Winter e-biking advices

[Handlebars]

I find the clothing for comfortable cold winter ebiking is pretty much the same as for downhill skiing. Like skiing, your going fast, holding on to metal sticks and moving your legs alot.
The great thing is, if you get a bit chilled you just lower the assist while maintaining the speed and you'll warm up quickly.

I can vouch for these gloves at costco. amazing deal at $20
View attachment 42399
The dexterity isn't great, so if you have a lot of small buttons to push that can be annoying, but they are easy to slip on and off and they have a zippered pocket on the back for a hot pack. To regulate the hot pack temperature just open the zip more to make it hotter (allows more oxygen to react) Hot packs can be "turned off" just by putting them in a ziplock and squeezing all the air out. I find I can get a full two days of skiing out of one set, but it's not cold enough to need them on the bike.

I have those and they are good...but they do cut down dexterity which makes for increased susceptibility to the cold air, for me. If no bar mitt or such was available to block the cold wind, I'd use them to ride with, using hot pack. By the time the roads are clear and dry this week I'll have some kind of contraption made to block the airflow. Carboard and duct tape fairing and 2 hot packs could solve the cold fingers problem tout suite.

 

[Ebiker01]

Here’s a really fantastic pair of Sunglasses. Wind protection and polarized.

It feels like you are inside a very cozy, warm and protective temple while you are Wearing them.
Amazing quality, details, and construction materials.
This are the Cybertruck of sunglasses.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Here’s a really fantastic pair of Sunglasses. Wind protection and polarized.

Look nice. The only thing that might be incorrect for dull winter days is the glass in colored. For sunshine days it's okay.

 

[ebikemom]

I avoid riding when the roads are frozen as well as after dark (trying to survive to keep raising my kids), which limits me some. For clothing, Pacific NW riding, here is my (female) perspective on what has been working well for me. Temperatures are mid 30's through lower 50's:

LIGHTS:
--Built in bicycle front and rear lights
--Front accessory white flashing light
--Rear accessory red flashing light

Head:
--Pashmina scarf, folded in half lengthwise to make it double-thickness, wrapped around top of head (covering ears), then lower face, then tied in the back, with helmet on top. This provides head, ear, and face protection.
--Standard eyeglasses

Hands:
--Clear plastic and ripstop nylon fairings attached to each handlebar (homemade) to block wind from hands
--Standard cycling gloves

Top:
--Whatever I'm wearing that day, topped with a Columbia full-zip fleece and a water-proof brightly colored Columbia rain jacket
--Traffic safety vest in high-viz orange and yellow with reflective striping

Bottom:
--Rain pants over whatever I'm wearing. I wear these if it might rain and/or for wind protection on cold dry days.

Feet, one of the following:
--Standard bootie-type shoe, not waterproof (if I know it will not rain), sometimes with a clear plastic cover boot (if I think it might rain)
--Duck boots. I do love these for winter cycling, but don't use if I need more professional looking footwear.

AND: I have additional dry clothing at work, and if I choose not to wear the rain pants or a plastic boot of some kind, I pack them along.

 

[Ebiker01]

Look nice. The only thing that might be incorrect for dull winter days is the glass in colored. For sunshine days it's okay.

The lenses are superbly clear and like i said polarized. I’d like to get another one with the clear to dark lenses for night time Riding

 

[tomjasz]

Check out Opticus.com they make lenses for polar expeditions. They produced a pair similar to Vuarnet PX5000. Superior snow lenses. But way to dark with only 4-11% light entering. In the summer they’re to dark. But in snow, incredible. Glacier glasses. Like Vuarnet they accentuate details in the snow. Invaluable when skiing moguls, or winter daylight riding.

 

[Nomad]

Windchill factored at 20F (-7C) and 15MPH is -5F (-20C). Gloves just don’t cut it for me unless heated or in muffs. Maybe you’re just a tougher rider. Today it’s 27F with 93% humidity, it bites! A bit warmer in Conway but you do get damn cold too. Do you ride much in winter?

I am this winter but old school no assist and 20 f isn't uncommon here. Oh and I wasn't saying don't use hand warms when needed I buy those in bulk at wally world there mint! I've been working out doors for a number of years and being use to it does help but, truth is secret weapons like wool and layering go along way! OOPS my secrets out. Some people say spare no expense others say be cheap I say do what's economical.

