Nvreloader
Western Nevada
- Region
- USA
I'll wait for his replies.....
I don't know the proper name??
- Thread starter Nvreloader
- Start date
Nvreloader
Western Nevada
- Region
- USA
PC
What is the length from the top of the double shoulder to the start of the bottom of the inverted leg?
I need between 12 to 24", for proper mounting of the 2 brackets...
I have found out that I can change a 135mm QR hub to a 150mm spacing, with a solid axle.
Still reading...
What is the length from the top of the double shoulder to the start of the bottom of the inverted leg?
I need between 12 to 24", for proper mounting of the 2 brackets...
I have found out that I can change a 135mm QR hub to a 150mm spacing, with a solid axle.
Still reading...
PCeBiker
No-Hands No-Pedaling No-Credentials
- Region
- Canada
You're going to have to add 12.5mm to each side of your axle to keep things centered.
Then you're going to have to extend your brake rotor, and/or your caliper by 12.5mm, or meet in the middle with 6.25mm on each.
An offset brake rotor/caliper combination will kick your wheel sideways unless you have dual calipers.
You've just found a
🕳 that's 12.5mm wide and 6.25mm wide at the skinny spot.Jump In.
I did.
I have no regrets.
Nvreloader
Western Nevada
- Region
- USA
Ah PC,
When I went to school in the very early 60's, 135mm from 150mm was 15mm/.590" difference, divided by 2 = 7.5mm/.283" + or - approximately.
How did you come up with 12.5mm per side?
The brake side will be less than the non brake side...at least from my quick measurements, to keep the brake centered between the hydro brakes.
Or are we talking about something else/different ???
JJOYC = Just jerkin on your chain...lol
When I went to school in the very early 60's, 135mm from 150mm was 15mm/.590" difference, divided by 2 = 7.5mm/.283" + or - approximately.
How did you come up with 12.5mm per side?
The brake side will be less than the non brake side...at least from my quick measurements, to keep the brake centered between the hydro brakes.
Or are we talking about something else/different ???
JJOYC = Just jerkin on your chain...lol
PCeBiker
No-Hands No-Pedaling No-Credentials
- Region
- Canada
It's adjustable. Top and bottom. It depends on the length of the steering tube on your ebike frame.
My damn steerer tube was about a half inch too short to attach the steering stem,..
Don't adjust it this far.
That's too much.
I put tape on the exposed stanchion, then put it on the over tube to show maximum compression,..
I think that you would have plenty of room ??
Keep in mind the offset fork tubes.
You'd have plenty of rotation before your bumpers hit, unless you're frame is in the way somehow ?
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PCeBiker
No-Hands No-Pedaling No-Credentials
- Region
- Canada
No.
I'm having a very bad math day.
150-135 is definitely 15.
Half of that would be 7.5
I added a 5 for good measure, or lack of using my calculator.
.PS,.. That's an even tighter
🕳 to squeeze through. Nvreloader
Western Nevada
- Region
- USA
PC
Thanks for the photo's,
A rough measurement from my bike,
I would need approximately a 9-10" long steering tube length.
The frame is 7"+ in height, with the excess of the steering tube above the frame.
One item, I did NOT think about is. I will lose my front basket if I go this way,
using a double shoulder fork...)()*&%*$)*&()
If I understand all this right, to install a D shoulder fork, the top cross bar comes off, you add the bearing components to the steering stem, then add the top cross member and adjust to fit, and the handle bar stem lock sits on top of the top cross bar, to hold it all together?
It appears that there should be enough length, for what want to do. I just have to think about losing the front basket. If I can find a long enough (20-24") narrow width (12-13") basket, I can also use it for mounting the rifle carrying rack.
I have lots to think about...Thanks,
Thanks for the photo's,
A rough measurement from my bike,
I would need approximately a 9-10" long steering tube length.
The frame is 7"+ in height, with the excess of the steering tube above the frame.
One item, I did NOT think about is. I will lose my front basket if I go this way,
using a double shoulder fork...)()*&%*$)*&()
If I understand all this right, to install a D shoulder fork, the top cross bar comes off, you add the bearing components to the steering stem, then add the top cross member and adjust to fit, and the handle bar stem lock sits on top of the top cross bar, to hold it all together?
It appears that there should be enough length, for what want to do. I just have to think about losing the front basket. If I can find a long enough (20-24") narrow width (12-13") basket, I can also use it for mounting the rifle carrying rack.
I have lots to think about...Thanks,
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