Cross Current

The Marathon Plus isn't bad in rolling resistance when you consider its insane level of puncture resistance. The regular Marathon is a good middle ground. I'm a fan of using the widest tires that will fit your frame and lowering the pressure to improve the ride. I'd get the 28x2.15's if I could do it all over again and drop the pressure another 5psi.

They're great tires, recently got them. Only have had one flat with the stock tires (damn goatheads!) on my CC in about 1,110 miles. Got the marathons to have nice reflective sidewalls, and the puncture protection peace of mind. I ride at level 2 very smoothly and stay around 18-21 mph or so with not much effort. I've had the stock Kendas at 30 PSI and these marathons at 30 PSI and the marathons feel better overall.
 
I only see Schwalbe selling rim tape. I think 15-17mm is what you want anyways. It just needs to be wide enough to cover the spoke hole area. That 25mm rim tape is meant for wider mountain bike rims. With those plastic rim strips if it's too wide it will curl up at the edges and expose a sharp edge.

It's just that seeing https://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_info/rim_tape casts doubt about my rim strip width selection. According to Schwalbe it should span from inside wall to wall. If I measure correctly that would be about 22mm for the CC rims.
 
Hi, I am wondering if I can ride a CC in sport mode for my entire commute of 9.3 miles? Specifically, would the motor handle that much power over that distance/time? Of course battery usage will go up, but what about the hub motor? Any insights are most appreciated.
 
Yes, assuming you aren't climbing a steep hill the whole way it will handle it just fine. I had the stock 7.8aH battery for 4 months and I could completely drain it in 10 miles on 'S' mode. I would recommend getting the 10.4aH battery (which I have now) and charging it to 80% to extend the life. Charging the 7.8aH battery twice a day to 100% means you'll rack up 400 charge cycles pretty fast and start to notice the battery fading. When I first got the Cross Current I was addicted to 'S' mode but the more I ride it I find mode 3 is nearly as fun while still giving you a bit of a workout.
 
Hi, I am wondering if I can ride a CC in sport mode for my entire commute of 9.3 miles? Specifically, would the motor handle that much power over that distance/time? Of course battery usage will go up, but what about the hub motor? Any insights are most appreciated.

I weigh 230 lbs and have the stock 7.8aH battery. Riding 15 miles in sport mode with plenty of hills and about 20 charge cycles, I'm just now experiencing sluggish motor at mile 14. As others have noted the battery life indicator on downtube still shows 2 leds even when battery is nearly dead.
 
Yes, assuming you aren't climbing a steep hill the whole way it will handle it just fine. I had the stock 7.8aH battery for 4 months and I could completely drain it in 10 miles on 'S' mode. I would recommend getting the 10.4aH battery (which I have now) and charging it to 80% to extend the life. Charging the 7.8aH battery twice a day to 100% means you'll rack up 400 charge cycles pretty fast and start to notice the battery fading. When I first got the Cross Current I was addicted to 'S' mode but the more I ride it I find mode 3 is nearly as fun while still giving you a bit of a workout.
Good to know, thanks Dunbar. I'm expecting as my strength increases, the dependence on the level of assist will diminish. Still, I'm hoping for a short commute so going fast where I can do so will certainly help. I'm forced to thread my way through downtown which is not only slow but bad for one's respitory health. It's yet another reason why ebikes are the wave of the future. Less exertion means less deep breathing of automobile exhaust.
 
I weigh 230 lbs and have the stock 7.8aH battery. Riding 15 miles in sport mode with plenty of hills and about 20 charge cycles, I'm just now experiencing sluggish motor at mile 14. As others have noted the battery life indicator on downtube still shows 2 leds even when battery is nearly dead.
Thanks JE. I'm kind of wondering what is the use of the indicator providing that data? I was leaning to the 7.8 battery because it's slimmer but after reading the posts here, I realize that the 10.4 Ah is a better choice, despite the extra cost.
 
No issues using Sport mode for 16 miles one way in relatively flat Chicago area. One to two bars left for this distance with a 10.4 so 60%-80% drain. You can work pretty hard in Sport mode trying stay above 26mph. I actually wish there was a little more power (500w?) to help maintain sport mode speeds when dealing with with headwinds.
 
I think the battery life indicators are notoriously inaccurate. I'm guessing the led readout is a bit different for every rider/commute. Buy yourself a decent strobe taillight and headlight and use even during daylight. I'm amazed at how much more attention I get from autos with strobe on.
 
Less exertion means less deep breathing of automobile exhaust.

As far as breathing exhaust emissions I've heard that you're still better off cycling on the road than driving in a car. In a car I guess the exhaust fumes can get trapped in the cabin.
 
