Electric Car thread

I'm not against EVs but they currently seem to fit best for simple tasks mostly limited to local transportation needs. Maybe an ICE replacement for some (and that's great) but I'm guessing just an additional vehicle on top of their ICE for many.

We are going live in a mixed mode world for the foreseeable future where we have not only ICE and EV vehicles on the road at the same time, but big and small ones like we currently have. If there is anything we have learned in the past 100 years of motorized vehicles is that size matters. Accident survivability is directly related to the amount of steel surrounding the passengers. Therefore, in order to be safe people are going to have to have bigger vehicles with more steel surrounding them. Added battery weight does not suffice or add protection.

https://www.iihs.org/topics/vehicle-size-and-weight
 
Electric Ram 1500 Revolution EV truck with 3-rows and saloon doors:


1672964098754.png
 
I like EVs a lot, but my biggest beef with them is their cost. It seems that a new model comes out every week, but they tend to be (in North America) high-end models with huge power and accompanying huge price tags.
For EVs to really catch on in North America auto manufacturers need to start producing MUCH cheaper models, so average consumers (like me) can actually afford to buy one.
They have cheaper EVs in Europe, but not in NA.
 
I like EVs a lot, but my biggest beef with them is their cost. It seems that a new model comes out every week, but they tend to be (in North America) high-end models with huge power and accompanying huge price tags.
For EVs to really catch on in North America auto manufacturers need to start producing MUCH cheaper models, so average consumers (like me) can actually afford to buy one.
They have cheaper EVs in Europe, but not in NA.
It's similar here. The cheapest model starts at $47k, with skant few under $60k. The +$70k sector is alive with choice. For comparison, Australians spend $41k on average on new cars. Which is a lot more than I've ever spent. Hopefully we'll see the Chinese car and battery makers like BYD launching sub $40k EVs here this year. Realistically they're just going to be city cars though with batteries at that price point.
 
I like EVs a lot, but my biggest beef with them is their cost. It seems that a new model comes out every week, but they tend to be (in North America) high-end models with huge power and accompanying huge price tags.
For EVs to really catch on in North America auto manufacturers need to start producing MUCH cheaper models, so average consumers (like me) can actually afford to buy one.
They have cheaper EVs in Europe, but not in NA.
A base model Bolt EV can be very affordable especially if you can take advantage of the tax credits this year.
 
My problem is that I always buy used. I'm reluctant even to buy a used hybrid due to the battery replacement cost If needed. I'd be even more hesitant to buy a used EV.
 
I bought a used 2014 chevy spark several years ago for $7800, used it for 4 years and sold it a few years back for $8000 having spent nothing on it except changing the tires....
Best car investment of my life :)

No reason to worry about it being an EV, only choose a car with a range that fits your needs accounting for some battery reduction over the period you plan to keep the car.
 
My problem is that I always buy used. I'm reluctant even to buy a used hybrid due to the battery replacement cost If needed. I'd be even more hesitant to buy a used EV.

why?

Many ev's have an 8 year battery warranty - how many dinoburners get a new motor if to dies at 8 years?
 
No more wars over oil?
We will find something to fight over- its the American( big business way) things were really starting to be hopeful early 19th century by mid 19th things went sour because of greed and Human rights abuses after the so called" reconstruction( calling all 'carpet baggers) the few years till the next skirmish and 'Bully' been downhill ever since.
Those who were not the "best and brightest" had no worth?
 
Many ev's have an 8 year battery warranty - how many dinoburners get a new motor if to dies at 8 years?
Understand. However, I rarely buy a car newer than 8 yrs old. I look for quality used cars on which I can do my own repairs, and I take them to a mechanic for a pre-buy inspection. I suspect that as more and more used EVs come on the market, there will be better tools available to assess the condition of them.

In any case, a new ICE motor costs about $3-4k, or can likely be rebuilt for less if needed. A new battery costs $6k+, requires professional installation, and cannot be rebuilt at least not by a shade-tree mechanic like myself.
 
Understand. However, I rarely buy a car newer than 8 yrs old. I look for quality used cars on which I can do my own repairs, and I take them to a mechanic for a pre-buy inspection. I suspect that as more and more used EVs come on the market, there will be better tools available to assess the condition of them.

In any case, a new ICE motor costs about $3-4k, or can likely be rebuilt for less if needed. A new battery costs $6k+, requires professional installation, and cannot be rebuilt at least not by a shade-tree mechanic like myself.

