Thudbuster vs Kinekt seat posts

[Fast n' Furious]

You say "Kinekt has scrubbed all mention of the XL2 post itself off of the USA site."
KINEKT's website says (click yourself and look) "PLEASE NOTE: We use 3 different spring lengths. The UPPER springs are all the same size ( 1.5" ). The LOWER springs are different depending on your model (All Bodyfloat, 2.1 or LR models use 1.75" springs). ( All XL2 and XR models use the 2" springs)."
You say "I managed to track down the Amazon page for the XL2 via its reviews. 240-320 lbs for USA market".
Surely, except you did say you changed to an orange spring I'd thought?
So you are at the next level past the correct 270 - 320lb rating (not 240lbs).
For 230 - 280lbs, correct springs are Purple Red.
I've read enough of your posts to be certain you're a reliable source of information, so trying to wrap my head around this.

I know I have Pea-Green striped springs - that logically, I've assumed are Yellow. Hmmmmmmm .
Could you have Red springs - like in my photo ? Did they change the color code ?
If the other's Purple, you're perfect for a 250lb rider. If it's Black, you're in the 270 - 320lb range.
Anecdotally, nowadays the (HD Model) XR comes with Black/ Yellow (200 - 240lbs) rating springs installed, a Red lower and a spare Purple upper. Thus, one can set the range between 170lbs and 320lbs - for a bicycle. Subtract 10 - 20lbs for more upright seating styles - like ebikes.
That's their current, most up to date information.
The range has not changed, except for accommodating upright riders. The bicycle ratings are the same as 2.5 years ago.
The springs are universal between the two models.

 

[m@Robertson]

To make sure that hair didn't get split, I made sure to say Kinekt has scrubbed all mention of the XL2 post itself. Yes if you dig you can find a page buried in the spare parts area (and same page in Accessories) where they list the spring in the dropdown. But the description of the post is gone, as is its page. Nothing in the tech specs and there is no archive. I had to google up an old page from their Italian web site to find it, and go thru Amazon's review links to find the post for sale page there.

Look at the picture of my XL2. All-orange spring. Look at the picture I showed of the XL2 both on Kinekt's Italian site and on Amazon. All orange spring. As I said, Kinekt has one spring for this post, its orange as you can see and as Kinekt's own specs show in the links I provided. those springs put that product in the ballpark of 240-320 lbs. The springs you are referencing and the one surviving reference you mention to the XL2 show grey springs with stripes on them. Different animals to the bright orange ones you can see. Again, what I've got doesn't apply to the reference materials you are accessing now.

I didn't say I had upgraded my spring. Here's what I did say:

... I am riding on the no-longer-sold Kinekt XL variant. Note it uses the gray small and orange large springs. Someone above noted above that orange was not available and this is incorrect. Orange was available after consultation with Kinekt as an option (I have spoken to them a number of times), and on the XL models which had I think a 250-320 lb weight range, orange was the default shipped with the post.

I should have said I was riding on the XL2 and not the XL, but I needed to do the digging we see here to remember the '2' part. Now that we are going from 1000 ft to magnified view, it may be that the orange option is the grey-with-orange-stripe spring that is not listed for, but is an upgrade to the stem. I would have to open one up and look but the spring I am using there came from Kinekt telling me to buy it. At least at the time, it was sold solely as a seatpost spring and not an option for the stem.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

To make sure that hair didn't get split, I made sure to say Kinekt has scrubbed all mention of the XL2 post itself. Yes if you dig you can find a page buried in the spare parts area (and same page in Accessories) where they list the spring in the dropdown. But the description of the post is gone, as is its page. Nothing in the tech specs and there is no archive. I had to google up an old page from their Italian web site to find it, and go thru Amazon's review links to find the post for sale page there.

Look at the picture of my XL2. All-orange spring. Look at the picture I showed of the XL2 both on Kinekt's Italian site and on Amazon. All orange spring. As I said, Kinekt has one spring for this post, its orange as you can see and as Kinekt's own specs show in the links I provided. those springs put that product in the ballpark of 240-320 lbs. The springs you are referencing and the one surviving reference you mention to the XL2 show grey springs with stripes on them. Different animals to the bright orange ones you can see. Again, what I've got doesn't apply to the reference materials you are accessing now.

