Lectric XP

I just hit 50 miles on the odometer and thought I'd share some feedback. I agree with most of the reviews on here that the XP has a few warts, such as the squeaky disk brakes. But it's everything all of the early YouTube reviews had said it would be -- great! I don't worry much about the odometer issues. I've had to adjust the brakes but other than that, it's been "plug and play" for me. I live in a rural, mountainous area. The roads I ride on are gravel roads, often with washboards and a lot of short, very steep grades, as well as some longer hills. I'd estimate that only about 20-25% of the roads are level stretches. The rest is varying degrees of hills. I don't go much over 12-16 mph on the unpaved roads. I did get the bike up to just over 28 mph on one paved downgrade, just to prove I could do it. I've also found that sticking to the slower PAS 1 & 2 allow me to "contribute" human power to the "cause," rather than just free-pedal while the motor does all the work. Plus the slower speeds allow me to enjoy the peaceful, backroads environment, rather than go blasting along, gripping the handlebars to maintain control. A couple of things I've gotten into: When I come to a stop at the end of the ride, I flip into PAS 0 as I approach where I plan to stop. I've found that the bike tends to want to "keep going" a few extra feet while the pedal sensor gets its lagging "stop" message. I've also been flipping into PAS 0 on long downgrades, because it just seems like a waste of battery power for power pedaling that always automatically kicks in if I pedal. But if I just try to coast, the power assist shuts down altogether and my cruising speed starts to really drop. So the back-and-forth between pedaling and coasting results in uneven cruising speed on the longer, level stretches. The XP does not seem to want to coast very easily, obviously due to the BFT road contact. But the occasional PAS 0 pedaling allows me to interact more with the bike, rather than just passively ride it like a moped. Obviously, it saves battery power too. And, I'm getting some exercise! I don't wear myself out on these bike trips, but always feel refreshed and energized after 5-9 miles on average. Finally, thanks to advice on here, I pay attention to the voltage level to monitor battery reserves, rather than to solely rely on the energy bar. While energy bar readings always seem to fluctuate in odd ways, I feel I get a better idea of the true state of the battery power reserve by monitoring the voltage level. All in all, I am happy with my bike. I'm sure better ones will come along in the same price range, but that's generally the nature of progress isn't it?
 
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hmm, from facebook page images, cable wrappings on these exactly like the XP
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Also, looks like there are a few in stock, lol
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Here’s an explanation on how the PAS works on our bikes:

The basic cadence sensor uses a magnet on the crank. It turns the motor ON when you start pedaling and turns it OFF when you stop pedaling. Essentially, it works like a switch. To control the boost level and speed, you must adjust the assist mode manually up and down. The advantage of this system is that it is an inexpensive way to get a form of pedal assists on the bike. The disadvantage is that the pedal assistance can sometimes feel jerky, laggy and counterintuitive. Also, if you want to pedal faster than the motor is spinning, the motor will actively work against your efforts.
Compared to the torque sensor system, the cadence sensor will just provide the assist based purely on the level assist you have selected and it will not increase or decrease the assist based on your actual pedal power. You could be pedaling very lightly or very hard and it will provide the same level of assist.


If you are in PAS 0 it’s like every bike you’ve ever ridden, manually pedaling and shifting through 7 gears.
If you are in PAS 1-5, it’s unlike every bike you’ve ever ridden.
It takes some getting used to. But I love it. I’ve been riding bikes, all kinds, for about 50 years now and this is the most fun I’ve ever had…on a bike.

You have got to think of it like this;
When in PAS 0, it’s a manually operated bike.
When in PAS 1-5, you do not have to pedal at all, just use the right hand throttle to drive the bike, and do not pedal.
Or - you can use Pedal Assist 1-5 to drive the bike, but now you do have to pedal, but at a slow and steady pace.
When using Pedal Assist, think of your left hand on the control button as your throttle, but now you have 1-5 preset speeds, as long as you are pedaling at a slow and steady rate. PAS 1 is the slowest speed and PAS 5 is the highest. It doesn’t really matter how fast you are pedaling. The bike uses the cadence sensor to sense your movement.

Just start off in PAS 1 and use whatever manual gear 1-7, lets you pedal at a slow and steady pace, for the terrain you are currently on.
After a few revolutions of the pedals the motor will kick in, depending on the sensitivity setting in the P11 menu, and the strength in the P12 menu.
It will immediately propel you faster as you continue to pedal the same slow and steady rate, you do not have to pedal faster to go faster, the motor does that. You can always manually shift the gears to pedal faster if you want, for exercising, but you do not have to.
It will start to feel weird as you are pedaling at the same rate but the motor is now propelling you faster. It will start to feel like your pedaling isn’t doing anything, like you’re freewheeling it.

If you want to go faster, don’t pedal faster, move up to PAS 2 and you will immediately go faster, despite pedaling at the same slow and steady rate, as you were with PAS 1. If you want to go still faster, again, do not pedal any more, just move up to PAS 3 and you will go faster at the same pedal rate. Continue of course to PAS 4 and 5 to go faster and faster, at the same pedal rate. And drop back through to PAS 1 to slow down. I’ve gotten to 28 mph this way on level ground, with never pedaling faster than I was at PAS 1 level when I started.

