I've had about 6 of these motors, heres some info that may help.
G062 1000 / G062 750 / G063 appear to be very similar motors-
G062.750 and G062.1000 are nearly identical motors. The primary difference being the phase wires. Traditionally the 750 was sold with Z916 phase wires and the 1000 was sold with superior L1019 phase wires, but now both the 750 and 1000 are readily available with L1019 phase wires making no difference. The only other difference I know of is the turn count. The 750w versions often come in 6.5T configuration, and 1000w versions come in 6T configuration (usually but not always). The 6.5T motors actually make more power/torque at a given phase amp (slightly higher turn) but have slightly less copper in parallel. The 6T motors seem to be 15 strands in parallel and 6.5T is 12 strands. Therefore the 6T motor (1000w) may handle slightly more heat before overheating, and may have slightly better overall copper fill and the 6.5T motor (750w) can produce the same power with less phase amps or more power at the same phase amps and have less strain on the phase wires, although will overheat the windings slightly faster at the same phase amps, and slightly worse overall copper fill.
G063 motors typically come in 5.5T configuration, which means they actually produce less torque per phase amp than the G062 series motors. From the photos that I have seen, they seem to have significantly worse copper fill than G062 motors. They also come with L1121 connectors which are less common than L1019, therefore in my opinion making it an inferior motor to the G062.
G062 uses the same gears and same 88mm clutch as the G060 series, but it spins in the opposite direction, so a G060.750 clutch will not work. Grin sells replacement clutches for $60 plus shipping, and if you look very very hard for custom 88mm clutches on Aliexpress you can find the correct one for $20 bucks.
G062 is available in both 12mm and 14mm axles. The 14mm being superior just due to strength. The other benefit is from the motors I have seen, the 14mm axle version has a single locknut on the cassette side rather than 2 locknuts, what this means is you can disassemble the motor without removing the cassette. Risunmotor on aliexpress seems to sell the 14mm axles. The magnets seem to be epoxied better than some of the older versions of the motor but that is just speculation. The phase wires are slightly higher gauge than the standard bafang L1019 cables. I recommend Risunmotor for these reasons (larger axle, single locknut, possibly better glue on magnets, slightly higher gauge phase wires). Grin sells a more expensive motor that includes a temp sensor.
L1019 phase wires seem to be quite adequate. The phase wires are NOT as large as the Grin 4mm2 (12gauge) phase wires, they are a smaller size (2.5mm2 I believe) as its the largest that will fit through the axle with hall wires, in an insulated jacket, however they are quite adequate, even for power levels in the 5000w range, phase amps up to 90+ amps has been reliable.
Overheating the motor- A temp sensor is by far the best way to monitor, but as a crude alternative, if the shell/case of the motor gets to the point where you cannot leave your finger on it for 1 full second (less than 1 second) it has reached the point of overheating where you may experience burned windings. My theory is if you can leave your finger on the shell for several seconds or longer you are okay, for only 1-2 seconds, use caution, and 1 second or less requires an immediate cool down break, or risking burned/melted windings as you have likely hit overheat temperature. When the motor is at these temperatures, running high current (90 phase amps) through the motor for a period of as little as 30 seconds, can melt the windings.
Motor Breakage - It seems around 1500w-2000w motor power is in the safe zone for an L1019 equipped G062 motor. Increasing beyond this amount is where components can start to break. I think phase amps (torque) is more important than total wattage. Phase amps around 60-75 or less I would consider safe for a stock motor. Bafang has around 85nm listed as max torque which would equate to around 75-80 phase amps as a maximum, I find this to be accurate. The nylon gears seem to slip and therefore can strip and disintegrate when going beyond this amount. The gears usually begin to strip within the first 20 miles of running hard, this has happened to me on several motors and several brand new gear sets. I was able to fix the issue by replacing the gears to half steel half nylon has solved this problem and I have not had a gear issue since. However it brings a new issue. With the stronger gears, going beyond the 75 or so phase amps, instead of the gears slipping it seems to put the pressure on the parallel key / drive key / feather key inside the motor where it will shear off entirely, this has happened to me 5+ times. It also usually seems to happen within the first 5-20 hard miles, just like the nylon gear failure. I was able to solve this issue by replacing with a stainless steel parallel key (or a longer parallel key) which has been holding up much better at 90+ phase amps. However it could be a safety concern- the OEM parallel key may be designed to shear off to prevent motor damage or injury if the motor were to lock up, running steel gears and stainless steel key there is a chance the motor could lock up uncontrollably. Both of these upgrades cost around $30 usd total (gears and parallel key), allowing me to go from 60-75 phase amps up to 90+. Running 90-120 phase amps I have had 3 clutches break, it essentially welded itself where the clutch would no longer freewheel and was in a locked position in both directions, the motor functions fine but the freewheel would not engage (same as a welded clutch), this has happened to 3 of my clutches so far. The bike still pedals fine with a welded clutch and virtually no added drag. Bottom line, when going above 60-75 phase amps, there are multiple motor internals that can break and/or may need to be upgraded, however if keeping below 60-75 phase amps you are much less likely to experience these issues. Lastly magnets can come loose which seems to be caused by overheating the motor. You will hear a rattling sound under maximum torque (low rpm usually) when this happens. This will usually but not always occur before the windings themselves melt, somewhere in the 140-160c sustained temperature range seems to be where the magnet glue will melt.
