Hyperfat 1100 and Ripcurrent S Tires and Tubeless Maxxis Minions

tcombest

tcombest

Member
I’ve put about 200 miles on my new 1100. The slicks are very fast and light for road riding. And I have no problem with them. But I like big knarly knobby tires. I decided to upgrade to Maxxis Minion exo TR tires, set up tubeless. Two tubes and two Mr. Tuffys weigh over 3lbs. On my 2019 hyperfat 1100, I put a 4.8 on the front and a 4.0 on the rear. The double wall rims are great for going tubeless. The spokes are somewhat inset. You can trim excess off the rim strip to allow more tape contact. 2 3/4 gorilla black tape fits perfect in the rim. I taped over the rim strip. A 4.8 (actually 4.5) will just fit on the front. It will NOT fit on the back. You will lose 3 gears. The 4.0 (actually 4.1) fits great on back and you lose no gears. The beads on these TR minions seat up very easily going tubeless. Don’t try tubeless with the non-TR 4.8 minions. It is a nightmare. Bead diameter is way too wide. I am converting my Ripcurrent S tomorrow to the same setup. I’ll try and get a video up on YouTube. The RCS is easier because you can unplug and remove the rear wheel. The HF1100 has a heat shrink wrapped plug that you don’t want to cut/remove. There are actually 3 wires under that heat shrink and they are also heat shrinked. Flip your bike upside down. Set a cooler or bench next to the bike. Cut the 3 zip ties on the power cable to give you some cable room. You can remove the tire and set it on the bench to change the tire while the power cable is still intact. This tubeless conversion with these tires works very easy and is a nice setup. It’s easy to reattach the cable with zip ties.

Ok, I did a pretty crummy job of making a video of the tubeless process, but it does have some good info in it. The link is in a post below...
 
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Have you noticed any tire rubbing with the stock 26x4 slick tires? I am experiencing the exact same issues you report (chain rub on lower 3 gears) but with the stock tires.
 
Something sounds really wrong here. You should not be rubbing in any gear with the slicks. They are only 3.5” wide. You might post some pics or just holler at Juiced.
 
tcombest said:
I’ve put about 200 miles on my new 1100. The slicks are very fast and light for road riding. And I have no problem with them. But I like big knarly knobby tires. I decided to upgrade to Maxxis Minion exo TR tires, set up tubeless. Two tubes and two Mr. Tuffys weigh over 3lbs. On my 2019 hyperfat 1100, I put a 4.8 on the front and a 4.0 on the rear. The double wall rims are great for going tubeless. The spokes are somewhat inset. You can trim excess off the rim strip to allow more tape contact. 2 3/4 gorilla black tape fits perfect in the rim. I taped over the rim strip. A 4.8 (actually 4.5) will just fit on the front. It will NOT fit on the back. You will lose 3 gears. The 4.0 (actually 4.1) fits great on back and you lose no gears. The beads on these TR minions seat up very easily going tubeless. Don’t try tubeless with the non-TR 4.8 minions. It is a nightmare. Bead diameter is way too wide. I am converting my Ripcurrent S tomorrow to the same setup. I’ll try and get a video up on YouTube. The RCS is easier because you can unplug and remove the rear wheel. The HF1100 has a heat shrink wrapped plug that you don’t want to cut/remove. There are actually 3 wires under that heat shrink and they are also heat shrinked. Flip your bike upside down. Set a cooler or bench next to the bike. Cut the 3 zip ties on the power cable to give you some cable room. You can remove the tire and set it on the bench to change the tire while the power cable is still intact. This tubeless conversion with these tires works very easy and is a nice setup. It’s easy to reattach the cable with zip ties.

Ok, I did a pretty crummy job of making a video of the tubeless process, but it does have some good info in it.

Click to expand...
Both your rear tires are rubbing on the chain - can tell that the sidewalls are getting burnished by the side of the chain.
 
I don’t think so. The way the Minions tread/casing is made, it appears there is a burnishing around the perimeter of the tire where the chain WOULD rub if in a lower gear. You said both tires are burnished and rubbing. The Minion is brand new and never been ridden or rubbed. I just took it out of the box and mounted it. The Jugger came off a Rad and possibly rubbed some on it before I put it on the Rip. I did a lot of trail riding on the Rad where it could have slapped. But from my experience, the Rad has more clearance than the Rip.

In my opinion, riding rough trails on the inner cog, any fat bike tire width will experience some chain slap, and maybe some marks on the casing. I’m really not concerned about that. I rarely use my three inner cogs, especially the innermost. All I’m trying to demonstrate in the post is that you can run 4.0 minions, although it is close (if you do a lot of low gear riding).
 
tcombest said:
Something sounds really wrong here. You should not be rubbing in any gear with the slicks. They are only 3.5” wide. You might post some pics or just holler at Juiced.
Click to expand...