It feels unlike anything I’ve ever ridden and does take some getting used to.

Just like your right hand is on the throttle in full auto mode, think of your left hand, on the menu up/down button, as your throttle when using PAS mode. But instead of a continuous manual throttle, you will have 5 levels of preset speeds while using PAS, and can always go to PAS 0 for manual mode and to turn the motor off.

As soon as you stop pedaling, the motor turns off, so you can coast to slow down, and/or if you use the brakes the motor turns off of course.

Then just start pedaling again and the motor will kick in, if in PAS 1-5, and/or use the throttle to manually take off and have fun! I find myself frequently using the throttle to manually ‘take off’ and get started, then start pedaling. What a cool bike, I love it.
That Rattan is a very nice looking with great features, but is it really worth $500.00 more than the xp, not too sure about that.
 
What if you have to buy 2. Thats a $1,000 saving. Then you can get 3 and still have pocket change. Also there no sale taxes with the XP. You tack on the $500 plus sale tax you are well over with saving of $630.00 for each bike. The Xp is still a great value
 
What if you have to buy 2. Thats a $1,000 saving. Then you can get 3 and still have pocket change. Also there no sale taxes with the XP. You tack on the $500 plus sale tax you are well over with saving of $630.00 for each bike. The Xp is still a great value

I just checked on the Rattan website and looks like the sale is over. It was $300 off each model yesterday, so $1099 for the Pro or $1199 for the Plus, respectively making it only $100-$200 more per bike plus tax over the current XP pricing.
 
Old Biker, as I said in my previous post, the sale seems to be over now. It was $1099 with $300 off yesterday.✌
Gotcha, my bad✌️. Would have cost me $300 more. Like you said earlier also it depends on what your usage is, I like having the rack, and the fenders especially, didn't think the fenders would be a big deal but my white bike is wiped out with dirt and mud, and that's just city riding and on some paved paths, after a rain your still going to find puddles that are impossible to avoid at times.
 
Just curious, were you able to fit the bike in the trunk of your Tesla? BTW our bikes came in perfect condition and everything was tight! Happy Trails!
Unfortunately no. The bike is too wide to fit. If there was no Derailure then it would just squeek by in the Model 3 trunk. I also tried to fit it in the back seat but it was too tight of a fit for my taste. Felt like i was going to rip the seat up or the inside of the door. It would definitely fit fine in the Model X and probably the Model S since they have a hatch back style instead of a trunk.
 
I just opened mine and got it together. I didn't get my bags? Do they come in another package?
They had a delay on the bags but opted to send us the bikes now and the bags later. I think its a good decision. I'd hate to wait for the bike just because of the bags being late.
 
I installed the DNP 11-28 tooth freewheel today. I paid about $38 on Amazon but I see the same item on AliExpress for $17.

I only put a couple miles on with it but it is an improvement for sure. I am one of those that wants to feel like I am peddling, not necessarily hard but not without resistance. At least now I can go 20mph or so and feel like I am not comically spinning the pedals. I will probably upgrade the chainring to a slightly larger one at some point.

Installing the rear wheel took me 10 minutes or so. I am sure the next time will go faster but I wouldn’t want to do it on the roadside!
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Funny story, so I went to the local fort down the street today, before the rains come and as I am about to go up on the hurricane barrier, I come across an ENTIRE bus load of Amish people! They must have just been visiting the fort on a road trip somewhere..

I could feel the many stares, seeing that Amish culture doesn’t believe in modern machinery, especially an electric bike, I bet they talked about it forever on the bus! I was flying too, bout 15 mph past... I lol’d

Pics

I wish I got a pic of the crowd all staring at me but alas I did not!
 

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This big old 2018 GMC Savanna 2500 I am converting, with a pal, into a campervan. This will be what I will be hauling my XPs around in. Shore power to the people!
 

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I went to the Rattan site but the "fatbear" code did not work for either of the fat bear bikes. I like to think that I would buy one if it was available for 1000/1100 but the XP fenders and rack make it a much better deal and more usable on the "wet coast" and I can add hydraulic brakes and a different freewheel so the XP works fine for the price.
 
I installed the DNP 11-28 tooth freewheel today. I paid about $38 on Amazon but I see the same item on AliExpress for $17.

I only put a couple miles on with it but it is an improvement for sure. I am one of those that wants to feel like I am peddling, not necessarily hard but not without resistance. At least now I can go 20mph or so and feel like I am not comically spinning the pedals. I will probably upgrade the chainring to a slightly larger one at some point.

Installing the rear wheel took me 10 minutes or so. I am sure the next time will go faster but I wouldn’t want to do it on the roadside!
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Thanks for the freewheel update, that is a change I may also make. Found the $11. hub changing tool on Amazon for $1.22 on AliExpress. That place amazes me. I just received my $10. Amazon cell phone holder from AliExpress for $1.20, same box, same phone holder, identical.

After having the rear wheel off on mine, I added a patch and tire tool kit to my gear bag after Slimming the tires. Carrying the large screwdriver and rubber mallet to make a road side fix almost impossible. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32938743830.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.9fea4c4dVY1850
 
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