I don't know the proper name??

[Nvreloader]

He doesn't like how Americans travel around on their ebikes with guns and 50 pounds of ammo.

I'll wait for his replies.....

 

[Nvreloader]

PC
What is the length from the top of the double shoulder to the start of the bottom of the inverted leg?
I need between 12 to 24", for proper mounting of the 2 brackets...
I have found out that I can change a 135mm QR hub to a 150mm spacing, with a solid axle.
Still reading...

 

[PCeBiker]

I have found out that I can change a 135mm QR hub to a 150mm spacing, with a solid axle.
Still reading...

You're going to have to add 12.5mm to each side of your axle to keep things centered.
Then you're going to have to extend your brake rotor, and/or your caliper by 12.5mm, or meet in the middle with 6.25mm on each.

An offset brake rotor/caliper combination will kick your wheel sideways unless you have dual calipers.

You've just found a 🕳 that's 12.5mm wide and 6.25mm wide at the skinny spot.

Jump In.
I did.
I have no regrets.

 

[Nvreloader]

Ah PC,
When I went to school in the very early 60's, 135mm from 150mm was 15mm/.590" difference, divided by 2 = 7.5mm/.283" + or - approximately.

How did you come up with 12.5mm per side?

The brake side will be less than the non brake side...at least from my quick measurements, to keep the brake centered between the hydro brakes.

Or are we talking about something else/different ???

JJOYC = Just jerkin on your chain...lol

 

[PCeBiker]

PC
What is the length from the top of the double shoulder to the start of the bottom of the inverted leg?

It's adjustable. Top and bottom. It depends on the length of the steering tube on your ebike frame.
My damn steerer tube was about a half inch too short to attach the steering stem,..

Don't adjust it this far.
That's too much.

I need between 12 to 24", for proper mounting of the 2 brackets...

I put tape on the exposed stanchion, then put it on the over tube to show maximum compression,..

I think that you would have plenty of room ??

Keep in mind the offset fork tubes.

You'd have plenty of rotation before your bumpers hit, unless you're frame is in the way somehow ?

 

[PCeBiker]

Or are we talking about something else/different ???

No.
I'm having a very bad math day.

150-135 is definitely 15.
Half of that would be 7.5
I added a 5 for good measure, or lack of using my calculator. .

PS,.. That's an even tighter 🕳 to squeeze through.

 

[Nvreloader]

PC
Thanks for the photo's,
A rough measurement from my bike,
I would need approximately a 9-10" long steering tube length.
The frame is 7"+ in height, with the excess of the steering tube above the frame.

One item, I did NOT think about is. I will lose my front basket if I go this way,
using a double shoulder fork...)()*&%*$)*&()

If I understand all this right, to install a D shoulder fork, the top cross bar comes off, you add the bearing components to the steering stem, then add the top cross member and adjust to fit, and the handle bar stem lock sits on top of the top cross bar, to hold it all together?

It appears that there should be enough length, for what want to do. I just have to think about losing the front basket. If I can find a long enough (20-24") narrow width (12-13") basket, I can also use it for mounting the rifle carrying rack.

I have lots to think about...Thanks,

 

[PCeBiker]

If I understand all this right, to install a D shoulder fork, the top cross bar comes off, you add the bearing components to the steering stem, then add the top cross member and adjust to fit, and the handle bar stem lock sits on top of the top cross bar, to hold it all together?

That sounds right.
I never did install the forks but I'm sure that's how it's done.
You tighten up the should braces after the fork tube is tightened up.

It appears that there should be enough length, for what want to do. I just have to think about losing the front basket. If I can find a long enough (20-24") narrow width (12-13") basket, I can also use it for mounting the rifle carrying rack.

You'll need to know if you have a straight or tapered steerer tube.
Your best bet would be to remove your current forks and take some measurements.

I have lots to think about...Thanks,

You're welcome.

 

[Nvreloader]

You'll need to know if you have a straight or tapered steerer tube.
Your best bet would be to remove your current forks and take some measurements.

PC
Thanks
I have an email into Bikirix to get that information,
and then I can start looking at the proper fork change.

 

[Nvreloader]

PC
My Juggs 4 bike has these spec's for the steering stem =
Threadless 1-1/8" - 1-1/2" tapered,
I don't know the bottom/top bearing sizes yet.

The #1 item is, I don't want to lose the front basket,
as this bike has very critical COGL = center of gravity line, as it is.

The F basket with the 15#'s tool pack + 300 oz Camel Bac stops,
the severe handle bar shaking while riding on the trails.

Plus I'll be adding about 6-8 #'s with the air rifle on the back,
if I decide to mount it there, instead of the front fork.

Lots more to read and think about............

 

[PCeBiker]

PC
My Juggs 4 bike has these spec's for the steering stem =
Threadless 1-1/8" - 1-1/2" tapered,
I don't know the bottom/top bearing sizes yet.

You don't need to know about the bearings, they're "installed" in the frame, not on the forks.
The fork dimensions are standard.
Even my extra long steering tube on my new ebike frame is a standard dimension.

The only thing that you should have to do is swap the "bearing race/fork seat" thing on to your new forks.

It's basically a big spring loaded C-clip that supports the bearing race and steerer tube connection.

The #1 item is, I don't want to lose the front basket,
as this bike has very critical COGL = center of gravity line, as it is.

What about connecting the basket to the upper stanchions of your fork instead of the frame?

That should help weigh down your front end, And add moving mass directly to the forks and handlebars, so you should be able to help more with your hand grip input.

That should help with your shimmy, and if you've got some stuff in the basket that's got some weight to it and is allowed to bounce around a bit, it might add some damping effect to the front end?
Is there any reason why you can't attach a basket AND a air rifle to the forks??

They support buildings in earthquake zones by adding wobble joints to the foundation of the building.

The F basket with the 15#'s tool pack + 300 oz Camel Bac stops,
the severe handle bar shaking while riding on the trails.

I had a shimmy when I attached a battery to the rear rack OR the front rack of my Et-Cycle T1000, but my front rack it frame mounted.

If you add inertia to your front end, it could help with stability if it is steering mounted.
A wobble would have to shake your basket and everything in it if it's fork mounted.
You should be more able to stop a wobble more easily before it wobbles the frame?

Plus I'll be adding about 6-8 #'s with the air rifle on the back,
if I decide to mount it there, instead of the front fork.

If you mount your air guns aiming rearwards, and bring along a tank of compressed air, you could launch yourself forward with the hit if a switch,..

Lots more to read and think about............

I'm going to think up more stuff to think about .

 

[PCeBiker]

I don’t like the computer controlled weights.

When the computers attack, they will start from the top down.

Computer Generated ATTACK !!

Who controls the computers on the top of the building ??

What if The COMPUTER Is In Control ??!@!!