BBS*** Settings for a Smoother Ride

AHicks said:
Old man's bike pic as requested. Our home is just a couple of hundred feet the other side of that tree line. This "trail" is where Pence flew directly over me. It's used to maintain the airport's landing systems for their busiest runway. Thank God it's used only for corporate planes (big 3 automotive mostly). There's no regular passenger service out of here. This is the SE corner of 3000 acres or so of state land, bordering the north and west sides of a 700 acre lake - located just to the right of this pic. It's not really a giant park, but it's crisscrossed by miles of single track trails you'd be all day covering. The north side of the park has a couple of glacial ridges the mountain bike types come from miles around to play in. We're maybe 35 miles NW of downtown Detroit. My summer playground, I've lived within a mile of here most of my life. -AlView attachment 69513
Click to expand...
Very nice bike. Tidy, modestly equipped and easy to climb onto. Must be quite comfortable with that top dollar seat post when running lower tire pressures.
 
DuncanC said:
Very nice bike. Tidy, modestly equipped and easy to climb onto. Must be quite comfortable with that top dollar seat post when running lower tire pressures.
Click to expand...
looseheadset said:
I bet that's a smooth and comfortable ride
Click to expand...


Thanks guys! I love the bike, but honestly the tires have been a headache for my purposes. Mostly paved/hard pack on road here. The original knobby tires were replaced with the 26x4" Origin 8's in the pic due to the noise generated by the knobbies at speeds over about 10mph. They're expensive, and hard to find now. And at pressures that provide for a nice ride, there's a "self steering" issue that's really annoying. Any time those tires meet the slightest ridge in a road that's parallel to your direction of travel, they'll steer away from it or down into it depending on if the ridge is higher or lower than what the tire is presently on. This forces you to have to pay way more attention than is normal/necessary with more conventional tires. The partial cure is to inflate these to something up over 20psi, where that nice ride disappears. I changed tires again to get away from this self steering, to some 26x3" Kenda Flames, another expensive hard to find option. Much improved, that's what's on it now. Self steering issue is still there, but not nearly as bad. Ride is just OK. Other downsides are the huge feel these bigger tires give the bike, with a heavy feel, and the bike is TALL. Same height as a 29'er. Then there's the higher rolling resistance. Bottom line, I'm converting the bike to 27.5" tires, like the ones that come on the Rize RX. Using new quality parts (couldn't find anything decent used), and using a new set of front "air" forks (to allow the use of conventional 27.5 front wheel and get rid of the OEM pogo stick type sprung front end) the move is nearly 1000. An expensive lesson for sure, but it will be a REALLY nice bike when done! Point is, despite all the fat bike hype, for use on pavement, the fat tires don't always work out well. -Al
 
Have you looked at Schwalbe?
They have a new tire called pick up. Can be used as a cargo tire. And I think it comes in 27.5 x 2.6. Not knobby.
 
looseheadset said:
Have you looked at Schwalbe?
They have a new tire called pick up. Can be used as a cargo tire. And I think it comes in 27.5 x 2.6. Not knobby.
Click to expand...
Hadn't seen the Pick Ups, but a huge Schwalbe fan. After trying a few different tires, I settled on Schwalbe Super Moto-X 27.5x2.4" for my smaller "city" bikes. Absolutely love them for their ability to run low pressure for a great ride, and have low rolling resistance to boot! Have a set of Super Moto-X 27.5x2.8" in stock waiting for the Rize Rx Pro conversion to 27.5". Have you run a set of these Pickups? Wondering about required psi. The Super Moto-X can be run as low as 20psi.
 
Big Schwalbe fan too.
I have ThunderBurts on my e- bike, a Surly Ogre. Ride on gravel mostly.
I have Big Ben's on my Rivendel Plattypus.
I have not seen the Pickups tires
 
This thread was a good read. I am putting a Bbso2 on a Kona Dew for commuting and I would like to program it down just a bit so that I don't burn out the controller and get it as smooth as possible.
I pretty much only use the throttle to start off from a stop and I always pedal going up hill. I know I will have to ride it with the stock settings to get a feel for it but from what I have read so far from various places I would like to have a softer start and tame the throttle a bit. Any tips?
 