Sadly, replacing ice motors is becoming less viable with modern vehicles. A mechanic friend of mine had 2 recent experiences where the electrics refused to cooperate - a mercedes vito and a suzuki vitarra.. Long negotiations with dealerships were unsuccessful at finding the expertise ( or motivation) to overcome the issues. Apparently the tech is designed to stop stolen cars being stripped and sold as parts, so forget about eg making 1 good car out of 2.

Rebuilding was cost prohibitive - even with him doing most of the work. He's an old school mechanic from the era where mechanics could diagnose and fix rather than just replace black boxes. He ended up buying a new car for the first time in his life !

For what it's worth, I used to keep my cars for 20+ years - maintaining them until they were retired. I made the call 4 years ago to prematurely retire my 1998 mitsubishi ute - I didn't feel safe driving 1.5 tonnes without abs I have zero intention of keeping it's replacement long term - hence my interest in this thread. Safety technology is rapidly advancing, as is ride quality and comfort / convenience. Fuel and servicing costs are approaching the point where a new ice stops making sense after 3/4 years. I'm not fooling myself into thinking I'll buy an ev and still have it in 10 years - we're still transitioning and I fully expect to be wanting something newer around that 3/4 year mark - good news for people like yourself who might be looking second hand but still within battery warranty?
 
If you like to rebuild DIY these days you probably have go back to the nineties its still possible to get a "square body' or F150 and re do it( that is if the rust worms haven't taken its essence away,ABS is one of the most hated features by Me I have tried to justify it and it scores negatie for me, I grew up driving junk and junk is a lot different from newer vehicles , the best ABS is learning to drive at a reasonable speed and meeting conditions no matter how safe( the inattentive human element) is made there will always be some joker driving with their knees in the wet or snow 20 miles over the speed limit while texting, I remember almost wrecking one day on a icy bridge because of ABS, Traction control ? Forget it the only way I could the wifes car up to the house when it was snowy was to turn the traction control off, after you have lived in the outback for awhile and operated and drove heavy equipment you get a feel for what is right for conditions, on my 2019 Nissan pickup they have screwed me, you cannot turn the blasted traction control completely off.
Of all the things that are really worthwhile safety-wise on newer vehicles only two I would pay extra for, "safety cage-crush zones and shoulder belts, they can keep all the techno wizardly and facebombs that are supposed to make an inept driver safer, My two cents( how about actual standards for drivers license and actual penalties and reducation for distracted drivers)
 
Last edited:
A new battery costs $6k+, requires professional installation, and cannot be rebuilt at least not by a shade-tree mechanic like myself.
The "shade tree mechanic" (love that old farrier term) will eventually transition from wrenches, grease, oil, and piles of rusted parts to learning how to diagnose a bad cell pack, drop and open an EV battery, and remove/replace the cell pack with a new one. No oil and no grease involved. Just new equipment to raise the car and lower the battery. You'll still need those wrenches for the bolts holding the battery pack in place under the car.

There are innovative backyard mechanics out there already experimenting with the new fangled technology. It's fun to watch their YouTube videos and see how they circumnavigate the new obstacles of modern vehicles. They take it as a challege to see if they can triumph. My son, who loves to find the old cast-off "buried in the weeds for 10 years" type classics and get them running and back out on the road again (I stand in awe of his "wrenching" talent and knowledge) , has now expressed an interest in getting an early Leaf. About the 2012 timeframe. You could have knocked me down with a feather when he told me that. But apparently he's not alone in his age group at looking at the older, affordable EVs as their new projects. Problem is, there are scant few to choose from and the market on those is thin.

Batteries at this point are still pricy. I've read of quotes up to $12k to replace a battery. The old ones, even with diminished range, have value and are in demand because they can be re-packed with new cells to bring back the original range, or used as solar power banks since they are designed to charge and recharge easily.

I'm at 70,000+ miles on my 2018, and in 4 more years expect to be at 150,000 miles. There are a few maintenance things I'll need to keep an eye on (cabin filter, tires, lights, windshield washer fluid, 12 volt battery) but I suspect the original equipment brakes will still be basically new (since I almost exclusively use e-pedal driving) and shocks and suspension will survive as well. All my ice cars reached 150k to 200k, but by 90k they were starting to nickle and dime me to death with engine repairs. It's the little things that you forget about later, but annoy you with repairs (some fairly pricy) at the time. All those millions of pieces, including the cooling systems, needed for a combustion engine to work. It will be interesting to see if my EV reaches that milestone of 90k with only the tires needed to be replaced due to wear.

