BBS*** Settings for a Smoother Ride

Was just a way to explain it, not really ghost pedaling. Just spinning the pedals going down a hill or moving slow around people. Not sure about the speed, I rarely move off of PAS 1. I use the 1-5 setting. When at speed my watts do stay around 100 or less I guess. Apply a little more pressure and going 15 instead of 10 mph. With me, bike bag and bike takes a lot to move that 380 lbs.
Same here. PAS 1 of 5, 100 watts or so on flat level paved surface nets 10-12 mph and a rider with a big grin on his face. Same gross weight as well, but in my case there is no bag.... -Al
 
Same here. PAS 1 of 5, 100 watts or so on flat level paved surface nets 10-12 mph and a rider with a big grin on his face. Same gross weight as well, but in my case there is no bag.... -Al
Calicoskies said:
Was just a way to explain it, not really ghost pedaling. Just spinning the pedals going down a hill or moving slow around people. Not sure about the speed, I rarely move off of PAS 1. I use the 1-5 setting. When at speed my watts do stay around 100 or less I guess. Apply a little more pressure and going 15 instead of 10 mph. With me, bike bag and bike takes a lot to move that 380 lbs.


Ok it's obvious that I ride in a totally different manner.
On a typical ride I usually use 6 of 7 gears and 7 of 9 PAS. On a flat I typically draw 0 to <100 watts. I have 0 current or ghost pedaling down hills and my PAS is determined by the cadence I care to keep and my speed/terrain determines my gear.
I'm not saying that my way is better, it's just that I don't understand the point of having all those gears and PAS as a spec only. Now I could ride similarly as I know the motor has the torque to do so... but that just doesn't seem like any fun to me.
I do ride in an area with a lot of hills.
 
I rarely find a hill big enough to require me to use PAS 3, and I'm using 5 of the 9 gears frequently, maybe on every ride, and the ones just above and below those 5 (2 and 8 of 9) on occasion.

Big difference I think, is the speed I run at. If the bike isn't going down a hill, I'm just fine at 10-12mph cruise.

" that just doesn't seem like any fun to me."
After a lifetime of riding in/on the highest performance "stuff" available, speeds over 12 mph on a bike "just doesn't sound like any fun to me".
No right or wrong her, just different strokes..... whatever it takes to put a smile on your face.
 
No bag, where do you carry tools and lunch? I try to keep the cadence the same and use all 11 gears well maybe the first 9. If I go to PAS 2 or 3 it would be to fast for the Greenway I mostly ride. On the street in PAS 2 top gear I am going 30 mph easily. Always changing gears because there is no flats around here.
Screenshot_20210903-205738_Slack.jpg
 
I'm still hearing PAS 1 or 2 🙃
@AHicks / @Calicoskies
It seems both of you use very little of the Ulta's available power. Curious if you have considered lowering the global current?
And also since you stay in the lower PAS even on a 5 scale, have you considered making the incremental changes in current between each subsequent PAS smaller for a more granular increase allowing you to dial it in more accurately?
Not saying that it's necessary... just wondering if you've tried it or are just happy enough with the Frey Smooth to leave well enough alone.

Al... I too am not really a speed demon and basically ride at typical non ebike speeds. Although probably a few mph faster especially in the summer heat to increase the air cooling. I find this especially useful on some of the long gradual hills (3mi) I climb as 10mph has me overheating but 12-13mph is just fast enough to create a cooling breeze. And on the flats depending how rough the road and how strong I'm feeling I'm usually at 15mph +/- 3mph. On some downhill I will hit +/-22mph but at this point mostly under my own power. On a rare occasion I may power to near 30mph but not for very long as I'd rather ride more relaxed.

Calico.... Nice bike.. love the stealth look!
 
Clearly, I don't "need" the power available from the Ultra often. The reason I even have an Ultra likely dates back to the same reasons for some of the big toys in my past. I'm a product of the muscle car era.... I was a young mechanic working in a Chevy dealership located in the Detroit area through much of that era. BIG power when you are that young kinda spoils you forever, at least in my case it did. As a recognized Friday and Saturday night street racer with a string of ever faster more powerful Chevy muscle cars, suits would occasionally come back into the garage area of the dealership, and hand you a cool part, with a "here, try this", and a wink and a grin. We knew better than to ask questions.

