Reention Dorado 48V 25Ah 29Ah&36V 30Ah (505L) Replacement Battery for eBikes Surface 604,NCM,Rize,Magnum,Aventon

[ovt]

52V isn’t a big improvement. Better to get another 48v with more Ah.

I think you right, thanks for the advice,I was thinking of taking another 48v battery and connecting them in parallel but I was thinking that a 52v one would bring me something extra. With the 48v 21Ah battery I can reach a speed of 42km / h and 100km range on the flat road on mode 3 (full power). I found this module on aliexpress to connect two batteries, i will I will order it and also need some connection adapters.

Last week I tested the bike in normal mode until the battery reached 0. I did two routes in total of 99.5 km distance and 5.5 hours till the battery had no more lines, but even so without any battery bar I can do a few more km until the display turns off. So, to be more precise, I think that 40% of the route I climbed hills and the remaining 60% was flat. What I noticed between Normal and Power mode (2 and 3) is that on mode 2 my legs got a little tired and on power mode (3) my legs never got tired because of the full torque and I can climb big hills with 30-35km / h most of the time depending on the slope.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004126989359.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.46833c00C7tDu2&mp=1

Here are some new pictures of my bike from last week. It remains to be seen where to put the second battery, I have a choice between triangle battery, close to the handlebars or a Bottle eBike Battery.

 

[ovt]

I think this second battery would fit best on the frame, it also looks like a motorcycle tank, and with that module i can connect them in paralel.

 

[AHicks]

You do realize that running the battery down to the point the display shuts off is REALLY hard on the battery, right?

 

[ovt]

Îți dai seama că rularea bateriei până la punctul în care afișajul se oprește este FOARTE dificilă pentru baterie, nu?

Yes i know that but it was only a test to see what it is the maximum range. After a long trip, you may run out of battery power, but that doesn't mean you're destroying your battery. If you don't do this every day nothing bad will happen.

 

[Jenny Mao]

Hi. I would like to know if it can works a 52v battey to my ebike. Now i have a Reention Dorado ID-Max 48v 21Ah battery, das-kit L6 display, CT5-i5 controller. My question is: if the display has only the 48v option and I install a 52v battery, will that battery automatically run on 52v even if the display has a maximum of 48v option, or the battery will run on 48v?

Hi, may I know your ebike model? It looks same as NCM Moscow. I will invite @Bitmugger to share the testing result, who owns a NCM Moscow and he will test the Dorado 52V 20Ah after the lockdown lifted here.

 

[Jenny Mao]

I think this second battery would fit best on the frame, it also looks like a motorcycle tank, and with that module i can connect them in paralel.

Hi, which dual battery converter module you chose? As I know, there are two kinds of module, one for discharging from A to B battery, and another for discharging from both batteries in the same time. Even for the latter, it is suggested to choose a second battery with on/off switch to still let the battery discharge from main battery to second one. Lithium ion battery is ususally not suggested to be connected in parallel, and two batteries, new/old, or in different voltages or from different manufacturers, will cause problems in parallel connection, especially when the BMS charging & discharing in common port, the higher voltage battery will charge the low battery.

Reention Polly or Shanshan Hailong series are most polular down tube type for second battery. Below are all Polly battery options with 21700 available.
DP-5/5C, 368x90x96mm, 48V 14Ah max for DP-5
DP-6/6C, 368x90x113mm, 48V 17.5Ah max for DP-6
DP-9/9C, 368x90x141mm, 48V 24.5Ah max for DP-9
DP-2170-4/4C, 368x95x106mm, 48V 15Ah max for DP-2170-4
DP-2170-5/5C, 368x95x125mm, 48V 20Ah max for DP-2170-5
The C version means there is controller box on base plate, which takes up some space of battery body causing smaller capacity.

 

[Eucrider]

I think you right, thanks for the advice,I was thinking of taking another 48v battery and connecting them in parallel but I was thinking that a 52v one would bring me something extra. With the 48v 21Ah battery I can reach a speed of 42km / h and 100km range on the flat road on mode 3 (full power). I found this module on aliexpress to connect two batteries, i will I will order it and also need some connection adapters.

