Controller and display swap

GaSo

New Member
Region
Europe
Hi. I have a G-force T42 bike. It drives quite well, but without the possibility of customizing it in any way. There are literally no settings on the display, just miles/km and a speed limit that doesn't work.
I want to have more control over it and I want to change what I want. There is some yolin yl80c display model on the bike.
I tried to replace the display with new one with more functions like volt meter, but I bought a P860c display and it has a different connector, which I didn't notice when I ordered it. It has a 5 pin HIGO female and the old display has a 5 pin julet male.
I received a new controller from the bike manufacturer when making a claim, but nothing changes with the new controller. Still no settings, but I got push mode when holding - and the second same controller.
So I want to ask if you can recommend a new controller that will work with this new display (P860c) or a complete kit with a new controller and display.

These are the connectors I have on the controller now:
1. Hub motor is 750W 9 pin
2. Rear light with brake light 4 pin male
3. Passport sensor 3pin female
4. 1T5 cable 9 pin male

It will be nice if this new controller has all these connectors and is more customizable
On the 1T5 cable I have:
1st throttle with horn 5 pin male
2. brake sensors 2 pin female
3. display 5 pin female
4. light 3 pin female

I know that when I want to use the new display I will need to change the 1t5 cable as well, but I don't know if there is something like this old one with the same connectors but with a different display connector.

 

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Hi. I have a G-force T42 bike. It drives quite well, but without the possibility of customizing it in any way. There are literally no settings on the display, just miles/km and a speed limit that doesn't work.
I want to have more control over it and I want to change what I want. There is some yolin yl80c display model on the bike.
I tried to replace the display with new one with more functions like volt meter, but I bought a P860c display and it has a different connector, which I didn't notice when I ordered it. It has a 5 pin HIGO female and the old display has a 5 pin julet male.
I received a new controller from the bike manufacturer when making a claim, but nothing changes with the new controller. Still no settings, but I got push mode when holding - and the second same controller.
So I want to ask if you can recommend a new controller that will work with this new display (P860c) or a complete kit with a new controller and display.

These are the connectors I have on the controller now:
1. Hub motor is 750W 9 pin
2. Rear light with brake light 4 pin male
3. Passport sensor 3pin female
4. 1T5 cable 9 pin male

It will be nice if this new controller has all these connectors and is more customizable
On the 1T5 cable I have:
1st throttle with horn 5 pin male
2. brake sensors 2 pin female
3. display 5 pin female
4. light 3 pin female

I know that when I want to use the new display I will need to change the 1t5 cable as well, but I don't know if there is something like this old one with the same connectors but with a different display connector.

Your Controller looks like a KT Brand controller, which will work with either of these displays, each of which will give you control over a
wide variety of parameters. But you need to verify that it is a KT Controller.
Display 1: KT-LCD3
Display 2: KT-LCD8H

I installed the LCD8H on my Aventon Level along with this KT Controller.
KT22A Controller

Unfortunately, your new display will not work with your existing controller.
 
LINKY
s-l225.webp

Or
s-l225.webp


But its still a gamble if your new headset is configured to talk to your controller. perhaps the qr code can shed some light on what is ment by the Display meter value on the label?

KT controllers as mentioned above are popular not only because they do not require pairing or programming with a display/headset so will work with any compatible headset/display out of the box, but also allow more in depth configuration.

your 5 wire throttle will probably need replacing with a more standard 3 wire model unless you can trace back and eliminate 2 redundant connections.

22a peak power for a 750w motor seems rather under powered? off the top of my head thats a 500w sized controller?? I would perhaps consider a 30a model if you could use a little more oomph from your motor, and IF YOUR BATTERY CAN COPE WITH THE DRAW?..
 
Your Controller looks like a KT Brand controller, which will work with either of these displays, each of which will give you control over a
wide variety of parameters. But you need to verify that it is a KT Controller.
Display 1: KT-LCD3
Display 2: KT-LCD8H

I installed the LCD8H on my Aventon Level along with this KT Controller.
KT22A Controller

Unfortunately, your new display will not work with your existing controller.
I know this new display would not work on my controller.
I was trying to wire new display with diagram but it doesnt turn on so I think it will not work and it uses different communication protocol as I figured out.