I didn't say I had upgraded my spring. Here's what I did say:



I should have said I was riding on the XL2 and not the XL, but I needed to do the digging we see here to remember the '2' part. Now that we are going from 1000 ft to magnified view, it may be that the orange option is the grey-with-orange-stripe spring that is not listed for, but is an upgrade to the stem. I would have to open one up and look but the spring I am using there came from Kinekt telling me to buy it. At least at the time, it was sold solely as a seatpost spring and not an option for the stem.

The springs are all Grey with the color stripe for 2 years I know of. Why I said you have the cool one. I've been watching ebay for a year for some original solid color Purple, and or Black springs. I remember seeing them on the site. Even the upgrades were shown as solid color, but when I bought they were Grey with the color stripe. I was like, 'How boring' and a solid impression in my feeble mind.
The Red lower I have appears to be 56mm wire about 51mm and change long.
But get this. The uppers (all the same length on all models K says) are 42mm for the Red and 34mm for Purple.
So I checked the longer, Red LR lower, same 42mm diameter. I check the longer, Purple LR upper. Again 34mm.
I sent Cirrus my broken - out of warranty - LR. The employee handling the matter was very nice, knowledgeable about the product and detail oriented. Regardless - so I didn't mention it - that I was out of the country for a few months before installing, I assumed I'd have to pay.
I came down with covid so it was another month before I sent the post to them. I didn't hear back for a month, so I sent an e. 'My luck they never got it', I'm thinking.
Apparently the employee had moved on and they had thought it was sent, but now they had realized the error and sent me a new seat.
I'd no idea the matter had been adjudicated - let alone a verdict in my favor granted.
So the post arrived - not quite myself when I was packing the predecessor, I kept the stock bolt and sent my adjuster &^%$.
It seemed fine and had a bunch (more) springs. This being No 3 and I ordered another set for the LR, my springs runneth over.
I'm selling the bike it's on, so the new KINEKT may go separately. Betcha I get my legacy price and break even, so the depreciation on the bike is less painful.
Anyway, I go to set it up and I notice it look ... weird? That hump on the outer casing after the scale? I check invoice closely, it's an XR.
I'm not using a post that's (minimum) rated at 170lbs.
So I guess my point is: trustworthy professional folks get things incorrect, but things often work out better than we have any right to expect.
My new bike has a nice LR.

Rides like a dream!

Fn'F

 

[6zfshdb]

I had an incident with my Redshift suspension seatpost recently. It's not significant enough to post in it's own thread so I thought I would mention it here.

I was preparing for a ride and accidentally bumped the adjustable end cap of the post against the step bumper of my pickup truck. The temp was quite cold and the cap shattered into hundreds of pieces! The spring mechanism shot out of the post and the parts scattered all over. I was able to recover the internal parts but the cap broke into too many pieces to pick up. Fortunately, I had my Kinekt post as a spare so it didn't spoil the ride.

It was my fault and I'm sure it was just a fluke accident. The plastic was probably brittle from the cold and it took quite an impact. I called Redshift and they supplied a replacement cap.

It's just something to be aware of, not a reason to avoid the otherwise great seat post. As a precaution, I now put a 1" vinyl end cap on the post for protection when it's not on the bike.

 

[m@Robertson]

I now put a 1" vinyl end cap on the post for protection when it's not on the bike.

Is it an option to permanently affix the post into the bike, in one position, so you don't have to worry about this? You'd be trading that issue for a new one: anti theft. But faced with that I did the dual post clamp and seat leash I posted about earlier in this thread, and have never lost a post (probably a gooder idea to swap the post socket caps with Torx versions). My Bullitt just turned 2 years old this month and I've been parking it outside at stores throughout that time. Which is not exactly a scientific observation I know...

