Thudbuster vs Kinekt seat posts

Glad I saw this. The Gen 4 Thudbuster (your photo) came stock on my Tern GSD Gen 2. Recently, about a year into riding, it lost the ability to keep the saddle clamped. Big bumps would lodge it loose. Specs are 16NM and my Park Tool torque wrench goes up to 15NM. Pretty sure I had overtightened, as I had been swapping saddles with some frequency in the last couple of months and figured I had stripped something in the process. I swapped the Gen 4 seatpost on the GSD with my Gen 3 Thudbuster ST on my Tern Vektron (same diameter 30.9). The Gen 3 has a different seatpost clamp mechanism - the one with a single hex screw and a wheel/dial screw to adjust tilt. Anyway, the older Gen 3 is still holding up fine but my Gen 4 also wouldn't keep the saddle nose on my Vektron from tipping up - the seat tube angle is less slack or more upright on the Vektron so I thought there would be less pressure on the clamp. I also think the Gen 3 makes it much easier to adjust tilt. And yesterday, before I saw this post, I ordered a replacement clamp kit for the Gen 4 from Cane Creek. Maybe I should have just ditched it for an alternative. Sounds like the Gen 4 clamp mechanism has some issues.
I looked at getting the replacement clamp kit. But after speaking to my LBS, who advised that other users are having similar problems with the Thudbuster GT, I decided to change the suspension seat post. Hence the eeSilk+.
 
Sounds like the Gen 4 clamp mechanism has some issues.

I had to return a thudbuster LT gen 4 already because the clamp mechanism was shot. I used it for about 50 miles and had to replace it.

I would hear an awful sound sometimes when I'd hit it the wrong way. After a while it just failed, and wouldn't hold the seat.

Seems like such a simple thing not to screw up. The ability to absorb shocks is really nice though. I don't have anything to compare it to unfortunately.
 
I had the Thudbuster ST on my Riese and Müller Nevo3 GT Vario GX and found it worked OK, apart from one big problem. The saddle clamp is from side to side and I could just not get this tight enough to stop the nose of the saddle rising up. Took the fastenings out and tried a straight through stainless steel bolt and nut to no avail as it still kept moving up.
View attachment 129575

Now I’m trying the Cane Creek eeSilk+, which has a different saddle fitting. This time, the bolts are top to bottom and so far, no upward movement of the nose of the saddle.
View attachment 129574

Apart from the saddle fitting, the other difference is the length of travel. The Thudbuster is 50mm and the eeSilk is 35mm. But don’t know if I’m going to notice the difference.

So far, it is going well.
I too have a Nevo 3 and the same problem with the Thudbuster seat clamp. I redid the entire clamp and made sure I tightened to 16 newtons (quite a bit of torque); seems to be holding for now. If it doesn't, I'll probably switch to Kinekt. Seat post clamps shouldn't be rocket science.
 
I too have a Nevo 3 and the same problem with the Thudbuster seat clamp. I redid the entire clamp and made sure I tightened to 16 newtons (quite a bit of torque); seems to be holding for now. If it doesn't, I'll probably switch to Kinekt. Seat post clamps shouldn't be rocket science.
I'd though good of the TB's.
Many complaints about the same specific issue does seem amazing. Retooling is tough right now, but it's hard to believe they wouldn't see a 'clamp flaw'.
I thought '16nm seems crazy', but guess it's fairly normal.
3000+ miles, never had the KINEKT slip on the rails - set by feel @ roughly 6 - 8nm.
While my Selle Anatomica carbon rails crunched/ delaminated/ shattered (on one side at exactly the recommended torque), I saw flaws in Selle's carbon casting and finding their X1 Saddle burdened with weak points too - like those horrible copper rivets on my X1 that come over-preinstalled and stripped, making them 'unremovable' (really?) without great effort, drills and tools.
I bought USA, but was disappointed and now hoping Brooks has a better product - for that kinda cash.
Not sure 'bout the TB, but no kidding. Once properly (understood and) tuned by balancing (optional) available spring rates, my KINEKT was a dream.
I cranked the tension w/ the (optional 'must have') adjuster to a point suiting my riding style and it was 'no fiddling needed'.
I had no idea how effective it really has been, using for last 2 years or so until I removed it for service. Now, in the 'without it' universe, the unpleasant difference is glaring.
-
I surmise mine went weird because someone tried to steal it; wrenching it back and forth, hoping the post would brake loose, that (Titanium Clamp, set to 6nm) refused to fail and the post broke from the suspension part casting.
I run an ABUS Bordo 6000 Alarm Lock, I tried carefully twisting the saddle to see and yes, it defeated the alarm.
Seat theft is common in my area. Usually takes maybe 30 seconds and it's undoubtedly why we see all the 'tent-bums' pedaling (grey spray painted) e-bikes sporting $250.00 Saddles, in High Gear and obviously uncharged. Unless perhaps their 'tent chargers' went down and they have a decent income to afford that saddle, which begs the question: Why are you living in a tent on someone else's Private Property?
-
I was also impressed by Cirrus Cycles great service. Good, knowledgeable people.
My experience made such a believer outta me, another KINEKT is coming on my new machine too.