Do you think when I buy one of this KT displays it will work and have more settings like my old one? I do not know how to verify if my controller is kt or not. I asked manufacturer before and it respond only with It is a Higgs, 9-tube, square wave, 48V controller.
Can settings be locked on display or in controller?
 
LINKY
s-l225.webp

Or
s-l225.webp


But its still a gamble if your new headset is configured to talk to your controller. perhaps the qr code can shed some light on what is ment by the Display meter value on the label?

KT controllers as mentioned above are popular not only because they do not require pairing or programming with a display/headset so will work with any compatible headset/display out of the box, but also allow more in depth configuration.

your 5 wire throttle will probably need replacing with a more standard 3 wire model unless you can trace back and eliminate 2 redundant connections.

22a peak power for a 750w motor seems rather under powered? off the top of my head thats a 500w sized controller?? I would perhaps consider a 30a model if you could use a little more oomph from your motor, and IF YOUR BATTERY CAN COPE WITH THE DRAW?..
I want to change throttle I do not like thumb throttle but all have 3pin so I need to figure out what to do with.
Do not want to change 1T5 cable and change everything else because of different connectors. But if I need to I change it.

QR code on controller is only this info: EB09/X025-AXC007/48V/39V/22A//20221021160

Of course more power would be nice. Right now it is 22ax48v so little over 1kw at peak.
Has 750w bike before (engwe engine pro) but it wasnt near this powerful.

Would like maybe 25A controller.
Every kt 30A controller i find has different motor connector (3 pin).
Do not know how much can motor take or how much can be drawn from bettery. It is 48v 16a battery
 
I missed the 'with horn' aspect of the 5 pin throttle description.. even so it makes the 5 in 1 cable you have non standard in at least one way, so .. I would at least source a 'spare' standard 5 to 1 from a supplier with a no quible returns policy. (5t1 for a controller with light support, 4T1 if no light support) no brake light support with KT controllers afaik?
With respect to what your battery can handle regarding draw? AFAIK its a feature of the batteries BMS, Maximum Continuous Draw in Amps. And should be documented, you do not want to exceed this, perhaps its why the bike was paired with a 22a controller?

KT controllers work with KT headsets with names like "ktlcd1, ktlcd2, .......... there are cheaper simpler ktledX headsets too but these dont offer the same configuration features, As far as whats held where.. a lot of it is held in the headset/display and transferred on system start-up
just google for "kt lcdX manual pdf" where X is the number of the display you select fwiw i went for an lcd10h
so i googled for kt lcd10h manual pdf .... there are 2 versions the 2 page intro getting started version and the 20+ page proper manual.. go for the latter for an insight to the depth of the configuration options..

fwiw i dont think your controller looks like a KT controller, true its in the same shape box that most controllers use but the lable and id number both lack any KT id...
 
It will be nice if new controller have brake light support or it will be possible to make it somehow work. Battery BMS is 30A as I figured out.
I was thinking about LCD8HU.
I do not think my controller is KT either. I cannot find it anywhere on net, no info about it, nothing. I can probably buy new LCD and try it with this controller if it works or not and then buy new controller.
But I need to figure out how to connect brake lights when KT controller not supporting it.
If I connect my 5T1 cable to new KT contr. will it work? or do I need new cable as well?

Edit: Squarewave or Sinewave?
 
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KT lcd8h manual

Sinewave is more sophisticated and should? provide a smoother ride, square wave may be slightly rougher noisier? and a little cheaper since its less complex. Is what ive read, I have had limited experience of 2 x controller upgrades both sinewave.. So with no experience with square wave controllers i can only repeat what i have read.

