2020 Allant 9.9S Grinding Noise from motor or is it?

[JonVonGod]

Got mine today as well. Same solution, all new internals on the original hub. There was a failure of the clutch plate mechanism after I heard the scratchy noise and turned the bike in. during the testing of the replacement motor (which turned out not to be needed). I just got back from a ride and it sounds and runs perfectly. @GuroUno I hope you like the AXS as much as I do. If the controller clamp ring is already right next to the grip, I don't know how you get it any closer. I actually wanted it further away so I don't keep accidentally shift when I go over bumps. See the photo of my cockpit in the above post.

View attachment 51808

Picked mine up today after 2 weeks in the shop. They rebuilt the hub and all is quiet for now!
UPDATE on 6/14/20: THE SCRAPING NOISE IS BACK! Time to upgrade to the Onyx hub?

 

[JonVonGod]

35 miles ride on the Allant today, mostly in Turbo and pedaling hard, heart rate around 120, rider wattage around 120 average speed close to 20. started with 93% in two batteries, ended the ride with 42% remaining. The bike rode like a dream and was nice and quiet. The guys at our local Trek shop did a great job

I've been reading up more about the Onyx hubs, made in Michigan and available in lots of different colors. I am going to do it in anodized Candy red.
Here is a long term review of the Onyx [

Onyx Hubs Review: Long-term Trail Tested

Our long-term Onyx Hubs review and why silent, instant engagement should be considered when looking at a hub for bikepacking and technical mountain biking.

bikepacking.com

This is the model that swaps out directly with the Allant [

Onyx Vesper MTB CL MS 142/12 Thru-bolt Rear Hub

SKU: 102654

onyxrp.com

I spoke with Onyx this week and for e-bikes they recommend the original, heavier hub, not the new Vesper.

Got my Allant 9S back today, the put new 'internals' into the existing Shimano hub. I saw a gob grease spewing from the side so not sure what is what. The LBS said they replaced the guts.
Rode the bike for 15 miles this evening, perfect.

HOWEVER, initially when the bike was new/delivered, when "free wheeling" (coasting without pedaling) I would hear this 'click, click, click' and was told it was the way it is, and that's that. My previous Super Commuter did not make that clicking while free wheeling. I do hear some other bikers with their clicking and have no knowledge of its purpose, effect, need or otherwise, however, the NEW GUTS DO NOT CLICK like previous one did, so I'm at a loss as to understand that in itself.

On another note, got the Sram AXS installed, it's fantastic. One thing though...I feel like I'm 'reaching' for the paddle/control and would like to know if it is something that has any type of optional mount on the handlebar to have it jut more to the right a bi1t an 1" or so so I'm not stretching my thumb to the left to use it. With my hand placed on the handgrip in a comfortable position, I'd like to naturally just have the ability to activate it without 'reaching'.

For the AXS unit, try rotating it a few degrees down so that the thumb part is under the bar as shown in these pics. That will also expose the other side of the lever, which can now be reached with your index finger. Hope this helps!

 

[JonVonGod]

Got my Allant 9S back today, the put new 'internals' into the existing Shimano hub. I saw a gob grease spewing from the side so not sure what is what. The LBS said they replaced the guts.
Rode the bike for 15 miles this evening, perfect.

HOWEVER, initially when the bike was new/delivered, when "free wheeling" (coasting without pedaling) I would hear this 'click, click, click' and was told it was the way it is, and that's that. My previous Super Commuter did not make that clicking while free wheeling. I do hear some other bikers with their clicking and have no knowledge of its purpose, effect, need or otherwise, however, the NEW GUTS DO NOT CLICK like previous one did, so I'm at a loss as to understand that in itself.

On another note, got the Sram AXS installed, it's fantastic. One thing though...I feel like I'm 'reaching' for the paddle/control and would like to know if it is something that has any type of optional mount on the handlebar to have it jut more to the right a bi1t an 1" or so so I'm not stretching my thumb to the left to use it. With my hand placed on the handgrip in a comfortable position, I'd like to naturally just have the ability to activate it without 'reaching'.

