Cross Current

I don't have a Toppeak rack, but the drive side dropout does stick out more due to the torque sensor. Also the holes on the dropouts aren't aligned for perfect rack mounting so what you're seeing is normal. I use a different rack with some mods to get it centered.

The fork has these mounts & one through the arch which may be plugged. For the fork legs any strong piece of L-shaped material with two holes drilled in it.

Some tips.

Take advantage of your LBS tuneup especially with the wheels. Broke my 2nd spoke recently from spokes loosening, but this was after around 2k & 2.5k. Bought a Park tension meter so hopefully it'll be the end of that. My front wheel arrived badly dished which I fixed & has been fine since then.

Since you'll be riding in the wet, check those connectors. My CC would shut off & had sluggish assist. After a battery exchange & two controllers it ended up being a corroded connector from the display to the wire harness. I haven't done it yet, but I read dielectric grease on the connectors is good for this. Also maybe smear grease inside the steerer tube to protect from rust. Rust also developed on one of my pedal's spindle (the bushing area) making it now feel loose so taking that apart & packing some in the bushing & seal area would be good idea.

Wrap some duck tape or something protective around the chainstay where the disc is close to touching. The tightness of the rear triangle, the loose torque washers, & the spindle flats make removing & especially reattaching the rear wheel a pain & the disc will scratch/gouge the chainstay in the process.


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I'm new to the site and just got my CC last week and enjoying upgrading it. Two questions for you. Do you know what size bolt will go into the front Suntour to mount the fender supports and can you share your mod for centering the mtx rack?
 
I'm new to the site and just got my CC last week and enjoying upgrading it. Two questions for you. Do you know what size bolt will go into the front Suntour to mount the fender supports and can you share your mod for centering the mtx rack?

I believe they're M5 threads. I don't have the MTX rack but a cheapo house brand rack from Performance Bike. Not sure the way I mounted mine would apply to that rack since mine has adjustable height legs. I cut the down the spacers to center with the tire. Bent one leg forward to correct the tilt & line it up front to back. And one one leg sitting higher then the other to level side to side.
 
I believe they're M5 threads. I don't have the MTX rack but a cheapo house brand rack from Performance Bike. Not sure the way I mounted mine would apply to that rack since mine has adjustable height legs. I cut the down the spacers to center with the tire. Bent one leg forward to correct the tilt & line it up front to back. And one one leg sitting higher then the other to level side to side.
Thanks for the tips.
 
I got my Blackburn Central 700x60 fenders installed. It's been raining like crazy in Southern California this winter. The fenders were quite a pain to get on the bike requiring three trips to the hardware store and the purchase of a cheap rotary tool on Amazon to trim down the fender stays. I removed the mudguards because they require you to mount the fenders really far from the tire to prevent rub. Took them out in the damp conditions last night and they work very well. My 17.4aH battery should be arriving tomorrow so I can start doing some range testing.

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40 miles on the bike and loving it. My bike commute to work avg 17 mins vs 12 mins driving.

One thing that came up today on the way in to work is I hit a bump and the power shutoff. I pulled over turned the bike back on and it was fine. On the last stop to work the power shut off again.

Anyone know what I should check on the bike or have an idea of what might have happened?

Came here to see if anyone else had experienced this exact issue. In my experience it seems to fix itself within a couple of seconds and doesn't always seem to happen when riding over a bump. Apart from this issue, I'm really loving this bike so far!
 
I did my first range test with the 840Wh battery and got 36.4 miles on 'S' mode before the bike starting chugging. I did notice the bike feels slower towards the end of the ride with the bigger battery. The battery voltage was down to 43.7V which is probably why it was more noticeable (about 3-4V lower than my 500Wh battery.) The flip side of this is that the bike seems to accelerate faster on a full charge with the bigger battery.
 
Came here to see if anyone else had experienced this exact issue. In my experience it seems to fix itself within a couple of seconds and doesn't always seem to happen when riding over a bump. Apart from this issue, I'm really loving this bike so far!

Try e-mailing Juiced Bikes support. They can show you how to add velcro inside the battery enclosure to tighten up the fit.
 
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I got 46 miles on assist level 3 with the 17.4aH battery. If I wasn't range testing I would bump the power up to 'S' once I got to 25% battery or so. You start to notice the lower voltage more on these bigger batteries.
 
