Alternative Display and Controller for NCM (DAS-KIT)

This is all I want it too do, how do I set it up here in aus


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Pcebiker I think you need to take Inlto account your battery? If it's the stock dehawk, max discharge current 18a I think, I don't know if it makes a difference or not but definitely sus it out before you go any higher. Your controller will draw more current if you tell it too, check and see if the cells are overheating.

Im looking forward too your results
 
This is all I want it too do, how do I set it up here in aus

This is all you need,..
They may not ship it to Australia or Europe?

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The C7 display seems to be sold out everywhere.
Leoncycle may be sold out too, but I'm sure their website will take your money?




 
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I'm 98% sure that your motor is a 500 Watt motor with a 750 Watt peak.

18 amps × 48 volts is 864 Watts.
My low voltage cutoff on my Reention Dorado battery is apparently 42 volts.

18 amps × 42 volts is 756 Watts.

My fully charged battery is 54.6 volts

18 amps × 54.6 volts is 983 Watts.

A 25 amp controller may overpower/overheat your motor and burn up your motor cable,
but you can reduce the maximum power of the KT controller.

So you can select the maximum power to be,..
12.5 amps, 16.7 amps, 18.8 amps, 20.0 amps, 20.8 amps, 21.8 amps, 22.7 amps, or full power of 25 amps.
On the bold, this is misinformation and completely untrue.

It's common practice to install controllers with more capacity than required (sometimes called rating "overhead"), and in FACT, this practice assures that the controller will not be overwhelmed easily when pushed hard or run hot (as in installed in an enclosed area for instance).

Each install is just a little different (differences in motors, wiring, and batteries for instance), but my hunch is at full throttle your motor w/KT mod will pull close to 1000w - SAFELY!! When running this kind of wattage, things WILL be heating up quickly, so you need to be aware if you spend much time at this level, you DO risk damage due to overheating. For a sprint though, like crossing a road for instance, 1000w won't hurt a thing! A climb up a short hill or catching up with a riding partner that just lasts 30 seconds might be other examples of a quick burst/sprint. Go for it, but keep in mind it's going to need to cool for a few minutes before doing that again.

My friend @PCeBiker needs to look into just how bike manf's can rate motors at 500/750w. I'll supply one hint. They supply power to a motor rated at 500w with amperage ABOVE that required for 500w, and it's generally done with the same warning I'm talking about above. A VERY common practice among e-bike manf's!! The extra power is available on a reliable basis, but you need to be using your head when pushing the motor hard - like you might do when climbing a LONG hill.
 
After doing a little more research I think @Daffyh was right, I got the wrong bike to do this with

My ct6-fb controller max 18a compared to US 22a
My dehawk battery max current output 15a idk what the US one is but I would be higher
Plus the display differences
And I dont even know if the motors are the same
These differences would would make a difference wouldn't they?
Or if I go the US controller I'll get 45kph on PAS with the AUS performance? @PCeBiker

The offroad display can be set too 32kph throttle and 45kph PAS but max speed is 32kph for both

I can do 32kph on the throttle which is perfect but I also want 45kph on PAS but I'm now thinking it will be to expensive to achieve.

Im already $240 deep with the offroad display, i would like too keep it all genuine parts but the cost might outweigh the rewards
 
After doing a little more research I think @Daffyh was right, I got the wrong bike to do this with

My ct6-fb controller max 18a compared to US 22a
My dehawk battery max current output 15a idk what the US one is but I would be higher
Plus the display differences
And I dont even know if the motors are the same
These differences would would make a difference wouldn't they?
Or if I go the US controller I'll get 45kph on PAS with the AUS performance? @PCeBiker

The offroad display can be set too 32kph throttle and 45kph PAS but max speed is 32kph for both

I can do 32kph on the throttle which is perfect but I also want 45kph on PAS but I'm now thinking it will be to expensive to achieve.

