Alaskan
Well-Known Member
You could post your video on YouTube or Facebook and then put a link to it in a post here on EBR.
2020 Allant 9.9S Grinding Noise from motor or is it?
- Thread starter GuruUno
- Start date
I have the 8S and have not experienced this noise. Has anyone else with the 8s and the identical motor reported these issues. If not, perhaps it is non-motor related. I have a clicking sound with mine on occasion, but I think it is the saddle making the noise. I can get out of the saddle or sit on the back end and the clicking goes away. Hopefully there are not motor related issues that some of us may have to deal with.
Akrotiri
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Europe
So the original motor was not defective?
Over50
Well-Known Member
Makes this seem a more plausible theory.
I picked up my 9.9s last Thursday and have since put 108 miles on it. It was super quiet up until I hit about 40 miles and then I started hearing a creaking sound coming from the crank area, almost like a bad bottom bracket. Could be flex in the frame around the mounting screws to the motor? I brought it to my LBS and they tightened the crank arm screws. Still noisy. Any ideas? I’m planning to keep riding for another 100 miles and then I will bring it back in if it’s still noisy. Maybe it just needs time to settle in.
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GuruUno
Well-Known Member
Well, without starting a major dilemma with my expectations, I'm going to be looking for an extended warranty if not a replacement of some sort. I seem to believe we got lemons that were picked before their ripeness. Alternately, class action lawsuit, of course unless the terms and agreements force us to arbitration. This really, really sucks.
Over50
Well-Known Member
No ideas if everything is tightened to specifications. I had some creaking around the stem, when I put weight on the bars, early on but asked the shop to go back over the bike and ensure everything was tightened to correct torque specs. No more creaking.
Mine d
Mine does not sound like metal on metal scraping, at least not yet. It sounds more like bushings squeaking. Several reps at my LBS were puzzled by the sound. It's just annoying right now, but it does not appear like it's impacting performance. The bike is super fun to ride otherwise, hoping it doesn't develop into something more terrible.
Mine does not sound like metal on metal scraping, at least not yet. It sounds more like bushings squeaking. Several reps at my LBS were puzzled by the sound. It's just annoying right now, but it does not appear like it's impacting performance. The bike is super fun to ride otherwise, hoping it doesn't develop into something more terrible.
Alaskan
Well-Known Member
I heard from the Trek shop mechanic late yesterday. The new motor is in and there was still the noise.
He is now 70% certain that the problem is the shimano micro-spline hub. This is the hub that is needed for compatibility with the 12 speed shimano cassette. They were originally introduced by Shimano as the "Scylence hubs " but at least 50% of the were not so silent. I noticed right away when I first got the bike and was riding and I stopped pedaling that it went silent. During the glide there was no ratcheting noise coming from the freehub. Then it did start making something of a ratcheting sound like a normal bike but quieter after a bit, nothing alarming or that seemed amiss. It should not have done that. Shortly thereafter the "scratchy" sound started with hard pedaling.
Anyway, Joseph at Trek took apart the rear hub and is almost certain that is the problem. He has a new one coming on Monday and hopes to be calling me that all is well.
Stay tuned.
He is now 70% certain that the problem is the shimano micro-spline hub. This is the hub that is needed for compatibility with the 12 speed shimano cassette. They were originally introduced by Shimano as the "Scylence hubs " but at least 50% of the were not so silent. I noticed right away when I first got the bike and was riding and I stopped pedaling that it went silent. During the glide there was no ratcheting noise coming from the freehub. Then it did start making something of a ratcheting sound like a normal bike but quieter after a bit, nothing alarming or that seemed amiss. It should not have done that. Shortly thereafter the "scratchy" sound started with hard pedaling.
Anyway, Joseph at Trek took apart the rear hub and is almost certain that is the problem. He has a new one coming on Monday and hopes to be calling me that all is well.
Stay tuned.
Over50
Well-Known Member
I guess beta-testers for Shimano too .... my hub is noisy but I can't discern that it is anything abnormal ... the hub on my Haibike was noisy but totally normal in the buzzing sound ... and I suspected this was a hub rather than a motor issue from the beginning. Odd that the LBS couldn't diagnose that it was the hub. So, @Alaskan, you switched out the Shimano cassette with the SRAM, are there not a lot of hub options available rather than going with a replacement of the same?