I got 46 miles on assist level 3 with the 17.4aH battery. If I wasn't range testing I would bump the power up to 'S' once I got to 25% battery or so. You start to notice the lower voltage more on these bigger batteries.
Did you have to do the velcro fix with the lighter battery, if so do you have the velcro in with the larger battery? My feeling is that the added weight of the 17.4aH battery may exacerbate the battery fitment issues.
 
Did you have to do the velcro fix with the lighter battery, if so do you have the velcro in with the larger battery? My feeling is that the added weight of the 17.4aH battery may exacerbate the battery fitment issues.

I do have velcro installed for the 17.4aH battery which helped but didn't fix the issue entirely. They are sending me a new battery to try out. It's not the weight that is the problem but the fit tolerances of the battery mount which varies slightly between production runs. My bike is one of the earlier production bikes. I don't notice any noise from the battery rattling around but the power cuts out over bigger bumps. I didn't have velcro on either the 374Wh or 500Wh batteries since I never had any issues with them.
 
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I got my CrossCurrent over the summer with the 7.8aH battery. It's my first electric bike, and I had decided to go with it after test riding several other brands, including doing my commute (which is about 13 miles long in one direction). I weigh around 250 lbs, and have a pannier with a 6 lbs laptop. The bike is able to make it ok alternating between sport and level 3. I have ordered the 17.4aH battery and hopefully it will arrive soon so I can go the commute entirely in sport mode and ditch riding in Los Angeles traffic for 50 minutes in the morning and evening each day.

What kind of information would be useful to track and share as I test out the new battery? I expect to put on around a hundred miles a week, give or take and will be happy to help share real world numbers with everyone.

I'm thinking about getting a Cycle Analyst, which I assume will help for tracking data, and maybe give me an easy way to hardwire lights in. Anyone else hardwired lights in using a Cycle Analyst?
 
I have ordered the 17.4aH battery and hopefully it will arrive soon so I can go the commute entirely in sport mode and ditch riding in Los Angeles traffic for 50 minutes in the morning and evening each day.

Yeah, the 17.4aH battery really transforms the bike IMO. I can go for 90-120 minute rides on the bike in 'S' mode. I think the 10.4aH battery is adequate for a lot of people when charged to 100% but I accumulate charge cycles too fast to do that. With the 17.4aH battery you could probably do the round trip on 'S' mode charged to 80%.

Do you ride along the coast in LA? If so, I think I may have seen you a couple of times on a black Cross Current commuting home with a backpack this past summer.
 
I'm riding along the LA River Bike path when I ride. I've defaulted into my car since it's been raining and want to get back to the bike as soon as I get the new battery. I am also curious about the 21 aH one coming...

And my CrossCurrent is red
 
Yeah, I may swap for the 21aH battery when it is available. Although my experience so far is that the 17.4aH battery at 35-40 miles in 'S' mode is probably more than adequate for my needs. It's just that I like charging to 80% for longevity so in a perfect world the 1000Wh battery would cover pretty much any trip I would make.
 
I do have velcro installed for the 17.4aH battery which helped but didn't fix the issue entirely. They are sending me a new battery to try out. It's not the weight that is the problem but the fit tolerances of the battery mount which varies slightly between production runs. My bike is one of the earlier production bikes. I don't notice any noise from the battery rattling around but the power cuts out over bigger bumps. I didn't have velcro on either the 374Wh or 500Wh batteries since I never had any issues with them.
Mine is one of the earlier runs as well (first production run) I got a 10.4 which had both a rattle with the enclosure, like rattling cells and it wasn't a snug fit on the bike, got my replacement 10.4 and it was fine within the enclosure but still needed the velcro "fix". Please give an update when you receive the new battery, I am super curious about what happens with that.
 
Court shot a video with the Step-Thru CrossCurrent. This was actually the first time I got a chance to speak to him at length. What amazed me is not just how knowledgeable he is about the bikes, but how he is able to present this information in an absorbable way to the audience. He is thinking several steps in the future as far as the shots and content all in real time and can nail all the specs like a announcer of a baseball game. Have a look.
 
I received my battery over the weekend and after removing the water basket, rode it into the office this morning on Sport mode the whole way. The 17.4 aH battery fits well, I can wiggle it myself, but I didn't have any problem riding it over bumps and did not notice any rattling at all so I'd say it's great.

Tora, how would I go about getting one of the Cycle Analyst for Juiced cables? And if I'm going to buy a Cycle Analyst, which should I get, the v2 or v3? From what i've read before, it looks like the v2?
 
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