Venting the motor - Venting the motor has made a HUGE increase in performance. I vented both sides of the motor. I ride hard offroad and have not (yet) experienced any catastrophic damage from venting. The performance gains have been massive, 50% or more increase in total performance.
Tire size - Just like venting the motor, the tire size makes a huge difference in performance. You can simulate these results with the grin simulator. The smaller diameter tire the better, in terms of acceleration performance, hill climb performance, and overall motor overheating performance. For offroad use, or hill climbs, depending on RPM, as 23" tire vs 27.5" tire will have overheating improvement gains as high as 50%+ under certain circumstances.
Continuous Wattage: Between the smaller tire diameter and venting, to maximize the performance of this motor, I am able to run a 5000w+ setup, offroad, with a heavy bike, at 30mph continuous. I average 2000w battery and 1500w motor output watts sustained/continuous for 2+ hours and the winding temps typically stay below 120-130c. I have done a 3000ft climb (1000m) around 10% grade at 20-30mph and saw winding temps of about 130c at the top. The stock motor on 27.5 tires going slower pulling less watts, would have required 2 cooldown breaks along the way. I seem to get around the same performance as a 2000w or 3000w DD motor when running speeds less than 30mph. Very solid performance from a "750w" motor.
Voltage - I run mine at 72v. Running up to 60v seems to be fine, at 72v It gets excessively noisy and does not sound good at maximum voltage. I do not have a firm conclusion on this yet, although the bike will run 40+mph, I generally keep mine below 30-35mph to avoid maximum volts/rpm as it does not sound good at maximum RPM at that high of a voltage, but will continue to test this and have not yet had an issue at 72v.
Maximum phase amps - ~75 phase amps seems to be right around the maximum for a stock motor. G062 motors, vented, with small diameter wheels for optimal heat reduction and upgraded gears/drive key. Running 90 phase amps has been mostly reliable for 1000+ miles of hard riding (continuing to test). I switched to a 80a/120 phase amp controller and melted a motor within just a few miles, way too quickly reading temps above 150c. Thinking it could have been a fluke, or controller issue, or a short, I tested another new motor with a new controller at 65a 150 phase amps and the same thing occurred. The motor reaches operating temp/saturation temperature within a just a mile or two at 100-120c, and once warm, the motor seems to overheat under regular/hard riding conditions within as little as 1 mile. Even taking it relatively "easy" the motor would still hit 150c+ temps within < 1 mile or two of saturation temperature, even without uphill climbs. I ended up melting/shorting another set of windings with this setup, and less than 10 miles total on the brand new motor, under "regular" riding conditions. My conclusion is 120-150 phase amps is just too much even for a vented motor. It may work for a drag race, but for any type of normal riding conditions it seems to be much too high, 90 phase amps was the most I have been able to run reliably. On the bright side the upgraded stainless steel gears, drive pin, and stock L1019 connector did hold up to the 150 phase amps, atleast for the short 20 or so miles worth of testing, the motor windings themselves overheating seemed to be the failure point. My windings have typically failed when reading temps between 150-170c and higher.
I am running 72v, 60a (so nearly 5000w peak), 90 phase amp (105nm torque), with the vented motor and smaller wheel size, upgraded gears and parallel key and a 6.5T (high turn motor), and with reasonable temperature monitoring it seems to be somewhat "reliable". This is what I have settled at for now. The limiting factor being primarily the windings themselves. The motor generally does not overheat under regular/hard riding conditions, once the motor is hot, steep climbs (15%+) and deep sand where using full throttle at max phase amps (20mph and below) it will only sustain the heat for about 30 seconds continuous before overheating.
