The Ultimate Mid-Drive Chain Care Thread

[PedalUma]

Sometimes I buy generic or not top brands. I purchased a box of sintered brake pads this week. 25 pairs with pins and stainless springs was $65. It came with some bonus parts. No one will know or care that they do not have a logo. Just that they stop very well. SRAM or Shimano would be $20 per pair at a bike shop. $20x25=$500. MicroShift makes a trigger shifter for Shimano IGH that is nicer than Shimano's and costs like $15 bucks. It is a big improvement over a twist shift.

 

[TomD]

Good to know, I guess I shouldn't have cheaped out going with the lowest price on eBay. Steep and cheap which is a reputable seller had it for a buck more than eBay but I didn't want to pay shipping so went the eBay route.

https://www.steepandcheap.com/b/shimano-cs-m4100-cassette?skid=SHIU1CC-SIL-S114

Here's a video showing the play in the cassette that I noticed.

Edit: just tightened up the cassette and the play is gone. I guess we'll see if this fixes my skipping issues. My torque wrench didn't fit the cassette tool so after hand tightening I applied wrench from 3:00 position to about 5:00 until it took a bit of force to tighten another notch. Hopefully I did it right and didn't tighten too much. Shrug.

 

[stompandgo]

Gudentight is good enough. I've never used a torque wrench on a cassette lockring.

 

[fooferdoggie]

Edit: just tightened up the cassette and the play is gone. I guess we'll see if this fixes my skipping issues. My torque wrench didn't fit the cassette tool so after hand tightening I applied wrench from 3:00 position to about 5:00 until it took a bit of force to tighten another notch. Hopefully I did it right and didn't tighten too much. Shrug.

I(dont use a torque on it jsut put a fair amount of tightening till it feels like it wont move anymore.

 

[TomD]

Well, tightening up the cassette didn't fix my issue, so I think I probably just needed a new cassette. Derailleur hanger angle looks good. The mechanic that came out to fix my broken spoke did adjust my b screw but I can't imagine that or barrel tension would be the issue since it's only skipping in the smallest cog under load. I guess I'll wait and see if a new cassette solves things when it arrives.

 

[PedalUma]

Well, tightening up the cassette didn't fix my issue, so I think I probably just needed a new cassette. Derailleur hanger angle looks good. The mechanic that came out to fix my broken spoke did adjust my b screw but I can't imagine that or barrel tension would be the issue since it's only skipping in the smallest cog under load. I guess I'll wait and see if a new cassette solves things when it arrives.

The thing to consider is the smallest cog may only have 5 teeth in contact with the chain at a time because it has 11 teeth. But with a 32 cog about 15 teeth are in contact with the chain. The load is better distributed; less concentrated. Sometimes you can just buy an 11-t cog, just replacing that.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

It is a 11-speed Shimano CS-M5100 with the 5 smallest sprockets replaced and matched (a custom build). So, the gear spread is 2 teeth apart for higher speeds but there is a distinct jump towards mountain gears at Gear 6 (whichever way you count the gears).

 

[fooferdoggie]

I find if I have slop in the cassette, a spacer is missing. Though that's pretty obvious.

 

[Gionnirocket]

Usually you get slop in a cassette from too much fast forwarding and rewinding.
Since switching to CD and MP3, it's a non issue.

 

[TomD]

Thanks, since I already have a cassette on the way, I'll put the small cog on the old cassette to see if that solves the problem. Since the new cassette is only 20 bucks more it would probably be pennywise and pound foolish not to replace the whole cassette. Maybe next time my outer cog wears out though!

 

[PedalUma]

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It is a 11-speed Shimano CS-M5100 with the 5 smallest sprockets replaced and matched (a custom build). So, the gear spread is 2 teeth apart for higher speeds but there is a distinct jump towards mountain gears at Gear 6 (whichever way you count the gears).

It is also why it takes longer to fully pull chain through to engage a large/low gear cog. And you need to back off pedal pressure to do it smoothly. On a climb I will go sideways to the slope when hitting the granny gears. 51-t is huge. It takes about 32cm of chain to fully engage. On a typical chainring that can be 3/4 of revolution of the crank to fully engage for most setups.

This bike is a 42 to 50-t Shimano Cues gravel setup. Under high load it is dropping the chain in low gears. Next week it is getting a chain guide which should help. It has a 10mm offset chainring but the motor pushed out the chainline. It worked great in the work stand but that is not under the load of a climb with a powerful motor.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

With the Wheeltop EDS OX2.0 electronic derailleur the shifting is immediate between any gear. You can actually depress the shifter button to go through the whole range in a very short time.

 

[stompandgo]

With the Wheeltop EDS OX2.0 electronic derailleur the shifting is immediate between any gear. You can actually depress the shifter button to go through the whole range in a very short time.

I have that capability shut off with my Di2. I limit it to 2 cogs at a time with a full push on the paddle.

 

[BEC111]

I just reread this thread in the midst of deciding what to do about my drivetrain. My current chain has about 4000 miles on it and is just barely hitting the .5 mark on wear. The cassette has about 8800 miles on it. So, I’m probably due for a new chain. I’ve tried to determine the health of my cassette and it seems ok and my LBS mechanic says it seems OK too. (Deore 10 speed on original Specialized Turbo Vado SL 4.)