Fn'F
 
Changing staff led to a bit of mix up in paperwork misplaced, then Cirrus Cycles sent me a new post.
Nothing but great service. US Made. A product that does what it claims. Beyond the call integrity after Sales.
It gets better than this?
My new bike arrived first - old guy is busy, busy busy - then new post comes, so I look it over a bit - full sets of springs (Nice!!!) and set I aside.
Weeks later I take out to reinstall - on bike being - now being sold soon 😢 for lack of room.
Turns out it's an 'XR' 😝. Okay, no problem for me; most people like the 150lb and up size better.
'Past warranty when it broke', they could've just said 'NO'. No way I'm going to bother them about it.
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Set up my spring preference on the new machine's KINEKT. I run purple (upper) and black (lower).
Although it's pretty 'much set and forget', I'm ordering a new adjustor for the new bike.
I like the company's way of conducting business so much I'm ordering a cover as well, and buying directly from Cirrus Cycles - so they make the retail difference in these recessionary times.
A US Made product that does what it claims. Beyond the call integrity after Sales.

Works for me.

Fn'F
 
I commented in this thread early in my use of the Kinekt, and since the thread is now undead, wanted to update accordingly.

I am building a bike right now - the same type as the one that has my Kinekt on it - and after over a year of daily use decided against equipping it with a Kinekt again. The reason is - and as far as riding style goes I am a pedaler, not a throttler - at high cadence, the Kinekt will pogo on me. The Thudbuster LT does not do that.

The Kinekt is a great product. Very well made. And it is correctly described by the factory as being different from other suspension posts in that it provides more of a bump 'isolation' for the rider rather than a suspension cushion. Its response is so fast it just makes bumps go away. BUT when my legs are windmilling at about 60+ rpms, I start bouncing up and down unless i make a conscious effort to use my leg muscles to support my body and dampen out the post's tendency to do this. That ain't right.

Worth noting: I am 250 lbs and I am riding on the no-longer-sold Kinekt XL variant. Note it uses the gray small and orange large springs. Someone above noted above that orange was not available and this is incorrect. Orange was available after consultation with Kinekt as an option (I have spoken to them a number of times), and on the XL models which had I think a 250-320 lb weight range, orange was the default shipped with the post. Nowadays, Kinekt uses the same post and provides its entire weight range with spring changes... the XL I have was more heavily built than the regular posts.

For my 250 lb self, I take the Thud LT and add in the firmest of the optional elastomers. Its fine under all pedaling circumstances. I have one of the new-design LT's on my Surly and I know from that it has no quirks.

Here are a couple of pics of the installed Kinekt post. They show the post and a couple of related things that have been brought up in the thread over time.

seat_leash_bullitt.jpg
PXL_20210802_024049178.jpg

First, people were talking about the post sliding down.

