Cross Current

@Itsmejson On the 10.4 make sure you check the fitment of the battery. I had issues with that and power was cutting out due to the connection I believe. The was the first production run of the cross current and I got a very early 10.4 battery. On a positive note the LBS has been great. I'm anticipating getting a fix in the next week and in the meantime LBS leant me the smaller battery. Which car and bike racks did you decide on?

What's the recommended way to check the firment?

I have a 2011 Accord and installed a curt receiver and 1UPUSA bike rack.

I'll post a photo later today of the setup

edit: here are a few photos of the setup with my brothers bike installed
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IMG_20160831_191811.jpg
 
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Basically when the battery is locked in try and jiggle it and see if it shakes or moves. Mine wasn't real loose at first, but after a few hard commute trips it developed a rattle and ultimately the e aspect of it want working, juiced knows about it, I haven't seen it with the smaller battery and it is supposed to be fixed, but I'd still check it out just to be on the safe side. The one plus rack looks cool I was thinking about the kuat nv2 hitch mount. But idk if I actually need it.
 
Does any one have a ballpark price they think a replacement battery will be in ~3 years when it's time to replace?
 
Does any one have a ballpark price they think a replacement battery will be in ~3 years when it's time to replace?

Hard to say since e-bike batteries have been getting cheaper and I would expect that trend to continue. Plus, the Cross Current battery appears to be an 'open' standard I've seen on probably ten other bikes. I wouldn't be surprised if you could buy a compatible battery from sources other than Juiced Bikes in the future.
 
Juiced bikes has quite a large set of options for batteries for the Cross Current and Torra's prices being so good on a whole bike, I would think that the battery prices would be reasonable. Why not go with something supported by the manufacturer? Knowing or rather guessing what a battery price would be 3 years out is a bit of a challenge; although prices in general have been coming down and performance improving.
 
Thanks for the responses after seeing that they now have a step through model (wonder what the weight difference is) I'm going to pull the trigger as a M would have been too tall for me. Excited to see more feedback from other owners.
 
Overall this is still a great bike, but I am kind of frustrated with my cross current lately.

Issue 1: The "fix" for my replacement 10.4 battery rattle on the frame was velcro, the previous battery had movement of cells withing the enclosure I think the cell enclosurers are a flaw in the design of the bike. Especially given the volatile nature of lithium ion batteries.

I bought this bike with the hope of eventually upgrading to the highest capacity battery, and if the 10.4 has significantly more movement that the 7.8 it would stand to reason that the additional weight of the 20 plus amp hour battery would be likely to have more play than either of the smaller counterparts.

Next issue is between the 2 cross currents in my householdwe are on our 4th rear flat. Two clearly caused by road debris. However the other 2 seem like they occurred at the valve stem or possibly from the spokes. It would be great if the bikes came with a better performing tire and rim tape, right out of the gate. I have taken it to the shop for the changes so far but would greatly appreciate an official or unofficial video on the rear tire changing process.

I get that the bike is at a good price point and tires may drive that up, but I feel like several bikes are on the horizon at the under 2k price point at this time.

*Wanted to make a quick edit to acknowledge that Luis @ Juiced reached out and I am confident that all these issues will be troubleshooted thoroughly.
 
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Hit up rocket Electrics here in Austin today about my CC order I placed beginning of Aug and they said they have them in and are just working through assembling them before they release them.

Update - just got a call back from Rocket and unfortunately they just told me that juiced shipped them a black large or red medium :(

They gave me the option to take the medium red and they would exchange out the bike to a black medium when they receive more from Juiced in December. Not really sure what would be the best option.

I'm 5'8 is the medium to large frame a big difference?
 
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Hit up rocket Electrics here in Austin today about my CC order I placed beginning of Aug and they said they have them in and are just working through assembling them before they release them.

Update - just got a call back from Rocket and unfortunately they just told me that juiced shipped them a black large or red medium :(

They gave me the option to take the medium red and they would exchange out the bike to a black medium when they receive more from Juiced in December. Not really sure what would be the best option.

I'm 5'8 is the medium to large frame a big difference?
Hit up rocket Electrics here in Austin today about my CC order I placed beginning of Aug and they said they have them in and are just working through assembling them before they release them.

Update - just got a call back from Rocket and unfortunately they just told me that juiced shipped them a black large or red medium :(

They gave me the option to take the medium red and they would exchange out the bike to a black medium when they receive more from Juiced in December. Not really sure what would be the best option.

I'm 5'8 is the medium to large frame a big difference?