Alaskan
Well-Known Member
Probably the best hub option for compatibility with the 12 speed shimano system are the Onyx hubs which are silent, have instant engagement and minimal drag (and cost $445).
www.fanatikbike.com
Who Is: Onyx Racing Products / Vesper Hub Update
We review Onyx's unique mountain bike hubs. Sprag clutch equipped, & offered in every axle size and color combination imaginable, from Boost 148 to Super Boost.
www.fanatikbike.com
Probably the best hub option for compatibility with the 12 speed shimano system are the Onyx hubs which are silent, have instant engagement and minimal drag (and cost $445).
Who Is: Onyx Racing Products / Vesper Hub Update
We review Onyx's unique mountain bike hubs. Sprag clutch equipped, & offered in every axle size and color combination imaginable, from Boost 148 to Super Boost.
I have Onyx hubs on my Moots Rogue YBB and they are awesome. Completely silent and super sharp engagement.
It's really weird that the bike shop could not accurately diagnose the problem the first time, it should be easy to distinguish hub issues vs crank related problems. My hub seems to be taking a while to break in, the freewheel buzzing sound is not consistent. The prawls make a sound initially and then it is silent until the next time I pedal and then coast. I still hear an odd squeaking sound on my bike after putting another 30 miles on it this weekend. I'm planning to put ~70 or so this week and then I will take it back in to my LBS if the issue persists.
@Alaskan, I hope they resolve your issue soon. Looking forward to hearing about the outcome.
GuruUno
Well-Known Member
Well, this opens up a whole new investigative issue regarding the Shimano Deore XT, 32h, centerlock disc, 12 mm thru-axle which is supposedly the part being ordered.
Now, if we have several users that have similar problems with this grinding or metal to metal scraping noise, is it that maybe there is/was a manufacturing defect for a certain batch?
And, is there some history of this Shimano Deore XT, 32h, centerlock disc, 12 mm thru-axle which is used on the Allant 9.9S on previous or other bikes?
How long has this model been out?
Is it due to the torque of an e-bike motor or other contributing factors that may have created this problem?
Excuse my ignorance, as I have zero knowledge of these specific components and quite frankly rely upon the "brand" (Trek) to have made decisions regarding the choice of components.
So, when all is said and done let's suppose the new parts solve the problem, for a similar period of time or slightly longer. And, is the replacement stock of the same 'run' or manufacture date that may ultimately fail?
What are the deciding factors for a bike manufacturer to chose in this instance a Shimano Deore XT, 32h, centerlock disc, 12 mm thru-axle other than cost? Why not another model or brand?
Just trying to understand it all. Watched some videos and now that I have a bit more knowledge, I'm curious as to the reasoning for choice. Especially for what I consider, to be a high end bike.
Now, if we have several users that have similar problems with this grinding or metal to metal scraping noise, is it that maybe there is/was a manufacturing defect for a certain batch?
And, is there some history of this Shimano Deore XT, 32h, centerlock disc, 12 mm thru-axle which is used on the Allant 9.9S on previous or other bikes?
How long has this model been out?
Is it due to the torque of an e-bike motor or other contributing factors that may have created this problem?
Excuse my ignorance, as I have zero knowledge of these specific components and quite frankly rely upon the "brand" (Trek) to have made decisions regarding the choice of components.
So, when all is said and done let's suppose the new parts solve the problem, for a similar period of time or slightly longer. And, is the replacement stock of the same 'run' or manufacture date that may ultimately fail?
What are the deciding factors for a bike manufacturer to chose in this instance a Shimano Deore XT, 32h, centerlock disc, 12 mm thru-axle other than cost? Why not another model or brand?
Just trying to understand it all. Watched some videos and now that I have a bit more knowledge, I'm curious as to the reasoning for choice. Especially for what I consider, to be a high end bike.
I unfortunately don't know the answers to many of the questions you posed, but the XT hub has been a pretty popular choice for mid range mountain bikes equipped with Shimano components. Not a great hub if you are into building your own wheels and such, but it's meant to take more of a beating by the nature of what it is designed for. I am sure Trek selected it since it's a cookie cutter option for them and the cost is low compared to third party hubs like i9, Chris King, and Onyx. It certainly should not crap out with <500 miles of use.
I initially considered buying the 8s instead of the 9 and then I was going to build my own wheels and upgrade the brakes to Magura MT5s. Now I kinda wish I would have since I'm not sure it was worth the cost for the manufacturer selected "upgraded" components. Carbon I guess...
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GuruUno
Well-Known Member
This is identical to the report back from my local Trek shop. However, the questions remain, un-replied to, whether it be Shimano or Trek, is this to be something moving forward a recurring problem or will it necessitate an alternate source to use instead of the original specification?
On another note, we (affected users) should be banding together to require that Trek extend our warranty due to this issue. Thoughts?
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