Just found a cracked rim on my allant 8

I've never had a rotor glow, but back in my downhill racing days I would regularly get them hot enough that any sweat the dripped on them instantly flashed into steam! That said, thats some impressive wear on that rotor. I've gone through multiple pads on a rotor and never worn them down that far.
 
I've never had a rotor glow, but back in my downhill racing days I would regularly get them hot enough that any sweat the dripped on them instantly flashed into steam! That said, thats some impressive wear on that rotor. I've gone through multiple pads on a rotor and never worn them down that far.
ya lots of wear. I wonder if it is switching to the ceramic pads?
 
Were they sintered pads? I always thought cooling fins on calipers was a gimmick like the fins on an old Cadillac. Now I see why they could be useful.
no these are a different brand I used to use the Shimano metallic with fins. I like the fins it makes inserting them easy gives you a handle.
 
I wish there was an ice cube icon for 'Cool,' as a like option. I am digging multi-metallic pads. They have copper and bronze at about 25%.
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I bought a matura rotor as it's beefier than the Shimano. but it may not last as long as it only has .2mm of wear available. starts at 2mm and needs to not go past 1.8mm where Shimano starts at 1.8mm and can go to 1.5mm. though the rotor I pictured did not make it to 1.5mm
 
dont want that big of a tire. 2" is about the max I want so they get too draggy.
I understand it Steve. However, it is not only the tyre size but also the tread and the rubber components affecting the rolling resistance.
There's also a factor you seem to have overlooked. Each rim has its internal width (such as 25, 27, 30, or 35 mm). The rim is designed for a very specific tyre width so the latter works at the proper profile. Put too a narrow or too a wide tyre into a specific rim, and such a tyre gets improperly deflected, leading to poor performance and premature wear, especially for the side wall.

Bear in mind the bicycle wheel consists of as many as four components: the hub, the spokes, the rim, and the tyre, and each of these components affects all other!

Here is what DT Swiss recommends:
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Your Trek wheel with a given inner rim width is designed for a very specific tyre width range! (It is probably a 30 mm rim).
 
Yes but I also want to go tubeless. 2” tires work great 3mph faster 8 extra mile range and a softer ride over 2.4” tires.
And later you wonder your rim has cracked.
Foofer, there's a notion called "engineering". Please do not try outsmart engineers :)
 
ya lots of wear. I wonder if it is switching to the ceramic pads?
Ceramic pads are gentler on the rotor and cool better.... But typically don't have the maximum stopping power of metallic. I find them best suited for my riding as they have more than adequate stopping power and are quite too.
I'd go for the thicker rotor as the larger wear range is pointless if it fails prematurely due to abuse.
 
Yes but I also want to go tubeless. 2” tires work great 3mph faster 8 extra mile range and a softer ride over 2.4” tires.
It's not about the size, but the material.

Try Marathon Efficiency in 27.5" 60mm. Or the Conti Urban Contact 27.5-62 if you can find them. They're the fastest families of touring tires
 
Just logged in here after a bit of an absence. Funnily enough this morning I was replacing the rear wheel on my Allant+ 8 - because I had discovered cracks exactly like those pictured. 10 spokes affected, all drive side. This is after just 3000 miles, but a fair bit of that was touring (with a tent - carrying 25kg plus me). The rim is an Alexrims MD35.
I have only ever had 1 other rim suffer from cracks, and that was about 15 years ago on a Ridgeback Panorama tourer. Guess what - Alexrims then too. And I was doing a lot of touring then - in fact I was on tour in France when it went.

My Allant is over 2 years old, so no warranty. I couldn't find any compatible wheels that had anything like 35mm internal width - in fact the widest I could find were Bontragers with 20mm internal width. The Super Moto X 2.4" tyres look a bit odd on that rim, but they are within the ETRTO limits so should be OK. we'll see.

My takeaway is avoid Alexrims (at least on the back) if you like touring; and if you need to change rims expect to get something a lot narrower (at least here in the UK - may be different elsewhere).

Must say I think 3000 miles, even with the touring, is a very poor showing indeed.
 
Just logged in here after a bit of an absence. Funnily enough this morning I was replacing the rear wheel on my Allant+ 8 - because I had discovered cracks exactly like those pictured. 10 spokes affected, all drive side. This is after just 3000 miles, but a fair bit of that was touring (with a tent - carrying 25kg plus me). The rim is an Alexrims MD35.
I have only ever had 1 other rim suffer from cracks, and that was about 15 years ago on a Ridgeback Panorama tourer. Guess what - Alexrims then too. And I was doing a lot of touring then - in fact I was on tour in France when it went.

My Allant is over 2 years old, so no warranty. I couldn't find any compatible wheels that had anything like 35mm internal width - in fact the widest I could find were Bontragers with 20mm internal width. The Super Moto X 2.4" tyres look a bit odd on that rim, but they are within the ETRTO limits so should be OK. we'll see.

My takeaway is avoid Alexrims (at least on the back) if you like touring; and if you need to change rims expect to get something a lot narrower (at least here in the UK - may be different elsewhere).

Must say I think 3000 miles, even with the touring, is a very poor showing indeed.
ya I dont want that wide of a rim. but a velocity cliffhanger can handle the bigger tires. I think I will go with the same as my other bikes some dt-swiss rims.
 
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