Jimmy666 said:
This thread was a good read. I am putting a Bbso2 on a Kona Dew for commuting and I would like to program it down just a bit so that I don't burn out the controller and get it as smooth as possible.
I pretty much only use the throttle to start off from a stop and I always pedal going up hill. I know I will have to ride it with the stock settings to get a feel for it but from what I have read so far from various places I would like to have a softer start and tame the throttle a bit. Any tips?
Click to expand...
I think the settings that contribute the most to taking the rough edges off of the BBSO2B are on the Pedal Assist page.
Start Current of 5 - 10 should be adequate for most
Stop Decay of above 90... I'm currently using 100 and feel it is the most important setting as far as smoothing and removing the heavy lurching forward and the pulsing On/Off with the stock settings.
Keep Current of 90 seems to work the best with the rest of my settings.
On taming the throttle, page 3
Mode: Current
Start Current... again something between 5 - 10
And getting the top two Voltages set correctly based on the particular throttle you have. If you are unable to take measurements another way is to rotate the throttle and see if there is too much travel before it engages. If so, lower the Start Voltage. If you end up settling it too low, the display will show an error. Careful doing this as it is possible to activate the throttle without touching it so having the back wheel off the ground is recommended.
On the other end if fully rotated and not reaching maximum current you can decrease End Voltage and if getting there before full rotation, increase End Voltage. This will give the throttle the widest range. To be honest, this method is kind of hard to guage but it does help.

In all... All settings I feel are personal and what I'm using on Page 7 post #123 of this thread work very well for me, my bike and how I ride.
My Page 1 Basic/Speed Limit % are set to my desired cadence for each PAS level and giving me the current needed to achieve it for various terrain situations... but keep in mind that you'll never draw that amount as cadence tempers it as soon as you start moving.

I'm just having my morning coffee now.. so I'll probably edit this and add more when I wake up 🙃
Get a programming cable ASAP and enjoy.
 
tomjasz said:
with baited breath...

im watching, believe it or not this week will be the first time since late 2014 that I’m making some changes to my 2014 EM3ev BBSO1 motors. I used level 7-9 PAS for the first time ever, and my settings suck.
Click to expand...
I think we ride similarly and I think that you will find the elevated Stop Decay a very nice adjustment.
The way mine are set you will want to use the full range of PAS. My thinking is to keep changes between PAS as small as possible this way as you increase, the changes are not dramatic and allowing you to pick one for many different situations. Also having the upper PAS set above a cadence that you can keep up with will always feel too aggressive.
Have you tried the el I emailed you?
 
tomjasz said:
oh oh... I didn’t see it! Gmail or iCloud address?
Click to expand...
Gmail
Double check the Pedal Assist /Current Decay setting as I may have suffered a brainfart and accidentally sent you a file with it set at 95.....it should be 90. Not a big difference but I do notice that PAS 5 and above behave better going up hills with a setting of 90... at least for me.
 
I loaded an .el file onto my BBSHD. My question is, on assist setting 0, what is the significance of current and speed limit being 1 instead of 0?
 
Csubi said:
I loaded an .el file onto my BBSHD. My question is, on assist setting 0, what is the significance of current and speed limit being 1 instead of 0?
Click to expand...
When set to 1 the throttle will work but PAS will not.

Honesty I don't see any reason to have a throttle only setting as any PAS can work that way... Just don't pedal.
 
AHicks said:
On a more positive note, now looking forward to the challenge of programming this bike from scratch. I KNOW I can improve it. How much I improve it will likely be be a result of how much time I feel like investing in it, and a LOT of test rides.... -Al
Click to expand...
If you could find a way to get the set amps higher that would make a lot of us smile. I also don't think the torque settings are understood by many. How did you make out?
 
I'd like to share my BBS02 settings.
PAS1 is minimal assist, for riding around pedestrians, on sidewalks etc.
PAS2-8 are closely spaced steps to establish a comfortable to brisk cadence, compensate for battery discharge etc.
PAS9 is full beans, as is throttle.
I prefer more assist to get going, then taper off as I gain speed.
throttle.gif

pedal.gif

basic.gif
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Trailboss
Himiway D5 owner (previously Zebra) questions.
Replies
0
Views
509
Trailboss
Trailboss
Jeremy McCreary
Visualizing and exploring the power-sensing PAS in Specialized mid-drives — an interactive graphical model
Replies
15
Views
701
Te. S
Te. S
CanNik
Can I get advice in plain easy to understand English please
Replies
11
Views
721
Tom@WashDC
Tom@WashDC
Mike N.
Velotric Discover 2 cadence sensor
Replies
0
Views
351
Mike N.
Mike N.
new2thegame
After a month of riding ...
Replies
9
Views
881
new2thegame
new2thegame
Back