Bafang G062 / G063 Info

G062 06-windings can take huge phase amps for enough time for typical use. I have this motor heavily modified but with stock windings and running 200 phase amps peak.
 
G062 06-windings can take huge phase amps for enough time for typical use. I have this motor heavily modified but with stock windings and running 200 phase amps peak.
Yours is heavily modified with liquid cooling. I'm talking completely stock, non vented casing. Your motor is been through lots. I'd like to go as much power as possibly without damaging a stock motor.

Does your BT temperature thermistor sit completely inside the casing, or does a wire come outside to transmit?
 
G062 06-windings can take huge phase amps for enough time for typical use. I have this motor heavily modified but with stock windings and running 200 phase amps peak.
Do you have a link to your BT temperature monitor? Does your BT temperature thermistor sit completely inside the casing, or does a wire come outside to transmit?
 
I've owned a blade 2 from Rize bikes for about 2.5 years and I've lost about 4 motors by the poor quality of the torque arms, and by how close the screws that mount the break disc to the motor come to the cable. The Blade 2 uses the 1000W G062 hub motor. Is that the peak wattage of the motor or the standard wattage for continuous riding? After so much trouble with this bike I'm looking at some other mobed style ebikes with just as much speed (50km/h). The 1500w Eunorau flash uses two 750w motors for AWD. I can definitely see how that would deliver much more torque, but compared to a single 1000w hub motor I'm not sure if it would be as fast. However it still has 52v batteries, so if the voltage output from the controller is the same would the bike still have as much speed while the duel motors provide more than enough torque for the load?
 
I've owned a blade 2 from Rize bikes for about 2.5 years and I've lost about 4 motors by the poor quality of the torque arms, and by how close the screws that mount the break disc to the motor come to the cable. The Blade 2 uses the 1000W G062 hub motor. Is that the peak wattage of the motor or the standard wattage for continuous riding? After so much trouble with this bike I'm looking at some other mobed style ebikes with just as much speed (50km/h). The 1500w Eunorau flash uses two 750w motors for AWD. I can definitely see how that would deliver much more torque, but compared to a single 1000w hub motor I'm not sure if it would be as fast. However it still has 52v batteries, so if the voltage output from the controller is the same would the bike still have as much speed while the duel motors provide more than enough torque for the load?
I don't know anything about the Eunorau. I've had the Blade 2 since they first released, as does my buddy. We both ride them hard and have had no issues. We have the upgraded torque washers from Rize. The 1000 watt is just a rating Rize used. They claim their controller is 27A peak, so 1404 watts peak at 52 volts. More with a fully charged battery.
 
Yeah, I also pre-ordered the blade2. I have loved the high speed the bike has when fully charged. I replaced the original secondary battery with the 52v shark pack from golden motor which also boosted the speed to 54km/h and the range of course. The biggest attraction from the the eunorau flash is the AWD. That would be great for riding in the winter and up steep hills. My only concern is that it might only have a top speed of 45km/h, because the higher wattage only applies to torque in AWD. Voltage is what affects the speed in a brushless dc motor, so if a high powered motor controller delivers enough voltage to the motors the 750w motors could give you just as much speed, while the AWD handles the load, preventing it from burning out the motors.
The only reason Rize bikes made the improved torque washers was because of the first time my cable broke because the original torque washers did not prevent the axel from spinning when riding.
 
I bought a KT 45A controller and the LCD8H display for the KT controller. Does anyone have all the settings they have used? I see there are some P settings and C settings, and all the research I've done seems to show settings for other bikes, or not a G062.
I need help with
P5 (52 volt batteries), C1, (is this just counting the number of magnets on my PAS), C2 (I have a sine wave controller), C5 (more curious about the slow start and how they work).
 
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Thermistor - yes exactly. Some controllers that have phase speed sensing will still give you a speed readout even without the speed wire, you just wont get the speed readout when OFF the throttle (because its freewheeling).

What fails first - It depends. If you run 90+ phase amps (say you run like 150 phase amps) you could potentially shear the key, or damage the gears within the first 1/4 mile, if you are doing wheelies and hard starts, it could cause mechanical damage almost immediately (although those items can be upgraded somewhat). You can melt the windings with 50 phase amps, or 150 phase amps either way, it will just overheat much faster the higher the phase amps you use. With 150 phase amps you could potentially overheat a cold motor within a minute or two under the worst conditions, where 60 phase amps it may take a few minutes under the worst conditions. A temp sensor would help prevent overheating.

my experience was with a Phaserunner V6 L10 and G62.1000 (6) - i ran 90 phase amps on 72V with the G62 doing ~2500W for years without any problems (it seems to operate more smooth than VESC).