Hope this helps someone!
G062 1000 / G062 750 / G063 appear to be very similar motors-
G062.750 and G062.1000 are nearly identical motors. The primary difference being the phase wires. Traditionally the 750 was sold with Z916 phase wires and the 1000 was sold with superior L1019 phase wires, but now both the 750 and 1000 are readily available with L1019 phase wires making no difference. The only other difference I know of is the turn count. The 750w versions often come in 6.5T configuration, and 1000w versions come in 6T configuration (usually but not always). The 6.5T motors actually make more power/torque at a given phase amp (slightly higher turn) but have slightly less copper in parallel. The 6T motors seem to be 15 strands in parallel and 6.5T is 12 strands. Therefore the 6T motor (1000w) may handle slightly more heat before overheating, and may have slightly better overall copper fill and the 6.5T motor (750w) can produce the same power with less phase amps or more power at the same phase amps and have less strain on the phase wires, although will overheat the windings slightly faster at the same phase amps, and slightly worse overall copper fill.
G063 motors typically come in 5.5T configuration, which means they actually produce less torque per phase amp than the G062 series motors. From the photos that I have seen, they seem to have significantly worse copper fill than G062 motors. They also come with L1121 connectors which are less common than L1019, therefore in my opinion making it an inferior motor to the G062.
G062 uses the same gears and same 88mm clutch as the G060 series, but it spins in the opposite direction, so a G060.750 clutch will not work. Grin sells replacement clutches for $60 plus shipping, and if you look very very hard for custom 88mm clutches on Aliexpress you can find the correct one for $20 bucks.
G062 is available in both 12mm and 14mm axles. The 14mm being superior just due to strength. The other benefit is from the motors I have seen, the 14mm axle version has a single locknut on the cassette side rather than 2 locknuts, what this means is you can disassemble the motor without removing the cassette. Risunmotor on aliexpress seems to sell the 14mm axles. The magnets seem to be epoxied better than some of the older versions of the motor but that is just speculation. The phase wires are slightly higher gauge than the standard bafang L1019 cables. I recommend Risunmotor for these reasons (larger axle, single locknut, possibly better glue on magnets, slightly higher gauge phase wires). Grin sells a more expensive motor that includes a temp sensor.
L1019 phase wires seem to be quite adequate. The phase wires are NOT as large as the Grin 4mm2 (12gauge) phase wires, they are a smaller size (2.5mm2 I believe) as its the largest that will fit through the axle with hall wires, in an insulated jacket, however they are quite adequate, even for power levels in the 5000w range, phase amps up to 90+ amps has been reliable.
Overheating the motor- A temp sensor is by far the best way to monitor, but as a crude alternative, if the shell/case of the motor gets to the point where you cannot leave your finger on it for 1 full second (less than 1 second) it has reached the point of overheating where you may experience burned windings. My theory is if you can leave your finger on the shell for several seconds or longer you are okay, for only 1-2 seconds, use caution, and 1 second or less requires an immediate cool down break, or risking burned/melted windings as you have likely hit overheat temperature. When the motor is at these temperatures, running high current (90 phase amps) through the motor for a period of as little as 30 seconds, can melt the windings.
Motor Breakage - It seems around 1500w-2000w motor power is in the safe zone for an L1019 equipped G062 motor. Increasing beyond this amount is where components can start to break. I think phase amps (torque) is more important than total wattage. Phase amps around 60-75 or less I would consider safe for a stock motor. Bafang has around 85nm listed as max torque which would equate to around 75-80 phase amps as a maximum, I find this to be accurate. The nylon gears seem to slip and therefore can strip and disintegrate when going beyond this amount. The gears usually begin to strip within the first 20 miles of running hard, this has happened to me on several motors and several brand new gear sets. I was able to fix the issue by replacing the gears to half steel half nylon has solved this problem and I have not had a gear issue since. However it brings a new issue. With the stronger gears, going beyond the 75 or so phase amps, instead of the gears slipping it seems to put the pressure on the parallel key / drive key / feather key inside the motor where it will shear off entirely, this has happened to me 5+ times. It also usually seems to happen within the first 5-20 hard miles, just like the nylon gear failure. I was able to solve this issue by replacing with a stainless steel parallel key (or a longer parallel key) which has been holding up much better at 90+ phase amps. However it could be a safety concern- the OEM parallel key may be designed to shear off to prevent motor damage or injury if the motor were to lock up, running steel gears and stainless steel key there is a chance the motor could lock up uncontrollably. Both of these upgrades cost around $30 usd total (gears and parallel key), allowing me to go from 60-75 phase amps up to 90+. Running 90-120 phase amps I have had 3 clutches break, it essentially welded itself where the clutch would no longer freewheel and was in a locked position in both directions, the motor functions fine but the freewheel would not engage (same as a welded clutch), this has happened to 3 of my clutches so far. The bike still pedals fine with a welded clutch and virtually no added drag. Bottom line, when going above 60-75 phase amps, there are multiple motor internals that can break and/or may need to be upgraded, however if keeping below 60-75 phase amps you are much less likely to experience these issues. Lastly magnets can come loose which seems to be caused by overheating the motor. You will hear a rattling sound under maximum torque (low rpm usually) when this happens. This will usually but not always occur before the windings themselves melt, somewhere in the 140-160c sustained temperature range seems to be where the magnet glue will melt.
