Upgrade of Huffy Oslo folding ebike

I don't "need" another oslo battery, but I am interested. I'm in western Washington.
 
An update on my quest to make a more perfect Huffy Oslo. I had previously replaced the bike's controller with a KT 15a kit, and finally got around to breaking open the bottom bracket to install the cadence sensor as it is supposed to be. About the only thing that I found good and tight on that bike was that bottom bracket, had to slug that puppy apart. Then I installed a twist throttle on the right side and moved the twist shifter to the left.
When I find a suitable rear derailer I will replace the cassette with an 11-32 and put on a blue chain I found on ebay. After that I want to replace the flimsy brake calipers with some shiny aluminum calipers. Oh, and then a new seat.
 

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Thanks fubag! I got the battery. You have helped to keep the dream of a more perfect Huffy Oslo alive! I don't really know if that's a good thing. As if you can make the Oslo a good ebike folder, but I'm a going to try.
 
The overnight rain melted the snow so I was able to test ride my newly improved Huffy Oslo. Previously I had replaced the controller, installed a twist grip throttle on the right, and moved the twist shifter to the left. What I did on this Huffy go around was install a 11-34 freewheel, replaced the derailleur and chain, and put shiny used Tektro V-brake calipers on, with Kool-Stop brake pads.
I like the speed on that 11 tooth cog. I guess it was a 14 before. Living in hilly country I always want a climbing gear, hence the 32 cog. The new brakes stop much, much better than the junk that was on it.
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The bike was about $340 tax and shipping included. With the new parts I have about $500 into it. Now it seems like a decent ebike folder.
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Four days ago it was 24 and snow and ice on the road. Today, low 50's, clear roads (except for the leftover traction grit) with no wind or rain! So I did my errands on the Oslo.
The 11 tooth cog moved the bike very well, and at a good clip, even at PAS 1. I tried climbing a hill with the motor off on the 34 cog. That sucked. A decent derailleur makes for positive shifts, and no chain noise while pedaling. The derailleur that came with the bike was junk, which seems to be a thing with the Oslo--use of lowest priced components available. I guess that's to be expected on a sub- $400 ebike, though it was originally marketed at over $600. My reworked brakes are great. So overall I am very happy with the improved Oslo for its intended use as a townie bike. Folded, it fits great in the boot of my VW Golf.
 
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Finally got my two "improved" Oslo's out on the road together.

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My friend loved riding hers, though she's a newbie to ebikes. On our final hill home she rode up on full throttle. I was on full PAS and pedaling with effort just to keep up with her. I guess my fifty more pound makes a big difference in uphill speed while on a 250 watt hubmotor.

The Oslo's rest while at the local watering hole.

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The three pin male red socket is from huffy's PL Power-switch/LED-display, red+white wire are from power switch and black is ground for powering led on the switch. If you want to hook up the TPV Throttle/Power-switch/Voltage-display, TPV's yellow and blue wire should be connected as TPV-yellow=>PL-red, TPV-blue=>PL-white. The TPV voltage display ground is going through the throttle ground wire. The voltage display works in door well but difficult to read outdoor some times.

It is worth mentioning that Huffy Oslo cadence sensor is integrated one. Fix-position sensor and rotate magnetic points are inside plastic casing similar to one found in Amazon


And product usage guide line saying that "Parameters: If the magnetic dot does not work, you need to adjust the parameters of the display (adjust according to the correct parameters in the display manual). If you are using a KT display of the same series, please adjust the parameters from C1 to 7", after change KT-LCD display setting, KT-controller is able to pick up Huffy Oslo cadence sensor. If you using KT controller but paired/connected KT display cannot change that parameter, then you have to replace Huffy Oslo's cadence sensor with one bundled with the controller.
Hi. If possible might I ask for a bit more info on this? When say 'PL - red" do you mean the three wires circled in the attached (red, white, black)? And if yes, do you mean cutting those wires and splicing in (prior to the white connector)? Also, if I do this, and leave the original on/off button on- will the throttle work seperate to the PAS? In other words, If I power on the new throttle (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HYPVC7F?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details ) with its power button, but dont power on the original huffy power button (with led backlight), will the throttle work but not the PAS? Thanks, and sorry in advance if those were dumb questions!
 

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Hi. If possible might I ask for a bit more info on this? When say 'PL - red" do you mean the three wires circled in the attached (red, white, black)? And if yes, do you mean cutting those wires and splicing in (prior to the white connector)? Also, if I do this, and leave the original on/off button on- will the throttle work seperate to the PAS? In other words, If I power on the new throttle (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HYPVC7F?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details ) with its power button, but dont power on the original huffy power button (with led backlight), will the throttle work but not the PAS? Thanks, and sorry in advance if those were dumb questions!
Sorry, wrong pic attached above- I mean this one (where the white, red, black wires are on the panel/bike side, and the corresponding wires on the controller side are black, red, blue).
 

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From the harryS post on page 1:
Throttle does work with the stock controller. It's the three pin white connector that has a cap on it.
Black is ground. Red is +5V. Green/white is signal.

And harryS from page 4: The Huffy controller cannot use the on/off switch on that throttle/voltage display that MaKlounkee bought. It's a different design, with different voltages on the wires. So send it back if you can, and just buy a throttle.