Im already $240 deep with the offroad display, i would like too keep it all genuine parts but the cost might outweigh the rewards
I guess everyone has different needs/wants, but I'm not sure I understand the benefit of 45Kph on PAS. At that speed, any pedaling you are doing would likely be "ghost pedaling" as the cadence required with the stock gearing is quite high. I can tell you that from experience. I have a Milano with the Das-kit system. Being in Canada, my display lets me set those parameters to 32Kph and 45Kph respectively. When set this way, in PAS6, I got to about 42Kph on flat ground. I think at that speed I was reaching the limit of either the controller (mine is 18 amps) or the RPM of the motor (or maybe it's because I should lose some weight!). I noted that when the Max PAS is set to 45kph, all the other PAS levels are raised proportionly. I didn't like that as I often ride in PAS1 or PAS2 for exercise and the increments were less granular. Currently, I have Max PAS set to 32kph and Power level to ECO. All in all, it works well for me.
Regarding the ghost pedaling, you coud put a larger chainring on the front to raise the gearing and make all the gears higher.
 
@Fred The 45kph PAS for me would only apply for my commute too work.

@PCeBiker with the offroad display on your t1000 what is the max PAS speed and Max throttle speed? Is it restricted to 32kph?
And what is you Max speeds with your stock Canadian controller?
 
Motors dont really care how much amps they are fed as long as its rated for it eg.bike hubs)but the motor must support the higher rpm required from it to go faster and of course BMS output has to cope. Many forget that the forces required to go above 20/25 kph increase exponentially so just because you have a 1500w vs 500 w rated one you wont go 3x faster.
 
@PCeBiker with the offroad display on your t1000 what is the max PAS speed and Max throttle speed? Is it restricted to 32kph?
And what is you Max speeds with your stock Canadian controller?
It's all maxed at 32 kph.
It doesn't matter what you do with any of the settings, the maximum speed is 32 kph changing wheel size doesn't work either, but the off-road display and my original display did it differently.

The off-road display did allow me to chose PAS mode 6 at 45 kph, but It Was A LIE !!



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If you could get your hands on an American display, it will not cut the power to the motor until you have reached 42-48 kph.

Your BMS or Controller may cut out on you before you get to top speed.
(Which is a good thing.
You don't want to cook anything or burst into 🔥 's 😂)
 
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I dont know why they would state 45kph on the offroad display then, what is the go with that aye

My theory is if the US model can do 45kph then the rest can, it might be slower getting up too speed but same hopefully

How do I get my hands on a US display? Anyone got one? Anyone knows a US shop who will send me one? Etc

I contacted et-cycle in the US and they said they don't ship overseas
 
My friend @PCeBiker needs to look into just how bike manf's can rate motors at 500/750w. I'll supply one hint. They supply power to a motor rated at 500w with amperage ABOVE that required for 500w, and it's generally done with the same warning I'm talking about above. A VERY common practice among e-bike manf's!! The extra power is available on a reliable basis, but you need to be using your head when pushing the motor hard - like you might do when climbing a LONG hill.

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I can select the maximum power to be,..
12.5 amps,
16.7 amps,
18.8 amps,
20.0 amps,
20.8 amps,
21.8 amps,
22.7 amps,
or full power of 25 amps.


I'm almost positive that all T1000's, T720's, F1000's and F720's have a 750W motor with a 1000W peak.

The F720's and F1000's may have a different gear ratio to compensate for its smaller wheel size?

And all the motors are rebranded MXUS motors.

I am not at all hesitant to set my max power to 22 amps, but like you said, the motor can't handle 22 amps continuously which my KT conversion will allow me to do.

So I'm going to set my power to half and see what it's like and if I've got enough poop to accelerate quickly if I want, as well nice and gentle which is the only reason that I'm going to a KT controller and display.

I'm removing my Das-Kit Controller and Display as well as my cadence sensor/PAS sensor because it is connected directly to the controller with a 3 inch wire, and I don't want any sensors on my bike at all.
I'll delete my speedometer too or just let it read 72 kph for kicks. 😂

I intend to sell everything including the headlight, throttle, PAS sensor and all connectors as a plug and play off-road kit for someone in Australia, New Zealand, or Europe.

I'll bet that a ct6-fb would make my bike go faster because it would think that I have a 20 inch wheel, but I'm done with Das-Kit and I'm not getting the KT controller and display to go faster.
I'm getting it to go slower with more control.
And no PAS sensor. I don't want my bike monitoring me. I want to monitor my bike instead.
 