My solution to this across all my bikes nowadays is to use a double post clamp. These are primarily marketed to carbon fiber seatpost owners, but they put enough grip on any post so you don't have to go and do something extreme like put 18 Nm on a poor little M5 or M6 bolt. My original need on a different bike was to overcome a frame quirk where it was a skootch larger than the advertised diameter. About half a millimeter. I needed precision calipers to nail down the culprit. Everything fit, but ride it to work and the post slid down no matter what. The dual clamp ended my suffering so well I made them the default on every bike I build. The one shown is the $40 KCNC, which was all I could find at the time. Waiting for install now is a Silverock that cost half that and is lower-profile to boot. If buying one of these, make sure it is a dual clamp that clamps the frame with one bolt and the post with another. Double-bolt clamps don't count if they are clamping just the frame.

Next is theft-proofing. The double clamp is a bit of a deterrent, but something I have been using for a lot longer is a seat leash. A short cable that is not going to stop a determined thief, but it ends the possibility of a snatch-and-grab. One end of the cable is noosed around the root of the seatstays. The other end is installed inside connection between the seat rails and the seatpost. You have to either cut the cable so you can then unbolt the seatpost, or you have to unbolt the seat from the seatpost so you can now unbolt the seatpost. this seat leash is actually sold by Kryptonite but they do not advertise it for its purpose, for some reason. You have to know why they sell a short, small 5mm cable like this.

 
Ah yes. Assembled in USA. Raises a question. I wonder which parts are US made?
Fasteners and the tubing is likely imported.
20221101_111749[1].jpg
20221101_111708[1].jpg
20221101_111652[1].jpg

The LR, w/ my spring set. Look at the different, larger bottom frame on the XR. Very nice castings.

20221101_112229[1].jpg

Working in conjunction with 4.5" tires and Mastodon fork, it creates a third form of suspension for my Hardtail.
An interesting point. Regarding Thudbusters, I couldn't locate info for this comparison thread where they are made or assembled.
It was posters here that steered me to KINEKT. Maybe some can answer that.
 
I think its a pretty safe bet they are made in China. My oldest Thud is perhaps 7 years old. I have at least 5 of them. Started out with the STs, graduated to the LT. #5 was the newest design of LT. I also have a Satori Animaris in use that I had retired for a couple years. Bought it back when they were $45. Now they are $90. I also have a PNW Coast suspension dropper. Probably the most consistent are the Thuds. The slickest is the Kinekt. If only it didn't have that one flaw, I'd pay the premium price for it. I also have I think three of the Kinekt suspension stems and they are awesome - once you upgrade them to the orange spring and add the heavy duty bumper kit.
 
I commented in this thread early in my use of the Kinekt, and since the thread is now undead, wanted to update accordingly.

I am building a bike right now - the same type as the one that has my Kinekt on it - and after over a year of daily use decided against equipping it with a Kinekt again. The reason is - and as far as riding style goes I am a pedaler, not a throttler - at high cadence, the Kinekt will pogo on me. The Thudbuster LT does not do that.

The Kinekt is a great product. Very well made. And it is correctly described by the factory as being different from other suspension posts in that it provides more of a bump 'isolation' for the rider rather than a suspension cushion. Its response is so fast it just makes bumps go away. BUT when my legs are windmilling at about 60+ rpms, I start bouncing up and down unless i make a conscious effort to use my leg muscles to support my body and dampen out the post's tendency to do this. That ain't right.

Worth noting: I am 250 lbs and I am riding on the no-longer-sold Kinekt XL variant. Note it uses the gray small and orange large springs. Someone above noted above that orange was not available and this is incorrect. Orange was available after consultation with Kinekt as an option (I have spoken to them a number of times), and on the XL models which had I think a 250-320 lb weight range, orange was the default shipped with the post. Nowadays, Kinekt uses the same post and provides its entire weight range with spring changes... the XL I have was more heavily built than the regular posts.

For my 250 lb self, I take the Thud LT and add in the firmest of the optional elastomers. Its fine under all pedaling circumstances. I have one of the new-design LT's on my Surly and I know from that it has no quirks.

Here are a couple of pics of the installed Kinekt post. They show the post and a couple of related things that have been brought up in the thread over time.

