Finally got mine. Has anyone experienced a jumpy cadence sensor?
I also feel it in PAS1. Is it due to the gap as you mentioned before in other posts? I find it jumpy when the PAS kicks in. Can that be lowered?Lookin good! What PAS level is it jumpy? Only in PAS1 have I experienced any jumpiness when battling that 13-14mph zone on flat or uphill areas where the regen tries to kick on.
Rode ten miles here in Portland, OR today. It was sunny and in the upper 50's. Plenty of hills to use EPAS on. It just flat out works. I did lose one bar, but quickly got got it back on the last couple of hills on my way back home. Got home noticed it was full again. Waited 30 minutes before i went to charge it. The green light lasted 5 seconds before turning red, thus ending the charge. So yeah i can confirm that you can do ten miles on a route with hills and not lose a bar of power. But of course i was very mindful of utilizing the EPAS technology while riding. But it's so simple to drop down to Pas1 or Pas0 during downhills and whenever coasting (no throttle or pedal) over 14 mph. Anyone else have a similar experience?
Finally got mine. Has anyone experienced a jumpy cadence sensor?
Here it is. Looks like what you dealt with. Im going to do the same and silicone adhesive the gap after tapping it inWe are flying blind with most of this stuff. Look back to post 28 in this thread. I posted photos of mine with a largeish gap between the sensor and the crank tube. I gently tapped (rubber mallet) the sensor so the gap was gone and used silicon sealant to keep it in place. There was no negative effect but I am not sure it did anything positive other than to ease my mind. Post a photo of the cadence if you get a chance.
My cadence sensor had an open gap (I could see through to the ground) and that's why I decided to tap it into the crank tube and seal it up.Here it is. Looks like what you dealt with. Im going to do the same and silicone adhesive the gap after tapping it in
I think yours looks like it is seated pretty well. Here is the photo of mine for comparison.Here it is. Looks like what you dealt with. Im going to do the same and silicone adhesive the gap after tapping it in
Cool. I guess it's all about getting comfortable with the pas on. I'm going to leave things as is for now. I can't wait to take this when i go bass fishing. I'm going to be able to hit more spots than i normally doM'sy cadence sensor had an open gap ( I could see through to the ground) and that's why I decided to tap it into the crank tube and seal it up.
I think yours looks like it is seated pretty well. Here is the photo of mine for comparison.
Has anyone noticed any performance differences when changing the # of levels? I heard that the more levels, the more top end speed. Any truth to that?
Fold your stem down and tighten it some more. Looks like you didn't tighten it enough. I don't have that issue. Its either loose or incorrectly put in placeAnyone else have a slight looseness in the steering stem that makes a sound (like if you push your stem forward it wiggles). And if so has anyone figured out how to stop it? In the pics you can barely see how the stem sits back, and then forward with pushed forward.
Nice. Looks like it being loose created a gap and that was the rattling culprit. Good job. Should ride better nowAfter taking the handle bars all the way off and still noticing it, I found it was this ring that was slightly loose! Little wrenchin and now its jiggle-free, shwew!