Surprisingly, I'm still enjoying the level of tech and comfort my EV offers, and very reluctant to give any of it up for a newer model. I do like being able to indulge my inner teenager now and then to hop in my car for a drive without worrying about gas or gas prices to fund my frivilous fun. Yes, I do have to replace the energy used, but I can get some of that for free at any and all free Level 2s in the area. Otherwise I have to suck up some of my home grown solar supplied energy for the car, which isn't much of a hit. A few pennies. Not anywhere even close to the $$$ hit from a gasoline station. Best part? No toxins spewed into my breathing air at any time. And silent. Oh, so blissfully silent.

However, I intend to keep my Prius, just in case I need to drive a long distance (gotta love that 60+ mpg) because the EV charging infrastructure is still building out. When the new infrastructure can comfortably accommodate my EV distance needs, then the Prius will find a new owner. But not before.
 
Last edited:
I suspect that as more and more used EVs come on the market, there will be better tools available to assess the condition of them.
The chassis and suspension remain the same in the crossover from ICE to EV, so a good mechanic can still be of value in accessing how well a used car has held up with axles, shocks, rust, etc.

Otherwise, it's just the two batteries - the 12 volt and the main drive battery - that require a quick diagnostic. Both are very easy to check with tools already available. My EV main battery uses an OBD dongle (just like most modern ICE cars use) to access its internal database to see the health of each cell pack. A cell phone app and that inexpensive dongle are all that are needed. Dealers will probably still try to gouge the unsuspecting public for hundreds of $$$ (ask me how I know this) for doing a simple read that costs nothing beyond the price of the dongle itself.

Because I was curious as to the longevity of the electric motor that powers the car, I've been reading up on it. Everything points to their lack of moving parts and past history with trains and ships to say that a lifespan of 500,000 to 1 million miles maintenance free is expected. I wonder if I'll live that long.
 
All my ice cars reached 150k to 200k, but by 90k they were starting to nickle and dime me to death with engine repairs. It's the little things that you forget about later, but annoy you with repairs (some fairly pricy) at the time. All those millions of pieces, including the cooling systems, needed for a combustion engine to work.
While the battery on your Leaf is air cooled (most EVs have water cooled batteries), I’m pretty sure it has a cooling system (liquid) to cool the motor and electronics…..and will require maintenance at some point too. Just say‘n! 😜
 
Last edited:
The chassis and suspension remain the same in the crossover from ICE to EV, so a good mechanic can still be of value in accessing how well a used car has held up with axles, shocks, rust, etc.

Otherwise, it's just the two batteries - the 12 volt and the main drive battery - that require a quick diagnostic. Both are very easy to check with tools already available. My EV main battery uses an OBD dongle (just like most modern ICE cars use) to access its internal database to see the health of each cell pack. A cell phone app and that inexpensive dongle are all that are needed. Dealers will probably still try to gouge the unsuspecting public for hundreds of $$$ (ask me how I know this) for doing a simple read that costs nothing beyond the price of the dongle itself.

Because I was curious as to the longevity of the electric motor that powers the car, I've been reading up on it. Everything points to their lack of moving parts and past history with trains and ships to say that a lifespan of 500,000 to 1 million miles maintenance free is expected. I wonder if I'll live that long.
However hope the suspension components are upgraded to stand the extra weight, I had a Dodge Dakota ST that was so cheap it ate ball joints for lunch and, the manifolds even rusted off of it, plus the brake lines,( why in the heck arent brake lines made of non corrosive material and to think they make you buy new vehicles loaded with costly face bombs)If you go Stellantis beware, the old Rams seem to be 100k vehicles, OTH Honda and Toyota seem to have to meet the crusher to get rid of them. I would also say buy your EV now before they figure out how to dumb them down( One truck manufacturer has already done that, choking the EV version down so it will not outperform the diesel version( never buy one of them) they claimed they did it so the truck would feel the same as the as the stinky diesel version-I am not making this shite up!
 
LG has resolved their battery manufatcvuring issue, and the Bolt is back on.
We have not had the battery upgraded yet on our 2022, but love it :)
 
I actually came very close to ordering one, but just before I did Chevy put a hold on all Bolts because of their battery fire issues.
That’s no longer an issue. LG has fixed the issue with them as well as with Hyundai.
 
Back