New Riese and Müller Delite Review

Congratulations! Nice to hear you being so happy!

Some remarks:
No reason to lock your suspension whatsoever. Suspension locking is only used on steep climbs with traditional MTB to increase the pedalling efficiency. No reason to do it on e-bike. The primary function of the suspension is to maintain the traction at all times. I assume some deep pothole can happen in your area! :)

I am also very negative to "replacing the Devil with the Satan". In my opinion, Johnny Watts are the ultimate SUV e-bike tyres. Their tread is of dual nature: the hard small knobs in the centre are almost silent on the pavement. The bigger soft ones help on hard cornering and offroad. Why should you replace these marvels with inferior tyres (Marathons)? I'm talking for myself: I will never ever return to Marathons. Not that Marathons are bad. They are just inferior compared to JWs!
 
Congratulations! Nice to hear you being so happy!

Some remarks:
No reason to lock your suspension whatsoever. Suspension locking is only used on steep climbs with traditional MTB to increase the pedalling efficiency. No reason to do it on e-bike. The primary function of the suspension is to maintain the traction at all times. I assume some deep pothole can happen in your area! :)
I can agree with that! May I also add that with a healthy dose of rebound one can also avoid "packing" the dampers and the bike will feel quite stiff - which is no bad thing.
 
Some remarks:
No reason to lock your suspension whatsoever. Suspension locking is only used on steep climbs with traditional MTB to increase the pedalling efficiency. No reason to do it on e-bike. The primary function of the suspension is to maintain the traction at all times. I assume some deep pothole can happen in your area! :)
I only locked it out on nice smooth dedicated bike paths, where I often ride without assist... we actually have a few nice paths in Southern California like the Pacific Electric Trail (some parts of it are pleasant, but not all). I like the occasional exercise of moving this heavy beast of a bike on my own :) It's actually not that bad without assist as long as the road is flat lol. But yeah, everywhere else I open the shocks. They're the primary reason I got this bike, after all!

I am also very negative to "replacing the Devil with the Satan". In my opinion, Johnny Watts are the ultimate SUV e-bike tyres. Their tread is of dual nature: the hard small knobs in the centre are almost silent on the pavement. The bigger soft ones help on hard cornering and offroad. Why should you replace these marvels with inferior tyres (Marathons)? I'm talking for myself: I will never ever return to Marathons. Not that Marathons are bad. They are just inferior compared to JWs!

Almost silent ;-) They do make some noise and a bit of vibration in the handlebars when riding on the street. Not bad at all though, but it's noticeable. I don't dislike the JWs, but I want to try the Marathons for myself. Which will be a while, since I haven't worn out the JWs yet lol.
 
I don't dislike the JWs, but I want to try the Marathons for myself. Which will be a while, since I haven't worn out the JWs yet lol.
There are some old school paving-block bike paths around. Riding Marathons, they behaved erratically there (I felt I was losing control). While Johnny Watts were so good I dedicated a separate thread in these Forums to them. I simply cannot understand what makes you believe Marathons could be better than the premium SUV e-bike JWs. Just because they came stock with your R&M? :)
 
There are some old school paving-block bike paths around. Riding Marathons, they behaved erratically there (I felt I was losing control). While Johnny Watts were so good I dedicated a separate thread in these Forums to them. I simply cannot understand what makes you believe Marathons could be better than the premium SUV e-bike JWs. Just because they came stock with your R&M? :)
Nay, the JWs came with the Überbike lol. But I'll check out your thread on them!
 
Loved your review. I agree with almost everything you said. I test rode a delight but I am not getting any younger doesn’t with a dual battery Homage. Had an all electric car a few years ago and batteries have come a ways but range anxiety is very real especially in winter. I also cried about the Rohloff but added it. Went with the low speed for legal reasons. I think you are right if you ride sanely you won’t get caught but I don’t trust myself to be sane. (I was born with a birth defect…lead in my right foot). I have no issues in first 128 miles. Love the Bosch Nyon
 
Rohloff:
  • Less efficient than the chain/derailleur
  • Heavy, with wrong weight distribution
  • Harder to do any field repair of the rear wheel (a flat)
  • Probably susceptible to things that could be picked up and entangled into the drivetrain such as little twigs. It is easy to remove such things on the chain/derailleur system
  • If anything goes wrong, hard to find a mechanic to fix the things while the chain/derailleur can be fixed by anyone.
Yes, there are bikepackers who have travelled for half of the world with Rohloff, also on R&M e-bike. However, you will never find a Rohloff on a gravel bike used in ultramarathon races. Your gravel bike weighs 9 kg, you have added a lot of cargo such as several bidons, a saddle bag, a handlebar bag etc, are to ride for 550 km and hopefully win the race and now what? Adding a heavy Rohloff when you often need to lift your gravel bike and carry it through a creek being immersed to your waist in water, or negotiate a huge fallen tree? Come on 🤣
Stefan, there's a few points here that missed the mark!

