Customizing a New Bike - Riese & Muller Homage Rohloff HS

[Alaskan]

I took delivery on a Riese & Muller Homage Rohloff HS this month and spent the first day with it in my workshop making it my own.

Here is a list of the additions and changes I made to the bike.

1. Bosch Nyon Display
2. Ergon Cork Grips
3. Busch & Muller 701 Mirror
4. Replaced 1800mm front brake rotor with a 203mm Magura Storm Rotor
5. Ergotec Swell-R Eco Ahead-stem L6 120mm adjustable angle stem to achieve a less upright, more forward leaning seating posture (this stem is a strength rating L6 whereas the stock stem was a L5)
6. Step cap bottle cage adaptor with Wolf Tooth Cage Mount Double for water bottle and Clearon Bluetooth speaker/fm radio
7. Pedaling Innovations Catalyst Pedals
8. Kinekt Body Float Seatpost suspension - added to the full suspension bike, it reduces higher frequency road vibrations resulting in less fatigue
9. Selle Anatomica H1 Saddle
10. Bibbia Rubber Mud Flaps
11. Move the lock mounting bracket .75 inches further down and forward in the rear rack to make more room for a trunk bag with no chafe.
12. Rear Turn Signal light
13. Ortlieb Pro Handlebar Bag
14. Topeak Cell Phone Holder
15. Lezyne Brass Bell (much sweeter tone)
16. Split Loom Cable Organizer to organize cabling
17. Schwalbe Super Moto X 27.5 x 2.4 tires (replaces stock Schwalbe Rock Razors which will be used during the winter)
18. Hexlox security devices for hex bolst on seat post, axles and stem
19. Switch out the order of the right handlebar controls to put the brake lever immediately nest to the grip and then the Rohloff shifter in the middle and horn button on the left. This made the brakes levers symmetrically adjacent to the grip and also put the shifter at a more natural reach for my thumb while keeping my right hand in position on the grip. One does have to reach the thumb over the high beam button with is integrated into the brake lever mount.
20. Boomerang Security and GPS Tracking Device installed on rear rack frame.

 

[Chris Nolte]

Looks great! It’s really awesome to watch you’re journey of ebikes. It’s great how you made the bike your own.


FYI - Hexlox now has the front axle for Subtour forks available if you weren’t aware.

 

[Alaskan]

Looks great! It’s really awesome to watch you’re journey of ebikes. It’s great how you made the bike your own.


FYI - Hexlox now has the front axle for Subtour forks available if you weren’t aware.

Thanks Chris I have one on order as we write.

Oh and one item I forgot to mention was putting a 203 mm Magura Front Brake Rotor in place of the 180mm that came on the bike.

 

[christob]

How do you like the Bibia mudflaps? Are they secure? (I gather they don’t require drilling into the fenders?) Where did you find them?

 

[Alaskan]

How do you like the Bibia mudflaps? Are they secure? (I gather they don’t require drilling into the fenders?) Where did you find them?

I got them on ebay quite reasonably. I put two inches of 1" 3m, outdoor, double-back tape at the top to make them really secure, doing an alcohol wipe on both surfaces before application. Then I folded the metal reinforced tabs around the fender sides, putting a tight pinch around the edge using smooth faced pliers for a clean, tight fit.

 

[Norm Harrris]

Why did you find it necessary to upgrade the brake rotors?
Thanks

 

[Alaskan]

Why did you find it necessary to upgrade the brake rotors?
Thanks

It was not necessary. The 180mm worked fine. I weigh 215lbs. frequently ride with 2 batteries and a trunk bag with tools, spare tube, water, etc. I also tend to ride fast with the 28mph class 3 bike. Given all that, a larger rotor runs cooler and might just give me the extra margin I need to survive. A larger rotor and mounting adapter for the calipers for less than $40 seems like relatively low cost safety precaution. Out there on the roads, I want all the odds in my favor.

 

[DaveMatthews]

Fantastic set of upgrades! What is the weight difference?

 

[Alaskan]

Fantastic set of upgrades! What is the weight difference?

If I knew, it would probably kill me . Guessing about 10-12 lbs. Makes every ride a bit slower and uses a bit more juice and gives every ride comfort and peace of mind. A worthy trade off.

