Tubeless on 2022 Vado/Como 5.0's?

[GuruUno]

Has anyone done it?
Preferred products?

Wheels & Tires

support.specialized.com

Although the rim is not specifically made to be tubeless compatible, it can be converted through the following steps:

1. Either purchase Schrader-specific tubeless valves for an 8.5mm valve hole or take care installing a regular tubeless valve as follows:
   1. a. Choose a valve with a conical sealing head that seals the larger hole well
   2. b. Use a tubeless valve compression ring with a step design (see image 4 below) so that the valve centers better in the larger hole
2. 30 mm self-adhesive tubeless rim tape is recommended. It should overlap by two layers at the valve hole, especially if using a presta tubeless valve.
3. Pierce a small hole through the tape at the valve hole. Make sure the valve stem seals properly at the rim bed.
4. Follow the regular steps for tubeless setup, found here: https://support.specialized.com/tires/en/tubeless-conversion/installation-tips

1. Ensure both your rim and tire are tubeless compatible before proceeding
2. Inspect the rim for dents or cracks and check rim plugs or rim tape to ensure a good seal
3. Remove any old sealant
4. Install tubeless valve stems and tighten the nut by hand to snug the valve to the rim
5. Install the tire by hand with the rotation arrow pointing in the correct direction
6. Add sealant
   --Install both sides of the tire if you will add sealant through the valve stem
   --Leave a gap on one side of the tire if you will add sealant directly inside the tire; rotate the tire after adding sealant to finish installing the tire without spilling sealant
7. Check that the tire bead is centered on the rim
8. Inflate the tire to the maximum pressure listed on the rim or tire (choose the lower maximum) and ride your bike for 5 minutes to set the tire
9. Reduce tire pressure to your preferred riding pressure

 

[Sparky731]

I went tubeless this past summer after 3 flats last winter — I was using Slime, which works once you get the thorn out. My new tires are Panaracer Gravelkings. Just one of many good tires to choose from. Just hope you never have a non-sealable puncture because there is virtually no way to fix a tubeless flat on the trail.

 

[GuruUno]

I went tubeless this past summer after 3 flats last winter — I was using Slime, which works once you get the thorn out. My new tires are Panaracer Gravelkings. Just one of many good tires to choose from. Just hope you never have a non-sealable puncture because there is virtually no way to fix a tubeless flat on the trail.

Do you mean if it is an unrepairable flat when tubeless, a spare tube cannot be used like normal?

 

[BioWheel]

Do you mean if it is an unrepairable flat when tubeless, a spare tube cannot be used like normal?

So really - you might as well not go tubeless. Agree GU

 

[GuruUno]

So really - you might as well not go tubeless. Agree GU

I appreciate the reply, but I'm not sure what you are saying.....do you mean you can not use a tube in an emergency when needed? IF that is so, they why would one be in such a situation that if they got an unrepairable flat they would be stuck and have to wait to be rescued or walk to the point of assistance?

 

[BioWheel]

I'm saying - if you have to carry a tube - use a tube.

 

[GuruUno]

I'm saying - if you have to carry a tube - use a tube.

But you said “So really - you might as well not go tubeless”

 

[BioWheel]

You're right. Sorry.

 

[nope]

So really - you might as well not go tubeless. Agree GU

The tubeless valve stem would have to be removed to install a tube.

 

[kahn]

I see that there are patch kits for larger holes but I imagine that only goes so far. Too big a hole probably can't be field repaired.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I see that there are patch kits for larger holes but I imagine that only goes so far. Too big a hole probably can't be field repaired.

There are basically three ways to fix a punctured tubeless tyre:

• Let the sealant do its work. It works in most of cases (I experienced that myself on my e-MTB)
• Apply a "bacon strip" with an "awl" from outside: the standard tools for a tubeless field repair
• In case of a wide cut (especially of the sidewall), there is a way. Remove the tyre (a lot of mess), and stick a folded dollar bill from the inside (it will get glued by the remaining sealant). Replace the tyre and re-inflate.

Necessary to mention the majority of punctures will get sealed by the sealant, often even not noticed by the rider. In case of a puncture by a nail, it is enough to stop, let the sealant work for a quarter, then re-inflate. A tyre cut so widely as to require the inner patch only happens to MTBers riding rocks. And the most interesting:

-- 'I used to experience, say, six punctures a year with the tubed setup' -- my gravel cycling mate told me -- 'but no puncture since I went tubeless'.