My recommendation is to buy a 15 amp KT controller kit. I only needed to do a gender change on the brake c/o input. Putting on the kit's cadence sensor, done right, needs the bottom bracket opened. The BB was the only thing I found tight on an Oslo.
 
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From the harryS post on page 1:
Throttle does work with the stock controller. It's the three pin white connector that has a cap on it.
Black is ground. Red is +5V. Green/white is signal.

And harryS from page 4: The Huffy controller cannot use the on/off switch on that throttle/voltage display that MaKlounkee bought. It's a different design, with different voltages on the wires. So send it back if you can, and just buy a throttle.

My recommendation is to buy a 15 amp KT controller kit. I only needed to do a gender change on the brake c/o input. Putting on the kit's cadence sensor, done right, needs the bottom bracket opened. The BB was the only thing I found tight on an Oslo.
Hi,

Thanks for the reply. I think that beetlefan got it to work- in post #72 he talks about which wires to connect and that the sensor is hard to see outdoors, so that leads me to believe that it can work if you slice in the yellow and blue wires as described by beetlefan?
 
Hi everyone!

I decided to finally make an account after man months of following the posts and modding my Huffy Oslo (throttle, new crankset, and new freewheel).

Just did a 40 mile NYC Bike Tour successfully with it! 😄

Thinking ahead... It doesn't look like extra/replacement batteries are very accessible... Huffy sells 'em for about the price of the bike itself!!

Any ideas for getting a replacement battery? I imagine in 2-3 years it's gonna need it.

Also, has anyone ever installed a generic chain guard after replacing a chainring?
 
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A friend and I took my 2 Oslo's out for a ride yesterday. Once they're fixed they are pretty good ebikes. I wish I would of bid on 10 or more of them for something approaching $200 because it takes about $200 to fix one, and then it's a great folder for $400. Living in a tourist town, and after riding the Oslo's together, I was kind of fantasizing about doing local tours on ebikes. Having a fleet of easy to ride relatively slow ebikes would seem to fit that niche, though I wonder how a heavy rider would fare. A 250 watt hub motor is sure sensitive to weight.
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Never got mine to work, but Huffy customer service did come through for me. They sent me a new battery last week. Took almost a month to get the replacement. So far so good with new battery, and I have been very pleased with Huffy customer service so far as well.
It looks like I need to make a claim as my battery won't charge after trying everything. It sounds like Huffy was pretty accomadating but let me know if you have any advice!

Does anybody know what the warranty on the battery is? I bought from Kohl's and am approaching the 1 year mark, but the Huffy website seems to indicate all their ebikes have a 2 year battery warranty.
 
does anyone want or need a spare brand new 36V battery for the huffy oslo? i had reached out to have it replaced but then ended up returning the bike back to the retailor I bought it from; basically brand new still in the box from Huffy just have to pay whatever shipping to your location; im based in SoCal, thanks

*edit gromike graciously has taken it off my hands lol
I have a totally dead battery. Any advice for getting a dead battery replaced? Did they require you to ship them the dead one? I am digging up my order info in case I need it to make a claim. Thanks in advance.
 
From the harryS post on page 1:
Throttle does work with the stock controller. It's the three pin white connector that has a cap on it.
Black is ground. Red is +5V. Green/white is signal.

And harryS from page 4: The Huffy controller cannot use the on/off switch on that throttle/voltage display that MaKlounkee bought. It's a different design, with different voltages on the wires. So send it back if you can, and just buy a throttle.

My recommendation is to buy a 15 amp KT controller kit. I only needed to do a gender change on the brake c/o input. Putting on the kit's cadence sensor, done right, needs the bottom bracket opened. The BB was the only thing I found tight on an Oslo.
Thanks for all the info on your upgrades, as long as I can get a solid battery I will definitely make some too. I am hoping you might share your experience with the batteries, it sounds like you have 3 and use the bike(s) at least occasionally. Have all 3 held up after some recharge cycles? Pretty equally? Thanks!
 
Yes, I do have 3 Oslo batteries and have not had a problem. I ride one Oslo all the time, the other gets occasional use for a guest ride, and the 3rd battery is in an experimental home-built ebike.
After making sure the charger tests good, I'd be inclined to open the battery up and look inside, providing that Huffy isn't going to honor the battery warranty. It is my belief that Huffy washed its hands of the Oslo after its ebay liquidation. The controller doomed the product, though if replaced, it can be a really handy little bike. Not long ago I saw the battery listed on the Huffy website for $399! That's more than I paid for a Huffy, which included shipping and tax for the complete bike. Maybe order a 36v rack mount battery from some other supplier.
 
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Well, the Huffy Oslo is back under $300 at this seller: https://www.wellbots.com/products/huffy-oslo-electric-folding-bike?sscid=a1k7_7kzk4& .
With the code OSLO15 it comes to $288 shipped.

I found the Huffy to be a great bike once fixed. That fixing is a new controller as a number one priority. I also replaced the rear derailleur, freewheel, chain, and brake calipers and pads. About $200 bucks to make it a decent folder, on top of the $300 for the bike.
 
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