The Rohloff is actually the easiest to repair in the field as you just unplug it and undo the skewer, easier than a chain/derailleur setup! Also servicing the system is pretty easy too and you can get the oil kits to service it yourself. Also the belt drive is much more protected than a chain/derailleur as there's no derailleur cage hanging in harms way. Granted an internally geared up is heavier than a traditional chain/derailleur, you're talking about small amounts of weight on a 50+ lb bike...
 
. Granted an internally geared up is heavier than a traditional chain/derailleur, you're talking about small amounts of weight on a 50+ lb bike...
Not on a 37 lb e-bike though.
The IGH makes Como SL the heaviest of Specialized SL e-bikes, almost as heavy as the derailleur Como (a full power e-bike).
You say "unplug Rohloff and release a skewer". What about the belt-guard and retensioning the belt?

My derailleur procedure is:
  • Release the clutch
  • Downshift to the smallest cog
  • Removing the thru-axle
  • Removing the wheel.
That complicated?
 
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Stefan, there's a few points here that missed the mark!

The Rohloff is actually the easiest to repair in the field as you just unplug it and undo the skewer, easier than a chain/derailleur setup! Also servicing the system is pretty easy too and you can get the oil kits to service it yourself. Also the belt drive is much more protected than a chain/derailleur as there's no derailleur cage hanging in harms way. Granted an internally geared up is heavier than a traditional chain/derailleur, you're talking about small amounts of weight on a 50+ lb bike...
I agree. When I first changed the rear tyre on my S2 equiped with an E14 I was surprised that removing and reinstalling the wheel was even easier than my other bike that has a chain/derailleur.

Because I don't ride competitively, and if I felt it relevant, I would consider component weight in relation to total weight of bike plus rider.

Does it really matter, especially if you enjoy riding the bike you have with the parts and accessories you've chosen?

Cheers
 
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Not on a 37 lb e-bike though.
The IGH makes Como SL the heaviest of Specialized SL e-bikes, almost as heavy as the derailleur Como (a full power e-bike).
You say "unplug Rohloff and release a skewer". What about the belt-guard and retensioning the belt?

My derailleur procedure is:
  • Release the clutch
  • Downshift to the smallest cog
  • Removing the thru-axle
  • Removing the wheel.
That complicated?
In my experience the belt does not need retensioning. The wheel/axle easily slides back to its previous preset position and therefore belt tension.
 
Not on a 37 lb e-bike though.
The IGH makes Como SL the heaviest of Specialized SL e-bikes, almost as heavy as the derailleur Como (a full power e-bike).
You say "unplug Rohloff and release a skewer". What about the belt-guard and retensioning the belt?

My derailleur procedure is:
  • Release the clutch
  • Downshift to the smallest cog
  • Removing the thru-axle
  • Removing the wheel.
That complicated?

For most folks yes this is very complicated.
 
Been curious to hear a comparison to the Priority Current with its enormous 140 nm of torque. Based on the one YouTube video that exists of the Current doing a hill climb, I’m not surprised to hear that it’s roughly on par with the Performance Line Speed/CX (85 nm).

Could they be measuring torque performance differently & is there a standardized method that all manufacturers use?
 
Been curious to hear a comparison to the Priority Current with its enormous 140 nm of torque. Based on the one YouTube video that exists of the Current doing a hill climb, I’m not surprised to hear that it’s roughly on par with the Performance Line Speed/CX (85 nm).

Could they be measuring torque performance differently & is there a standardized method that all manufacturers use?
That's one of the things I was wondering. I haven't seen anything resembling a standard for this. Of course, that doesn't mean one doesn't exist, but I sure haven't found it. What input current at what rpm, for instance? How about showing the torque plotted on a curve? It seems to me there's a bit of room for fudging things in the advertising.

Having owned both bikes, hills on the Delite are about the same as the Current in a roughly similar gear, even with the Delite being a heavier bike. With the Rohloff, the Delite is much better. After a few months, I'm still thrilled with this bike!
 