Since I posted last in this thread I tried the advice @Alaskan gave on the suspension preload. I got a little benefit out of it. As I tried to dial out the fast-cadence pogo effect, I quickly reached a point where the spring was bottoming out against itself, which was a no-go. However I was able to keep an extra turn or two of preload to lessen the effect noticeably. If I were to guess, I'd say the alloy frame of my bike - which is remarkably stiff for a bakfiets - is still more springy than a traditional 2-triangle bike frame. That extra movement is enough to overwhelm the Kinekt post's mechanism despite my being well under its weight limit. I am building another of these bikes shortly and there is a Thud LT waiting on the shelf for it. We'll see if it does the trouble-free job it does on my Surly longtail.

 

[6zfshdb]

Is it an option to permanently affix the post into the bike, in one position, so you don't have to worry about this? You'd be trading that issue for a new one: anti theft. But faced with that I did the dual post clamp and seat leash I posted about earlier in this thread, and have never lost a post (probably a gooder idea to swap the post socket caps with Torx versions). My Bullitt just turned 2 years old this month and I've been parking it outside at stores throughout that time. Which is not exactly a scientific observation I know...

Since I posted last in this thread I tried the advice @Alaskan gave on the suspension preload. I got a little benefit out of it. As I tried to dial out the fast-cadence pogo effect, I quickly reached a point where the spring was bottoming out against itself, which was a no-go. However I was able to keep an extra turn or two of preload to lessen the effect noticeably. If I were to guess, I'd say the alloy frame of my bike - which is remarkably stiff for a bakfiets - is still more springy than a traditional 2-triangle bike frame. That extra movement is enough to overwhelm the Kinekt post's mechanism despite my being well under its weight limit. I am building another of these bikes shortly and there is a Thud LT waiting on the shelf for it. We'll see if it does the trouble-free job it does on my Surly longtail.

I rarely if ever leave my bike unattended, so theft isn't a big issue for me. I do swap between my Redshift, Kinekt and Thudbuster LT posts frequently though. It depends on what type of riding I'm doing. Sometimes, I'll swap posts mid ride to lessen "buttitis". Each post has a different feel and it's amazing how much of an improvement a change can make to my riding comfort.

 

[CSH]

I rarely if ever leave my bike unattended, so theft isn't a big issue for me. I do swap between my Redshift, Kinekt and Thudbuster LT posts frequently though. It depends on what type of riding I'm doing. Sometimes, I'll swap posts mid ride to lessen "buttitis". Each post has a different feel and it's amazing how much of an improvement a change can make to my riding comfort.

Hello 6zfshdb !
You are probably the best person for insight on this, since you have several seat posts.
Can you advise me as to which (Thudbuster LT or Kinekt) would give me the most "Zero Gravity" / "Floating" like feel.
I weigh 210 (if that helps)
I just want to make my bike more of a Cadillac like, neighborhood cruse, ride.
Thanks
CSH

 

[AHicks]

Is it an option to permanently affix the post into the bike, in one position, so you don't have to worry about this? You'd be trading that issue for a new one: anti theft. But faced with that I did the dual post clamp and seat leash I posted about earlier in this thread, and have never lost a post (probably a gooder idea to swap the post socket caps with Torx versions). My Bullitt just turned 2 years old this month and I've been parking it outside at stores throughout that time. Which is not exactly a scientific observation I know...

Since I posted last in this thread I tried the advice @Alaskan gave on the suspension preload. I got a little benefit out of it. As I tried to dial out the fast-cadence pogo effect, I quickly reached a point where the spring was bottoming out against itself, which was a no-go. However I was able to keep an extra turn or two of preload to lessen the effect noticeably. If I were to guess, I'd say the alloy frame of my bike - which is remarkably stiff for a bakfiets - is still more springy than a traditional 2-triangle bike frame. That extra movement is enough to overwhelm the Kinekt post's mechanism despite my being well under its weight limit. I am building another of these bikes shortly and there is a Thud LT waiting on the shelf for it. We'll see if it does the trouble-free job it does on my Surly longtail.

I would note that an occasional bottoming is a good thing! That's part of suspension 101, as it let's you know the whole 100% of suspension travel is being used. FAR too many set their suspensions (any suspension) so they never bottom. To them bottoming is a no-no. If it never bottoms, quite possibly they are riding around on just the top half of the available travel, loosing out on half of the very expensive travel they paid for.

