Spoke tension adjustment...

[Wetstuff]

As a geezer with too much curiosity and time, I watched a video on Spoke Tension. Hmmmmm... I put this rear trike wheel in my lap and did a round-and-round ..top/bottom One spoke was -4 under the general 3-32 kg range and one was 4> over. They're all balanced now! My next project is to see if I can get a bit of wobble out of my RR wheel. There's a fellow in FL who did a nice YouTube demonstration on how to do it easily.. I likely will make it harder, but press on...

Jim/Salsbury MD

 

[PCeBiker]

I bought the same spoke tension gauge.
It's got a adjustment screw on it so you can calibrate it.

My next project is to see if I can get a bit of wobble out of my RR wheel.
.. I likely will make it harder, but press on...

I had countless hours of fun warping and unwarping my wheels.

Left and right wobbles aren't too bad to straighten out, but I've always had problems trying to get rid of a flat spot or high spot.

The worst part is when you end up making a flat spot trying to get rid of a left-right wobble.

You have to try to loosen spokes one way as much as you tighten spokes the other way to avoid making flat spots or high spots.

 

[Marcela]

I've wobbled more wheels with one of those. The last few I've done I do by the wheel truing stand and gauges keeping them straight and true and when I'm done I'll check with the tension gauge to see where I am at. I am usually on the low side and have to go around tightening by 1/8 or 1/4 turn in the end. Be careful if the hub is offset or one spoked side longer than the other, one side will always be lower on tension. I figure if the gauge shows them within a certain range they are good. The thing is to get each side to sound similar. Tight is not necessarily stronger, but even tension is the strongest. And a straight and true rim will make you the happiest