Upgrade of Huffy Oslo folding ebike

[harryS]

This was the connector on my Huffy. It was in one of the posts on the first page. The black cover is an empty male JST plug. It comes off.

Then you can buy a throttle like this one. It comes with an empty JST plug and the pins wired into the throttle wires, which allows you to order the pins to match the controller. Don't change anything else, and the throttle should work, ON/Off should work, PAS should work, etc,

https://www.amazon.com/Honses-Electric-Scooter-Throttle-Bike/dp/B09P61CXQB/ref=sr_1_21?crid=2L0SDXDCDQ0S4&keywords=ebike+throttle+thumb&qid=1666394947&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI1LjcyIiwicXNhIjoiNS4yNSIsInFzcCI6IjQuODUifQ%3D%3Dsprefix=ebike+throttle%2Caps%2C208&sr=8-21

It works better if you change to a 20A KT controller with a nice LCD9 with built-in throttle, but now you're spending $100.

 

[beetlefan]

Was able to connect controller (Brain Power) with display (s886 with throttle) got from Amazon for $47+

Amazon.com: Gaeirt Motor Brushless Controller, 36V 350W Waterproof Brushless Controller Kit with LCD Display Gear Motor Controller for Electric Bicycle Scooter : Sports & Outdoors

Buy Gaeirt Motor Brushless Controller, 36V 350W Waterproof Brushless Controller Kit with LCD Display Gear Motor Controller for Electric Bicycle Scooter: Motors - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

and long return period Jan 31, 2023
plus 9pin motor extension cable

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B93J2V5S?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

have to go through self-learning steps in order to turn the motor on by throttle. Will try to put s886 on handle and try out the PAS

initial road testing isn't good. not able to display ride speed unless turn the throttle. Will start to work on KT controller ordered from ebay (link in this thread) and waiting for KT-LCD9L(left throttle) to be delivered

KT LCD9 Color Display Meter with Right/Left Throttle 24V/36V/48V Ebike display | eBay

Display of turned on throttle (THROTTLE);. 6--Installation(throttle):Left / Right. 6.Power-assist ratio (or throttle) gear (ASSIST) switch;. Battery capacity indicator ;. Data clearing;. 1--Type: KT-LCD9 TFT Display.

www.ebay.com

 

[steven1976]

The throttle I ordered was plug-n-play: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08HYPVC7F

The voltage display and power button was easy to install as well since the Oslo comes with the power button on the handlebar. I reused the connector on the new throttle's voltage and signal wire and both the voltage display and power switch works as intended.

It is definitely a lot better than straight pedal assist. With the throttle, you can control the amount of assistance it gives, whereas default PAS just always max assistance. I usually throttle to get the motor started and then pedal to reduce the PAS lag.

Hi, can you show me how to connect the new throttle's voltage and signal? I got the same throttle as yours but I only know connect the throttle. TIA

 

[harryS]

Was able to connect controller (Brain Power) with display (s886 with throttle) got from Amazon for $47+

Amazon.com: Gaeirt Motor Brushless Controller, 36V 350W Waterproof Brushless Controller Kit with LCD Display Gear Motor Controller for Electric Bicycle Scooter : Sports & Outdoors

Buy Gaeirt Motor Brushless Controller, 36V 350W Waterproof Brushless Controller Kit with LCD Display Gear Motor Controller for Electric Bicycle Scooter: Motors - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

and long return period Jan 31, 2023
plus 9pin motor extension cable

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B93J2V5S?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

have to go through self-learning steps in order to turn the motor on by throttle. Will try to put s886 on handle and try out the PAS

initial road testing isn't good. not able to display ride speed unless turn the throttle.