Point being, "occasional" bottoming is key. My own thought is if it bottoms on an a hard hit once or twice a ride, it's working as designed 99% of the time.... FWIW, -Al

 

[6zfshdb]

Hello 6zfshdb !
You are probably the best person for insight on this, since you have several seat posts.
Can you advise me as to which (Thudbuster LT or Kinekt) would give me the most "Zero Gravity" / "Floating" like feel.
I weigh 210 (if that helps)
I just want to make my bike more of a Cadillac like, neighborhood cruse, ride.
Thanks
CSH

I hesitate to advise you on this since seat comfort is a very subjective thing and varies greatly from one rider to another. What some like, others don't.

All I can say is, in my opinion, the Thudbuster LT gives the closest thing to a float like feeling. It has a full 3" of travel which is around twice that of the Kinekt and Redshift posts. Equipped with the proper elastomer, it can be adjusted so your body weight compresses the mechanism about a third to a half of it's travel. That leaves between 1.5 and 2" of travel to absorb shock.

Elastomer suspension gives a different feel than spring loaded mechanisms. IMO, they are better at absorbing high frequency vibration. Elastomers can be more difficult to fine tune however since they need to be replaced to make adjustments. Spring loaded posts are adjusted by adding & removing springs or simply by turning an adjustment screw.

Another down side is, the Thudbuster LT produces more pedal bob or bounce than the others. It also requires almost 5.5" of seat rail to seat tube clearance, considerably more than the Kinekt or Redshift. Check your measurements before buying.

Good luck.

 

[Marcela]

Hello 6zfshdb !
You are probably the best person for insight on this, since you have several seat posts.
Can you advise me as to which (Thudbuster LT or Kinekt) would give me the most "Zero Gravity" / "Floating" like feel.
I weigh 210 (if that helps)
I just want to make my bike more of a Cadillac like, neighborhood cruse, ride.
Thanks
CSH

I had my Como set up with the thudbuster and a Brooks B67 saddle which is sprung also. I weigh 180#, had a 7 and 9 rubber on the seat, 1 softest, 9 hardest. It gave me the best ride and I'd still be using it but the seat moved me back because of the attachment rails and I didn't want the extra lean. But that setting with my weight gave a really nice soft ride.

 

[m@Robertson]

Point being, "occasional" bottoming is key. My own thought is if it bottoms on an a hard hit once or twice a ride, it's working as designed 99% of the time.... FWIW, -Al

Thats a bit less frequent than I am at now. I'm at maybe a half dozen per ride where a ride is about 15 miles.

All I can say is, in my opinion, the Thudbuster LT gives the closest thing to a float like feeling.

Thats really interesting as I'd give exactly the opposite advice. I think this further solidifies the fact that there is a lot of variance here. Not only subjective but based on the bike itself. An alloy short-tube mtb frame versus a steel longtail for instance. Will give entirely different baselines in addition to the rider themselves.

For me, I'd say the Kinekt is much more of an 'isolation' type device, which is also how they advertise it - not so much as a suspension post but a tool that isolates the rider from road vibration. Their butt-level video showing very high frequency motion comes to mind immediately as illustrating this difference. My experience comes from one Kinekt on a daily driver that just crossed two years of use, vs. five Thud LTs that I rode almost exclusively on before this, for I think ... five years? I actually mixed in some Thud STs in there for the first couple of years and they all got sold off once I discovered the improved efficacy of the LT.

So to @CSH take that for whatever its worth as none of us have your butt, or your bike. You just need to pick a lane and hope for the best. My advice would be to go with a Thud if for no other reason than they are very good products that don't cost the kind of money a Kinekt does and provide a great result for that lesser expense.

Another down side is, the Thudbuster LT produces more pedal bob or bounce than the others.

Hah again I'd go in the opposite direction on this, although I can't explain how that happens. My Kinekt on paper has a max rider weight of 320 lbs. My Thuds have all been upgraded to the max-hardness elastomer (elastomers plural as some of them are the old design) and that means they are at the max rider weight of 250 lbs. And I weigh 250 lbs. So on paper the Kinekt should be way under its capacity and the Thud right at the redline... except ridingwise, it hasn't worked out that way. The Thud is just fine and not compressing overmuch (worth noting: I use them on the street or beach sand. No singletrack or drops which keeps me from really pushing them).