Venting the motor - Venting the motor has made a HUGE increase in performance. I vented both sides of the motor. I ride hard offroad and have not (yet) experienced any catastrophic damage from venting. The performance gains have been massive, 50% or more increase in total performance.
Tire size - Just like venting the motor, the tire size makes a huge difference in performance. You can simulate these results with the grin simulator. The smaller diameter tire the better, in terms of acceleration performance, hill climb performance, and overall motor overheating performance. For offroad use, or hill climbs, depending on RPM, as 23" tire vs 27.5" tire will have overheating improvement gains as high as 50%+ under certain circumstances.
Continuous Wattage: Between the smaller tire diameter and venting, to maximize the performance of this motor, I am able to run a 5000w+ setup, offroad, with a heavy bike, at 30mph continuous. I average 2000w battery and 1500w motor output watts sustained/continuous for 2+ hours and the winding temps typically stay below 120-130c. I have done a 3000ft climb (1000m) around 10% grade at 20-30mph and saw winding temps of about 130c at the top. The stock motor on 27.5 tires going slower pulling less watts, would have required 2 cooldown breaks along the way. I seem to get around the same performance as a 2000w or 3000w DD motor when running speeds less than 30mph. Very solid performance from a "750w" motor.
Voltage - I run mine at 72v. Running up to 60v seems to be fine, at 72v It gets excessively noisy and does not sound good at maximum voltage. I do not have a firm conclusion on this yet, although the bike will run 40+mph, I generally keep mine below 30-35mph to avoid maximum volts/rpm as it does not sound good at maximum RPM at that high of a voltage, but will continue to test this and have not yet had an issue at 72v.
Maximum phase amps - ~75 phase amps seems to be right around the maximum for a stock motor. G062 motors, vented, with small diameter wheels for optimal heat reduction and upgraded gears/drive key. Running 90 phase amps has been mostly reliable for 1000+ miles of hard riding (continuing to test). I switched to a 80a/120 phase amp controller and melted a motor within just a few miles, way too quickly reading temps above 150c. Thinking it could have been a fluke, or controller issue, or a short, I tested another new motor with a new controller at 65a 150 phase amps and the same thing occurred. The motor reaches operating temp/saturation temperature within a just a mile or two at 100-120c, and once warm, the motor seems to overheat under regular/hard riding conditions within as little as 1 mile. Even taking it relatively "easy" the motor would still hit 150c+ temps within < 1 mile or two of saturation temperature, even without uphill climbs. I ended up melting/shorting another set of windings with this setup, and less than 10 miles total on the brand new motor, under "regular" riding conditions. My conclusion is 120-150 phase amps is just too much even for a vented motor. It may work for a drag race, but for any type of normal riding conditions it seems to be much too high, 90 phase amps was the most I have been able to run reliably. On the bright side the upgraded stainless steel gears, drive pin, and stock L1019 connector did hold up to the 150 phase amps, atleast for the short 20 or so miles worth of testing, the motor windings themselves overheating seemed to be the failure point. My windings have typically failed when reading temps between 150-170c and higher.
I am running 72v, 60a (so nearly 5000w peak), 90 phase amp (105nm torque), with the vented motor and smaller wheel size, upgraded gears and parallel key and a 6.5T (high turn motor), and with reasonable temperature monitoring it seems to be somewhat "reliable". This is what I have settled at for now. The limiting factor being primarily the windings themselves. The motor generally does not overheat under regular/hard riding conditions, once the motor is hot, steep climbs (15%+) and deep sand where using full throttle at max phase amps (20mph and below) it will only sustain the heat for about 30 seconds continuous before overheating.
Hope this helps someone!
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