There is a speed sensor in the Huffy motor and it outputs a signal in the Huffy motor cable, but the Huffy extension cable doesn't connect to it. Your standard 9 pin extension will have the full nine wire complement. You put the red, black, yellow, green, blue and white pins into the molex connector? The white wire is the speed signal. Now to see if your contyroller expects it there.
.
Did the brainpower controller have a white wire in its six pin connector? I didn't see it in the amazon ad. Look for a three pin connector labeled "speed sensor" in your documentation. The signal wire from that connector then has to be routed to the white pin in the motor connector, There may also be a setting in the S866 to activate that signal.
.
Otherwise, when there is no speed sensor data, the controller knows how fast the notor is spinning, and can use the gear ratio and wheel size to compute speed, but when you coast the motor doesn't turn. Then they rely on the speed sensor signal. Why don't they always use the speed sensor? When he notor is spinning, the controller is probably too busy to compute speed from the speed sensor? I dunno, I think perhaps the first designer did it this way, and all subsequent controllers have been copied from that first design, even at different companies..
.
I had an S866 display for a few days. Its buttons felt so cheap. The controller that came with it was probably the same as yours, but it didn't work. Sent it back.

 

[gromike]

I had very good luck with a 15 amp Kt controller kit. A heck of a lot better than just adding a thumb throttle, though that thumb throttle is so much better than just the stock controller. Once you fix the electronics your bum will feel the full pain of that bicycle seat.

 

[MaKlounkee]

I got the throttle/switch/voltage-display some other have mentioned and I'm not sure how to wire it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TXKJKHY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

The three wire throttle lead (red black green) is straightforward of course (snaps perfectly into the controllers throttle lead, which came with a black plastic cap that needed removing). But then there are 2 other thicker wires, yellow and blue, for operation of the voltage-display and on/off switch.

But the OEM handlebar on/off switch has three wires! That is confusing to me (considering a simple light switch for example with 2 wires, which are connected when the switch is on, and disconnected when the switch is off).

So I believe some splicing is necessary but not sure how, or if it is possible to have the switch function. (The switch isn't really necessary as there is a switch on the battery for on/off purposes). I will hopefully get a photo up soon, I forgot to take one while tinkering. Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[gromike]

When I put that same throttle/switch/voltage display I only hooked up the throttle. I was too lazy to trace the switch wires back to the controller.
The throttle worked good, but then I relaced the bike's controller with Kt 15 amp controller kit that included a thumb throttle. Significantly more power and speed with the new controller. So, for about 50 bucks you can fix what made this bike such a marketing failure.

 

[harryS]

The Huffy controller cannot use the on/off switch on that throttle/voltage display that MaKlounkee bought. It's a different design, with different voltages on the wires. So send it back if you can, and just buy a throttle.

The Oslo is a sweet little bike with a KT controller, 5 levels of current controlled pedal assist, and a throttle. I gave mine away and am watching ebay to see if Huffy reduces the price again. Currently selling it again, but at $499.

I think I'll put up a bad review. It is a crap bike for that price with no throttle and a wonky single level pedal assist.

 

[beetlefan]

There is a speed sensor in the Huffy motor and it outputs a signal in the Huffy motor cable, but the Huffy extension cable doesn't connect to it. Your standard 9 pin extension will have the full nine wire complement. You put the red, black, yellow, green, blue and white pins into the molex connector? The white wire is the speed signal. Now to see if your contyroller expects it there.
.
Did the brainpower controller have a white wire in its six pin connector? I didn't see it in the amazon ad. Look for a three pin connector labeled "speed sensor" in your documentation. The signal wire from that connector then has to be routed to the white pin in the motor connector, There may also be a setting in the S866 to activate that signal.
.
Otherwise, when there is no speed sensor data, the controller knows how fast the notor is spinning, and can use the gear ratio and wheel size to compute speed, but when you coast the motor doesn't turn. Then they rely on the speed sensor signal. Why don't they always use the speed sensor? When he notor is spinning, the controller is probably too busy to compute speed from the speed sensor? I dunno, I think perhaps the first designer did it this way, and all subsequent controllers have been copied from that first design, even at different companies..
.
I had an S866 display for a few days. Its buttons felt so cheap. The controller that came with it was probably the same as yours, but it didn't work. Sent it back.

