Tora Harris
Well-Known Member
Sounds like the 19" will work, you can see the chart below to help you decide.
(Link Removed - No Longer Exists)
(Link Removed - No Longer Exists)
Cross Current
- Thread starter Chandlee EBS
- Start date
Rob02150
Active Member
Thanks for the suggestion. I hope it doesn't feel odd since I've been on a 21 for so long. :|
I must say, I truly admire and appreciate your open communication. It's pretty much the reason I'm settling on this bike. You're always there to help.
Jack Tyler
Active Member
@Tora Harris thanks again for being so responsive to all our Q's. On another Juiced-related thread you mentioned:
"We have been doing the range testing with the production spec CrossCurrent to get the real range figures. We attached the GPS and battery power meter (Cycle Analyst) so we can record the information."
I'm finally able to test ride a CC early this week. I very much appreciate what the Cycle Analyst makes possible for the curious rider and I'm wondering what one needs to do - assuming a store-bought CC - to hook up a CA. I gather the CC isn't CA-ready in the same sense installing the throttle assembly is...but is it 'compatible' with a CA, which is what the above statement hints at? And does Juiced have an install description available that will coach a new owner on how to hook up a CA? I've searched this lengthy thread and the Juiced Forum content but can't find the A to this Q. Many thanks!
Jack
"We have been doing the range testing with the production spec CrossCurrent to get the real range figures. We attached the GPS and battery power meter (Cycle Analyst) so we can record the information."
I'm finally able to test ride a CC early this week. I very much appreciate what the Cycle Analyst makes possible for the curious rider and I'm wondering what one needs to do - assuming a store-bought CC - to hook up a CA. I gather the CC isn't CA-ready in the same sense installing the throttle assembly is...but is it 'compatible' with a CA, which is what the above statement hints at? And does Juiced have an install description available that will coach a new owner on how to hook up a CA? I've searched this lengthy thread and the Juiced Forum content but can't find the A to this Q. Many thanks!
Jack
I made a thread for this for the ODK - I'm assuming it's the same for the CC.
I test rode another CC today and this one felt faster than the first one I rode. The first CC I rode felt speed limited to ~20mph even though I had it on 'S' mode. I'm comparing it to the Stromer ST1 feels stronger but it costs twice as much (for an equivalent range battery) so I'm having trouble deciding which one to get.
grench
Well-Known Member
If you can swing it...STromer is the gold standard other purpose built Ebikes are measured against. IMO.
Tora Harris
Well-Known Member
Technically it should adjust longer with larger size, but we have them all the same for simplicity.
The CC is quite new and we are working on CA integration with Grin Tech, makers of the CA. The test bikes have the CA installed to gather data. They are wired into the bike, but it is not something plug and play at the moment. It is something awesome to have and we are working to make it easy to use with this production bike.
Tora Harris
Well-Known Member
The software on the controller can be upgraded by us, however a proper CA integration will require a different controller with the appropriate hardware inputs. Non-CA integrated Controllers will need to be swapped with CA-ready controllers. Hope that makes sense. We don't have a fixed date for the release.
Rindy
New Member
@Rindy , congratulations on your new CrossCurrent! As you might recognize from the length of this thread, there is much interest in learning more about the CrossCurrent. So I hope you post more comments about how you are using your specific bike and how it's performing. Battery/range performance, how it copes with the various road/trail surfaces, the custom-programmed motor's performance and its general build quality would, I think, be of special interest to the group. No doubt more formal, published reviews will begin to appear but, for now, you 'first buyers' are the experts!
I am sharing my experience with my new cross Current. I wanted to look at an ebike because my am commute was going to increase to the point where I couldn't really do it because of time and distance. With my new cross current, whose name is Cherry Bomb, I can shave 20 min. off the commute time one way! This makes it totally doable, and I will arrive happier, getting my daily dose of dopamine and avoiding the auto traffic.
So far I have logged about 130 miles. I have loved the ride! It is comfortable, with a gel seat and front suspension. I love the responsiveness of the torque sensor. It is fun to ride. I have no problems going up hills.
The hydraulic brakes have already saved me once from getting hit by a truck.
The battery needs to be charged at about 17 miles of use. I admit I like to ride fast. If the battery starts to get low, it starts to "chug" a little and then stops providing assist even when it appears the battery life indicates 2 bars of energy left. This chugging at first was a surprise, and hit me once when I was crossing a heavily trafficked road, a safety hazard. I charge the battery when it gets to 2 bars left (out of 5).
I would love more range.
theaggravatedjew
Member
I experienced the "chug" for the first time this weekend as well. It was definitely a surprise, as the battery level indicator tends to fluctuate as you change assistance, speed, terrain, etc. I would imagine that is a commonality among all e bikes with the battery level fluctuation. I am eagerly awaiting any news on the rack. I don't know how those with racks are setting them up.
J.R.