I‘ve used several different lubes, mostly Rock & Roll Gold. I recently switched to SILCA Synerg—E which is definitely much better than the Rock & Roll Gold. Waxing seems to be overkill as I ride about 1500 miles per year and hitting 4000 miles on a chain and 9000 miles on a cassette in 5 plus years makes the “Zero Friction” cost equation irrelevant.

I think I’ll replace my chain today since I have the time and the chain. If all is well and theres no problem shifting, I guess I can go another season. If there are issues it’s time to get a new setup. My shop recommends CUES 11 speed and new brakes too. This was my thoughts too, though I’d not considered the brakes.

Does any of this make sense? Any suggestions on drivetrain replacement?

 

[Stefan Mikes]

If it ain't broken don't fix it Unless you want to burn some money as I did recently.

4000 miles and the chain barely worn out? I must live in a totally different world...

 

[DaveMatthews]

I just reread this thread in the midst of deciding what to do about my drivetrain. My current chain has about 4000 miles on it and is just barely hitting the .5 mark on wear. The cassette has about 8800 miles on it. So, I’m probably due for a new chain. I’ve tried to determine the health of my cassette and it seems ok and my LBS mechanic says it seems OK too. (Deore 10 speed on original Specialized Turbo Vado SL 4.)

I‘ve used several different lubes, mostly Rock & Roll Gold. I recently switched to SILCA Synerg—E which is definitely much better than the Rock & Roll Gold. Waxing seems to be overkill as I ride about 1500 miles per year and hitting 4000 miles on a chain and 9000 miles on a cassette in 5 plus years makes the “Zero Friction” cost equation irrelevant.

I think I’ll replace my chain today since I have the time and the chain. If all is well and theres no problem shifting, I guess I can go another season. If there are issues it’s time to get a new setup. My shop recommends CUES 11 speed and new brakes too. This was my thoughts too, though I’d not considered the brakes.

Does any of this make sense? Any suggestions on drivetrain replacement?

I use Squirt lube, and it is wax based.
At this point I have over 7000kms/4400mi and the chain measures under .5
I cannot really say it's the lube, my riding/shifting style or what but I'll take it!

 

[RunForTheHills]

I just reread this thread in the midst of deciding what to do about my drivetrain. My current chain has about 4000 miles on it and is just barely hitting the .5 mark on wear. The cassette has about 8800 miles on it. So, I’m probably due for a new chain. I’ve tried to determine the health of my cassette and it seems ok and my LBS mechanic says it seems OK too. (Deore 10 speed on original Specialized Turbo Vado SL 4.)

I‘ve used several different lubes, mostly Rock & Roll Gold. I recently switched to SILCA Synerg—E which is definitely much better than the Rock & Roll Gold. Waxing seems to be overkill as I ride about 1500 miles per year and hitting 4000 miles on a chain and 9000 miles on a cassette in 5 plus years makes the “Zero Friction” cost equation irrelevant.

I think I’ll replace my chain today since I have the time and the chain. If all is well and theres no problem shifting, I guess I can go another season. If there are issues it’s time to get a new setup. My shop recommends CUES 11 speed and new brakes too. This was my thoughts too, though I’d not considered the brakes.

Does any of this make sense? Any suggestions on drivetrain replacement?

If you mean new brake pads, sure. Replacing the brakes would only make sense if you are unhappy with the performance of you current brakes for some reason.

 

[stompandgo]

I just reread this thread in the midst of deciding what to do about my drivetrain. My current chain has about 4000 miles on it and is just barely hitting the .5 mark on wear. The cassette has about 8800 miles on it. So, I’m probably due for a new chain. I’ve tried to determine the health of my cassette and it seems ok and my LBS mechanic says it seems OK too. (Deore 10 speed on original Specialized Turbo Vado SL 4.)

I‘ve used several different lubes, mostly Rock & Roll Gold. I recently switched to SILCA Synerg—E which is definitely much better than the Rock & Roll Gold. Waxing seems to be overkill as I ride about 1500 miles per year and hitting 4000 miles on a chain and 9000 miles on a cassette in 5 plus years makes the “Zero Friction” cost equation irrelevant.

I think I’ll replace my chain today since I have the time and the chain. If all is well and theres no problem shifting, I guess I can go another season. If there are issues it’s time to get a new setup. My shop recommends CUES 11 speed and new brakes too. This was my thoughts too, though I’d not considered the brakes.

Does any of this make sense? Any suggestions on drivetrain replacement?

Stick with Deore unless you want to reduce weight. Brakes, what are your priorities?

How is the Silca better than R&R Gold?

 

[BEC111]

If it ain't broken don't fix it Unless you want to burn some money as I did recently.

4000 miles and the chain barely worn out? I must live in a totally different world...

I agree. But I’m dumb sometimes.

I measured and though borderline I decided to replace the chain. Getting it off was easy. Measuring the new chain was pretty easy too. But I wasn’t strong enough to break the chain so I decided to put the old chain back on and bring it to the shop. And I wasn’t strone enough to pull the chain together and engage the master link. So I’m off to the shop. Lesson learned.