All 6 wire/pins pushed into mulex connector. My brainpower controller takes white speed input. But it will not read the speed signal from motor with non-huffy 9 pin motor extension cable. Replace with KT controller it is able to read motor coast speed. not sure is coming from speed sensor or hall sensor. paired display for brainpower model S886 is for scooter rather than bike. ordered KT-LCD9L already in USPS system and hope to be delivered in couple days

 

[beetlefan]

I got the throttle/switch/voltage-display some other have mentioned and I'm not sure how to wire it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TXKJKHY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

The three wire throttle lead (red black green) is straightforward of course (snaps perfectly into the controllers throttle lead, which came with a black plastic cap that needed removing). But then there are 2 other thicker wires, yellow and blue, for operation of the voltage-display and on/off switch.

But the OEM handlebar on/off switch has three wires! That is confusing to me (considering a simple light switch for example with 2 wires, which are connected when the switch is on, and disconnected when the switch is off).

So I believe some splicing is necessary but not sure how, or if it is possible to have the switch function. (The switch isn't really necessary as there is a switch on the battery for on/off purposes). I will hopefully get a photo up soon, I forgot to take one while tinkering. Thanks in advance for any advice.

The three pin male red socket is from huffy's PL Power-switch/LED-display, red+white wire are from power switch and black is ground for powering led on the switch. If you want to hook up the TPV Throttle/Power-switch/Voltage-display, TPV's yellow and blue wire should be connected as TPV-yellow=>PL-red, TPV-blue=>PL-white. The TPV voltage display ground is going through the throttle ground wire. The voltage display works in door well but difficult to read outdoor some times.

It is worth mentioning that Huffy Oslo cadence sensor is integrated one. Fix-position sensor and rotate magnetic points are inside plastic casing similar to one found in Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/KT-V12L-Electric-Magnets-Assist-Installation/dp/B09HJYCGK8/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2OERELAEUDCMP&keywords=KT-V12L&qid=1667854808&sprefix=ebike+cadence+sensor%2Caps%2C103&sr=8-3

And product usage guide line saying that "Parameters: If the magnetic dot does not work, you need to adjust the parameters of the display (adjust according to the correct parameters in the display manual). If you are using a KT display of the same series, please adjust the parameters from C1 to 7", after change KT-LCD display setting, KT-controller is able to pick up Huffy Oslo cadence sensor. If you using KT controller but paired/connected KT display cannot change that parameter, then you have to replace Huffy Oslo's cadence sensor with one bundled with the controller.

 

[MaKlounkee]

Thanks for all the responses. My throttle came from Amazon and since it's the holiday season, I can return as late as January 31st.

Gromike's endorsement of the whole new controller option is looking appealing. I wonder how cleanly and robustly I'd be able to mount the new cadence sensor and magnet wheel. Surely won't have the fit of the OEM parts but there's always superglue and duct tape.

I hope to find time to work on the bike soon.

 

[harryS]

Nice price on the walmart controller, but for the effort involved, get a better display. The 880 is only three PAS levels, and you lose a lot of flexibility including perhaps, the ability to read the Huffy PAS sensor, as well as a speedometer, the wattage being used (some models) and your actual battery voltage (some models).
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As for cadence sensors, the integrated ones just slip over the pedal axle, but you need a $10 crank puller to do that. The two part units are a pain to install. You have to extract the axle with another special bike tool iof you're going to fit them under the bearing cones as intended.

 

[tomjasz]

Agreed on the 880. I’ve had problems with that chintzy display on several buddies bikes.

All Split ring 12 magnet here.

KT D12​

 

[gromike]

I'm about to do a controller swap on my second Oslo. They were so cheap I just had to buy two!