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I can select the maximum power to be,..
12.5 amps,
16.7 amps,
18.8 amps,
20.0 amps,
20.8 amps,
21.8 amps,
22.7 amps,
or full power of 25 amps.


I'm almost positive that all T1000's, T720's, F1000's and F720's have a 750W motor with a 1000W peak.

The F720's and F1000's may have a different gear ratio to compensate for its smaller wheel size?

And all the motors are rebranded MXUS motors.

I am not at all hesitant to set my max power to 22 amps, but like you said, the motor can't handle 22 amps continuously which my KT conversion will allow me to do.

So I'm going to set my power to half and see what it's like and if I've got enough poop to accelerate quickly if I want, as well nice and gentle which is the only reason that I'm going to a KT controller and display.

I'm removing my Das-Kit Controller and Display as well as my cadence sensor/PAS sensor because it is connected directly to the controller with a 3 inch wire, and I don't want any sensors on my bike at all.
I'll delete my speedometer too or just let it read 72 kph for kicks. 😂

I intend to sell everything including the headlight, throttle, PAS sensor and all connectors as a plug and play off-road kit for someone in Australia, New Zealand, or Europe.

I'll bet that a ct6-fb would make my bike go faster because it would think that I have a 20 inch wheel, but I'm done with Das-Kit and I'm not getting the KT controller and display to go faster.
I'm getting it to go slower with more control.
And no PAS sensor. I don't want my bike monitoring me. I want to monitor my bike instead.
Let us know how it goes I’m keen as mustard too see your results. Projects like this can benefit all of us :)
 
I will do that.
My controller and 1-5 cable should be here tomorrow.

I still have to wait for my display though, and my bike tools to get my left crank arm off to remove my cadence sensor.

I'm willing to bet that my bike will go 42 kph like others with Das-Kit motors.
It won't matter how much more power I throw at it.
 
I will do that.
My controller and 1-5 cable should be here tomorrow.

I still have to wait for my display though, and my bike tools to get my left crank arm off to remove my cadence sensor.
Awesome the F1000 controller cover does not look easy to remove. One of my brake sensors played up and stops the whole bike so i just disconnected it. Got a replacement. under warranty but ended up fitting a Shimano unit instead which is a simple bolt on replacement.
 
Awesome the F1000 controller cover does not look easy to remove. One of my brake sensors played up and stops the whole bike so i just disconnected it. Got a replacement. under warranty but ended up fitting a Shimano unit instead which is a simple bolt on replacement.

Ya know,.. if you can get your hands on an American C7 Display, you should be able to wing your bike up to 42 clicks,...
Just replace that stupid quick throttle with a thumb throttle👍🏻

I bought one.
Seven bucks,...

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Most throttles come with the wrong end 3 pin connector on it but there's connectors to plug them in.

Male to male, female to female, or y-connectors..
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PCeBiker, once your kit is up and running, you'll have some experience to back what you THINK is right at the moment.

Count me as #2 waiting to see your thoughts with ACTUAL results in hand.....
 
@PCeBiker Any chance you would access to a US C7 display and test the waters for me?

An older H7 display will work for you too.
That's what Fred has.
His bike will go 42.

Das-Kit in Canada 🇨🇦 just recently reduced the speed to 32.
The older Das-Kit displays would take you to 42-48 kph if you pedaled.
 
PCeBiker, once your kit is up and running, you'll have some experience to back what you THINK is right at the moment.

Count me as #2 waiting to see your thoughts with ACTUAL results in hand.....

Well, I'm not tearing into my motor to count the magnets and teeth on the gears to figure out the gear ratios, so I'll have to figure out how to get GPS on my phone to check the speed.

I'm going to enter whatever I need to, to get my speedometer to read 72 clicks. Lol

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An older H7 display will work for you too.
That's what Fred has.
His bike will go 42.

Das-Kit in Canada 🇨🇦 just recently reduced the speed to 32.
The older Das-Kit displays would take you to 42-48 kph if you pedaled.
Minor correction ...mine is the L7 Display...the small one.
das-kit-display-l7bt-infinite-elevate.jpg
 
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