 

[Mass Deduction]

Don't forget good gloves... they need to be warm and they need to be waterproof. (Wet gloves would make you freeze your fingers real quickly.) And you still need to be able to operate the brakes and gears and probably other controls. I'm still looking for the right gloves.

Good gloves are a must, but I'd also recommend Bar Mitts for winter riding as you approach freezing temperatures, or if you're riding a class 3 bike as that will significantly increase the windchill factor. Check out http://www.barmitts.com/

 

[Mass Deduction]

A thick 6-10mm Neoprene battery cover is a must for temp. Below 55F ! That will keep the liquid inside the cells warm and healthy.

55F is apparently about 13C. That's not very cold, IMO. I would have guessed battery covers would start to be relevant only at lower temperatures.

Would it be worth a cover if you keep the bike indoors until you're ready to ride? It seems to me if the bike was at room temperature, and then the battery starts producing some heat due to operation, and the temperature is above freezing, that you'd probably not need a cover. But maybe I'm wrong?

I wonder what the trend towards batteries in the downtube means for insulating batteries, for that matter.

 

[Mass Deduction]

Oh, no... Next buy...


I have got good gloves and I completely agree winter riding is impossible without.


A balaclava means trouble for those wearing glasses. I use a warm hood to protect my neck and lover part of the face. Head and ears are protected by a lined snowboarding helmet.


My prescription glasses protect me well but goggles would be a nice addition for freezing condition and against snow.


I was wearing this gear today at 44 F, windy, light occasional rain. No need for the neck hood yet. At the end of my ride I badly needed toe warmers (already ordered).

View attachment 41236

Bicycle balaclavas have very thin material, so you might make it work with glasses. I have before (though I'm speaking of sunglasses, not prescription glasses, when I say that.

Lately I wear a headband, but I put it on my forehead and pull it down to the back of my neck which also pulls it down over my ears. I usually just live with my cheeks and neck being exposed when it's relatively mild, but I stop shaving and let my facial hair grow in when we are predicted to get hit by a cold snap. Though, where I live, our cold snaps are still usually above freezing for the daytime highs.

And yes, I know not everyone can grow facial hair. Just thought I'd share what works for me, despite that.

 

[Ebiker01]

55F is apparently about 13C. That's not very cold, IMO. I would have guessed battery covers would start to be relevant only at lower temperatures.

Would it be worth a cover if you keep the bike indoors until you're ready to ride? It seems to me if the bike was at room temperature, and then the battery starts producing some heat due to operation, and the temperature is above freezing, that you'd probably not need a cover. But maybe I'm wrong?

I wonder what the trend towards batteries in the downtube means for insulating batteries, for that matter.

55 is still cold for the cells. 70-80F is their ideal temp.
Anything over 60 or even 55 is good enough.

If inside , i charge it for 30-45min. Before leaving and that warms it up a bit and i also keep cover on during winter when inside.
Then once out and riding and with cover on itvwill stay warm . But leaving it outside for longer then 30min. Even with the cover on In cold is not good.

I use a custom Aerogel+ Neoprene cover.
In their tests for aerogel 10mm thick membrane , It can get as cold as -300F believe it or not , it still protects. Aerogel is Nasa stuff; very , very good insulation.
Google , youtube it.

I usually put the cover in November and leave it on until end of March. When i swap the batteries on a long ride i take it out, then back on.
each one of my battery has a 10mm aerogel cover then once inside the downtube , the whole area is covered with the neoprene zipped cover. It’s a little tight, i should have used the 3mm membrane . I will probably changed it as a 10cmX15cm is about 15$. It needs 2 of those for my 605wh bat.
I needed the neoprene b/c on the downTube area The way i did it, i could not apply/ use the aerogel material. I wrapped the battery with it only.
Allthough i could do a whole cover aerogel insert inside a zipped neoprene.
Would need a Singer Sewing machine.


I may offer them for sale eventually, as that would be the ultimate protection for a battery.
I would need the original cover and will create a custom cover based on that one’s dimensions.
Maybe 95-135$. The battery will NOT loose any efficiency at -30 or -300F. That is on Mars.


Ps- sorry for the spelling/grammar/punctuation mistakes. Just wanted to lay it down fast...

 

[Mass Deduction]

55 is still cold for the cells. 70-80F is their ideal temp.
Anything over 60 or even 55 is good enough.