No issues using Sport mode for 16 miles one way in relatively flat Chicago area. One to two bars left for this distance with a 10.4 so 60%-80% drain. You can work pretty hard in Sport mode trying stay above 26mph. I actually wish there was a little more power (500w?) to help maintain sport mode speeds when dealing with with headwinds.
Good to know, thanks youth. It makes me think I should shop for a class 3 pedelec with a larger motor, but I can't justify spending more at this point. I'm still a biking newbie...
 
As far as breathing exhaust emissions I've heard that you're still better off cycling on the road than driving in a car. In a car I guess the exhaust fumes can get trapped in the cabin.
I hope you're right Dunbar. There's research that also points the other way. Clearly one should avoid busy streets when cycling. Proximity to car exhaust makes a big difference to the rider. From what I understand the nanoparticles eventually clump together and become too large to lodge deeply in the lungs. This means less risk of the particles crossing the blood brain barrier. Researching riding has made me think about how much I sit in a car stuck in heavy traffic on a clogged street. I bought a hybrid not only for fuel savings but out of social responsibility. But how many do I see when I'm in a traffic jam? Not enough I'm afraid.
 
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I think the battery life indicators are notoriously inaccurate. I'm guessing the led readout is a bit different for every rider/commute. Buy yourself a decent strobe taillight and headlight and use even during daylight. I'm amazed at how much more attention I get from autos with strobe on.
Thanks for the advice JE, I plan on following it. Can you tell me, what driving behaviours let you know they see you? Other than not running over you, lol...
 
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Thanks for the advice JE, I plan on following it. Can you tell me, what driving behaviours let you know they see you? Other than not running over you, lol...
I notice drivers coming out of driveways or side streets seem to take notice of the headlight strobe and usually avoid pulling right out in front of me. The same for folks pulling out of parking spot. Before using the strobe I could almost guarantee they would ignore me and pull right out forcing an emergency stop. I also find that the drivers will notice the headlight strobe in their rear view/side view mirror and delay a right turn until I pass. I will sometimes make eye contact with driver in their side view mirror and give them the nod that it's ok to make the right in front of me or they will wave me on. The speed you carry on an e-bike may surprise autos that don't expect you to catch them at every light, stop sign, hill, roundabout, etc so you will have to ride a bit more cautiously and get their attention. I can't say how much the tail light strobe helps but I know they get my attention if I'm driving and a cyclist is using one.
 
The fork has these mounts & one through the arch which may be plugged. For the fork legs any strong piece of L-shaped material with two holes drilled in it.


View attachment 11147

I emailed juiced and apparently they either use suntour or a frank front fork, which doesn't have the front fender mount. I didn't known they used another fork brand. Disappointed about this
 
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Any recommendations for fenders on the CrossCurrent?
I tried the Bike Planet Cascadia XL (45mm), but they're narrower than the stock Kenda tires.
Has anyone found other fenders that will work with the CC fork (without mounting points) & Kenda tires?
 
I popped my first spoke on the rear wheel Sunday coming home from the e-bike expo with about 1k miles on the bike. My bike shop fixed it under warranty in a day and gave me a loaner so I can't complain about the service. I'm planning to give more priority to finding a wheel expert to even up the spoke tension and true the wheels. I'll probably order the replacement spokes on Amazon next time I order something over $35 to get free shipping.
 
I ordered a full set of spokes because it was cheaper then getting them direct & locally. Only the place I ordered from shipped them with 14mm nipples instead of the 12mm that are on the CC. They still work though & I'll be looking to get rid of a few since I don't need all 36. Have only used 5 so far on the rear. I've also been asking through email & the online form what tension specs are for the rims, but haven't gotten a response through two inquiries. Maybe you can ask your bike shop what they tighten it to.

One interesting thing I found with the replacement spokes both from a local shop & from the set I ordered online it that they seem to have a different thread then the CC's 12g spokes. The nipples aren't interchangeable & the threads don't match up when I hold them up against each other.

I wish they would've gone with more standard spoke sizes & name brand rims. I took my front tire off for the first time since getting the bike & the rim has several drill spots & miss drilled holes. Something like this would have been scrapped from a reputable rim company. The Schwalbe rim tape has been working well on the rear. You can see how much the front stock one deformed in the pic. Despite that the stock inner tube held up fine there.

CC_front_rim_baddrilling.jpg
 
You should send an e-mail to Juiced Bikes support. I'm guessing they'll send you a new front wheel. The spoke nipples are bigger than normal. I couldn't find a spoke wrench locally that would fit them.
 
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