I got this set of spinning t handle wrenches. I wanted the park tool ones but they are almost 150.00 and I dont need them a lot. but there are a few jobs I really need them like tightening and loosening the bottom bracket bolts so I can rotate. the bottom bracket on the tandem to tight up the chain. dont need the 8 and the 10 really. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074PXK2BN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Does the aluminum act as a heatsink enough to keep the plastic cool and not deform?
I've found that if you take too long the pins can shift slightly when the surrounding plastic softens.
between it and my much loved TS100 soldering iron i haven’t melted one in years.
 
Here are my go to chain pin tools the most simple one is best.
 

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Here's a really old bar clamp, I have a pair of them. No idea how old, but they're cast iron, not steel. I just used it to clamp the stand I welded for the griddle.
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I have two, because you can never have too many tools, plus the second one I bought was on sale......
I kind of collect multimeters. I recently got terribly annoyed because I needed one. Couldn't find one of them, the other had a fogged over screen, one is somehow out of calibration, one had broken leads, but doesn't take standard leads, the other just like it doesn't make a noise for ringing out connections, the one that upset me the most was one that my grandfather bought me in a second hand shop the last time he visited before he died, doesn't work at all. I did finally get the one with the fogged screen cleared up enough to use it, but I spent a couple hours trying to get one of them to work.
 
I'm still looking for a multimeter small enough to carry on the bike. For now, I rely on the bike's voltmeter and a pair of clip leads soldered to a bulb.
 
a customer who bought one of my Chris king tool caddies had me make him a custom box for a tool set with sentimental value.
its carry so I wanted SS hardware as the cherry will darken up. found some cool Japanese clasps. hinges are chrome. then a guy I know made a leather handle for me and another guy put in the leather on the lid.
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a customer who bought one of my Chris king tool caddies had me make him a custom box for a tool set with sentimental value.
its carry so I wanted SS hardware as the cherry will darken up. found some cool Japanese clasps. hinges are chrome. then a guy I know made a leather handle for me and another guy put in the leather on the lid.
View attachment 157141View attachment 157142
Very nice work.
 
I'm still looking for a multimeter small enough to carry on the bike. For now, I rely on the bike's voltmeter and a pair of clip leads soldered to a bulb.
I tried a little Aneng o carry. It uses 2032 coin cells, but has auto shutoff that saves the day. I've compared it to my hugely expensive Fluke.

See Voltlog on YouTube, I'm addicted, got me on this one.
He does a bunch of the cheap Aneng meters.

 
Nice to see this thread again. I think i follow everybody on it , but y'all know I stay out threads where I can't add anything useful. I hope. But I understand the difference between y'all with precision tools and state of the art electric equipment do indeed contrast well with some of my favorites ; plus the big hammer in the basement. I stay active...
But I realize this bike will willingly take me places where the local talent won't have your skills. I need a tool kit for the bike that is a good use of limited skills and long ranges between local bike shops, but only a few miles to a ride an uber car, van, truck ...
I won't touch on the this stuff but probably assume no cell towers or credit cards. Most often electricity. Tool of the Devil.
How am I doing?
 

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So I tried the new torque wrench last evening.
After reading the instructions 3 times to understand how to calibrate the tension/nm settings I tried it on my Ergo grips first, just to get a feel for it.
The grips show a requirement of 5nm. OK, no worries... set the wrench, found the correct H bit and started turning... slowly...
The wrench is supposed to give you a "click" feel and/or sound when you reach the desired nm level. I was being very careful to notice the feedback as I tightened. I was extremely surprised at how many turns it took to get to that click feel/sound. It occurs to me that my grips might have been at 1 or 2nm which I felt comfortable with using the hand tool I used to install them. They had never moved before.
OK fine... Next I went to the 4 bolts that deal with the handlebars I upgraded. Same thing... but it took fewer turns to get there.
Now that I was familiar with the operation I went for the motor/engine mount bolts. I had found the service manual and seen that they should be at 30nm. The wrench is rated at max 26nm, so I "over" torqued it, got the Torx 30 bit and man... that was satisfying. A few turns later I was super snug on all 3 bolts.
For sure the shop did not torque the motor bolts after the dropper install.
Happy camper... will go over the rest of the bike on the weekend.
Sadly though, the stem shows 55nm. Dayum... I had moved the spacers, so I am very sure it's not what it should be. I'll see what 26nm does to those. Never had a problem with the stem though...
 