If inside , i charge it for 30-45min. Before leaving and that warms it up a bit and i also keep cover on during winter when inside.
Then once out and riding and with cover on itvwill stay warm . But leaving it outside for longer then 30min. Even with the cover on In cold is not good.

I use a custom Aerogel+ Neoprene cover.
In their tests for aerogel 10mm thick membrane , It can get as cold as -300F believe it or not , it still protects. Aerogel is Nasa stuff; very , very good insulation.
Google , youtube it.

I usually put the cover in November and leave it on until end of March. When i swap the batteries on a long ride i take it out, then back on.
each one of my battery has a 10mm aerogel cover then once inside the downtube , the whole area is covered with the neoprene zipped cover. It’s a little tight, i should have used the 3mm membrane . I will probably changed it as a 10cmX15cm is about 15$. It needs 2 of those for my 605wh bat.
I needed the neoprene b/c on the downTube area The way i did it, i could not apply/ use the aerogel material. I wrapped the battery with it only.
Allthough i could do a whole cover aerogel insert inside a zipped neoprene.
Would need a Singer Sewing machine.


I may offer them for sale eventually, as that would be the ultimate protection for a battery.
I would need the original cover and will create a custom cover based on that one’s dimensions.
Maybe 95-135$. The battery will NOT loose any efficiency at -30 or -300F. That is on Mars.


Ps- sorry for the spelling/grammar/punctuation mistakes. Just wanted to lay it down fast...

Interesting. I may give it a try. My e-bikes are always inside when not in use, and my winter trips are typically relatively short (approx. a half hour or less?) and typically not in freezing temperatures. But perhaps I could nonetheless reap a sufficient advantage here to make it worth the investment. I appreciate your information, I will definitely investigate this more!

 

[steve mercier]

I never bother with any of that. I bring the batteries in the house when it gets near freezing. Otherwise they stay in an unheated garage.

 

[lindo3000]

Hi! I live in Toronto and deliver for Uber Eats on my Stromer ST1 about 6 - 8 hours a day, 6 - 7 days a week, this will be my 3rd winter doing this on my ebike. Here are my 2 cents:

For any off-road/ice/snow riding you really need studded tires, I like the Shwalbe marathon winter plus tires the best. This doesn't mean you can't ride in winter, but really only when the roads are clear. It's not worth taking a spill ever, especially on an expensive ride and when you've got somewhere to be.

Salt is the enemy, I always clean my bike after the roads have been salted. Fenders are a must, still I find my cassette especially gets crusty and the freewheel makes a grinding noise after a while. I just swap the cassette out for a new one come spring.

Cycling clothes are overpriced in my opinion. My ideal clothing for the road starts with a t-shirt, a thermal under layer, (top and bottom), a pair of warm track pants and hoodie, 1 pair of gym socks under 1 pair of merino wool socks, some good leather boots (I bike in Blundstones year round, in the winter I wear the leather-lined ones, in the summer just the plain ones). When it's really cold I slap on some heated soles (you can buy a pack from dollarama for super cheap). I wear a pair of $20 M.E.C rain cycling pants and a big yellow raincoat over top.

I use a snowmobile/ski helmet in the winter, it looks like a bike helmet but it covers the ears and has an insulated layer. It also is designed so ski goggles can fit over top. I don't often need the goggles down (it slightly limits my vision) but they are nice to have especially when tacking straight into the wind.

I wear a cloth bandana on my lower face. I've gone through 4 different cycling face mask setups and never liked any of them, they inhibit breathing, they never seem to fit quite right and I always end up getting too hot in them. The mask I do use in extreme temps is a Rock Bros with slits for air intake. I use a pair of small finger gloves up to around -5c, after that I use a pair of insulated ski gloves. I find my hands never get as cold as I think they will.

Not last but not least - battery management in cold weather. Always bring your battery inside and let it warm up a bit before charging. I find my system gets sluggish around -5c, you gotta jack the hell out of the throttle/pedal assist on full power for a bit to get the wires heated up, once the system is warmed up you should have less troubles, but covering all your electrics as best you can in neoprene or other insulate is a really good idea. Also clean out all your connections then coat in some dielectric grease for good measure. Salt and snow can get on your bike and melt into the vulnerable connection spots, identify those and use electrical tape to cover everything extra nice.

Hydraulic brakes are a god-send, worth upgrading any bike to have them, they work a lot better in cold weather climates than cable brakes, and the lines are completely covered so no worries of rust or corrosion.