View attachment 139193
First, people were talking about the post sliding down.

My solution to this across all my bikes nowadays is to use a double post clamp. These are primarily marketed to carbon fiber seatpost owners, but they put enough grip on any post so you don't have to go and do something extreme like put 18 Nm on a poor little M5 or M6 bolt. My original need on a different bike was to overcome a frame quirk where it was a skootch larger than the advertised diameter. About half a millimeter. I needed precision calipers to nail down the culprit. Everything fit, but ride it to work and the post slid down no matter what. The dual clamp ended my suffering so well I made them the default on every bike I build. The one shown is the $40 KCNC, which was all I could find at the time. Waiting for install now is a Silverock that cost half that and is lower-profile to boot. If buying one of these, make sure it is a dual clamp that clamps the frame with one bolt and the post with another. Double-bolt clamps don't count if they are clamping just the frame.

Next is theft-proofing. The double clamp is a bit of a deterrent, but something I have been using for a lot longer is a seat leash. A short cable that is not going to stop a determined thief, but it ends the possibility of a snatch-and-grab. One end of the cable is noosed around the root of the seatstays. The other end is installed inside connection between the seat rails and the seatpost. You have to either cut the cable so you can then unbolt the seatpost, or you have to unbolt the seat from the seatpost so you can now unbolt the seatpost. this seat leash is actually sold by Kryptonite but they do not advertise it for its purpose, for some reason. You have to know why they sell a short, small 5mm cable like this.

I noticed that your preload setting looks to be around 2. Given your weight I would think a preload closer to 3 or even 3.5 would reduce or even eliminate that higher cadence bob.

As far as securing your investment, I use Helox bolt inserts on my seat post, seat clamp, stem at both the steerer tube and the handlebar. I also have hexlox axles and skewers. These prevent theft by filling the hex hole in the bolt heads with magnetic inserts that can only be removed with the accompanying keyed tool.
 
Mr R do you have a link to the dbl seat clamp? I have 1 bike (at least) that has the seat falling symptom and had no idea what I was going to,do? Thought about aluminum foil wrap…

I am not sure how this works though, the seat post is just a hair or so smaller than the hole , are the sizing of the 2 clamps that close?

Thanks
 
I commented in this thread early in my use of the Kinekt, and since the thread is now undead, wanted to update accordingly.

I am building a bike right now - the same type as the one that has my Kinekt on it - and after over a year of daily use decided against equipping it with a Kinekt again. The reason is - and as far as riding style goes I am a pedaler, not a throttler - at high cadence, the Kinekt will pogo on me. The Thudbuster LT does not do that.

The Kinekt is a great product. Very well made. And it is correctly described by the factory as being different from other suspension posts in that it provides more of a bump 'isolation' for the rider rather than a suspension cushion. Its response is so fast it just makes bumps go away. BUT when my legs are windmilling at about 60+ rpms, I start bouncing up and down unless i make a conscious effort to use my leg muscles to support my body and dampen out the post's tendency to do this. That ain't right.

Worth noting: I am 250 lbs and I am riding on the no-longer-sold Kinekt XL variant. Note it uses the gray small and orange large springs. Someone above noted above that orange was not available and this is incorrect. Orange was available after consultation with Kinekt as an option (I have spoken to them a number of times), and on the XL models which had I think a 250-320 lb weight range, orange was the default shipped with the post. Nowadays, Kinekt uses the same post and provides its entire weight range with spring changes... the XL I have was more heavily built than the regular posts.

For my 250 lb self, I take the Thud LT and add in the firmest of the optional elastomers. Its fine under all pedaling circumstances. I have one of the new-design LT's on my Surly and I know from that it has no quirks.

Here are a couple of pics of the installed Kinekt post. They show the post and a couple of related things that have been brought up in the thread over time.

View attachment 139193 View attachment 139194
First, people were talking about the post sliding down.

