Here's a tool to NOT buy:

Pro Bike Tool Shock Pump...
Instead I just received this one:

LEZYNE Digital Shock Drive Bicycle Hand Pump, High Pressure 350psi​


Which has cost me about $95.

"$95 you say? I see it on Amazon for $75."
Me: "It cost me $20 to buy the cheap one I just had to throw away. Once again, cheapening out ends up being more expensive"
 
BTW, the Lezyne is just a breeze to use. Pretty easy pumping even over 200psi, easy reading of pressure on the digital gauge. The only nit I have is that you have to be careful when threading onto the shock as it seems easy to go on cock-eyed, which would be bad if you end up cross-threading something aluminum. My SOP (Standard Operating Procedure) for many threaded things is to first turn them the loosening way until the lead thread "pops" off the other side's lead thread, at which point any tightening turning engages right away.
 
My SOP (Standard Operating Procedure) for many threaded things is to first turn them the loosening way until the lead thread "pops" off the other side's lead thread, at which point any tightening turning engages right away.
Every time! My buddy loved to wrench on cars. He thought me this. He is left-handed, so I think it was natural for him to start that way.

Everyone should practice this. You really don’t cross threaded nuts and/or bolts.
 
Here's a tool to NOT buy:
View attachment 161415

Pro Bike Tool Shock Pump.
First, it's hard to pump once you get beyond about 120 psi.
Second, the release valve seems to let out air, and not just the air in the hose as claimed. That's because the screw action is so slow.
Third, in order to use it you're holding the end that has the air release valve and gauge. So you either accidentally release some air while pumping unless you hold it just so.
Fourth, and the fatal flaw, since you're holding the gauge, you're putting pressure on it and it's just plastic, so after a few uses you'll probably do like I just did and break the gauge off.

"Other than that, Mrs Lincoln, how did you like the play?"
I got this RockShox unit...


Yes, it can get a little difficult to pump, but not too bad. I put the end near the gauge on the pivot of the rear shock so that I can use full force of my right hand whilst pumping.
Had it for over 2 years now and it's been flawless so far.
 
Not to get too far afield, but more than a couple reviews pointed out that many of the popular shock pumps, including the RockShox units, appear to be identical and made in the same factory. For instance this review, which says in part:

Below, we review nine shock pumps to see what the options are. Keep in mind that many of these pumps come out of the same factory, and so many share damning similarities – as apparent by the key measurements.
 
Here's one probably most have never seen.
BsQdjj.jpg


Under 20 of them were made in the early 1900's. Not many of them are left, but those that are still working all reside in Lancaster. This one was in Holmes County Ohio in a harness shop that was going out of business. They had two of them and both ended up in Lancaster.
 
Here's one probably most have never seen.
BsQdjj.jpg


Under 20 of them were made in the early 1900's. Not many of them are left, but those that are still working all reside in Lancaster. This one was in Holmes County Ohio in a harness shop that was going out of business. They had two of them and both ended up in Lancaster.
Where did you get the miniature dollhouse chair?
 
Where did you get the miniature dollhouse chair?
Huge isn't it? It weighs almost 1000lbs. I think I know which shop one of them ended up in. I had a local carriage shop fix the top to my large canopy. They were using an industrial machine, but not one like that. Nice young Amish man fixed it for me. Those going into Amish shops mean they'll get used for another 100 years.
 
@JedidiahStolzfus,
A 200 year tool, what a contrast to this disposable economy of today. I see people with a drawer of remotes for stuff that has come and gone. Right now I am making a $100 bike. I purchased it for $100 and am thoroughly overhauling everything. That will push out its imbedded carbon footprint another 12 or 13 years. It is a beautiful bike that is perfectly good if maintained. Maybe it can be overhauled then again. People will toss stuff out to the landfill just to acquire the next shinny thing only to toss that out. I agree with the point of view of using quality tools and skills that will never become obsolete.
 
@JedidiahStolzfus,
A 200 year tool, what a contrast to this disposable economy of today. I see people with a drawer of remotes for stuff that has come and gone. Right now I am making a $100 bike. I purchased it for $100 and am thoroughly overhauling everything. That will push out its imbedded carbon footprint another 12 or 13 years. It is a beautiful bike that is perfectly good if maintained. Maybe it can be overhauled then again. People will toss stuff out to the landfill just to acquire the next shinny thing only to toss that out. I agree with the point of view of using quality tools and skills that will never become obsolete.
I do my best to buy vintage tools to use in my workshop. The oldest one I have is a Sprunger Jointer made in 1958. I have a lathe from 1962, Radial Arm Saw from 1977, Table saw from 1987 a Rockwell full size Drill Press from 1965. Some of them needed fixed when I got them, the lathe, I'm the second owner.
 
It is funny. Just moments after posting the above as I was installing fenders, at that moment I needed to make a tab on the rear to fit the stays behind the center kickstand. The tool for that was 18" long 1890's tin snips.
 
I used to have my Dads old chisels, including 1/4 inch one that he stabbed into the Thenar of his left hand thumb. This had to be removed in the hospital.

They’ve now gone to a local charity called “Men in Sheds”.

DG…
 
If you were to slip a little O ring over that lever, it might provide enough friction to mitigate that problem. Or make it go away. Or fix it. Or whatever.

I did that with my Crank Brothers multi tool.

The chain breaker was Always flopping around. If I tightened it up until the threads would bind, it would be poking out.
An O-ring fixed it,..
Now I can snug it up flat before the threads bottom out.


20231027_164908.jpg
20231027_165039.jpg
 
Back