WHen Grin tech originally started selling the G62- it was set to 90 phase amps, 2000w max in the phaserunner suite. I never had a problem. (Grin Tech later reduced these numbers to 60 phase amps and 1000w nominal configuration in their default settings. And put a warning about axles breaking on their website...)

back to phase amps testing- I then used a FLIPSKY 75100 PRO V2 vesc controller- i think i started out with 90 phase amps, nothing happened. But i increased it to 105pa, nylon gears immediately blew up. So my theory is you can potentially use 80pa (i only weigh 150# that might be part of it), But 90pa+ is extremely risky and a waste of time with nylon gears.

if you weld the clutch and do regen, without any modification, the parallel key will be getting damaged and eventually sheer off, and you get stuck with the motor spinning and scraping. Welding the clutch with a m12 axle is not a good idea, I sheered an axle right where it comes out of the cassette, luckily going 5mph in the snow. You need 2* grin tech v7 regen torque arm to hold the g62 still for regen. Or some other clamping dropout system. there is no way any standard torque arms can handle the regen. They might for a year but then the axle will sheer off. Im still not even sure if the M14 axle with two v7 regen torque arms can handle regen But thats what I am going to try next.

you can use Loctite 648 (i think thats the one) to mate the planet carrier to the axle, and it maintains the bond and you dont even need the parallel key in theory, But then its a pain to take it apart, requires a lot of heat. So if you do that it seems you want some steel gears , or use settings that will make nylon gears last a while, its not fun to have to break that Loctite 648

i always cut the speed wire inside the motor, and then install a thermistor instead. You wont have the speed signal for the stock controller anymore, But i use VESC that calculates speed based on RPM / gearing / wheel size. Dont get the PCB too hot or go too crazy soldering it as i think i messed up a hall sensor PCB one time by getting it too hot with the solder iron accidentally

When installing a thermistor in the motor- dont even pull the hall sensor board off the motor. extremely sensitive, i have broke a hall sensor just gently trying to remove the pcb to get to the bottom of it. Its best to cut the wire and then hook it to a thermistor, without removing the hall sensor pcb

these things get to 120C easily but apparently grin tech says they dont FAIL until 150C in the motor simulator. So I might look into finding a thermistor that can go above 120C. But it seems when the motor gets that hot it will spike very easily, and it might be best to just keep it at 120C cut off.

Fun motor for when i dont feel like messing with bbs HD
 
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Current figures for my modified G062. Awesome to have this performance in stealthy package 😄
 
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Current figures for my modified G062. Awesome to have this performance in stealthy package 😄
Nice, that’s crazy. I don’t plan on doing any water cooling personally but that’s insane

What are your thoughts on g62 regen, have you tried wwelding the clutch??

It works really well, braking force is incredible, don’t even need brakes on your bike, regen is OK at about 10% on normal street riding for me. But it takes a lot of fussing around and i broke an axle doing it. I miss regen but not sure the risk is worth it and it does add a little drag .
 
Nice, that’s crazy. I don’t plan on doing any water cooling personally but that’s insane

What are your thoughts on g62 regen, have you tried wwelding the clutch??

It works really well, braking force is incredible, don’t even need brakes on your bike, regen is OK at about 10% on normal street riding for me. But it takes a lot of fussing around and i broke an axle doing it. I miss regen but not sure the risk is worth it and it does add a little drag .
I have welded the clutch. Experimented regen but Its too risky for the drivetrain. I have balanced V7 regen torque arms on both sides which is just enough to be relatively confident they hold.
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dang,what's your day job? believe if I was going to all that trouble I would just use a sprocket and those round PM motors.but its your hobby enjoy when you get older you will not have time for all that.:cool:
 
dang,what's your day job? believe if I was going to all that trouble I would just use a sprocket and those round PM motors.but its your hobby enjoy when you get older you will not have time for all that.:cool:
Manager in field of biotech process development. Family related responsibilies (50/50) and other other hobbies too...so busy life 😅
 
I have welded the clutch. Experimented regen but Its too risky for the drivetrain. I have balanced V7 regen torque arms on both sides which is just enough to be relatively confident they hold.

that's what I was thinking, I got a G63 with the M14 axle and I have two Grin Tech v7 torque arms lingering in my Amazon shopping cart with a Greater Purpose that awaits

I cracked open the RM G063 1000 DC 5.5 recently and did a surgery on it!
 
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