If you get cold, pedal harder and built up some body heat, if you're layered and insulated properly you should be able to retain that heat pretty well. Avoid breaking a sweat, if you feel yourself heating up too much vent out a bit and let your body temperature drop down to a more reasonable level, any sweat you break will be hard to get rid of under layers and can be really uncomfortable.

Oh ya and you can never have enough lights, anything 20 plus lumens is good for basic visibility, get them usb rechargeable. Get a more powerful lamp for the front of you want, just keep it angled downward on bike paths so your not blinding everyone else on the path coming the other way.

As always, assume noone can see you until you make eye contact, this goes doubly in winter with low visibility and reduced stopping power on wet/snowy roads.

Ride safe and remember: there is such a thing as bad weather and if you feel bad vibes about riding, that's your instinct telling you to be careful.

Cheers!

 

[steve mercier]

Hi! I live in Toronto and deliver for Uber Eats on my Stromer ST1 about 6 - 8 hours a day, 6 - 7 days a week, this will be my 3rd winter doing this on my ebike. Here are my 2 cents:

For any off-road/ice/snow riding you really need studded tires, I like the Shwalbe marathon winter plus tires the best. This doesn't mean you can't ride in winter, but really only when the roads are clear. It's not worth taking a spill ever, especially on an expensive ride and when you've got somewhere to be.

Salt is the enemy, I always clean my bike after the roads have been salted. Fenders are a must, still I find my cassette especially gets crusty and the freewheel makes a grinding noise after a while. I just swap the cassette out for a new one come spring.

Cycling clothes are overpriced in my opinion. My ideal clothing for the road starts with a t-shirt, a thermal under layer, (top and bottom), a pair of warm track pants and hoodie, 1 pair of gym socks under 1 pair of merino wool socks, some good leather boots (I bike in Blundstones year round, in the winter I wear the leather-lined ones, in the summer just the plain ones). When it's really cold I slap on some heated soles (you can buy a pack from dollarama for super cheap). I wear a pair of $20 M.E.C rain cycling pants and a big yellow raincoat over top.

I use a snowmobile/ski helmet in the winter, it looks like a bike helmet but it covers the ears and has an insulated layer. It also is designed so ski goggles can fit over top. I don't often need the goggles down (it slightly limits my vision) but they are nice to have especially when tacking straight into the wind.

I wear a cloth bandana on my lower face. I've gone through 4 different cycling face mask setups and never liked any of them, they inhibit breathing, they never seem to fit quite right and I always end up getting too hot in them. The mask I do use in extreme temps is a Rock Bros with slits for air intake. I use a pair of small finger gloves up to around -5c, after that I use a pair of insulated ski gloves. I find my hands never get as cold as I think they will.

Not last but not least - battery management in cold weather. Always bring your battery inside and let it warm up a bit before charging. I find my system gets sluggish around -5c, you gotta jack the hell out of the throttle/pedal assist on full power for a bit to get the wires heated up, once the system is warmed up you should have less troubles, but covering all your electrics as best you can in neoprene or other insulate is a really good idea. Also clean out all your connections then coat in some dielectric grease for good measure. Salt and snow can get on your bike and melt into the vulnerable connection spots, identify those and use electrical tape to cover everything extra nice.

Hydraulic brakes are a god-send, worth upgrading any bike to have them, they work a lot better in cold weather climates than cable brakes, and the lines are completely covered so no worries of rust or corrosion.

If you get cold, pedal harder and built up some body heat, if you're layered and insulated properly you should be able to retain that heat pretty well. Avoid breaking a sweat, if you feel yourself heating up too much vent out a bit and let your body temperature drop down to a more reasonable level, any sweat you break will be hard to get rid of under layers and can be really uncomfortable.

Oh ya and you can never have enough lights, anything 20 plus lumens is good for basic visibility, get them usb rechargeable. Get a more powerful lamp for the front of you want, just keep it angled downward on bike paths so your not blinding everyone else on the path coming the other way.

As always, assume noone can see you until you make eye contact, this goes doubly in winter with low visibility and reduced stopping power on wet/snowy roads.

Ride safe and remember: there is such a thing as bad weather and if you feel bad vibes about riding, that's your instinct telling you to be careful.

Cheers!

Great post and welcome!

