Shea N Encinitas
Active Member
Kewl, nice that they now offer them in that size too. -SMine is 31.6
Body Float Suspension Seat Post Thoughts
- Thread starter James
- Start date
Cory151
Active Member
Mine is 31.6
Thank you, yes if you have a Stromer ST1 or ST2 the the seat stem size is 31.6mm and what shows up from bodyfloat is a 27.2mm, so you will need an adapter sleeve. Though I asked for one from Cirrus Cycles I didn't get one. I called twice today the (360)392-8302 and nobody picked up or called back so I just ordered one on Amazon.
Shea N Encinitas
Active Member
They do offer a 31.6mm 'post size' now. -S
Lenny
Well-Known Member
There is an option to choose 31.6 on their webpage.
Cory151
Active Member
I guess they don't really bother reading the orders as they come in or answer the phone since I stated (next to rider weight) it was for a Stromer, after calling on Monday to discuss before my order. I also initiated a conversation with a BodyFloat representative (Patrick)on here to discuss as well, and of course got not response.
This thing is going back, even with an adapter its just sliding down the tube on rides and I don't feel comfortable tightening the small clamp screw any tighter. Its a damn shame this company can't take time to answer customers questions so people don't have to go on old information heard on the internet. Shame on me for buying a $7,000 bike with whats considered the best warranty and customer service in the business and putting a $250 seat post from a company who won't pick up the phone.
Even withe correct size I have had to make clamp much tighter than I would like to prevent slipping. From my experience with the multiple seat posts I have tried it is by far a superior product, the quality of the build being the most obvious tolerances so tight, even when turning the adjustment screws, so smooth. If you weren't happy with their service (understandable!) check w/Lenny who supports this forum , helps almost anybody here.
Cory151
Active Member
Good call I just don't want to damage anything by wrenching down on it to keep it from slipping. I'm not doubting the quality of the product just the ability of Bodyfloat to connect with there customer base on any level.
I guess I could always get on Alibaba and try and talk to the parts manufacture direct if I had any super technical questions about spring rates and such.
Shea N Encinitas
Active Member
Gee mine has never slipped and I'm on a quick release. The machining of the collar creates horizontal grooves that seem to help slippage if anything. I had to use a $30 locking collar on another bike (bike jewelry, could of got a cheap one).. so maybe you can tighten it down or email them for an RMA to exchange for the diameter you need. -S
Sorry for the delays in responding to these threads...they are not something I regularly check and I've responded now to all the messages I've been sent. I will follow them much more closely from here out. Please shoot us any questions regarding BodyFloat tuning, adjusting and customization to your riding style. As an infinitely tunable system, BodyFloat can feel any way you desire it to feel. Also happy to address any comparisons to the Thudbuster, Suntour, Tamer, CGR, Ergon, RDO, etc. All of these provide solutions for certain riders, but only do a small part of what is possible under most riders, our designs addresses the true physics of the Body/Bike connection.
And regarding using shims. Shims often seem to come with poor finishing on the cuts. We recommend using a small round file and softening the top/bottom and cut line of the shim. This will relieve scratching of any post. Also, for more traction if slippage is an issue, gently scar the inside of the shim with a high-grit sand paper. Seat Clamp torque settings should not change by adding a shim, but that said... often tolerances can vary with post, frame and shim so additional tightening of the bolt may be necessary. Double shimming is not recommended and may cause a creak.
Patrick, I have my Float installed , I have set the markings to match at 1... after that I have done nothing but ride, is there a short version of final adjustment? I have misplaced/lost may manual thinking i would stop and read it while out riding. it is not in my paocket any longer..Thx
I would guess the manual is on line but this is so much easier (to be lazy)
I would guess the manual is on line but this is so much easier (to be lazy)
Couple of options: Firstly, continue to ride...if it works, don't change it! Simple increase tension on the rear pre-load bolt until you like it best.
For more detailed info, please look over the Advanced Tuning Chart. Remember this, the first thing you build when you build a house is a foundation. A crappy foundation will yield a crappy house. BodyFloat allows you to build the foundation between you and your bike, then let's you build on top of it whatever performance or comfort metric you desire. Yes...it can be complicated, but tuning a motor to a chassis is not a simple feat. The more discerning the rider and bike, the more specific you can tune it and the more time it can take. For simple tuning, just sit and ride. I can tune people in well under 5 min...but have also spent hours dialing in their bodies to their bikes.