Try rotating the AXS controller down a few degrees so it falls under the grip. That worked for me!

 

[Alaskan]

One of you Gen 4 owners might start a thread asking the owners of other Gen 4 motors ( particularly on any other brand bike) A: their mileage and B: any noises / troubles? It sounds like Bosch took a bashing here for nothing?

Point well taken. I quite agree. Feeling a bit guilty that my new gen4 speed motor was needlessly replaced. I never did insist on that or even declare it to be a motor issue. The symptoms pointed at the motor but....

 

[Alaskan]

And just to add....like I stated before, what may be next. That's all.
Trek told me today the the Allant + 9.9S is "Trek's most technologically advanced bike ever developed", so one must assume we are living on bleeding edge.

I, for one, am happy to be on that edge and endure some mild inconvenience to help refine the product...so long as Trek provides solid support.

 

[ppilarski]

@Seiber, thanks for sharing that information, it has been driving me crazy. Amazing what a little squeaking can do over time.

I checked mine out just a few minutes ago and the two screens that connect the fender & rack to the rear chain stays were lose and the fender guide rail that you pointed out in the image you shared is indeed not secured. Have they proposed a fix for this yet that you know of? If I have time tomorrow, I might take the entire back section off to test it out.

Ok, couldn't go to bed with a good lead like this to work off of. I was initially going to take the fender off, but then I decided to try something that worked out for me. Issue resolved! So, first, I noticed that the fender did not sit securely in the guide rail that @Seiber pointed out, so I decided to completely unscrew the two screws that hold the rack in place near the rear hub. Once these were off (this includes a screw, a washer, and a fitting on the backside) on each side, I was then able to move the fender down in the right place and then I screwed the rack back on. Voila, now it fits correctly and no more noise! I posted a before (img_8091) and after (img_8092) pic. The fender actually follows the tire line now, it bothered me that it did not when I first picked it up. Install / QC issue? Does anyone else have a rear fender that was not seated correctly, possibly causing creaking sounds?

 

[Alaskan]

I spoke with Onyx this week and for e-bikes they recommend the original, heavier hub, not the new Vesper.

Did Onyx give you a model number that is compatible with all the rear wheel components on an Allant+9.9s?

 

[JonVonGod]

Did Onyx give you a model number that is compatible with all the rear wheel components on an Allant+9.9s?

 

[JonVonGod]

No, I didn’t get that far.

 

[ppilarski]

I spoke with Onyx this week and for e-bikes they recommend the original, heavier hub, not the new Vesper.

That's the one I have on my MTB - solid performer.

 

[E-Wheels]

Got mine today as well. Same solution, all new internals on the original hub. There was a failure of the clutch plate mechanism after I heard the scratchy noise and turned the bike in. during the testing of the replacement motor (which turned out not to be needed). I just got back from a ride and it sounds and runs perfectly. @GuroUno I hope you like the AXS as much as I do. If the controller clamp ring is already right next to the grip, I don't know how you get it any closer. I actually wanted it further away so I don't keep accidentally shift when I go over bumps. See the photo of my cockpit in the above post.

View attachment 51808

Wow the steed is packing some serious range potential now

 

[Alaskan]

For you Allant owners who are upgrading to the Sram AXS wireless system, a note about the derailleur guard that came with the Allant. The AXS derailleur is bigger than the stock Shimano one. The bike came with a very nice guard for it but the AXS does not fit behind it as installed. Joseph, the head mechanic at the Trek shop who does all the work on my bike, cut out, drilled and painted a little adaptor plate from 3/16 aluminum stock to mount the guard outside the AXS derailleur. If your guy did not do that, it would not be too difficult a DIY project or take it back to the shop that did it and show them these photos.

 

[Over50]

For you Allant owners who are upgrading to the Sram AXS wireless system, a note about the derailleur guard that came with the Allant. The AXS derailleur is bigger than the stock Shimano one....

It seemed, from watching the videos, that one of the benefits of the SRAM is that it self-aligns and is very resilient to taking hits from rocks and what not. It is designed to take an impact and will reset itself. If this is true, is the guard necessary? Particularly for road riding?

