Do I need a PHD to change a tire, or just a little advice?

Bikepsycho49

New Member
I have a new Allant +7s. I’m changing my Schwalbe G1s out for the Marathon E plus. I was able to break the bead on the disk brake side and remove the tube, but can not break for the life of me figure out how to get the other side of the bead off 😖 what’s my problem?
 
I have a new Allant +7s. I’m changing my Schwalbe G1s out for the Marathon E plus. I was able to break the bead on the disk brake side and remove the tube, but can not break for the life of me figure out how to get the other side of the bead off 😖 what’s my problem?
Have you tried to run the tire levers through it?
 
Make sure the bead on the opposite side of the tire is down in the depth of the rim as you put your spoon through. Hold that spoon there with one hand and then run another spoon right or left around the rim. Try to slide it. Soap helps. You should tractor tire guys do this in the field with sledge hammers and 4 ft long tire irons.
 
Make sure the bead on the opposite side of the tire is down in the depth of the rim as you put your spoon through. Hold that spoon there with one hand and then run another spoon right or left around the rim. Try to slide it. Soap helps. You should tractor tire guys do this in the field with sledge hammers and 4 ft long tire irons.

100% this - a few years back I couldn't for the life of me get a fat tire off a radrover I had at the time. Took it to the shop, tech just came out to the car and said here, make sure the other side from the one you are prying is in the center of the rim - popped right off, no effort at all! All that time you're thinking I got the hard one off, it is loose, why isn't it coming off! The resistance is at the opposite side of the wheel, so as long as the bead is in the middle 'valley' of the rim, that resistance disappears.
 
I've had a continuous problem with flats since I bought my Allant+ 7S about three months ago. I live in Arizona and the main issue is goat head thorns. I've tried thorn resistant inner tubes, Tannus Armour, Rhinodillo tire inserts, slime and was still getting flats with the Schwalbe G Ones. Just put on Schwalbe Super Moto-X with thorn resistant inner tubes with Slime. Hoping if I still get a puncture through all that it will be small enough for the Slime to plug the leak. It's been a real pain breaking the bead on the tires to replace tubes, etc. First time I got a flat I couldn't get the bead to release. Tried a bunch of techniques on Youtube but still couldn't break the bead. Took the tire up to my LBS and the bike mechanic easily popped the bead with a Park Toll PTS-1 Tire Seater. I ordered one from Park Tool and it has made it much easier to pull and replace tires.

PTS-1_002.jpg
 
Thanks for everyone’s advice. Like I said in the first post I could break the first bead ( disc brake side ) and use my tire levers to get that side off the rim. The other side no matter what I tried the bead would not break from the rim. It was like it was glued on. I tried several different size blades between the rim and the tire, nothing would separate the tire from the rim, so that I could get my tire lever in to take the tire off. So out of frustration I took a sharp knife and cut the New G1 tire off the rim. However the steel bead still remained against the rim .😫 so I got a pair of wire cutters and pried the steel bead to the point in which I could nip the wire and get the bead off. What a hassle!! Now I’m not new at bike mechanics, I have my own bike shop in my garage and do all my own work, but I have not ever seen this type of problem before. Here’s some pics.by the way the rim is fine 👍🏻
 

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Generally when I've got a stuck bead (and I've gotten quite a few) I lay the tire flat on the ground, put one foot on the tire on one side, and the put the other foot on the opposite side of the tire from the first foot, and lean on the second foot. Pops it right off.

Be careful about things like QR skewers when you do this, I've bent a few this way and that is not fun.
 
cutters and pried the steel bead to the point in which I could nip the wire and get the bead off. W

Did this as well 1x. Some of this tires have wrong sizes, or were made incorrectly and that could have been the issues.
I've had some Contis Made in Germany and Made in Taiwan and the differences werevery visible .

The best tire for 100% eliminating flats is Specialized Electrak 2.0 . If you get a flat in your first 5k miles on it , i will refund you the purchase😉 price. Just put a high enough tire pressure, smtms. a too low tire psi is the issue for flats.

I kept this too long on the rear wheel and then i finally got a flat. I switched it with the front one and good for another 5-7k miles !!
That Gripton +Armadillo rubber compound is amazing.

Ps- i'm replacing the dropouts on my ebike, that's why the wheel is off the ebike.
 