 

[steve mercier]

A typical Winter day around here. Dark and grey , but most often above freezing. Nowadays it threatens more than rains. Only 2 weeks until the days start getting longer ...Yippee!

 

[Mass Deduction]

Hi! I live in Toronto and deliver for Uber Eats on my Stromer ST1 about 6 - 8 hours a day, 6 - 7 days a week, this will be my 3rd winter doing this on my ebike. Here are my 2 cents:

For any off-road/ice/snow riding you really need studded tires, I like the Shwalbe marathon winter plus tires the best. This doesn't mean you can't ride in winter, but really only when the roads are clear. It's not worth taking a spill ever, especially on an expensive ride and when you've got somewhere to be.

Salt is the enemy, I always clean my bike after the roads have been salted. Fenders are a must, still I find my cassette especially gets crusty and the freewheel makes a grinding noise after a while. I just swap the cassette out for a new one come spring.

Cycling clothes are overpriced in my opinion. My ideal clothing for the road starts with a t-shirt, a thermal under layer, (top and bottom), a pair of warm track pants and hoodie, 1 pair of gym socks under 1 pair of merino wool socks, some good leather boots (I bike in Blundstones year round, in the winter I wear the leather-lined ones, in the summer just the plain ones). When it's really cold I slap on some heated soles (you can buy a pack from dollarama for super cheap). I wear a pair of $20 M.E.C rain cycling pants and a big yellow raincoat over top.

I use a snowmobile/ski helmet in the winter, it looks like a bike helmet but it covers the ears and has an insulated layer. It also is designed so ski goggles can fit over top. I don't often need the goggles down (it slightly limits my vision) but they are nice to have especially when tacking straight into the wind.

I wear a cloth bandana on my lower face. I've gone through 4 different cycling face mask setups and never liked any of them, they inhibit breathing, they never seem to fit quite right and I always end up getting too hot in them. The mask I do use in extreme temps is a Rock Bros with slits for air intake. I use a pair of small finger gloves up to around -5c, after that I use a pair of insulated ski gloves. I find my hands never get as cold as I think they will.

Not last but not least - battery management in cold weather. Always bring your battery inside and let it warm up a bit before charging. I find my system gets sluggish around -5c, you gotta jack the hell out of the throttle/pedal assist on full power for a bit to get the wires heated up, once the system is warmed up you should have less troubles, but covering all your electrics as best you can in neoprene or other insulate is a really good idea. Also clean out all your connections then coat in some dielectric grease for good measure. Salt and snow can get on your bike and melt into the vulnerable connection spots, identify those and use electrical tape to cover everything extra nice.

Hydraulic brakes are a god-send, worth upgrading any bike to have them, they work a lot better in cold weather climates than cable brakes, and the lines are completely covered so no worries of rust or corrosion.

If you get cold, pedal harder and built up some body heat, if you're layered and insulated properly you should be able to retain that heat pretty well. Avoid breaking a sweat, if you feel yourself heating up too much vent out a bit and let your body temperature drop down to a more reasonable level, any sweat you break will be hard to get rid of under layers and can be really uncomfortable.

Oh ya and you can never have enough lights, anything 20 plus lumens is good for basic visibility, get them usb rechargeable. Get a more powerful lamp for the front of you want, just keep it angled downward on bike paths so your not blinding everyone else on the path coming the other way.

As always, assume noone can see you until you make eye contact, this goes doubly in winter with low visibility and reduced stopping power on wet/snowy roads.

Ride safe and remember: there is such a thing as bad weather and if you feel bad vibes about riding, that's your instinct telling you to be careful.

Cheers!

You work on an e-bike 6-8 hours a day, 6-7 days a week, and this is your third winter doing this? I'm not worthy! Thank you for the comprehensive post, it's appreciated. Keep it coming!

Out here on the wet coast it's a little different. Cycling-specific clothing is the order of the day because breathability is more important than insulation. And it's a wetter cold, so my hands are almost always colder than they ought to be (meaning, gloves that say they're good down to -10C will struggle even in the 0-5C range. So it is really interesting to read about your experience in Toronto and how different it is!

Hmmm... Uber Eats by e-bike? How is that? That might be as fast or faster than doing it by car, and you probably save time on the parking side as you can ride right up to near the doors of both the restaurants and the people you're delivering to. Plus you'll be slowed down by traffic less than cars. Genius! Hard core when it comes to the winter, but nonetheless genius!