 

[DaveMatthews]

If I knew, it would probably kill me . Guessing about 10-12 lbs. Makes every ride a bit slower and uses a bit more juice and gives every ride comfort and peace of mind. A worthy trade off.

Thanks! I dig the comfort/peace of mind thing.

Cheers,

 

[John from Connecticut]

It was not necessary. The 180mm worked fine. I weigh 215lbs. frequently ride with 2 batteries and a trunk bag with tools, spare tube, water, etc. I also tend to ride fast with the 28mph class 3 bike. Given all that, a larger rotor runs cooler and might just give me the extra margin I need to survive. A larger rotor and mounting adapter for the calipers for less than $40 seems like relatively low cost safety precaution. Out there on the roads, I want all the odds in my favor.

Howdy, To install the 203mm Magura Storm Rotor and mounting adapter for the calipers is it Plug and Play or do you have to bleed the brake fluid ? Do the
parts come as a kit ? Thanks, John

 

[Dionigi]

Looks great! It’s really awesome to watch you’re journey of ebikes. It’s great how you made the bike your own.


FYI - Hexlox now has the front axle for Subtour forks available if you weren’t aware.

Chris, the Hexlox front axle for Suntour you supplied works great and elimates carrying a cable to secure the front wheel.

 

[Alaskan]

Howdy, To install the 203mm Magura Storm Rotor and mounting adapter for the calipers is it Plug and Play or do you have to bleed the brake fluid ? Do the
parts come as a kit ? Thanks, John

The rotor comes with the machine screws all ready to use with thread sealant as did the mount. The procedure is simple and takes about 10 minutes in total. There are good youtube videos available, as for just about everything.

1. take the wheel off the bike
2. remove the six machine screws securing the rotor
3. install the rotor with the new screws
4. reinstall the wheel using a torque wrench to tighten the screw to the correct newton meter torque value.
5. pull the two bolts holding the caliper
6. leave the caliper hanging from the hydraulic tube...no need to mess with that.
7. remove the 180mm mounting adapter being held to the fork by two machine screws
8. install the 203mm mount with the two screws that come with it.
9. mount the caliper with the two bolts
10. make sure there is blue Locktight thread sealant on all machine screws and bolts
11. fine tune the adjustment of the caliper making sure it is centered such that the rotor spins freely with no rubbing.
12. tighten each of them with a torque wrench to the proper setting

 

[Mr. Coffee]

...make sure there is blue Locktight thread sealant on all machine screws and bolt...

@Alaskan, this may be a geeky question but any reason in particular you'd choose Loctite Blue over (say) Loctite Purple? I'm using Loctite Purple (which is the lowest-strength adhesive they sell) on my rack and fender bolts and it seems to be plenty secure.

 

[Alaskan]

@Alaskan, this may be a geeky question but any reason in particular you'd choose Loctite Blue over (say) Loctite Purple? I'm using Loctite Purple (which is the lowest-strength adhesive they sell) on my rack and fender bolts and it seems to be plenty secure.

It's just that I have always used blue for those things I am likely to take apart but want secure and red for those items I never anticipate dismantling. The purple just has never inspired confidence and the blue has always worked and not been a problem to take apart.

 

[John from Connecticut]

The rotor comes with the machine screws all ready to use with thread sealant as did the mount. The procedure is simple and takes about 10 minutes in total. There are good youtube videos available, as for just about everything.

1. take the wheel off the bike
2. remove the six machine screws securing the rotor
3. install the rotor with the new screws
4. reinstall the wheel using a torque wrench to tighten the screw to the correct newton meter torque value.
5. pull the two bolts holding the caliper
6. leave the caliper hanging from the hydraulic tube...no need to mess with that.
7. remove the 180mm mounting adapter being held to the fork by two machine screws
8. install the 203mm mount with the two screws that come with it.
9. mount the caliper with the two bolts
10. make sure there is blue Locktight thread sealant on all machine screws and bolts
11. fine tune the adjustment of the caliper making sure it is centered such that the rotor spins freely with no rubbing.
12. tighten each of them with a torque wrench to the proper setting

Hi Alaskan, Thanks for the the great instructions. I really appreciate your time and knowledge. I'm going to make the 180mm to
203mm conversion on the Trek XM700+ commuter. All the best, John