instruction are in English.

It requires the USB programming cable and a laptop with the small .exe file on it.
It starts with running the little program with the USB side of the cable in the laptop, don't hook the cable to the bike yet!
Check the software finds the correct COM port, mine was COM5.
When that is OK, press Start Update and only than connect the green plugs of the bike to the programming cable.
The software will see the connection and the upgrade begins with unreadable text on my screen as it is an English laptop it doesn´t show the Chinese characters.
Once it´s finished (which is obvious on the screen) disconnect the connection between the bike and the USB cable.
Connect the screen back to the green connector and turn on the bike, after screen is on, lift the rear wheel and rock the throttle for a test spin........
Hi,

I know this is an old thread but hope you can help. I have the software you described (sent by Frey). For the longest time I couldn't get it to work. I thought the cable I got from the companny was bad, but just got a new one and still it's not working. I connected the cable to the laptop first. It selected the right COM, so I hit start update, then connected the other end to the bike green plug. All I see is this screen, which I couldn't understand. Is there something else I need to do before the software runs? Thank you!!
 

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Thank you for the link.....I saw that, but I need the one brake064 talked about which is a step before this one (this youtube also mentioned driver download). I couldn't download anything even after following instruction of clicking and connecting :( Freybike just told me to reconnect the cable, which I did several times and even got a new cable. I was just wondering if anything else needs to be done. I hope it's not because I have a defective product!
 

Try this link

Or this one. Giel knows his stuff.

 
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