I would be happy to go tubeless on my e-bikes but first of all I am afraid their rims would not like going tubeless; and I replace tyres for the winter.

 

[Sparky731]

There are basically three ways to fix a punctured tubeless tyre:

• Let the sealant do its work. It works in most of cases (I experienced that myself on my e-MTB)
• Apply a "bacon strip" with an "awl" from outside: the standard tools for a tubeless field repair
• In case of a wide cut (especially of the sidewall), there is a way. Remove the tyre (a lot of mess), and stick a folded dollar bill from the inside (it will get glued by the remaining sealant). Replace the tyre and re-inflate.

Necessary to mention the majority of punctures will get sealed by the sealant, often even not noticed by the rider. In case of a puncture by a nail, it is enough to stop, let the sealant work for a quarter, then re-inflate. A tyre cut so widely as to require the inner patch only happens to MTBers riding rocks. And the most interesting:

-- 'I used to experience, say, six punctures a year with the tubed setup' -- my gravel cycling mate told me -- 'but no puncture since I went tubeless'.

I would be happy to go tubeless on my e-bikes but first of all I am afraid their rims would not like going tubeless; and I replace tyres for the winter.

I agree on all points re: the hassle of repairing a punctured tubeless tire — a puncture the sealant cannot seal. It is a messy job and you need fingers of steel to break the bead — and then somehow reset the bead without a tire strap.

I have a bit over 1k miles on my tubeless and top-off the air pressure weekly —assuming leaks are happening but the sealant is doing its job.

Talk to repair shops about tube vs. tubeless. Tubeless is always the recommendation if your wheels can support them.

 

[kahn]

I agree on all points re: the hassle of repairing a punctured tubeless tire — a puncture the sealant cannot seal. It is a messy job and you need fingers of steel to break the bead — and then somehow reset the bead without a tire strap.

I have a bit over 1k miles on my tubeless and top-off the air pressure weekly —assuming leaks are happening but the sealant is doing its job.

Talk to repair shops about tube vs. tubeless. Tubeless is always the recommendation if your wheels can support them.

That's what I did and got very mixed reviews from some old hands and actually some young hands at the local bike shop. Still on air and inner tubes!

 

[mschwett]

Do you mean if it is an unrepairable flat when tubeless, a spare tube cannot be used like normal?

a tube can be used in a badly flatted tubeless tire, assuming the thing isn’t so trashed that it won’t hold the tube to shape, or won’t stay on the wheel. it‘s a mess though, pop one side of the tire off, remove the tubeless valve, stuff a tube in the tire, get the half of the tire back on the rim, inflate and hope you have enough air/power to get the bead seated again. sealant all over.

 

[Chrisgla]

I've been running Schwalbe 40mm tubeless on Creo for 6 months, no punctures. Took wheel off as someone T-boned me, found a 3-5mm bit of glass sealed in tyre. Tyre was still up, don't know how glass has been there.

My backup wheels have 28mm Conti 4 seasons, they've been on one week and had puncture today- found two snakebites even though I had a bone rattling 75psi in them!

I'll be glad to get back to my 40mm tubeless cushions running at almost half the pressure!

Surprisingly rolling resistance doesn't seem noticeably different between the two tyres, tubeless really does seem to offset the increased RR of lower pressure.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I've been running Schwalbe 40mm tubeless on Creo for 6 months, no punctures. Took wheel off as someone T-boned me, found a 3-5mm bit of glass sealed in tyre. Tyre was still up, don't know how glass has been there.

My backup wheels have 28mm Conti 4 seasons, they've been on one week and had puncture today- found two snakebites even though I had a bone rattling 75psi in them!

I'll be glad to get back to my 40mm tubeless cushions running at almost half the pressure!

Surprisingly rolling resistance doesn't seem noticeably different between the two tyres, tubeless really does seem to offset the increased RR of lower pressure.

Creo has tubeless-ready rims. Nobody denies going tubeless is good. However, Vado discussed here is not equipped with specific TR rims. It is a gamble to give it a try.