Been curious to hear a comparison to the Priority Current with its enormous 140 nm of torque. Based on the one YouTube video that exists of the Current doing a hill climb, I’m not surprised to hear that it’s roughly on par with the Performance Line Speed/CX (85 nm).

Could they be measuring torque performance differently & is there a standardized method that all manufacturers use?
The torque figure only exists on paper. What really matters is the Motor Mechanical Peak Power (which is, for example, given by Specialized in their whitepaper). Also, specifying the maximum electrical power instead of the mechanical power is the marketing thing.
 
March, 2023: So, I fiiiinally received the bike I ordered back in September! A Riese und Müller Delite Rohloff HS, GX, with the Fox Float suspension. And a front rack and bag. I opted for the slow boat shipping because I figured I spent enough on the Delite as it was, and I didn’t want to drop another $400 on air shipping. I already have an excellent e-bike so it wouldn’t kill me to wait for a bit.
This is gonna be long, and it’s Friday, so freshen up your drink and light a cigar.


Brand Spanking New:
View attachment 151226

I have a Priority Current with a Shimano Nexus-5 hub shifter, and riding it for well over a year really helped me figure out what I needed in an e-bike. The Current is a great bike - lots of torque and power for getting up every hill around here. I live near the Hollywood Hills in Los Angeles, California, USA, and we have some seriously steep streets around here. We actually have steeper streets, and more of them, than San Francisco, oddly enough. San Francisco has hills; we have mountains. Anyway, that was my original goal in an e-bike - to be able to get up the steep streets around here, and up around Griffith Park.

The Current solved that. It can get me and my fat 220-pound / 100Kg butt up every hill that I’m brave enough or crazy enough to ride back down, and we have some steep ones. Once I could ride up in the Hills, I found out that the streets up there are really badly maintained. They’’re terrible - cracked and raised concrete, potholes, lousy asphalt repairs. Plus, there are some dirt roads and trails in Griffith Park that I discovered, and wanted to ride.

The Current could handle all that, but my body couldn’t. Hey, I’m pushing 60, and man, my joints would ache after a good ride over those bad roads. So, I had solved the problem of hills, but once I got up those hills and had ridden around, there was revealed another problem: My sorry old arse couldn’t take the beating dished out by those streets! lol

Typical Hollywood Hills Street:
View attachment 151230


So, I need a suspension. The 18-month experience of riding a non-suspension bike gave me a clear idea of what I fully needed. If I’m going in, the experience gave me the confidence to go ALL in.

I tried a number of bikes with suspension forks, but I needed something for my arse, too. Seatpost suspensions (thudbuster, etc.) were helpful, but no help if I’m standing on the pedals. Most full suspension bikes are mountain bikes, and although I do go off road, those are dirt roads and fire trails not hardcore mountain biking. I wanted something I could commute on, too. That means fenders and racks and lights and road-style geometry.

More Bad Road:
View attachment 151233


All the upper-range bikes from major brands are really good. What set the Delite apart for me was, oddly enough, the rear rack. I don’t think any other bike has a sprung rear rack. At least, not any that are available in the US. They may have a rear suspension, but not a suspended rear rack. My lumbar and cervical (neck) bones appreciate a rear suspension, but my camera and computer really appreciate that sprung rear carrier rack. And less unsprung weight improves handling. I’m 6’ 4” / 193cm in bare feet, so I opted for the largest frame. With the dropper post, this is a big bike for a big guy. It fits me great.

Also, the rack has MIK built in, so I don’t need to attach an adaptor plate to it. I love MIK bags and baskets. No dicking around clipping them on and messing with velcro straps to secure them. No bungies and zip-ties. Just click on a pair of panniers - it takes literally a second or two - and they ain’t going anywhere. I can take the bike out of my apartment with the bags off to make it easier, and then just click them on once it’s outside. Click the bags off, and click a basket on, or a trunk bag. Fast, simple, and totally solid. The Delite rear rack has that built in and I love it.


Fully Loaded:
View attachment 151234


So, now that I’ve ridden my new überbike over various ugly terrain for over 100 miles / 161 KM, here are my impressions.

Biggest benefit: The suspension. Fox doesn’t call it “Float” for nothing. The worst roads that used to jar my bones right to the joints just float right under me. I can still tell it’s bad road, but it doesn’t hurt anymore. I ride more, faster, and for longer, and I don’t feel it afterwards. This is freakin’ huge. I love riding this bike!