So there's that, and then the hills I need to deal with. Ours aren't the long ones typical of mountainous foot hills. These are old sand dunes in a coastal area, now treed over. Shorter, likely steeper, and closer together. My 1000w geared hub bike can climb them without trouble (the reason that bike was built), but smaller geared hub bikes would likely struggle (or fail). Our Florida home lies smack dab in the middle of these old dunes, and I can't go anywhere without dealing with at least 5 miles of them. Outside of that, it's typical Florida topography - flat.

I think both of you are likely riding further than I have any interest in riding as well. 20 miles or so is about it for me. The exception being a ride with really entertaining features. I ride daily though, 12 months a year. 3 to 10 miles average, sometimes twice a day. That's the big reason I do the snowbird thing, commuting between Florida and Michigan twice a year. E-bikes are very definitely responsible for getting this 6'2" 300lb 70 year old off my butt.
 
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I may consider adjusting the PAS 1,2 and 3 to be smaller increments just to see if it works better and leave 4/5 for those rare occasions. Was out riding with the wife today on her Stunner X with a BBS02. Before you ask she does not let me program it so no trying the Stop Decay. I was able to pace along side with just changing the my leg pressure, again all assist one unless I was going up a large incline. Gears and torque sensor I can pedal at same cadence at 6 mph or 16 mph, lots of control. Do not want to be changing PAS all the time. Do not think I would ever change current because I want the power available just in case and would need the programming cable to adjust. My long ride is 40 miles that I may do once or twice a month. My normal quick ride is up to the Dam/Lake about 15 miles round trip. Do not have my second battery on in this picture, loaf of bread battery we call it.
Image from iOS (21).jpg
 
Regarding programming for smaller increments, with the Ultra, it IS possible to program PAS 0 just as you would any other PAS level. I have no use for a non powered PAS 0, so I thought I'd try one day, and it worked fine. May not be for everyone, I can see that, but there was no downside here. That gives you 6 PAS levels you can divy up......

Are those the 26x3.0" Kenda Flames on the Biktrix? That's what's currently on my Rize RX Pro. Nice, but I can't wait to try a set of 27.5"x2.8" Schwalbe Super Moto-X tires on it.

Nice pic of 2 nice bikes....

Here's mine. The one I haven't seen in months, but will be meeting up with again the first of November. This was taken when I had the 26x4.0 Origin 8's on it.
DSC00402a.jpg
 
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Nice Bike. I looked at that one also. Blue bike has the 24x3 Innova which is not a major brand and I have the 27.5x3 with ChaoYang again not my first choice. Companies are using anything they can find with the supply issues. I did have the six PAS setup but decided I wanted to be able to ride in quiet at times and set back to 0/0 not even 1/1. On flat ground you can ride all day long in granny gear if you wanted.
 
I find 0/0 useful for short stops, handling the bike or when working on the bike without having to keep turning it on/off.
Since any PAS can be set to anything I use all 9 as the option is there ready even if you don't use it very often. Since my PAS 1 is set to such a low speed basically anything over 6mph and the motor is off. YMMV
 
Nice Bike. I looked at that one also. Blue bike has the 24x3 Innova which is not a major brand and I have the 27.5x3 with ChaoYang again not my first choice. Companies are using anything they can find with the supply issues. I did have the six PAS setup but decided I wanted to be able to ride in quiet at times and set back to 0/0 not even 1/1. On flat ground you can ride all day long in granny gear if you wanted.
At lower wattage, my bike is nearly silent. I'm picky that way and I'm fine with it. Same story though, PAS 0 power is just enough to say there is some, and I use it at low speed in the grass or maybe riding into a stiff headwind. I can just power down when I want no assistance