 

[steve mercier]

Hi! I live in Toronto and deliver for Uber Eats on my Stromer ST1 about 6 - 8 hours a day, 6 - 7 days a week, this will be my 3rd winter doing this on my ebike. Here are my 2 cents:

For any off-road/ice/snow riding you really need studded tires, I like the Shwalbe marathon winter plus tires the best. This doesn't mean you can't ride in winter, but really only when the roads are clear. It's not worth taking a spill ever, especially on an expensive ride and when you've got somewhere to be.

Salt is the enemy, I always clean my bike after the roads have been salted. Fenders are a must, still I find my cassette especially gets crusty and the freewheel makes a grinding noise after a while. I just swap the cassette out for a new one come spring.

Cycling clothes are overpriced in my opinion. My ideal clothing for the road starts with a t-shirt, a thermal under layer, (top and bottom), a pair of warm track pants and hoodie, 1 pair of gym socks under 1 pair of merino wool socks, some good leather boots (I bike in Blundstones year round, in the winter I wear the leather-lined ones, in the summer just the plain ones). When it's really cold I slap on some heated soles (you can buy a pack from dollarama for super cheap). I wear a pair of $20 M.E.C rain cycling pants and a big yellow raincoat over top.

I use a snowmobile/ski helmet in the winter, it looks like a bike helmet but it covers the ears and has an insulated layer. It also is designed so ski goggles can fit over top. I don't often need the goggles down (it slightly limits my vision) but they are nice to have especially when tacking straight into the wind.

I wear a cloth bandana on my lower face. I've gone through 4 different cycling face mask setups and never liked any of them, they inhibit breathing, they never seem to fit quite right and I always end up getting too hot in them. The mask I do use in extreme temps is a Rock Bros with slits for air intake. I use a pair of small finger gloves up to around -5c, after that I use a pair of insulated ski gloves. I find my hands never get as cold as I think they will.

Not last but not least - battery management in cold weather. Always bring your battery inside and let it warm up a bit before charging. I find my system gets sluggish around -5c, you gotta jack the hell out of the throttle/pedal assist on full power for a bit to get the wires heated up, once the system is warmed up you should have less troubles, but covering all your electrics as best you can in neoprene or other insulate is a really good idea. Also clean out all your connections then coat in some dielectric grease for good measure. Salt and snow can get on your bike and melt into the vulnerable connection spots, identify those and use electrical tape to cover everything extra nice.

Hydraulic brakes are a god-send, worth upgrading any bike to have them, they work a lot better in cold weather climates than cable brakes, and the lines are completely covered so no worries of rust or corrosion.

If you get cold, pedal harder and built up some body heat, if you're layered and insulated properly you should be able to retain that heat pretty well. Avoid breaking a sweat, if you feel yourself heating up too much vent out a bit and let your body temperature drop down to a more reasonable level, any sweat you break will be hard to get rid of under layers and can be really uncomfortable.

Oh ya and you can never have enough lights, anything 20 plus lumens is good for basic visibility, get them usb rechargeable. Get a more powerful lamp for the front of you want, just keep it angled downward on bike paths so your not blinding everyone else on the path coming the other way.

As always, assume noone can see you until you make eye contact, this goes doubly in winter with low visibility and reduced stopping power on wet/snowy roads.

Ride safe and remember: there is such a thing as bad weather and if you feel bad vibes about riding, that's your instinct telling you to be careful.

Cheers!

Am I correct in assuming that If you get in a car accident you will be on your own and not be covered by any insurance as an Uber employee? That seems unfair to me.

 

[tomjasz]

Good gloves are a must, but I'd also recommend Bar Mitts for winter riding as you approach freezing temperatures, or if you're riding a class 3 bike as that will significantly increase the windchill factor. Check out http://www.barmitts.com/

Ouch! $75-$125? My $20 pair in their 10th season. Admittedly some minor retrofitting but $50-$100 still in my wallet.

Do they ship with the signage printed on? That’s a pet peeve here. I finally found a triangle battery bag I like butthey blazed their name across. I complained, they did a run without the signage and it sold out. A minor but valid complaint for builders. Some sellers want their names blazing on every item. Often giving the impression the product was designed in house, when in fact it’s just a name tag ala eRad and Luna.

 

[Mulezen]

Another Toronto winter experience

How to Ride Your E-Bike All Winter

It's a little bit different from how you ride your bike, but not much.

www.treehugger.com