I double checked my light enabled KT controller and its a 2 wire connection for the rear light. you may find one supporting brake lights? but it will need to be explicitly stated as a feature. You might find it ion more powerful controllers aimed at e-motorbikes but since cycles dont usually come equipped with brake lights ebikes dont as a rule either..
I suspect a diy solution may be as straightforward as piggybacking a 5v relay to the brake sensor input? but a relay may draw too many ma?? needs looking into. an alternative could be the deceleration sensing 'smart' brake lights. a search for 'ebike brake light solutions' could be worthwhile ;)

I would buy a new 5 in 1 cable, the throttle/horn connection is Not standard, other things may also not be standard? and if not standard it could damage the controller the headset or both feeding battery voltage over a 5v data line for example. So how lucky do you feel?? Buy all you can from the same seller and email in advance of paying to ensure it will all work together out of the box if you have any concerns..
 
Do you think THIS will work for lights with KT controller? It looks like it is connected between 5T1 cable and controller.
 

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ebay link this product appears to piggy back off the brake sensors to operate a brake light..
s-l1600.jpg

Do you think THIS will work for lights with KT controller? It looks like it is connected between 5T1 cable and controller.

I dont know for sure, i know the light circuit cant cope with to much draw, what that limit is I dont know its Discussed here. which seems to indicate 70ma-100ma?? which he 250ma draw of the 9w headlamp main beam alone would fry??

Conversely, my fixer upper ebike has a 4xled headlamp fitted that looks identical to the one in the ad I linked above, and when i queried this myself on another forum i was informed that lights supplied with bikes are fine to run off controller lighting circuits, its 3rd party lights that we should be wary of.. tho my lamp is on/off no hi and lo beam options, but that could be a simple voltage/current suppression switch in the kit??

So I dont know.. Not enough clear info in the ad and not a clear picture of the controller light circuit limits. To give a definitive thumbs up the total possible draw All lights + horn
should be less than the switching limit of the lighting circuit. last thing yuo want is to loose light and horn power when blasting the horn and slamming on the brakes, thats kinda when you need it..

To fix this dilemma, folk seem to take the power for lights directly from the battery.
 
Ok, thanks, I'll try to fix the lights problem somehow.
Just for interest. What controller do I need if I want to use the display I bought P860c?
 
After a quick google I understand your desire not to waste the investment into the display.
I would ask the seller of the P860c Display for a list of compatible controllers that meet your requirements 36/48v 22a julet connections, ?lights, etc...
Most genuine sellers are keen to engage with customers, after all its more business.. but if your original seller isnt try other sellers offering the the same display and a range of controllers too.

Google tells me that as well as being a popular display paired with the bafang mid motors, its also used by the tsdz mid motors with open source firmware, this would indicate that its just the communication protocol thats important to match and no special programming is required to pair the controller with the display? Though im only a couple of upgrades further down this rd than yourself so im running with about a 50% confidence level on the above guess.
 
ebay link this product appears to piggy back off the brake sensors to operate a brake light..
s-l1600.jpg



I dont know for sure, i know the light circuit cant cope with to much draw, what that limit is I dont know its Discussed here. which seems to indicate 70ma-100ma?? which he 250ma draw of the 9w headlamp main beam alone would fry??

Conversely, my fixer upper ebike has a 4xled headlamp fitted that looks identical to the one in the ad I linked above, and when i queried this myself on another forum i was informed that lights supplied with bikes are fine to run off controller lighting circuits, its 3rd party lights that we should be wary of.. tho my lamp is on/off no hi and lo beam options, but that could be a simple voltage/current suppression switch in the kit??

So I dont know.. Not enough clear info in the ad and not a clear picture of the controller light circuit limits. To give a definitive thumbs up the total possible draw All lights + horn
should be less than the switching limit of the lighting circuit. last thing yuo want is to loose light and horn power when blasting the horn and slamming on the brakes, thats kinda when you need it..

To fix this dilemma, folk seem to take the power for lights directly from the battery.
That kit will work with KT controllers. I have a 25a controller and LCD8H display. Really, that kit should work with any controller that has JST connectors. You just need to feed the kit power and connect the brakes. The brake connectors were backwards, so I depinned the JST connector and the brake worked (that polarity bit was mentioned in the description). I took the pack voltage from the 48v and ground going from the controller to the display. You don’t want to have anything, except maybe a shunt, wired between the battery and your controller. If something goes bad, you should rather sacrifice the controller than your battery. :)
 
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