Try both at the shop and go from there
 
I got my Cross Current back. 1 day turnaround on the repair. They replaced the controller and said it still didn't seem quite right so they replaced the torque sensor. All seems to be working well now.

I'm 5'9" and I'd recommend the medium frame. The Cross Current fits more like a mountain bike so it feels like a 19-20" hybrid to me.
 
Here I am getting groceries on the Cross Current. Bike is very stable with 40lbs. on the back. I have the MTX Trolly Tote I can slide on top of the rack with two panniers installed to carry even more stuff.

(Link Removed - No Longer Exists)

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Finally received my Cross Current today and had a few questions.

For those of you with a topeak rack I had my LBS install one and when looking from the back the rack isn't centered. Its more on the drive side is this normal or is there a way to adjust it center?

2nd question I'd like to install sks velo 55 fenders but the front fork doesn't have any holes to mount brackets? What do I need to do it?
 
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For those of you with a topeak rack I had my LBS install one and when looking from the back the rack isn't centered. Its more on the drive side is this normal or is there a way to adjust it center?

I looked at mine and it's slightly off center to the drive side. Doesn't affect the functionality one bit so I wouldn't worry about it. I don't have fenders on my bike so can't help there.
 
Finally received my Cross Current today and had a few questions.

For those of you with a topeak rack I had my LBS install one and when looking from the back the rack isn't centered. Its more on the drive side is this normal or is there a way to adjust it center?

2nd question I'd like to install sks velo 55 fenders but the front fork doesn't have any holes to mount brackets? What do I need to do it?

I don't have a Toppeak rack, but the drive side dropout does stick out more due to the torque sensor. Also the holes on the dropouts aren't aligned for perfect rack mounting so what you're seeing is normal. I use a different rack with some mods to get it centered.

The fork has these mounts & one through the arch which may be plugged. For the fork legs any strong piece of L-shaped material with two holes drilled in it.

Some tips.

Take advantage of your LBS tuneup especially with the wheels. Broke my 2nd spoke recently from spokes loosening, but this was after around 2k & 2.5k. Bought a Park tension meter so hopefully it'll be the end of that. My front wheel arrived badly dished which I fixed & has been fine since then.

Since you'll be riding in the wet, check those connectors. My CC would shut off & had sluggish assist. After a battery exchange & two controllers it ended up being a corroded connector from the display to the wire harness. I haven't done it yet, but I read dielectric grease on the connectors is good for this. Also maybe smear grease inside the steerer tube to protect from rust. Rust also developed on one of my pedal's spindle (the bushing area) making it now feel loose so taking that apart & packing some in the bushing & seal area would be good idea.

Wrap some duck tape or something protective around the chainstay where the disc is close to touching. The tightness of the rear triangle, the loose torque washers, & the spindle flats make removing & especially reattaching the rear wheel a pain & the disc will scratch/gouge the chainstay in the process.


CC_frontfender_mounting.jpg
 
Itsmejson, I have a write up in the juiced bikes page with one option for centering the mtx rack. I also recommend using p-clamps for your front fender. I had some 1-1/4" p-clamps I bought from a company called velo orange here: (Link Removed - No Longer Exists)

Youth, I did not realize those two plugs could be removed to mount a fender. It would have made life easier because I have several l brackets laying around.
 
Finally got my 10.4ah battery after a 4 month wait. Feels like a new bike. No more range anxiety. Did 30 miles tonight with a mix of level 2 and 3 assist and still had a few miles left in it at the end. Also ordered a pair of 28x2.0 Schwalbe Marathon Almotion tires from Bike24. Looks like the lowest rolling resistance touring tire you can buy yet they still have very good puncture resistance.

http://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/tour-reviews/schwalbe-marathon-almotion-2016
 
I don't have a Toppeak rack, but the drive side dropout does stick out more due to the torque sensor. Also the holes on the dropouts aren't aligned for perfect rack mounting so what you're seeing is normal. I use a different rack with some mods to get it centered.

The fork has these mounts & one through the arch which may be plugged. For the fork legs any strong piece of L-shaped material with two holes drilled in it.

View attachment 11147

I checked my fork and I don't have any of those points I'll take a photo and post later.

Quick question on the battery meter, do I go off of the battery meter on the handle bar or off the meter on the actual battery?

When I was riding today the battery meter on the handlebar would go from 4 and top to 2 then 3-4. Currently at 22 miles on my first charge on the 10.4 battery
 
The mount points are on the back of the fork. I have them on mine. I go by the battery meter on the bar when the battery is under a load. Once it gets down to 2 bars you're pretty close to empty. Even when the battery is almost totally empty it still shows 4/5 bars static battery voltage.
 
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