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Thanks for everyone’s advice. Like I said in the first post I could break the first bead ( disc brake side ) and use my tire levers to get that side off the rim. The other side no matter what I tried the bead would not break from the rim. It was like it was glued on. I tried several different size blades between the rim and the tire, nothing would separate the tire from the rim, so that I could get my tire lever in to take the tire off. So out of frustration I took a sharp knife and cut the New G1 tire off the rim. However the steel bead still remained against the rim .😫 so I got a pair of wire cutters and pried the steel bead to the point in which I could nip the wire and get the bead off. What a hassle!! Now I’m not new at bike mechanics, I have my own bike shop in my garage and do all my own work, but I have not ever seen this type of problem before. Here’s some pics.by the way the rim is fine 👍🏻
I just had the same issue with my Trek Super Commuter 8s and until I started reading about other people having this issue I figured it was a fluke. Had a flat on the rear tire and could not break the bead on either side, no matter what. Your picture of your cut tire bead, looks exactly like my situation. I thought it was glued on or something. I cut the tire with a box cutter then the bead with a wire nippers and had to use a channel lock to pull the bead away from the wheel. It seems like carrying around a spare tube and tire levers is not necessary, because the tools I will need to put a new tube on in case of flat will have to be done at home. I had over 3K miles on the Schwalbe super moto x and replacing them was due I guess, but never dreamed it would be this much fun. I have been changing my bike tires since the 60's so that counts for something I guess.
 
Buy folding tires, wire bead ones require some good technique . Also on the road , it's faster to change a tube .
Any recommendations of a folding tire for 27.5 x 2.40? I suppose Trek put wire bead tires on because they will not pop off or taco when hitting ruts or driving at higher then non E bike speeds.
 
Any recommendations of a folding tire for 27.5 x 2.40? I suppose Trek put wire bead tires on because they will not pop off or taco when hitting ruts or driving at higher then non E bike speeds.
That will never happen with a good folding tire , those are much better quality then wire based and that's why they're more expensive.
 
Any recommendations of a folding tire for 27.5 x 2.40? I suppose Trek put wire bead tires on because they will not pop off or taco when hitting ruts or driving at higher then non E bike speeds.
I ride a Trek Super Commuter and run Schwalbe Super Moto X tires with Tannus Armour. I have gone 30,000 miles flat free.
I had my LBS install them for me.
 
Stepping on the tire with the stuck bead side up, as close to the bead as possible, would be my go-to solution. The Park tool someone suggested looks good for shop use too.

As for a flat, you don't have to break both beads to patch a tube on the trail. You don't even have to take the wheel off the bike. Just do what you did, but don't take the tube out. (Of course you can't it the wheel is still on the bike.) Find the leak, pull out enough of the tube to patch it, put it back in and put the loose bead back on the wheel.

I've heard of people having this problem, but I never have in all my years of biking. Apparently I've been lucky.

TT
 
If you are doing this at home... a little soapy water on the bead works wonders.
Same goes for a bead that won't seat.
 
Update on the trying to change a wire bead tire. I was able to accomplish this in a few minutes with the following technique which doesn't mean it will work for everyone. I put a Irwin quick grip clamp on the tire just enough to miss the rim. Tightened up the clamp which pinches the tire together in the middle. Then grabbed the clamp and pushed it and tire away from me which broke the bead. I then used motorcycle type tire lever (park tool makes one also) and was able to then put this under the tire and tube and lift it over the rim. It actually took a couple of these tire levers to work. Then was able to use a bicycle tire tool to lift the tire off of the rim on that side. Now the other side where the bead is still attached. Used the clamp to break the bead and repeated the process. There are a variety of clamps that would be able to do this, its just a matter of pinching the tire enough to break the bead to gain access under the tube and tire. Advantage of this, is that the tire can be reused and the tube had absolutely no damage to it.
 
Sounds like the OP has the wire "fused" into rim using the tire "rubber" material. The tire material acted as glue to the stiff wire. A gentle usage of a heat gun might have softened the material enough to break the adhesion.
 
Sounds like the OP has the wire "fused" into rim using the tire "rubber" material. The tire material acted as glue to the stiff wire. A gentle usage of a heat gun might have softened the material enough to break the adhesion.
Tried the heat gun thing, made absolutely no difference for me. The wire bead particularly after about 3 years holds tight, which of course is what its suppose to do to prevent issues when riding with a heavier, faster bike.
 
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