In a month or so I will have two effectively identical bikes, one with a Thud LT and one with a Kinekt. At that point I'll be able to zero out the effects of the bike and frame and report on the posts themselves. But thats not today.

 

[6zfshdb]

I actually mixed in some Thud STs in there for the first couple of years and they all got sold off once I discovered the improved efficacy of the LT.

I did exactly the same. I had 3 Thud ST's on my trek conventional MTB's and swapped two of them for the LT's. Two went to eBay but I still have the third kicking around here somewhere.

The pedal bob definitely varies with different bikes. It seems to be less of an issue with bikes that have the bottom bracket farther forward of the seat tube.

 

[CSH]

Thats a bit less frequent than I am at now. I'm at maybe a half dozen per ride where a ride is about 15 miles.

Thats really interesting as I'd give exactly the opposite advice. I think this further solidifies the fact that there is a lot of variance here. Not only subjective but based on the bike itself. An alloy short-tube mtb frame versus a steel longtail for instance. Will give entirely different baselines in addition to the rider themselves.

For me, I'd say the Kinekt is much more of an 'isolation' type device, which is also how they advertise it - not so much as a suspension post but a tool that isolates the rider from road vibration. Their butt-level video showing very high frequency motion comes to mind immediately as illustrating this difference. My experience comes from one Kinekt on a daily driver that just crossed two years of use, vs. five Thud LTs that I rode almost exclusively on before this, for I think ... five years? I actually mixed in some Thud STs in there for the first couple of years and they all got sold off once I discovered the improved efficacy of the LT.

So to @CSH take that for whatever its worth as none of us have your butt, or your bike. You just need to pick a lane and hope for the best. My advice would be to go with a Thud if for no other reason than they are very good products that don't cost the kind of money a Kinekt does and provide a great result for that lesser expense.

Hah again I'd go in the opposite direction on this, although I can't explain how that happens. My Kinekt on paper has a max rider weight of 320 lbs. My Thuds have all been upgraded to the max-hardness elastomer (elastomers plural as some of them are the old design) and that means they are at the max rider weight of 250 lbs. And I weigh 250 lbs. So on paper the Kinekt should be way under its capacity and the Thud right at the redline... except ridingwise, it hasn't worked out that way. The Thud is just fine and not compressing overmuch (worth noting: I use them on the street or beach sand. No singletrack or drops which keeps me from really pushing them).

In a month or so I will have two effectively identical bikes, one with a Thud LT and one with a Kinekt. At that point I'll be able to zero out the effects of the bike and frame and report on the posts themselves. But thats not today.

Well, Due to a few factors, (local availability, cost, and a roll of the dice), I went ahead and got the Thudbuster LT, and a better Seat then the Stock one on my Evelo Omega.
Upon my first 12 mile test ride today, I will say this:
Soooo Much Smother !
It is not "Bouncy" at all.
As I approached potentially jarring bumps in the road, and my brain braced for the usual jolt............... NOTHING !
Birds chirping........ the breeze blowing, and nothing but Smooth sailing over the bumps.
I mean it was kinda weird not feeling the rough terrain I just went over, the way I usually experience it.
All that being said......... I still have not felt the Kinekt seat post, so I have no comparison to give in that regard. But for the Money I think I will stay with the TBLT.
CSH out....!