 

[GuruUno]

I just went out to the garage and looked at mine, and it's the OEM guard and it works/looks fine. Pictures to follow.

 

[JonVonGod]

I just went out to the garage and looked at mine, and it's the OEM guard and it works/looks fine. Pictures to follow.

So does mine.

 

[Alaskan]

It seemed, from watching the videos, that one of the benefits of the SRAM is that it self-aligns and is very resilient to taking hits from rocks and what not. It is designed to take an impact and will reset itself. If this is true, is the guard necessary? Particularly for road riding?

The Sram does have an impact relief clutch that allows it to take a hit on the outboard side and collapse inward and then pop back out...a really cool feature. The bike came with the derailleur guard, a rather unique add-on. I figured at least it will keep the paint and finish on the derailleur looking better and might actually save it from a hit that surpassed what the relief clutch can handle.

 

[Kevmk81]

Ok, couldn't go to bed with a good lead like this to work off of. I was initially going to take the fender off, but then I decided to try something that worked out for me. Issue resolved! So, first, I noticed that the fender did not sit securely in the guide rail that @Seiber pointed out, so I decided to completely unscrew the two screws that hold the rack in place near the rear hub. Once these were off (this includes a screw, a washer, and a fitting on the backside) on each side, I was then able to move the fender down in the right place and then I screwed the rack back on. Voila, now it fits correctly and no more noise! I posted a before (img_8091) and after (img_8092) pic. The fender actually follows the tire line now, it bothered me that it did not when I first picked it up. Install / QC issue? Does anyone else have a rear fender that was not seated correctly, possibly causing creaking sounds?

I noticed this same thing - except I noticed if that contact point where the fender fits into that plastic 'holder' is a bit dirty - it will rub and still make noise. I took some teflon bike grease and applied a bit where fender rubs plastic - no more noise So just in case that sound comes back - I'd give that a shot as well. My bike is extremely quiet right now besides normal electric motor noise. In fact it's the quietest bike I've ever owned - again besides the electric motor. Now I just need to figure out why my right SPD pedal makes a noise when I'm clipped in. Doesn't do it when I'm using the platform side of the pedal... hmm.... thinking of maybe lubing the spring in the pedal and maybe using grease on all contact points on my cleats.... lol. Very minor annoyance and not bike related.

 

[GuruUno]

For you Allant owners who are upgrading to the Sram AXS wireless system, a note about the derailleur guard that came with the Allant. The AXS derailleur is bigger than the stock Shimano one. The bike came with a very nice guard for it but the AXS does not fit behind it as installed. Joseph, the head mechanic at the Trek shop who does all the work on my bike, cut out, drilled and painted a little adaptor plate from 3/16 aluminum stock to mount the guard outside the AXS derailleur. If your guy did not do that, it would not be too difficult a DIY project or take it back to the shop that did it and show them these photos.
View attachment 51953View attachment 51954

My OEM guard works fine (photo attached)

 

[Alaskan]

My OEM guard works fine (photo attached)View attachment 51973

looks like you got a different, lower profile derailleur than mine. I got the x01 and it appears you got the xx1 which is a bit lighter due to paring down and carbon fiber components. Nice that it fit behind the guard with no mods needed...oh well. Now we just need to know if the Onyx classic is available to configure on our bikes without replacing everything else. I assume @JonVonGod is waiting for a response on Monday.

 

[GuruUno]

Have any of you that have the Sram AXS attempted to use the APP to verify that there is a firmware update, yet although it shows there is none for the rear but 1 for the controller (on mine anyway), it does zippo, nothing.
My research shows someone posted a month ago on emtbforums.com about it being a problem. I've put in a support request
See: https://www.emtbforums.com/community/threads/sram-eagle-axs-component-firmware.11330/
Although my Sram AXS works perfectly, the app on the iPhone only shows the battery level on the rear derailleur, not the handlebar controller.

Anyone got a place to get a spare battery for less that the OEM $55?