2021–2022 Riese & Müller Homage

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Marc: Richard has to tell us anyway. I've been using the table blindly for my 200 lbs. Now, it turned out 65 psi gives me very smooth ride (and I don't intend to make jumps in any situation) :)
 
marcparnes said:
I actually don't think so. Just as a coincidence when using pounds and psi it turns out that fork pressure as a good starting point happens to come out to a number half of the rider's weight. I weigh 180 lbs and a setting of 90 psi sets my sag perfectly. With the shock it works out again by coincidence. If I set my shock to 180 psi the sag comes out right. Its just a matter of numbers, its not a real "ratio". I'm pretty sure that is what he was referring to as it is a commonly acknowledged rule here where we use lbs and psi. Anyway, lets see what he says he meant.

Marc
Click to expand...
As an initial set up, my Riese and Müller dealer recommends a psi pressure of weight in kilograms plus 10%. This is also equivalent to a psi pressure of half the weight in pounds.

180 lbs = 180 ÷ 2.2 kg

180 ÷ 2.2 plus 10%
= 180 ÷ 2.2 × 1.1
= 90 psi
 
Stefan Mikes said:
Marc: Richard has to tell us anyway. I've been using the table blindly for my 200 lbs. Now, it turned out 65 psi gives me very smooth ride (and I don't intend to make jumps in any situation) :)
Click to expand...
What is interesting is the next time you go for a ride push the o-ring down so it is sitting on top of the fork seal. After your ride take a look and see where the o-ring ended up. If it is all the way up to the top and you hadn't been taking jumps then you might consider that you are using too little air for your weight and the fork is bottoming out. The best way to get the nicest ride and the least amount of pedal to ground interference is to set the sag correctly. I do it a little different than Richard does I think. I lift the bike a little bit to make sure the fork is fully extended and then push the o-ring down till it is touching the seal. Now gingerly sit on the bike without bouncing and allow your full weight on the bike by putting your feet on the pedals and balance yourself by having a wall nearby you can put your hand against. Now get off the bike without bouncing and lift the bike again to unload the fork and measure the distance between the o-ring and the top of the fork seal. The rule of the thumb I use is to have 1/3 of the forks total travel (100 mm/3=33 mm) taken up by total sag which will be that measurement. If it is much more than that you have too little air, much less than that and you have too much air. Works well :)

Marc
 
Okay, I hope this clarifies things. Doing the conversion from kg to pounds first allows these 100% / 50% PSI pressure values rule of thumb to work. Most suspension pumps have multiple scales. Use the PSI scale to set the pressure in PSI at half your body weight in pounds.

Body weight 180 lbs. or 81.6kg or 12.85 stone
Front fork starting pressure setting 90psi or 6.2 bar
Rear shock starting pressure setting 180 ps or 12.5 bar ( I usually end up adding 10-20 pounds extra for the second battery, horn, bag, water, tools, tubes, pump, etc. that I am carrying along.)
 
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Richard, Marc: Thank you for your input. Now, I'm going to give my Trance some bashing to see how it behaves with the low front shock pressure :) Tomorrow morning!
 
@Alaskan:
Richard, the outcome. The maximum travel of the front shock at a winter ride was 80 mm out of 150 mm. Meaning, I can afford low air pressure unless I travel for some harsh off-road :)
 
R&M Designer Sebastian Delauney …

New to me …
  • How the down tube meets the head tube — the section where the front carrier bosses are located is part of the head tube and is at a different angle from the section carrying the batteries.
  • Possible problems with location of Abus lock — especially when saddle is at lowest setting.
  • 70 mm dropper post — appropriate for placing feet on road (mountain bikers prefer 125–150 mm drop).
  • R&M's Culture (a gorgeous ebike!) has been discontinued — 'replaced' by the single-battery Homage.
Link to YouTube
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Eh, they've retired and revived the Culture a few times - it was their first eBike model if I recall.
 
Not a fan of grinding down welds on aluminum to make it pretty. It generally weakens the welding joint. I know some riders like this touch but I think it is a matter of form overriding functional integrity. If they made the downtube out of thicker material they could make it pretty and still keep it strong but now you are imposing a weight penalty for added aesthetics.
 
Stefan Mikes said:
What do you think of Trek Powerfly FS 9 Equipped?
Click to expand...
Trek Powerfly FS 9 Equipped


An eMTB with mudguards, rack for panniers or trunk bag and a kickstand: that I have to take seriously.

The Trek Powerfly FS 9 Equipped isn't available in Australia.

Ditto: Allant+ 8 in their 'Stagger' (lowered top tube) configuration. Don't they want my return custom!

Just for fun, here is Trek's promo video…

 
webcurl said:
Why can't other brands do suspended racks?
Click to expand...
There are not that many full-suspension SUV e-bikes in the market. It is the MTB that is expected to be dual suspended, and typically MTBs don't use racks. Creating a suspended rack requires serious unique design, increases the cost, and not everybody is excited about the idea (I've heard opinions the suspended rack gives the bike weird look). It is certainly unique to R&M. I'd personally love having such a rack on my e-bikes but accept the reality.
 
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