 

[Fast n' Furious]

RE: Pedal bob. "It seems to be less of an issue with bikes that have the bottom bracket farther forward of the seat".
I found the opposite true and reasoned: at some point my force is in the direction of travel just on that one side (action/ reaction).
Mass/ Velocity/ Impact equation indicates as velocity increases, force is multiplied. It's like being on *the wrong side of a Hurricane.
Meanwhile, the other side suddenly reverts to zero countering effect. "The Old Double Whammy"
When I weighed 170lbs, I'd easily leg press sets of 450.
For a 250lb fellow in decent shape that's around 650lbs + 250lbs of weight = 900lbs of sudden force using 'mass times velocity squared', then multiplied by any other like momentum in concert - of pulsing torque, back and forth. Okay, I'll give him 800lbs of force but hey, I didn't mention my psyched up max lifts and that's their game.
The frequency of the bounce is a symptom of what's already taken place.
Such folks are just too damn powerful.
-
In my experience banging any metal parts together with hundreds of lbs of force is just a terrible idea, so bottoming a KINEKT is abusive. Like banging back and forth in parking spaces to find your distance
If the device is out of range - either too tight or too loose (@2.5 - 3.5 degrees) no matter how you adjust, consider using the chart to customize your springs to your (honest) weight as close to median as possible.

FnF

* the winds spiral counterclockwise around the storm’s center in addition to its forward movement. So, as the storm moves forward, the winds are moving in the same direction and therefore their speeds are accelerated.
ie: if a storm's moving north at 30 mph and has wind speeds of 100 mph, then the storm will produce winds of 130 mph on the right, dirty side. On the left side, winds move in the opposite direction of the storm's movement, so they'll be slower around 70 mph.

 

[6zfshdb]

RE: Pedal bob. "It seems to be less of an issue with bikes that have the bottom bracket farther forward of the seat".
I found the opposite true and reasoned: at some point my force is in the direction of travel just on that one side (action/ reaction).
Mass/ Velocity/ Impact equation indicates as velocity increases, force is multiplied. It's like being on *the wrong side of a Hurricane.
Meanwhile, the other side suddenly reverts to zero countering effect. "The Old Double Whammy"
When I weighed 170lbs, I'd easily leg press sets of 450.
For a 250lb fellow in decent shape that's around 650lbs + 250lbs of weight = 900lbs of sudden force using 'mass times velocity squared', then multiplied by any other like momentum in concert - of pulsing torque, back and forth. Okay, I'll give him 800lbs of force but hey, I didn't mention my psyched up max lifts and that's their game.
The frequency of the bounce is a symptom of what's already taken place.
Such folks are just too damn powerful.

Much of the pedal bob issue depends on the rider's pedaling style. In my case, when I pedal a bike with the bottom bracket in a more forward position, more of the force it directed forward and not downward. When I pedal with more downward force, it tends to lift my butt off the seat which allows the suspension to rise. In the case of the Thud LT, this is often an inch or more. When my weight again compresses the suspension, I get pedal strike or bob. I can use a stronger elastomer in the Thud to lessen the static compression but that reduces the float effect.

IMO, the reason the bob issue is less noticeable with the Redshift and Kinekt posts is both have just 1.5" of travel. The Thud LT has 3.

Again, this is totally dependent on the individual rider and I'm not surprised at the variation in the experience of others.

 

[m@Robertson]

Birds chirping........ the breeze blowing, and nothing but Smooth sailing over the bumps.

My experience was very different... but just as positive. I literally couldn't tell the difference from using a Thud ST (at the time... I started using suspension posts with them) and a plain solid seatpost during the ride. BUT the lower back pain that had been dogging me after my every ride immediately disappeared. And never, ever came back. I got started on the search for more comfortable seating when - as a consequence of old age, I am sure - I started getting chronic lower back pain that I eventually traced to riding (if I took a few days off, pain receded. Go ride and boom its back in spades). Standardizing on a suspension post of some kind, and a good quality saddle that also gave firm padding, and good shape for pedaling... completely eliminated saddle discomfort in butt, inside of my thighs and lower back.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Much of the pedal bob issue depends on the rider's pedaling style. In my case, when I pedal a bike with the bottom bracket in a more forward position, more of the force it directed forward and not downward. When I pedal with more downward force, it tends to lift my butt off the seat which allows the suspension to rise. In the case of the Thud LT, this is often an inch or more. When my weight again compresses the suspension, I get pedal strike or bob. I can use a stronger elastomer in the Thud to lessen the static compression but that reduces the float effect.

IMO, the reason the bob issue is less noticeable with the Redshift and Kinekt posts is both have just 1.5" of travel. The Thud LT has 3.