If you want to truly enhance the performance and comfort options on BodyFloat, go through the process of Neutralizing your body on your bike. This means riding at your regular output with proper saddle height and tightening the pre-load bolt until you feel a stable, firm saddle under you, experiencing very minimal bounce or movement of the BodyFloat. From here, confirm you saddle height. If you take your hands off the bars or try to bounce...it will...and it should. But you don't ride like that so don't tune like that. Tune BodyFloat to how YOU ride. Once your neutral is confirmed, you can then remove pre-load and thus reducing spring tension and allow for your body to become the amazing damper that it is. The closer you are to neutral, the firmer, more responsive the feel...this is the Race feel. As your remove pre-load, BodyFloat allows the bodies joints and fluids to help damp the high frequency noise.
There are many options for feel, depending on what you desire. I ride my ST1 generally on a "B" spring rate (170lbs: B = Black over Purple) with minimal pre-load. This allows the bike to move around under me freely yet I can maintain constant contact, and I find that best for riding a 60 lbs bike. When I put BodyFloat on my race bike, I increase pre-load to about a 3.5 and get a super firm feel but can drive it much harder. So many options...so little time.
For more detailed info, please look over the Advanced Tuning Chart. Remember this, the first thing you build when you build a house is a foundation. A crappy foundation will yield a crappy house. BodyFloat allows you to build the foundation between you and your bike, then let's you build on top of it whatever performance or comfort metric you desire. Yes...it can be complicated, but tuning a motor to a chassis is not a simple feat. The more discerning the rider and bike, the more specific you can tune it and the more time it can take. For simple tuning, just sit and ride. I can tune people in well under 5 min...but have also spent hours dialing in their bodies to their bikes.
If you want to truly enhance the performance and comfort options on BodyFloat, go through the process of Neutralizing your body on your bike. This means riding at your regular output with proper saddle height and tightening the pre-load bolt until you feel a stable, firm saddle under you, experiencing very minimal bounce or movement of the BodyFloat. From here, confirm you saddle height. If you take your hands off the bars or try to bounce...it will...and it should. But you don't ride like that so don't tune like that. Tune BodyFloat to how YOU ride. Once your neutral is confirmed, you can then remove pre-load and thus reducing spring tension and allow for your body to become the amazing damper that it is. The closer you are to neutral, the firmer, more responsive the feel...this is the Race feel. As your remove pre-load, BodyFloat allows the bodies joints and fluids to help damp the high frequency noise.
There are many options for feel, depending on what you desire. I ride my ST1 generally on a "B" spring rate (170lbs: B = Black over Purple) with minimal pre-load. This allows the bike to move around under me freely yet I can maintain constant contact, and I find that best for riding a 60 lbs bike. When I put BodyFloat on my race bike, I increase pre-load to about a 3.5 and get a super firm feel but can drive it much harder. So many options...so little time.
So at setting 1 i am on as soft as it gets? I have an st1 also but weigh 220, let me check my colors when i get home,this was a present so I don't know what weight was used. I seem to go faster but mu rear is numb and hurts quicker. I did get a new seat also but it felt about thew same as far as numb and time before pain began
At 220 you should be on an Orange/Orange spring (or Orange/Black if you're a really smooth rider). Regarding the numb butt...that has much more to do with the saddle you're on and how you are sitting on it. Once the BodyFloat is under you, you should be able to hold and maintain much more weight in the saddle. Remember to stand up once in a while off the BodyFloat, as saddle connection is critically important but so is getting blood flow down there. A cushy saddle will often lead to more numbness due to increased surface area contact. Maybe try a leather saddle such as a Brooks or Selle Anatomica, which I prefer on my Stromer. What saddle and what spring combo are you on?
Brian Lee
Member
I bottomed out and broke one small part on my BodyFloat due to my not having it adjusted correctly. I reported the problem to BodyFloat and just got a personal visit from Charlie Heggem from Cirrus Cycles! Talk about customer service! He fixed the problem, properly fitted me to the bike, and custom adjusted it to me. All I can say is that I now feel completely one with the bike, more comfortable, and more efficient. This is a fantastic product from a company that clearly cares about their customers!
Brian Lee
Member
I had Orange (top) and Black (bottom), but Charlie swapped them so the Orange is on the bottom. He also removed one of the two elastomers and set the preload and seat angle with me on the bike. The difference was immediately evident. I think the goal is to get the rider in static equilibrium relative to the springs while allowing for the maximum travel under compression. The preload can then be backed off 1-2 turns to dial in the comfort factor. Hopefully Charlie will see this reply and correct any misstatements on my part.
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