My solution to this across all my bikes nowadays is to use a double post clamp. These are primarily marketed to carbon fiber seatpost owners, but they put enough grip on any post so you don't have to go and do something extreme like put 18 Nm on a poor little M5 or M6 bolt. My original need on a different bike was to overcome a frame quirk where it was a skootch larger than the advertised diameter. About half a millimeter. I needed precision calipers to nail down the culprit. Everything fit, but ride it to work and the post slid down no matter what. The dual clamp ended my suffering so well I made them the default on every bike I build. The one shown is the $40 KCNC, which was all I could find at the time. Waiting for install now is a Silverock that cost half that and is lower-profile to boot. If buying one of these, make sure it is a dual clamp that clamps the frame with one bolt and the post with another. Double-bolt clamps don't count if they are clamping just the frame.

Next is theft-proofing. The double clamp is a bit of a deterrent, but something I have been using for a lot longer is a seat leash. A short cable that is not going to stop a determined thief, but it ends the possibility of a snatch-and-grab. One end of the cable is noosed around the root of the seatstays. The other end is installed inside connection between the seat rails and the seatpost. You have to either cut the cable so you can then unbolt the seatpost, or you have to unbolt the seat from the seatpost so you can now unbolt the seatpost. this seat leash is actually sold by Kryptonite but they do not advertise it for its purpose, for some reason. You have to know why they sell a short, small 5mm cable like this.

Old School cool. Near 2 years they only sell me the grey springs w/ color stripes.
Kinekt_RiderWeight_Spring_chart_800x424px_2048x2048.jpg
They sent a Red lower with the XR.
20221101_134909[1].jpg
No Orange.
(Here's their color chart) It came loaded with Black and Yellow
WattWagons included a set of Orange for the LR. My first LR came with Black/ Black and an Orange spare.
I don't ride so much with my tail planted, so prefer lighter Black Purple.
Never had a problem with my seat going down, but that's great fix - a clamp for the frame and one for the tube.
I used a 4" long shim, that is 2" lower than the frame juncture.
Nice bike. Cool colors
 
I noticed that your preload setting looks to be around 2. Given your weight I would think a preload closer to 3 or even 3.5 would reduce or even eliminate that higher cadence bob.

As far as securing your investment, I use Helox bolt inserts on my seat post, seat clamp, stem at both the steerer tube and the handlebar. I also have hexlox axles and skewers. These prevent theft by filling the hex hole in the bolt heads with magnetic inserts that can only be removed with the accompanying keyed tool.
Naturally I have just left home for a couple days and cannot just walk over and look at the setting. I do remember cranking down the preload at some point but I don't remember where it is now. Those pics are both old. Especially the one with the WTB saddle on. We'll see, and thank you for the advice.

I have stayed away from Hexlox as I have a thing about keeping my tools universal... ish. If I had my druthers I would use T25's everywhere on everything, but just before I was about to invest in a complete stainless Torx hardware upgrade (McMaster sells full boxes at reasonable prices) on this new upcoming bike, I wound up running into an issue on my brakes (Magura uses Torx) at my workshop where, for some reason, my set of star wrenches that were supposed to be there weren't. But of course I have God knows how many sets of metric hex keys all over the place, including a set permanently in the tool kit.
Mr R do you have a link to the dbl seat clamp? I have 1 bike (at least) that has the seat falling symptom and had no idea what I was going to,do? Thought about aluminum foil wrap…
Don't bother with the foil. I tried shimming with snips of the wall of an aluminum soda can but that didn't work, so foil isn't going to fare any better. Here is the KCNC. Bear in mind your seatpost diameter and seat tube external diameters both have to match whichever one of these you settle on. It comes in many different sizes so do your Amazon searching to find them all. EBay sells these too. My first one - totally different brand - came from Ebay. This particular ad sells three combinations. There are others of different sizes and colors.


This is the one I just bought for the new bike. Untested as yet but it seems to be of good quality. Its very much like the first one of these I bought.


here's the exact one I bought the first time, in fact. Looks like there are a ton of this model all over Ebay right now. But only in this size.


And here's another one I haven't seen before. Different size finally.