Motor: The Bosch system is so refined. The Priority Current motor system has lots of torque, and it’s great, but Bosch is just so smooth and nicely integrated. The power comes on smoothly as I press the pedal, cuts out right away when I take pressure off, changes assist level nearly instantly as I press the switch, and all the parts and sensors work so well together. On paper, the Bosch claims 85 N/M torque vs. the Current’s claim of 140 N/M, but by the seat of the pants, I’d say they are about the same. The Bosch system works better as a complete system of sensors, controller, and motor. It feels more like riding a bicycle, but with a massive boost of power. Bottom Line: I can ride up steep hills faster in the same equivalent gear.

The Rohloff: I ditched derailleurs back in the ‘90s. I hated them. Bloody fiddly things always getting the chain bound up between cogs and crap caught in them. Granted, this was before such modern luxuries as indexed shifting and the like. Back then, you just had to learn how far to move the lever to get a good shift and commit it to muscle memory. There were no notches and indexed electric gizmos. Kids these days have it easy lol.

Anyway, that’s to say I’ve been riding hub shifters for 30 years, and a few more if you count the 3-speed I had as a kid, so I like them and I’m familiar with how to use them. This is my first Rohloff, and I can say it is the Undisputed King of hub shifters. This thing is bloody solid. The gear range is insane. I can roll this 60+ pound bike up one of the steepest hills around here in 1st gear just using Eco Mode, or go 30mph in 14th at a pleasantly relaxed sub-80 rpm cadence. No squishiness, and firm precise shifts. Bloody brilliant.

I rode it all the way up here... from all the way down there!
View attachment 151236


But the pushbutton actuator could be improved. It’s not very ergonomic. It’s a bit of a bitch to get my thumb over there from riding position. After a few rides, I rotated it downward a lot which helped, but I’d rather see the electronic shifting done via a rotary selector like the cable shifter, but with electronic contacts so that it wouldn’t need the cables. It would be nice to just grab and twist 2, 3, or 5 gears or whatever instead of pushing a binary up/down button. It can be done. I know it can be done. Rohloff could do it. I’d like to see it done. But I’m getting used to working it as it is, and I’m getting pretty good with it. It’s not nearly a deal-breaker though, just something to get used to and something I hope Rohloff designs at some point.

Seat: Not as padded as the one on my Current, but surprisingly, it is more comfortable. Seat/arse interface is a personal thing, but I was expecting I’d have to try a few seats out and I don’t think I’ll have to after all. I’m happy with it.

Lights: I got the optional front rack and bag (I did say I was going ALL in), and the light came mounted on the handlebars. The bag kind of blocks the light, but the dealer included a kit to move the light to the front of the rack. I’m sure they would have installed it for me, but I wanted to try the whole bike as delivered. After one night ride I went ahead and put it on the front rack myself. I actually prefer it there not only because it’s not blocked by the bag anymore, but because it’s more stable mounted on the frame rather than the bars. The beam is wide enough to make that work. The front and rear lights are BRIGHT, and I love having a brake light when I’m riding on the streets. The high-beam button lights up blue when I have the high beam on, which is a nice touch.


The light is much better mounted on the front rack.
View attachment 151227


Tires: I got the GX option for the Fox suspension upgrade, not for the knobby (or knobbly as they say in the UK I think lol) tires. Tyres? Anyway, rather than swap off the brand-new knobblies for the regular GT tires I thought I’d just ride these and see how I liked them. They are quieter on the street than I expected. Definitely better in the dirt and the muddy conditions that Southern California has been having lately than street tires. I’ll hang onto these! When they wear out I’ll reconsider the whole matter, but I didn’t expect to like them as much as I do.

The Johnny Watts tires are handy here:
View attachment 151231

And here:
View attachment 151232


Battery/Range: On my inaugural ride, I went 16 miles in moderate to hilly terrain and used 30% of the battery. On my most recent 28 miles, all up and down hills with some level ground in the middle, I used 67%. Being a new bike, I was laying pretty heavy on Turbo just to check it out. I figure that gives me a safe estimate of around 40 miles of range. Which is enough, and about what I expected. YMMV (Your Mileage May Vary), of course. If I need more, I’ll buy another battery and throw it in one of my panniers. With the massive range of the Rohloff, I can ride this bike without any assist on the flats, just not very fast lol. So unless I have to ride up some steep hills to get home, I’m good. Even then, with the assist on Eco and in 1st gear on the Rohloff, I can ride up some pretty steep hills without using much battery power.