Anyway, on the tires, I wanted to share that I tried the Schwalbe Super Moto-X tires on my 1000w geared hub bike that has 26" wheels. Had been running Marathons for quite a while, but tired of the bone jarring ride. So I installed a set of these Super Moto-X ballon types because they were supposed to ride better. Long story shorter, I was so impressed with them I put them on our 3 27.5 "city" bikes - and got the same results. wife noted the difference in ride immediately. Great ride due to the much lower pressures they run at, and no difference in battery mileage as compared to the 2.00" Marathons (low rolling resistance). With the Rize Ultra that I'm converting to 27.5", I was looking at tires (again) and saw the Super Moto-X in the 27.5x2.8" size (27.5+). The 2.4's can be run down to just 30psi, but the 2.8's can go down to just 20psi. Seeing that, knowing the rolling resistance on the 2.4's is no different than the Marathons, I'm sold. Can't wait to try them. Nice too, is the fact they are actually available. The 2.4 size I beleive were a little too popular, and there are none to be had anywhere. Noteworthy is the fact the 2.4's are fine with a little sand. They don't get all dodgy like the Marathons did. Pretty impressive that way as well. -Al

https://www.ebay.com/itm/184715282775?epid=2255979394&hash=item2b01e38957:g:2EIAAOSwLEJgUje-
 
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@AHicks / @Calicoskies
It seems both of you use very little of the Ulta's available power. Curious if you have considered lowering the global current?
And also since you stay in the lower PAS even on a 5 scale, have you considered making the incremental changes in current between each subsequent PAS smaller for a more granular increase allowing you to dial it in more accurately?
Not saying that it's necessary... just wondering if you've tried it or are just happy enough with the Frey Smooth to leave well enough alone.

Al... I too am not really a speed demon and basically ride at typical non ebike speeds. Although probably a few mph faster especially in the summer heat to increase the air cooling. I find this especially useful on some of the long gradual hills (3mi) I climb as 10mph has me overheating but 12-13mph is just fast enough to create a cooling breeze. And on the flats depending how rough the road and how strong I'm feeling I'm usually at 15mph +/- 3mph. On some downhill I will hit +/-22mph but at this point mostly under my own power. On a rare occasion I may power to near 30mph but not for very long as I'd rather ride more relaxed.

Calico.... Nice bike.. love the stealth look!
👎
 
I thought I should update this as I've now adopted the high Stop Decay setting that I was experimenting with and tweaked some other settings to compensate for minor changes in speed and acceleration.

Top Speed is set to 28mph on my display.
PAS 0: Neutral, no Pas or Throttle. Walk Mode still works.
PAS 1- 2 To navigate tight paths, steep bumpy trails or any slow speed situation. (Usually in gear 1-2)
PAS 2-3 To get you rolling in most flat ground situations
PAS 4- 7 My main usage riding... Keeps me in the teens as far as speed depending on the gear I'm in.
PAS 7-8 For +/-20 mph
PAS 9 Mostly to facilitate a full Throttle range as I have my Throttle set to PAS 9 and with full power and speed.
My Throttle Start and End Voltage are set for a Half Throttle Grip, not the stock Thumb throttle

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One note on how I ride and use PAS. I ride mostly for exercise and am looking for minimal motor assistance except for hills. I use my gears the same as if I had no motor assistance. I think of PAS as my choices in cadence and increase PAS to increase my pedaling speed and typically end up applying the same amount of pedal force across the range. That's why my PAS Current settings are in a narrow range between 65% and 74%. The motor requires this much current to work the way I want but rarely reaches those levels except on hills as the PAS Speed% setting tempers it on flat terrain. When on a flat I'm usually drawing from 0 - 3a depending on gear and minor changes in my effort. If I encounter resistance (a hill or wind) that causes me to slow, the motor will compensate to keep me at the set cadence speed typically below 10a. When encountering a greater resistance causing amperage to go above 10a, I'll typically downshift to ease strain on myself and the motor.
Anywho. . .this is the happiest I've been with the BBS02B settings since I've been using it and I'm so stoked that I paused my plans to pick up an Ultra powered bike next spring. Well mostly this and a little bit of the inability to personalize the new CANBUS motors.
I had Best buy tune up my lap top. Up dated drivers.
Able to click on connect then COM3, ONLY one choice. Typed in all the changes to my controller .
I can't select read, write,read flash, or write flash. No controller info on the right.
SOMETHING IM NOT DOING?
 

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Just got an email from a shop.

Speeed - Bafang BBS01/02 BBSHD Configuration Tool

An Android phone app.
You're Slackiń Santo! 🙃
This has been out for months now and has been mentioned several times as well as having a dedicated thread.
It is very convenient for field tweaks and allows you to use your phone as a display.
The developer is working on a Bluetooth dongle for a simple connection to your phone. But for now you need an OTG adapter to use with the USB/Serial cable that's used for pc programming.

 
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