Again, this is totally dependent on the individual rider and I'm not surprised at the variation in the experience of others.

I'd expect longer travel to be irrelevant, but for additional leverage exerting torque one direction - creating a reaction in the other.
My (100nm) rear-hub never bobs, but the (160 - +200nm) WattWagon mid-drive will - in 'L2' 'Economy mode', and up, and both machines have similar geometry.
Again, to my thinking - not my uneducated opinion, physics - that's the outcome of force, 'action/ reaction' - not the geometry - is a symptom of it's application - regardless you are standing on your head in outer space.
I can't think of a way high powered eBikes (or very powerful riders) can evade 'oscillation' on a vertical plane.
Stands to reason it'll be more pronounced with torque sensors (pulsing more frequent sample's of input) than cadence types.
-
The definitive test's the effect when off the saddle and pumping hard.
If the machine oscillates - lowering one side, bouncing back and lowering the other - it implies the post, designed to cope with terrain - not oscillations generated by user torque - is unable (as rationally expected) to cure physics, but it will try.
On a smooth surface maybe even mute 'user input' rhythm a bit. And when the force exceeds KINEKT's absorption rate (not 'travel distance') the problems begin ('oh, it's you 'Bob!') as it's utility parameters are overcome.
Read: Can't help with contrary, multiple pulse chaos - or simply: brutal beast's cannot expect dainty treatment - no matter their Bank Accounts.
Their recent video say's KINEKT was "designed around the idea of isolating the driver from bumps and vibrations in the road that get transmitted through the bike".
The video goes on to predicate these effects are "attained by using the exact right spring rates", that "a spring rate change can also help filter out unwanted movement while pedaling ...." and stresses riding position alters spring-rate requirements.
I had watched all the old vids, but a 'rain-wimp (I'm real glad, but will it please STOP for a minute), not into cleaning my fat meats and titanium', while twiddling my thumbs I checked out the new vids too.
-
LSS for me:
Out-of-the-box it was 'okay', but always a bit too soft, too hard, too much, or little suspension effect.
Dialing the springs in to my weight (leaning to the light side) made the difference for me.
Ordering the adjuster bolt (must have), I included 'the usual suspect' springs.
Watching (the older) vid, RE: how to take it apart - while I'm doing it (and yes he forgot to tell you to take one of the screws out), I 'got it'.
It struck me, he (himself) was changing to lighter springs than the chart indicated?
People repairing bikes for years might snicker, but these're new experiences for me.
Thing makes me snicker, the newest vids succinctly explain every issue raised ???
Ride best spots is between upright and road-bike.
For me, that's somewhat to do with using Jones Loop H Bars.
I could decrease the head-clamp length, but tend to ride on the pedals, balanced between my hands and butt.
Naturally: For 'long haul' work, a more forward position's advantageous.
For 'active, city duty', more upright.
Heavy as it is, but for stupendous performance I'd a' dumped it in a second.
E=mc2 certainly won't change.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

I would note that an occasional bottoming is a good thing! That's part of suspension 101, as it let's you know the whole 100% of suspension travel is being used. FAR too many set their suspensions (any suspension) so they never bottom. To them bottoming is a no-no. If it never bottoms, quite possibly they are riding around on just the top half of the available travel, loosing out on half of the very expensive travel they paid for.

Point being, "occasional" bottoming is key. My own thought is if it bottoms on an a hard hit once or twice a ride, it's working as designed 99% of the time.... FWIW, -Al

'Bottoming' is key to notifying you have the wrong rate springs installed for your 'style' and 'weight'.
Terminal impact's where something has to give cannot be a 'Good Thing' - it must take a toll on the device.
-
A 235grain .45 Long Colt, moving at 1200fps generates +2000ft lbs. of terminal impact - at 100yds.
Basically, mass times velocity squared = impact force and I knock down one ton, steel targets with a little piece of lead - at 100yds.
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Currently, I run springs 'overly light' (per company basic recommendations) and NEVER bottom. If I did I'd immediately install a more suitable combination.
You can't 'adjust out' having the wrong springs installed.