Yeah, the Walmart kit for 50 bucks has a basic display, but in keeping with the ethos of the "best" cheap ebike I'm spending as little as possible on this little bike.
On my first swap I jury rigged the kit's cadence sensor. It kinda works. This time I'll use the bike's installed sensor. I bought a connector kit so I'll be able to plug it in. And if I want a good pedal assist, a good sensor is critical. And a display with more control would be nice. Oh well.

Truthfully, I pretty much run it on throttle and pedal, if needed, for an extra kick. Short hops, it's cool. Any distance, my pedal bike is faster.

 

[gromike]

Installed the new controller. The connector kit I bought was the wrong stuff. So I cut the needed connectors off the old controller, and did a sex change to the brake and the Huffy's cadence sensor inputs. It all works except for the PAS. The wire colors were different on the Huffy's cadence sensor connector from the Kt controller's connector. I guessed wrong, maybe, in the wires I hooked up.

I love the thumb throttle, though. With the Kt controller you get a full 250 watt rear hub motor folder. Woohoo!

 

[harryS]

Installed the new controller. The connector kit I bought was the wrong stuff. So I cut the needed connectors off the old controller, and did a sex change to the brake and the Huffy's cadence sensor inputs. It all works except for the PAS. The wire colors were different on the Huffy's cadence sensor connector from the Kt controller's connector. I guessed wrong, maybe, in the wires I hooked up.

I love the thumb throttle, though. With the Kt controller you get a full 250 watt rear hub motor folder. Woohoo!

To use the Huffy PAS sensor with a KT controller, after you get the wires correct, you have to try different settings in the LCD settings, That was discussed earlier in these posts. Without an LCD that does this, you'll have to buy a different 5 or 8 magnet sensor.
I.
I had the same problem with the Huffy sensor on my 20A KT controller, and I didn't remember to try the settings. I had an extra sensor, so I put that one in.

 

[gromike]

Thanks for the information harry. Though I'll probably just put on the kit's cadence sensor, after I get a BB tool.

I am of the opinion now that a twist grip throttle with no PAS would work really well with this bike, at least for the riding I do. Not a bike for any distance (I choose another two wheel tool for that), but it could be the ultimate bar hopper.

The pedals add some more "umph" to that 250w motor and make it all easy. It's kind of remarkable what you can do with a small nimble bike and a bit of e-power.

 

[fubag]

Left battery on charger for 24 hours, and its still stone dead. Contacted Huffy by email about the battery issue and the broken rack and fender. Like I said the battery switch was ON when I took bike out of the box, may have been months in that box in the on position. They got back to me quickly with just one sentence “Send us photos of the damage” …….sent them photos, just waiting for reply from Huffy.

Ugh haven't ridden in about 6 weeks and went to check the battery and it's completely dead; no lights either was left in the bike but in the off position; was working fine before but trying to charge it the charger lights up green like Steve mentioned and the battery still has no lights; tried reinstalling it to check and nothing works; wtf happened!? I've only had the bike for 7 weeks is the battery that unreliable?

 

[SteveProvRI]

Ugh haven't ridden in about 6 weeks and went to check the battery and it's completely dead; no lights either was left in the bike but in the off position; was working fine before but trying to charge it the charger lights up green like Steve mentioned and the battery still has no lights; tried reinstalling it to check and nothing works; wtf happened!? I've only had the bike for 7 weeks is the battery that unreliable?

Never got mine to work, but Huffy customer service did come through for me. They sent me a new battery last week. Took almost a month to get the replacement. So far so good with new battery, and I have been very pleased with Huffy customer service so far as well.

 

[fubag]

does anyone want or need a spare brand new 36V battery for the huffy oslo? i had reached out to have it replaced but then ended up returning the bike back to the retailor I bought it from; basically brand new still in the box from Huffy just have to pay whatever shipping to your location; im based in SoCal, thanks

*edit gromike graciously has taken it off my hands lol