Thermistor - yes exactly. Some controllers that have phase speed sensing will still give you a speed readout even without the speed wire, you just wont get the speed readout when OFF the throttle (because its freewheeling).
What fails first - It depends. If you run 90+ phase amps (say you run like 150 phase amps) you could potentially shear the key, or damage the gears within the first 1/4 mile, if you are doing wheelies and hard starts, it could cause mechanical damage almost immediately (although those items can be upgraded somewhat). You can melt the windings with 50 phase amps, or 150 phase amps either way, it will just overheat much faster the higher the phase amps you use. With 150 phase amps you could potentially overheat a cold motor within a minute or two under the worst conditions, where 60 phase amps it may take a few minutes under the worst conditions. A temp sensor would help prevent overheating.
my experience was with a Phaserunner V6 L10 and G62.1000 (6) - i ran 90 phase amps on 72V with the G62 doing ~2500W for years without any problems (it seems to operate more smooth than VESC).
WHen Grin tech originally started selling the G62- it was set to 90 phase amps, 2000w max in the phaserunner suite. I never had a problem. (Grin Tech later reduced these numbers to 60 phase amps and 1000w nominal configuration in their default settings. And put a warning about axles breaking on their website...)
back to phase amps testing- I then used a FLIPSKY 75100 PRO V2 vesc controller- i think i started out with 90 phase amps, nothing happened. But i increased it to 105pa, nylon gears immediately blew up. So my theory is you can potentially use 80pa (i only weigh 150# that might be part of it), But 90pa+ is extremely risky and a waste of time with nylon gears.
if you weld the clutch and do regen, without any modification, the parallel key will be getting damaged and eventually sheer off, and you get stuck with the motor spinning and scraping. Welding the clutch with a m12 axle is not a good idea, I sheered an axle right where it comes out of the cassette, luckily going 5mph in the snow. You need 2* grin tech v7 regen torque arm to hold the g62 still for regen. Or some other clamping dropout system. there is no way any standard torque arms can handle the regen. They might for a year but then the axle will sheer off. Im still not even sure if the M14 axle with two v7 regen torque arms can handle regen But thats what I am going to try next.
you can use Loctite 648 (i think thats the one) to mate the planet carrier to the axle, and it maintains the bond and you dont even need the parallel key in theory, But then its a pain to take it apart, requires a lot of heat. So if you do that it seems you want some steel gears , or use settings that will make nylon gears last a while, its not fun to have to break that Loctite 648
i always cut the speed wire inside the motor, and then install a thermistor instead. You wont have the speed signal for the stock controller anymore, But i use VESC that calculates speed based on RPM / gearing / wheel size. Dont get the PCB too hot or go too crazy soldering it as i think i messed up a hall sensor PCB one time by getting it too hot with the solder iron accidentally
When installing a thermistor in the motor- dont even pull the hall sensor board off the motor. extremely sensitive, i have broke a hall sensor just gently trying to remove the pcb to get to the bottom of it. Its best to cut the wire and then hook it to a thermistor, without removing the hall sensor pcb
these things get to 120C easily but apparently grin tech says they dont FAIL until 150C in the motor simulator. So I might look into finding a thermistor that can go above 120C. But it seems when the motor gets that hot it will spike very easily, and it might be best to just keep it at 120C cut off.
Fun motor for when i dont feel like messing with bbs HD