The closer you are to 'upright', the less benefits. 'Surgical attachment' to a saddle greatly increases 'mass' = impact.
Contrariwise, as the center of gravity becomes more balanced between bars and saddle, a slight shift forward countering 'hits' the fork telegraphs becomes intuitive.
An interactive device, the KINEKT doesn't have to be solely reactionary.
Ongoing repetitious impact - literally a destructive analysis technique - is a real testament to the strength.
When it fails, it'll be at the tube juncture where it's pressed together.
Same's true for your ford pickup. 1/2ton springs with a 1.5 tons in the bed - never mind the bottoming out.
What could possibly go wrong? It's a good thing ???

FnF

 

[kevinmccune]

RE: Pedal bob. "It seems to be less of an issue with bikes that have the bottom bracket farther forward of the seat".
I found the opposite true and reasoned: at some point my force is in the direction of travel just on that one side (action/ reaction).
Mass/ Velocity/ Impact equation indicates as velocity increases, force is multiplied. It's like being on *the wrong side of a Hurricane.
Meanwhile, the other side suddenly reverts to zero countering effect. "The Old Double Whammy"
When I weighed 170lbs, I'd easily leg press sets of 450.
For a 250lb fellow in decent shape that's around 650lbs + 250lbs of weight = 900lbs of sudden force using 'mass times velocity squared', then multiplied by any other like momentum in concert - of pulsing torque, back and forth. Okay, I'll give him 800lbs of force but hey, I didn't mention my psyched up max lifts and that's their game.
The frequency of the bounce is a symptom of what's already taken place.
Such folks are just too damn powerful.
-
In my experience banging any metal parts together with hundreds of lbs of force is just a terrible idea, so bottoming a KINEKT is abusive. Like banging back and forth in parking spaces to find your distance
If the device is out of range - either too tight or too loose (@2.5 - 3.5 degrees) no matter how you adjust, consider using the chart to customize your springs to your (honest) weight as close to median as possible.

FnF

* the winds spiral counterclockwise around the storm’s center in addition to its forward movement. So, as the storm moves forward, the winds are moving in the same direction and therefore their speeds are accelerated.
ie: if a storm's moving north at 30 mph and has wind speeds of 100 mph, then the storm will produce winds of 130 mph on the right, dirty side. On the left side, winds move in the opposite direction of the storm's movement, so they'll be slower around 70 mph.

That sounds a little like what happens in a noreaster, part of the storm really intensifies.

 

[kevinmccune]

'Bottoming' is key to notifying you have the wrong rate springs installed for your 'style' and 'weight'.
Terminal impact's where something has to give cannot be a 'Good Thing' - it must take a toll on the device.
-
A 235grain .45 Long Colt, moving at 1200fps generates +2000ft lbs. of terminal impact - at 100yds.
Basically, mass times velocity squared = impact force and I knock down one ton, steel targets with a little piece of lead - at 100yds.
-
Currently, I run springs 'overly light' (per company basic recommendations) and NEVER bottom. If I did I'd immediately install a more suitable combination.
You can't 'adjust out' having the wrong springs installed.

View attachment 144497 The closer you are to 'upright', the less benefits. 'Surgical attachment' to a saddle greatly increases 'mass' = impact.
Contrariwise, as the center of gravity becomes more balanced between bars and saddle, a slight shift forward countering 'hits' the fork telegraphs becomes intuitive.
An interactive device, the KINEKT doesn't have to be solely reactionary.
Ongoing repetitious impact - literally a destructive analysis technique - is a real testament to the strength.
When it fails, it'll be at the tube juncture where it's pressed together.
Same's true for your ford pickup. 1/2ton springs with a 1.5 tons in the bed - never mind the bottoming out.
What could possibly go wrong? It's a good thing ???

FnF

Thank you about the knockdown effect,I had a joker tell me the 45 colt ACP wouldn't knock down a pain-crazed Filipino because it didn't have enough recoil that was actually the reason for the development of the 45 ACP to take out or knockdown berserkers that a 38 special wouldn't handle. I know a ACP is not a Long Colt, but the ACP had enough extra power over the 38 special to take down the ones that would keep coming