 
Mine lasted a week. But again, stuff happens. My 3 NCX have worked out great. Sometimes I think it'd the luck of the draw...
I noticed that your preload setting looks to be around 2. Given your weight I would think a preload closer to 3 or even 3.5 would reduce or even eliminate that higher cadence bob.

As far as securing your investment, I use Helox bolt inserts on my seat post, seat clamp, stem at both the steerer tube and the handlebar. I also have hexlox axles and skewers. These prevent theft by filling the hex hole in the bolt heads with magnetic inserts that can only be removed with the accompanying keyed tool.
He's running Black/ Orange springs. That's 310 - 360lbs Class on bicycles. 290 - 340lbs Class e-bike.
One can tighten the springs (less compliant), somewhat altering the saddle angle and decreasing travel. Or loosen (more compliant) the springs creating maximum travel etc. , changing the attitude in reverse.
Until my 'spring range' was correct vis a vis my weight, it was impossible to actually feel the device.
While settings are purely preferential, 'Purple/ Red' is factory recommended to suit "250lbs". Even running as compliant as possible, Black/ Orange springs must be stiff as a board. 2 degrees (load) is actually very stiff - on top of 'way beyond heavy' springs (with a 335lb mean).
Fully one-third out of range even at the loosest setting for a 250lb rider. No possible way to tune them correctly exists.
If you are close enough, dialing in the springs to your weight, your static point will be 1.5 -- 2 on that dial to get KINEKT's best.
Although once desired tension is set no need to change it and I left it the same for over a year, the handy dandy Control Knob made changing the tension anytime/ anywhere easy. That let me get a feel for the range in a few days, unlike the PIA hex-head type.
Twisting a knob, able to play with it.
Why bother if I know my settings? My new KINEKT's stiffer even with the now modified correct springs.
 
He's running Black/ Orange springs. That's 310 - 360lbs Class on bicycles. 290 - 340lbs Class e-bike.
Actually, no thats not correct. At least not for my post, which is a variant no longer sold by Kinekt.

If you look at the pics of my post and compare it to the other pics of current production LR / XR, you can see mine has a much larger lower spring, where the modern version has two springs of the same diameter. The XL2 version didn't stop there as its armature was different too. The orange spring on it was the default and the only one available, with a range that started at 250 lbs and topped out at I think 320 or 330 lbs. Nowadays, Kinekt has an approach that does everything with a single product running across the entire weight range and all adjustment is done with spring choice. So its easy to see why they evolved the design (the XL2 was also a more expensive option on an already expensive product).

I got the lowdown from a Kinekt engineer as I called them up and was looking for specific details on construction and later adjustment. At the time, their standard line maxed out at 260 lbs. I weighed that much and was concerned about possibly either going up or down and being right on the bubble. Kinekt recommended an XL2 model, but told me if I lost weight, I would be too light for that spring setup, and there was no way to tune it down with a lighter spring in that larger size. In the end, I seem to have wound up stuck right at 250 so changing body weight never became anything I had to worry about.

For the seatpost, at least.

Whatever Kinekt tells you today ... Ask again in a few months as they evolve their products. I upgraded the springs to the max available on my first suspension stem. A year or so later - after adding a second one and wanting a third - I called them up and explained how even their max setup wasn't cutting it. Thats when they told me yeah we know and they have this new bump stop upgrade thing, and you can now use a seat spring inside of it that really ups its capacity. Sure enough, it did and finally made that product work right for me.
 
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Regarding the seat post "slipping" issue, a note from a 300 lb rider, and hell yes, slipping IS an issue here.....

That double clamp (for carbon seat posts) in the link above does work pretty good. 2 issues I've had with it are it's not available in all sizes, and 2nd, to hold correctly the bolts must be torqued to a level where the clamp might fail (ping!!). Ask how I know....

I do have another suggestion for those struggling here. First, if you are still trying to use that cam arrangement to apply enough squeeze, toss it and replace it with a 1/4" hardened bolt. Then, if it's still slipping, consider a quality hose clamp (not the 99 cent made in China variety). Yes, hose clamp, correctly sized and placed above the existing clamp. Use a wrench to tighten it as much as you dare. Think poor man's "double" clamp like the one designed for carbon seat posts..... I'd still like to find something better, but until then, I'm getting by with this on one of my bikes....
 
