Alaskan
Well-Known Member
Jay, Still awaiting the needed parts. Once they are installed and Nancy has had a chance to ride and form some impressions, I will report back.
Alaskan
Well-Known Member
I can report, based on my riding this bike when it came new back in mid 2018 with the Fox Performance upgrade and the 80mm travel on the fork. I put about 2,000 miles on the 2018 before passing it along to Nancy, selling her Nevo Nuvinci and buying a 2018 for my use. I did upgrade Nancy's 2018 Homage Rohloff HS to the E-14 electronic shifting. The ride quality and the ability to tune via air pressure and rebound control is definitely superior in the Fox fork and shock, particularly the shock as the xFusion has a tiny air capacity and is difficult to get dialed in to the correct pressure, at least by comparison.. The base stock suspension on the 2018 with the Suntour Aion fork and Xfusion shock was good not great. That's why I swapped it out when we were both riding Homages. I ride 4-6 days per week, weather permitting. Nancy rides with me every week or two.
It will be interesting to see how the Fox fork works on the 2018 bike as it has non-boost 100mmx15mm hubs and a 28" rim. I plan on installing it on the 2018 using a boost adaptor kit that includes two 5mm spacers that sit on either side of the hub on the axle as well as a 5mm ring with six bolt holes that offset and align the brake rotor with the caliper. If this creates any issues I will have a 110mm boost hub laced in to the exiting wheel.
It will be interesting to see how well it works as the shock off of my Delite Mountain is a Fox Performance with 100mm of travel, adding 20mm to what the bike came with. I sure hope that 20mm does not mess up the bike's steering geometry. A Nancy is a relative lightweight at 130lbs. With the shock air pressure set around 65-70, it may sag enough to make the difference negligible and the extra 20mm may be enough to adjust for a really cushy ride without the risk of bottoming out the shocks.
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Jay Kay
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Fingers crossed that 20mm is negligible on the geometry. I would image it is better to go +20mm than -20mm. Thanks for the response. I probably didn't need much convincing, and the main thing for me was that it is feasible to swop the Suntour out for the Fox.
I remembered you saying some time back that the 2018 model had the Fox option, and have wondered why R&M deleted it from future models. Perhaps they are just being extra risk averse regarding warranty, thinking having Fox on the Homage condones off road use. Susie rides her Homage where I ride my SD Mountain (and Delite GX Fox before that) with no problems, albeit a little slower. Being 25% lighter than me helps too. None the less, as produced they cope with light single track with or without Fox, just less comfortably for differing situations.
I remembered you saying some time back that the 2018 model had the Fox option, and have wondered why R&M deleted it from future models. Perhaps they are just being extra risk averse regarding warranty, thinking having Fox on the Homage condones off road use. Susie rides her Homage where I ride my SD Mountain (and Delite GX Fox before that) with no problems, albeit a little slower. Being 25% lighter than me helps too. None the less, as produced they cope with light single track with or without Fox, just less comfortably for differing situations.
D
Deleted member 18083
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I'm clueless when it comes to adjusting the suspension on my Homage and Powerfly. Whatever my R&M dealer or the Trek shop set is what they are!
Perhaps, someone less inept – looking to Jay, Richard and Stefan for guidance! – could explain the fundamentals of adjustment with particular reference to the long-awaited 2021 Homage. (Not too many numbers, please.)
Perhaps, someone less inept – looking to Jay, Richard and Stefan for guidance! – could explain the fundamentals of adjustment with particular reference to the long-awaited 2021 Homage. (Not too many numbers, please.)
Stefan Mikes
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I'm not really adept at the suspension adjustment but I read a thing or two and made some experiments. First of all, there is an inflation pressure table attached on the suspension fork (when in doubt, I read manufacturer's guidance on the Internet). You of course need a shock-pump (a very small pump equipped with a manometer and a Schrader valve attachment, capable of producing small volumes of high pressure air).
The o-ring is for visual inspection how the shock works. With the front shock, it should be totally pulled down initially, I unscrew the cap and connect the shock-pump to the valve. I inflate the suspension to indicated suggested value.
Now, you need to support the e-bike so it wouldn't fall. You sit on the bike with full cycling clothes, shoes, possibly with your backpack (if you use it) and you of course lean on the handlebars. The front suspension will sag. Now, you measure how far the o-ring went up. The initial sag value should be around 25% of active fork travel (the latter is given in your e-bike specs). You use the shock-pump button to release excess air or inflate to higher pressure. Now, when you go for a long ride in bumpy terrain, you will notice the o-ring might have gone up to half of active travel and that's mostly OK. If you don't jump (I don't think so), you can release more air for even softer rides. The point is, the o-ring should reach it max position only on dramatic situations (such as a jump).
Next adjustment is the rebound (not all air shocks offer adjustment). The concept is the following: In the maximum rebound setting, the shock returns to its original position slowly and the shock might remain compressed for some time. In the minimum setting, the rebound occurs immediately (the shock behaves as if a pogo-stick). The proper rebound setting is a matter of experimenting. Typically, there is another cap at the bottom of the right-side shock. It covers a rebound dial. In the maximum setting, the dial is turned all the way up clockwise. The dial works in "clicks". My pressure table also contains recommendations for rebound setting. I keep it as recommended.