My daily ride is only 5-10 miles for exercise, and it’s about 13 miles to my office, where I can recharge the battery. A recreational weekend ride may take me 30-40 miles on mildly hilly terrain. So that’s why I didn’t get the Superdelite. Why have the extra weight of the Super when I will rarely use two batteries? Range anxiety is a thing, my friends. Watch out for it. That one time where I might have to ride full speed, into a headwind, uphill both ways, for 50 miles… may never happen lol. Riding an e-bike for a year before making this rather hefty purchase informed my decision, by knowing how much battery really I use for how much I really ride. I recommend considering how you actually ride before opting for the heavier bike. I ride often with the assist in Eco, or off - I don’t really need much assist on flat terrain unless I’m riding on busy streets with cars and *need* to go fast. On side streets I’m not using Turbo, just Eco, or nothing. Even going up moderate hills, I shift down, and Sport is plenty of assist. OTOH, if I had medical conditions or other reasons where I would need to use the high levels of power assist often, then the SuperDelite would be the right choice. Again, YMMV. But the range of the Delite is plenty for me, and I like the lighter bike with the lower center of gravity.

The Lock: It comes with an Abus Bordo lock, keyed the same as the battery lock. I use Abus locks for everything - padlocks and bike locks. They’re good. I was pleased to see that the Delite uses the X-Plus keyway, which is the same as my existing Abus D-locks, meaning that they *could* be keyed the same. But frankly, the Bordo doesn’t really do it for me. It pretty much combines the worst things about D-Locks with the worst things about chain locks, and I’m not sure it’s as strong as either. If I didn’t already have good locks, the included Bordo would be useful. But the Bordo costs around $140, so I’d rather it was an option that I could leave off because I already have good locks. Or better yet, charge a few bucks to give me the option to specify a key code when I order my bike - then the bike battery would arrive keyed the same as my existing Abus D-Locks. Verdict: Meh.

The Bordo is good but I like the D-Locks better, along with a supplementary noose chain.
View attachment 151229


The Local Bike Shop: I bought it from LA Fly Rides, who used to be just a few blocks away from me on Hollywood Boulevard. I did my test rides there, which was great because I could test the bikes in my own neighborhood where I usually ride. In between placing my order and the bike being delivered, they moved to Calabasas, which is about 30-40 minutes west out the 101 freeway. Still plenty close enough since I have a good bike rack (QuikR Mach 2 - highly recommended!) on my trusty Subaru estate (station wagon). Anyway, they were excellent. They called me as soon as it came in, and spent maybe an hour or so going over the bike with me and getting it fitted right, and the suspension adjusted. Their head mechanic had spent some time in The Netherlands, and I go there often, so we had a good chat the whole time about how wonderful it is there for bike riders lol. But yeah, he set it up to my basic height and weight parameters before I got there, and I rode it around, he did some tweaks, I rode it more, he tweaked it again, rinse and repeat, and got everything as I liked it. I popped it onto the rack and took her home. All in all, great service. And they’re not too far away for future maintenance and service needs. BTW, the sea shipping took 8 weeks, so it arrived much sooner than the expected 12 weeks.

Fits nicely on QuikR Stuff rack.
View attachment 151238


I Almost Forgot About The Nyon Display: I am a computer nerd and a reader of manuals. So setting this up was easy. YMMV. It has GPS Nav, which I actually find useful, in contrast to others’ experience. Having it find my way home after getting lost among the winding little streets of the Hollywood Hills without having to dig for my cell phone is convenient, and it works. All the data compilations, like what percent of the time I used each assist level, altitude gain, hill grade, etc., aren’t really necessary to having fun on a bike, but they are useful and I like having them. I paid the few extra bucks for the lock feature. It pretty much bricks the bike unless my specific Nyon is attached to it. No motor, no gear shifting. I think it’s a good idea. Now I just have to decide whether to park it in 1st gear, where I can run faster than the thief can pedal it, or 14th so it’s harder to zip off with it. lol.


