Shortening long kit wires. Info on making wires shorter

Parker703

New Member
Region
USA
Hello I have done a bit of searching here an did not see an answer. I know that ebike kits often come with overly long wires(just in case of....something). I myself have a bike with a kit installed with long wires bunched up and tied up. I was wondering if where I could get to good hand holding type info on cutting and re-splicing wires for a neat and tidy build
 
Have the proper tools first.
-Box cutter
-Wire strippers
-Soldering Iron & 60/40 solder (no lead free)
-Heat shrink & Tape heat Gun (although a lighter will work)

Been soldering since transistor radios had vaccum tubes.

Early pic. Controller eventually went into a box.
P1200111.JPG
 
It's possible I have all these things. It's also possible I will have to rebuy one or more of these things because I can't find them. I will have to look. It's daunting to cut a wire. I have soldered a couple of things but it was years ago. Really it should not be that hard but it would be nice to see a series of pictures: wire, cut wire(that looks like the one I have), striped wire(possibly striped tiny wires inside the wire), wires positioned in the way they will be soldiered(with the heat shirk tube on and to the side), wires soldered, hear shrink tube on and shrunk.
 
"If it ain't broke . . ."
What could go wrong?
Residual energy in capacitor ⚡
New bicycle needs longer wires
Poor electrical connections with high resistance
x
y
z
 
I did a step-by-step on doing crimps. I've never had one fail but I am also using marine adhesive connectors and adhesive heat shrink, proper crimpers vs. pliers etc.

 
I trust @m@Robertson and his technique but i have seen kit builders mess up other crimping parts. I’d follow him closely for best results.

I’m one that prefers soldering and am in the process of losing all the eBikes.ca JST connectors in favor of appropriately sized wire length and nor bundles of connectors. I invested in. T100 soldering iron and its been flawless.
 
Have the proper tools first.
-Box cutter
-Wire strippers
-Soldering Iron & 60/40 solder (no lead free)
-Heat shrink & Tape heat Gun (although a lighter will work)

Been soldering since transistor radios had vaccum tubes.

Early pic. Controller eventually went into a box.
Vacuum tubes in a transistor radio??? That wouldn't be a transistor radio then, would it? It would be a tube radio with transistors...

Heck, I can pre-date you anyway - used to repair all tube amps when I was in HS. Not uncommon for them to have blown resistors or caps when a tube shorted out. Easy to repair though in the discrete component days before PCB. Still have my weller soldering gun too...this was back in the day when Sam's Photofacts was the go to source for schematics and parts lists for repairs.
 
Vacuum tubes in a transistor radio??? That wouldn't be a transistor radio then, would it? It would be a tube radio with transistors...

Heck, I can pre-date you anyway - used to repair all tube amps when I was in HS. Not uncommon for them to have blown resistors or caps when a tube shorted out. Easy to repair though in the discrete component days before PCB. Still have my weller soldering gun too...this was back in the day when Sam's Photofacts was the go to source for schematics and parts lists for repairs.
Have a pair of those I've been using since they were my dad's a LONG time ago. Still using them! I get into small radio control stuff using 26g wire with the smaller gun. If it's any smaller than that, I'm done for. That can be a struggle holding everything steady enough to get a quick dab of solder on!
 
Have a pair of those I've been using since they were my dad's a LONG time ago. Still using them! I get into small radio control stuff using 26g wire with the smaller gun. If it's any smaller than that, I'm done for. That can be a struggle holding everything steady enough to get a quick dab of solder on!
Must be your dad's age. :). I learned the hard way that a soldering gun can fry a PCB trace in no time. Got a temp controlled soldering iron just like the one pictured in Harry S's post. No more fried PCB...
 
Must be your dad's age. :). I learned the hard way that a soldering gun can fry a PCB trace in no time. Got a temp controlled soldering iron just like the one pictured in Harry S's post. No more fried PCB...
No attempted modification/repair of PCB's here. I consider those beyond my interests!
 
I'm also a fan of soldering since I've been doing it most of my life. However, unless it's a large amount of excess wire, instead of cutting & splicing, I'll usually fold the excess back on itself and use spiral wrap to improve the esthetics.

41171p.jpg


It's available in many sizes & colors and also provides a degree of mechanical protection. I find the extra slack can sometimes be handy when working on bike components or making modifications like replacing handlebars, etc.
 
I'm also a fan of soldering since I've been doing it most of my life. However, unless it's a large amount of excess wire, instead of cutting & splicing, I'll usually fold the excess back on itself and use spiral wrap to improve the esthetics.

View attachment 131621


It's available in many sizes & colors and also provides a degree of mechanical protection. I find the extra slack can sometimes be handy when working on bike components or making modifications like replacing handlebars, etc.
I think this is good advice because cutting and soldering creates a possible failure point, whether due to faulty soldering or stresses from the stiffer soldered section leading to mechanical failure. Builders should also think about strain relief and grommeting where wires go through a hole cut in metal or hard plastic.
 
I think this is good advice because cutting and soldering creates a possible failure point, whether due to faulty soldering or stresses from the stiffer soldered section leading to mechanical failure. Builders should also think about strain relief and grommeting where wires go through a hole cut in metal or hard plastic.
How silly. Proper soldering is never a problem. Only a poor solder job creates a large “stiffer section”.
Get a learn to solder kit. Lots of them out there and pretty cheap too. For example
If a retired horticulture director with zero electronics experience can, anyone can...
 
How silly. Proper soldering is never a problem. Only a poor solder job creates a large “stiffer section”.
Get a learn to solder kit. Lots of them out there and pretty cheap too. For example
If a retired horticulture director with zero electronics experience can, anyone can...
I would need to bring up the fact that the FAA, in their 3" thick repairman's manual, specifying exactly how nearly every repair shall be done on an airplane, solder joints are specifically forbidden in favor of FAA approved crimp on connectors (they support the wire on both sides of the splice) - no exceptions - as a solder joint is a proven point of failure caused by vibration.

My own thought is, on a bike, where that joint is well supported, solder joints work just fine.
Point being, I see it as a legitimate point. You need to make your own call.
 
My own thought is, on a bike, where that joint is well supported, solder joints work just fine.
Point being, I see it as a legitimate point. You need to make your own call.

In my case, I use heat shrink tubing which provides considerable support for the solder joint.

This product provides conveniently does both:
They work well for certain types of splices.
 
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