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Piedmont Highlands
That's more common of the LED type displays and not so much with LCD. The LED on my ProdecoTech will drop under load and bounce back at rest. Makes it much more difficult to judge where the state of charge is. My Easy Motion, with LCD doesn't bounce under load or rest. That's also true of most LCD ebikes I've ridden. You will in time learn how your system responds at various charge levels and be able to get close on the state of charge.
Tora Harris
Well-Known Member
Basically there are a few different ways to display the "capacity" of the pack.
1. Just look at the voltage:
This the most basic way to see the "capacity" of the pack. The LED or LCD lights are bars are just corresponding to a voltage. But there is a disadvantage as voltage jumps around. Under load the voltage will drop, cold weather etc and battery age effect the voltage.
We can programed the display to overweight the high voltage, but then it appears to have more capacity then is actually there. Or we can weight the low voltage. But then right off the charger, the display will drop under load and this freaks people out.
2. The other way is to pull the information from the BMS and display it.
In this way the battery's BMS will pass the capacity information to the display so it can more accurately give you the idea of where the pack's capacity sits. It is a little more difficult to setup requiring communication between the pack and the controller assuming the BMS is capable of doing that in the first place.
For simplicity we just use the voltage to give a rough idea of the pack's capacity. It lowers the cost and complexity so we can just get the CC to market faster. Once you ride it a few times you learn the way it works.
3. Measure the exact Watt-hours pulled from the pack. this is a very accurate way to know how much energy was used and if you know the overall pack capacity, you can figure out what is left. You need a Cycle Analyst or similar device. Once you see the actual voltage, current, and Wh in real time, there is no mystery as to what is happening. We are working on integrating this into the bike's controller, but it takes time and not totally necessary to enjoy a nice ride.
For the "Chugging" effect, Basically the motor pulls enough amps to hit the low voltage limit as the voltage drops. So there is a momentary pause in the power being sent to the motor. If the lower assist settings are used the voltage will not drop so much and you can still get some assistance when the pack is running low.
1. Just look at the voltage:
This the most basic way to see the "capacity" of the pack. The LED or LCD lights are bars are just corresponding to a voltage. But there is a disadvantage as voltage jumps around. Under load the voltage will drop, cold weather etc and battery age effect the voltage.
We can programed the display to overweight the high voltage, but then it appears to have more capacity then is actually there. Or we can weight the low voltage. But then right off the charger, the display will drop under load and this freaks people out.
2. The other way is to pull the information from the BMS and display it.
In this way the battery's BMS will pass the capacity information to the display so it can more accurately give you the idea of where the pack's capacity sits. It is a little more difficult to setup requiring communication between the pack and the controller assuming the BMS is capable of doing that in the first place.
For simplicity we just use the voltage to give a rough idea of the pack's capacity. It lowers the cost and complexity so we can just get the CC to market faster. Once you ride it a few times you learn the way it works.
3. Measure the exact Watt-hours pulled from the pack. this is a very accurate way to know how much energy was used and if you know the overall pack capacity, you can figure out what is left. You need a Cycle Analyst or similar device. Once you see the actual voltage, current, and Wh in real time, there is no mystery as to what is happening. We are working on integrating this into the bike's controller, but it takes time and not totally necessary to enjoy a nice ride.
For the "Chugging" effect, Basically the motor pulls enough amps to hit the low voltage limit as the voltage drops. So there is a momentary pause in the power being sent to the motor. If the lower assist settings are used the voltage will not drop so much and you can still get some assistance when the pack is running low.
There's also the 4 LED's on the battery. I don't know if they fluctuate since you have to press the button to view them. Also too bad the USB port on it is non functional. I just noticed the assist sort of dying today at around 30 miles out of a 33 mile roundtrip commute using mostly assist lvl 3 & a bit of sport mode. With the cyclocomputer set to 700c x 45 wheel it shows an avg speed of 18.5mph a 3mph improvement over my Ohm 350w Bionx. I've turned to fixing my dished off center front wheel myself hopefully that holds up since I just did it by eye.
Tora Harris
Well-Known Member
Thanks for your inputs. Yes the LED on the pack we have less control over the mapping. In general those kind of LED lights are insanely overzealous. We need to drill down to the supplier of that voltage board to solve that. We spec it "monitor only" when you push the momentary button because the lights we found to slowly drain the pack when left on. Same with the USB which was unfortunately deactivated. It is all done to up the reliability of the packs, but the tooling Reention did already so you end up with a "dummy" USB port that actually cost more to remove.
Rindy
New Member
My CC has the standard 7.8 Amp-Hour battery.
Rob02150
Active Member
On the verge of getting myself a CC. So excited.
For those who have one, how long did it take for it to be delivered to your place? I live in Colorado and am trying to arrange delivery to come when I'm not at work.
Also, do any of you know where to get the "best deal" for one? Thanks in advance!
For those who have one, how long did it take for it to be delivered to your place? I live in Colorado and am trying to arrange delivery to come when I'm not at work.
Also, do any of you know where to get the "best deal" for one? Thanks in advance!
Similar threads