Front Rack and Bag: I recommend it! Cripes, I’m deep into the pockets for this bloody thing already, let’s just do it all, eh? But seriously, if I’m looking to make a trip that includes a stop at the Bicycle Café where I’ll need to lock this bloody expensive bastard up, I can pop a lock or two in there easily. The weight of a couple of locks is barely noticeable up on the front frame-mounted rack, inside the nice bag. My cell phone and parking lot clicker go in the two little zip pockets. There’s still room for other stuff. Anything else I may need like work stuff, cameras, rain jacket, etc. goes in my Basil double panniers, easily MIK-Clicked onto the rear rear rack. The Delite is a Beast of Burden. And it still goes fast. And Smooooooth.


I don't always ride hills!
View attachment 151240


Little Conveniences: The rear view mirror folds away like on a car, making it easier to wrangle the bike through the door into my place. I love the brake lights, the high beam front light, and the high beam button lighting up. The Fox shocks are adjustable from full cushiness on bad terrain to almost-hard-tail on smooth roads. The dropper seat post is really handy at red lights and for getting on and off the bike. There is a horn, and it’s loud, for riding on busy streets with cars. I still put my bike bell on it tho. I like my bike bell. And my Cateye blinking rear light. My bell and my Cateye light have followed me through several bikes and a couple of decades, so onto my new Panzerfahrrad they go lol.

The Price: Every review points out how much R&M bikes cost, so I won’t bother other than to say there are bikes from other makers that cost more and don’t meet all my needs (Trek makes a pretty awesome eMTB for $3K more than my Delite) and there are others that cost less… and also don’t meet my needs. But I can say that this bike solved all my problems and I think it’s worth it.

Overall: I freakin’ love this bike. No “buyer’s remorse” whatsoever. I’m riding more often and for longer distances than on my previous e-bike, and certainly more than on my previous push bike - and thus having more fun! - because it’s just more comfortable in every way. It feels solid and surprisingly nimble for a heavier bicycle, and it’s just a blast to ride. I can go pretty much everywhere with this bike. I’ve ridden it on good roads, bad roads, wet roads, dirt trails, muddy trails, grassy parks, steep hills, and deep gravel next to train tracks… everywhere I’d want to go, and it has performed brilliantly.

Is it my Dream Bike? OK, no. My Dream Bike is a plain old beat-up Dutch omafiets (granny bike), in the Netherlands, riding from town to town on beautiful fietspads (protected bike paths) lol. Unfortunately, I live in Los Angeles, and for riding on crappy roads, with crappy drivers, having to hop up onto crappy sidewalks and back down over curbs, and having to go up into the Hills to get away from the crappy drivers (and dealing with even crappier roads up there), this bike is IT. I am pleased!


Ducks: Just Because!
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Nice review ... Filbert Street in SF is often considered the steepest street in San Francisco, with a grade of 31.5%. It's tied with 22nd Street between Church and Vicksburg as the steepest street in the city. Apparently Eldrid St in Highland Park Ca has a 33% grade so you are somewhat correct. Holding to within LA vs SF city limits, SF wins hands down. ;)

Also, I'm 6'5" 210 and I bought the 2023 SuperDelite Rohloff 56cm specifically for the dual battery option. My favorite ride is 50 miles of paved trail, gravel road and single dirt track with 3K feet of climbing so even the new 750W single batteries would not get it done. I'm kinda fond of an 18-19 mph pace (80-90 rpm) and Sport Mode is needed to meet that goal and still have 20-30% on the batteries.
 
Nice review ... Filbert Street in SF is often considered the steepest street in San Francisco, with a grade of 31.5%. It's tied with 22nd Street between Church and Vicksburg as the steepest street in the city. Apparently Eldrid St in Highland Park Ca has a 33% grade so you are somewhat correct. Holding to within LA vs SF city limits, SF wins hands down. ;)

Also, I'm 6'5" 210 and I bought the 2023 SuperDelite Rohloff 56cm specifically for the dual battery option. My favorite ride is 50 miles of paved trail, gravel road and single dirt track with 3K feet of climbing so even the new 750W single batteries would not get it done. I'm kinda fond of an 18-19 mph pace (80-90 rpm) and Sport Mode is needed to meet that goal and still have 20-30% on the batteries.
Eldred Street is insanity lol. Even if I could get up it, I'd be afraid to ride back down!

There's another good one, about 30-ish %, called Fargo St. near Silverlake. The LA Wheelmen used to have an annual hill climb event there (on pedal power bikes), but unfortunately the City made the street one-way going the wrong way (downhill) a few years ago so that event hasn't happened since.

Yeah, 50 miles with that much climbing is definitely going to need the dual batteries!
 
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