The process for the rear suspension is very similar, only the o-ring on the damper should be set all way up initially (I'm talking about a vertical damper; other types exist).
Hope that helps!
Stefan Mikes
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@David Berry: Your Homage would be probably equipped with Suntour Aion air front shock and Suntour RS-19 rear damper. Your Powerfly might be equipped with Rock Shox air front shock. No experience with those but the rules are universal.
D
Deleted member 18083
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It certainly does, Stefan! The sun is ready to set, so I'll leave Homage and friend in their shed until the morning.
A quick look at the specs for 2019–20 versus 2021Homage:
- front: Suntour Aion (2019 & 2021; no change, I assume)
- rear: X-Fusion 02 (2019–20); Suntour RS-19 (2021)
Jay Kay
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- New Zealand
Great write up on setting up suspension @Stefan Mikes . That is exactly how I would explain it in my head, but you have done a much better job, and the images are very helpful. Nicely done. 
Jay Kay
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I’m still learning David. I only figured the suspension thing out about 6 months ago after plucking up the courage to give it a go one bored Sunday
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Alaskan
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Great explanation, @Stefan Mikes.
Basic rule of thumb is front fork suspension air pressure should be around 50% of the rider's weight while the rear shock should be at 100% of rider's weight as a starting point. Then using the o-ring as a guide and a ruler, measure 20% from the end of the piston and set o-ring against the body of the shock. Put enough air in so that the bikes sags to that 20% along from the other end of the piston. Check after riding to make sure you are not pushing the orign all the way out the piston shaft, add air to keep it from reaching the whole way out. It is okay to get out there every once in a while when you his a jump or a deep rut but normally it should stop just shy of the far end for a firm ride that should not bottom out. If you hit a rough patch in your testing, so much the better. As Stefan said you don't want to be pushing the o-ring ring clear to the other end of the piston unless it is in a jump with an unusually heavy landing.
Set the rebound dial at the bottom of the right fork in the fully dampened position and then slowly back it out to the point where you like the feel of it. You are looking for the bike to roll over a rough, washboard surface smoothly, which means it needs to be dampened to the point where it does not snap back right into the next bump causing a pogo stick effect. You will find that the X-fusion has a rather small air capacity and the one pump stroke really increases the kpsi dramatically, it takes a deft touch to get the pressure right.
Basic rule of thumb is front fork suspension air pressure should be around 50% of the rider's weight while the rear shock should be at 100% of rider's weight as a starting point. Then using the o-ring as a guide and a ruler, measure 20% from the end of the piston and set o-ring against the body of the shock. Put enough air in so that the bikes sags to that 20% along from the other end of the piston. Check after riding to make sure you are not pushing the orign all the way out the piston shaft, add air to keep it from reaching the whole way out. It is okay to get out there every once in a while when you his a jump or a deep rut but normally it should stop just shy of the far end for a firm ride that should not bottom out. If you hit a rough patch in your testing, so much the better. As Stefan said you don't want to be pushing the o-ring ring clear to the other end of the piston unless it is in a jump with an unusually heavy landing.
Set the rebound dial at the bottom of the right fork in the fully dampened position and then slowly back it out to the point where you like the feel of it. You are looking for the bike to roll over a rough, washboard surface smoothly, which means it needs to be dampened to the point where it does not snap back right into the next bump causing a pogo stick effect. You will find that the X-fusion has a rather small air capacity and the one pump stroke really increases the kpsi dramatically, it takes a deft touch to get the pressure right.
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Stefan Mikes
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I didn't know about that. The initial setup of the front fork was done for 100% of my weight. Now, I can see the front shock is still too stiff and I could let more air out! Thank you, Richard!
Alaskan
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I think you will like the results better, at least I hope so
amayers
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Which units is this rule of thumb good for? Rider in LBS vs KG, PSI vs Bar?
Alaskan
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100% on the forks and 50% on the shock (of rider weight) works regardless of unit of weight or pressure measurement.
Stefan Mikes
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Thank you very much Richard! I've done it and the ride has become truly soft! I have set Rebound at 6 clicks from "fully locked". We will see.I think you will like the results better, at least I hope so
marcparnes
Active Member
Stefan Mikes
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I think Richard said "use recommended pressure for half of rider's weight".
marcparnes
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I know what he meant. I was responding to this question: "Which units is this rule of thumb good for? Rider in LBS vs KG, PSI vs Bar?" In that case if you weigh 180 lbs and you use 180 psi the rule of thumb works which I also prescribe to. If you're using metric units it obviously doesn't. How can we compare KGs which is a unit of mass with BAR which is a unit of pressure? AM I overlooking something? Wouldn't be the first time
Marc
Stefan Mikes
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I think he said: "If your weight is 90 kg, use the table pressure for a 45 kg rider"
marcparnes
Active Member
I actually don't think so. Just as a coincidence when using pounds and psi it turns out that fork pressure as a good starting point happens to come out to a number half of the rider's weight. I weigh 180 lbs and a setting of 90 psi sets my sag perfectly. With the shock it works out again by coincidence. If I set my shock to 180 psi the sag comes out right. Its just a matter of numbers, its not a real "ratio". I'm pretty sure that is what he was referring to as it is a commonly acknowledged rule here where we use lbs and psi. Anyway, lets see what he says he meant.I think he said: "If your weight is 90 kg, use the table pressure for a 45 kg rider"
Marc
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