So I tried the new torque wrench last evening.
After reading the instructions 3 times to understand how to calibrate the tension/nm settings I tried it on my Ergo grips first, just to get a feel for it.
The grips show a requirement of 5nm. OK, no worries... set the wrench, found the correct H bit and started turning... slowly...
The wrench is supposed to give you a "click" feel and/or sound when you reach the desired nm level. I was being very careful to notice the feedback as I tightened. I was extremely surprised at how many turns it took to get to that click feel/sound. It occurs to me that my grips might have been at 1 or 2nm which I felt comfortable with using the hand tool I used to install them. They had never moved before.
OK fine... Next I went to the 4 bolts that deal with the handlebars I upgraded. Same thing... but it took fewer turns to get there.
Now that I was familiar with the operation I went for the motor/engine mount bolts. I had found the service manual and seen that they should be at 30nm. The wrench is rated at max 26nm, so I "over" torqued it, got the Torx 30 bit and man... that was satisfying. A few turns later I was super snug on all 3 bolts.
For sure the shop did not torque the motor bolts after the dropper install.
Happy camper... will go over the rest of the bike on the weekend.
Sadly though, the stem shows 55nm. Dayum... I had moved the spacers, so I am very sure it's not what it should be. I'll see what 26nm does to those. Never had a problem with the stem though...
The problem with torque wrenches is that they need to be recertified/calibrated professionally yearly or so depending on use and unless you do that... Your back to guessing as if you did by feel.
 
New torque wrench day...



Goes from 2 - 26nm. Will try it out tomorrow...



I've already got the Lexivon bits and extensions and I'm thinking about getting just the torque wrench?



Screenshot_20230817-002805_Amazon Shopping.jpg



Screenshot_20230817-001734_Amazon Shopping.jpg




But 6% of purchasers gave it one star, so I'm hesitating.

Screenshot_20230817-002048_Amazon Shopping.jpg
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I may spend the big extra bucks and get the Park Tool version?
I dunno?

They have a cheaper T-style version for around $150, but that's a lot of fricken money for something I'd rarely use.


Screenshot_20230817-004253_Amazon Shopping.jpg




Maybe I'll just keep wingin-it like I have been doing?
I haven't broken or stripped any bolts yet and non have loosened off.

I dunno?
 
So I tried the new torque wrench last evening.
After reading the instructions 3 times to understand how to calibrate the tension/nm settings I tried it on my Ergo grips first, just to get a feel for it.
The grips show a requirement of 5nm. OK, no worries... set the wrench, found the correct H bit and started turning... slowly...
The wrench is supposed to give you a "click" feel and/or sound when you reach the desired nm level. I was being very careful to notice the feedback as I tightened. I was extremely surprised at how many turns it took to get to that click feel/sound. It occurs to me that my grips might have been at 1 or 2nm which I felt comfortable with using the hand tool I used to install them. They had never moved before.
OK fine... Next I went to the 4 bolts that deal with the handlebars I upgraded. Same thing... but it took fewer turns to get there.
Now that I was familiar with the operation I went for the motor/engine mount bolts. I had found the service manual and seen that they should be at 30nm. The wrench is rated at max 26nm, so I "over" torqued it, got the Torx 30 bit and man... that was satisfying. A few turns later I was super snug on all 3 bolts.
For sure the shop did not torque the motor bolts after the dropper install.
Happy camper... will go over the rest of the bike on the weekend.
Sadly though, the stem shows 55nm. Dayum... I had moved the spacers, so I am very sure it's not what it should be. I'll see what 26nm does to those. Never had a problem with the stem though...
And a timely answer to what I will need to have available, indeed. Sure beats YouTube videos.
 
Maybe I'll just keep wingin-it like I have been doing?
I haven't broken or stripped any bolts yet and non have loosened off.

A good "rule of thumb" that I've found is to use the Allen key that comes supplied with everything that I've purchased for my e-bike, and use the key this way,..

20230817_020331.jpg



Chances are REALLY good that you won't be able to over torque anything without your thumb and fingers saying OWE !! and your left with red detents in your thumb and fingers that last for hours. 😂

It's not about Herculean strength.
It's all about how much it hurts to overtighten anything.
It's a very tactile approach. 😂
 
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