Does Anyone have experience using a suspension seat post with a sprung saddle?
- Thread starter mata2maui
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Imchud
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- USA
I also use a Thudbuster with a Brooks B67 Saddle... Love the combo, but still need to take a butt break about every 10 miles or so to get rid of the tuning fork feeling in my neathers. 
I have about 800 to 900/miles on my Brookes so I am sure it's broken in. Sometimes it is minor adjustments to the seat angle and/or height to get it so it doesn't kill my Sit-Bone.
I have about 800 to 900/miles on my Brookes so I am sure it's broken in. Sometimes it is minor adjustments to the seat angle and/or height to get it so it doesn't kill my Sit-Bone.
Imchud
Member
- Region
- USA
I also use a Thudbuster with a Brooks B67 Saddle... Love the combo, but still need to take a butt break about every 10 miles or so to get rid of the tuning fork feeling in my neathers. I have about 800 to 900/miles on my Brookes so I am sure it's broken in. Sometimes it is minor adjustments to the seat angle and/or height
I have about 800 to 900/miles on my Brookes so I am sure it's broken in. Sometimes it is minor adjustments to the seat angle and/or heightspokewrench
Active Member
- Region
- USA
Three years ago I put a suspension post and a spring seat on my Radrunner. It still rode very rough, but I was more concerned about safety. Handling was so poor that I might run off the pavement trying to make a u-turn on an empty road 18 feet wide. I'd developed severe tennis elbow trying to control the bike when I took one hand off the bar to signal. I was likely to crash, and when I crashed, I was likely to be thrown over the bars.
I began to remember what I'd once known about bicycles. The rider outweighs the bike, so it won't be stable unless he is a stable load. A rider's arms and spine form a sort of tripod to stabilize his upper body. My seat was so close to the bars that my arms (two legs of the tripod) came almost straight down. I used a layback post to move the seat eight inches aft. What a difference! I could make a u-turn on a 10-foot driveway.
Now my hands were pressing heavily on the bars. I knew why. Moving a seat aft doesn't move the rider's weight aft. He leans forward to put most of his weight over the pedals. That can mean leaning down more heavily on the bars. The solution is simple: raise the bars.
Bumps no longer jolted my torso. The seat was there to stabilize me, not to bear much weight. A bump that raised the front wheel an inch would raise the bottom bracket about half an inch. With my leg muscles as springs, the pedals would accelerate me upward. When the back wheel hit the bump, my butt would already be going up.
GIs in England in WWII found English bikes, with spartan saddles and high-pressure tires, much more comfortable than American bikes. That was largely because English seats were farther aft.
I began to remember what I'd once known about bicycles. The rider outweighs the bike, so it won't be stable unless he is a stable load. A rider's arms and spine form a sort of tripod to stabilize his upper body. My seat was so close to the bars that my arms (two legs of the tripod) came almost straight down. I used a layback post to move the seat eight inches aft. What a difference! I could make a u-turn on a 10-foot driveway.
Now my hands were pressing heavily on the bars. I knew why. Moving a seat aft doesn't move the rider's weight aft. He leans forward to put most of his weight over the pedals. That can mean leaning down more heavily on the bars. The solution is simple: raise the bars.
Bumps no longer jolted my torso. The seat was there to stabilize me, not to bear much weight. A bump that raised the front wheel an inch would raise the bottom bracket about half an inch. With my leg muscles as springs, the pedals would accelerate me upward. When the back wheel hit the bump, my butt would already be going up.
GIs in England in WWII found English bikes, with spartan saddles and high-pressure tires, much more comfortable than American bikes. That was largely because English seats were farther aft.