They're 4 inches wide according to spec, I haven't actually measured them though.

I talked to Juiced support, they have no idea based on video. I'm going to have to take it to an LBS so they can see if anything looks wrong.
 
That is really odd Joshua. I’ve had Tora himself contact me a few times about questions. Those guys are really great. They will get you fixed up.

They advertise the HF1100 as a 40mph bike. I’m seeing more like 35-37 on full battery. You have to have good conditions to hit 40. Usually on the access road I’m running 30-35. It will slow down as the battery gets depleted. But that is great for me.

About 10 minutes ago, UPS arrived with my tire plugging tool. I just made a video of it. The link is in a post below ...
 
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I got the new Maxxis Minion 120Tpi EXO TP 26x4.8 mounted on the front of the 2018 Ripcurrent S. Sure like it. A video is posted below...
 
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I find the HF1100 is fully capable of 40 on a full battery but you really need to be holding down the throttle to ensure the baseline 25A + using the top gear and stomping hard to max out the torque sensor in race mode.

I'm busy with work on most days so I haven't been able to check anything but I'm starting to wonder if maybe the tolerance stack of the spacers was just off enough to be a problem, or if the frame just slightly not wide enough. I got the rack + fenders listed in their accessories page and the rack was just way too wide to fit. I ended up standing on the rack to bend it to fit. It seems to be aluminum though so it cracked near the top of the rack where the triangle rear supports meet with the rack.

I think once I fix the rack issue + this chain rub problem it'll be smooth sailing as far as I'm concerned. It's obvious to me that this is just a minor rev of the HF1000 as I still get some low speed stuttering that suggests the hall sensors sync with the controller isn't quite right and it corresponds to big spikes in the indicated speed on the display.
 
Well, stay in touch. We know they mass produce these in China, so some issues are expected. If you want, we can compare some measurements on the frame.

When I got my HF, my PAS wasn’t working correctly. Seemed to be cutting out / surging. It was the thickness of the washer on the torque sensor side. The torque sensor must be within 1 mm if the outside cog or it won’t work properly. Again tech support was a great quick help b
 
This happens whether I use throttle or PAS. Throttle from standstill to 5 mph can have the sensation of cogging/momentary power cut, mostly only if I really peg the throttle. Power delivery is not perfectly smooth in that regard. It's not the end of the world to me but it is a notable flaw.
 
I have the RCS and HF. I must admit, the RCS is a much more comfortable bike to ride. The torque sensor blends so well with the PAS. It could be that the HF, because of the added 1100w has a lot More torque and is not as smooth. But it will get you up to speed and across the road much faster. And up hills. The RCS needs two changes: 1 Remove the 20mph limit on throttle and 2 add a PAS of zero.
 
The HF1100 is already extremely smooth to me, if you have tried any of the Luna BBS02/BBSHD builds you will know what harsh torque delivery feels like.

We're still in the early days of the HF, if it survives more than a few thousand miles I'll be impressed.
 
tcombest said:
I’ve put about 200 miles on my new 1100. The slicks are very fast and light for road riding. And I have no problem with them. But I like big knarly knobby tires. I decided to upgrade to Maxxis Minion exo TR tires, set up tubeless. Two tubes and two Mr. Tuffys weigh over 3lbs. On my 2019 hyperfat 1100, I put a 4.8 on the front and a 4.0 on the rear. The double wall rims are great for going tubeless. The spokes are somewhat inset. You can trim excess off the rim strip to allow more tape contact. 2 3/4 gorilla black tape fits perfect in the rim. I taped over the rim strip. A 4.8 (actually 4.5) will just fit on the front. It will NOT fit on the back. You will lose 3 gears. The 4.0 (actually 4.1) fits great on back and you lose no gears. The beads on these TR minions seat up very easily going tubeless. Don’t try tubeless with the non-TR 4.8 minions. It is a nightmare. Bead diameter is way too wide. I am converting my Ripcurrent S tomorrow to the same setup. I’ll try and get a video up on YouTube. The RCS is easier because you can unplug and remove the rear wheel. The HF1100 has a heat shrink wrapped plug that you don’t want to cut/remove. There are actually 3 wires under that heat shrink and they are also heat shrinked. Flip your bike upside down. Set a cooler or bench next to the bike. Cut the 3 zip ties on the power cable to give you some cable room. You can remove the tire and set it on the bench to change the tire while the power cable is still intact. This tubeless conversion with these tires works very easy and is a nice setup. It’s easy to reattach the cable with zip ties.

Ok, I did a pretty crummy job of making a video of the tubeless process, but it does have some good info in it.

Click to expand...
Would like to see your video but it states it was removed?
 
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