I think its a pretty safe bet they are made in China. My oldest Thud is perhaps 7 years old. I have at least 5 of them. Started out with the STs, graduated to the LT. #5 was the newest design of LT. I also have a Satori Animaris in use that I had retired for a couple years. Bought it back when they were $45. Now they are $90. I also have a PNW Coast suspension dropper. Probably the most consistent are the Thuds. The slickest is the Kinekt. If only it didn't have that one flaw, I'd pay the premium price for it. I also have I think three of the Kinekt suspension stems and they are awesome - once you upgrade them to the orange spring and add the heavy duty bumper kit.
Would be likely. Energy for a foundry is cost prohibitive in the USA.
Actually, no thats not correct. At least not for my post, which is a variant no longer sold by Kinekt.

If you look at the pics of my post and compare it to the other pics of current production LR / XR, you can see mine has a much larger lower spring, where the modern version has two springs of the same diameter. The XL2 version didn't stop there as its armature was different too. The orange spring on it was the default and the only one available, with a range that started at 250 lbs and topped out at I think 320 or 330 lbs. Nowadays, Kinekt has an approach that does everything with a single product running across the entire weight range and all adjustment is done with spring choice. So its easy to see why they evolved the design (the XL2 was also a more expensive option on an already expensive product).

I got the lowdown from a Kinekt engineer as I called them up and was looking for specific details on construction and later adjustment. At the time, their standard line maxed out at 260 lbs. I weighed that much and was concerned about possibly either going up or down and being right on the bubble. Kinekt recommended an XL2 model, but told me if I lost weight, I would be too light for that spring setup, and there was no way to tune it down with a lighter spring in that larger size. In the end, I seem to have wound up stuck right at 250 so changing body weight never became anything I had to worry about.

For the seatpost, at least.

Whatever Kinekt tells you today ... Ask again in a few months as they evolve their products. I upgraded the springs to the max available on my first suspension stem. A year or so later - after adding a second one and wanting a third - I called them up and explained how even their max setup wasn't cutting it. Thats when they told me yeah we know and they have this new bump stop upgrade thing, and you can now use a seat spring inside of it that really ups its capacity. Sure enough, it did and finally made that product work right for me.
If you look at the pics of my post and compare it to the other pics of current production LR / XR, you can see mine has a much larger lower spring, "where the modern version has two springs of the same diameter."
I don't follow you.
KINEKT says: "PLEASE NOTE: We use 3 different spring lengths. The UPPER springs are all the same size ( 1.5" ). The LOWER springs are different depending on your model (All Bodyfloat, 2.1 or LR models use 1.75" springs). ( All XL2 and XR models use the 2" springs). .
20221102_184032[1].jpg

Top is the UPPER. Middle, LR and bottom XR.
Diameter, the result of thicker or thinner wire varies with spring 'color'.
20221102_185325[1].jpg

In person, the Orange upper is substantially larger diameter wire, but nowhere near as large as the XR's lower spring of the same color/ - as you can see.

FnF
 
My orange /= yours and /= current production springs. You can see that most obviously by just looking at the coloration. And your weight range of 310-to-360 bike / 290-340 ebike is completely wrong. Explaining why that is was most of the reason I did all the storytelling above. Back when the XL2 was on sale, there was no such thing as bike/ebike ratings, and even so, the range is completely different as noted. I'm certain you are correct when speaking on the Kinekt products that are on the market presently, but that info doesn't directly translate to my older XL2.

Kinekt has scrubbed all mention of the XL2 post itself off of the USA site, but I managed to find the Italian Kinekt site, which still lists them.


Rated rider weight is 105 kg to 140 kg. In Imperialist units that is 231 lbs to 309. I am guessing it was marketed then, at 230-310 lbs. I remember 250 but there's no telling whether they changed it or my memory is imperfect (surely not!).

EDIT: I managed to track down the Amazon page for the XL2 via its reviews. 240-320 lbs for USA market.

 
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