Last week I tested the bike in normal mode until the battery reached 0. I did two routes in total of 99.5 km distance and 5.5 hours till the battery had no more lines, but even so without any battery bar I can do a few more km until the display turns off. So, to be more precise, I think that 40% of the route I climbed hills and the remaining 60% was flat. What I noticed between Normal and Power mode (2 and 3) is that on mode 2 my legs got a little tired and on power mode (3) my legs never got tired because of the full torque and I can climb big hills with 30-35km / h most of the time depending on the slope.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004126989359.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.46833c00C7tDu2&mp=1

Here are some new pictures of my bike from last week. It remains to be seen where to put the second battery, I have a choice between triangle battery, close to the handlebars or a Bottle eBike Battery.

Didn't the bike come with a battery before you bought the 48v 21ah battery? If it did why don't you put it on a rear rack , if it didn't you could always buy the same fitting type and do the same , I've just bought the 48v 25ah from @Jenny Mao I'm looking to do that or carry another in my backpack but that might be to heavy on the shoulders after a while,
Can't wait to test the 48v 25ah see what range I get compared to the 17ah
What bike is it btw

 

[tomjasz]

You do realize that running the battery down to the point the display shuts off is REALLY hard on the battery, right?

Good to share that. However I do the same, I like knowing how many miles before the LVC. Riding to the LVC isn’t all that hard on a battery.
Low Voltage Cutout

 

[AHicks]

Good to share that. However I do the same, I like knowing how many miles before the LVC. Riding to the LVC isn’t all that hard on a battery.
Low Voltage Cutout

I'd agree if you are going to do that once or twice, or even on that rare occasion, but to plan on using that capacity regularly? You can if you want, but that's not something I'll be doing. 3.3v per cell is a nice safe lower limit for me. That works out to about 46v. for a 48v pack. I base my mileage per charge on that number (46v). I can get, depending on the bike, 35 to 40 miles on a charge, which is WAY more than I'll ever need for one ride, so I figure why push it?

Last thought, there's also voltage sag to consider, especially when considering larger loads. I have a couple of bikes with big power, and they're forced to deal with my 300lbs. That in mind, if I ride down to 44v for instance, and give the bike a shot of wide open throttle, the bike WILL shut down due to the LVC. NOT cool if that happens crossing a busy road. Sure, you can get the bike home at lower throttle levels, but I think you're pushing the lower limits of that charge, and beleive that's harder than I want to push my batteries.

You can do as you like.... -Al

 

[tomjasz]

3.3v per cell

Isn’t 3.2V/cell the commonly used LVC? BTW 46v would be 3.5v/cell. 3.3v = 43v.
For those that don’t know a 48v battery has 13 cells in series, fully charged 48v cells are 4.2v.

 

[AHicks]

Isn’t 3.2V/cell the commonly used LVC? BTW 46v would be 3.5v/cell. 3.3v = 43v.
For those that don’t know a 48v battery has 13 cells in series, fully charged 48v cells are 4.2v.

Sorry, you're right. Not enough coffee yet. I was thinking 14 cells. Should be 13. And yes, I agree 3.2v is frequently used for LVC.

I still use 46v for my range calculations/and the point where my batteries will be charged, and the bikes WILL shut down with a wide open burst when they gets down to 44v. Those are the Ultra powered bike, and the MAC 12t w/35a controller. Both able to pull well over 1200w.

 

[tomjasz]

I still use 46v for my range calculations

That makes sense. My new batteries are all at least 20Ah and my rides are seldom over 10 miles. I top off like you before reaching the LVC, and then only to 80%.

 

[AHicks]

That makes sense. My new batteries are all at least 20Ah and my rides are seldom over 10 miles. I top off like you before reaching the LVC, and then only to 80%.

I ride daily, so I use 100% charges. To get the bike down to 46v, I might go on several rides, so I don't charge after every one of them. I just keep an eye on it and charge when it gets down to 46v, or maybe prior to a longer ride. After riding for several years now, that's what works for me anyway. I realize there are plenty of others with their own situations that are WAY different than mine.

 

[ovt]

Hi, may I know your ebike model? It looks same as NCM Moscow. I will invite @Bitmugger to share the testing result, who owns a NCM Moscow and he will test the Dorado 52V 20Ah after the lockdown lifted here.

Thank you!! The bike it's another brand but 100% like NCM Moscow, the same frame and kit. Das-kit CT5-i5 controller, L6 Display, X15R(MXUS Rebranded) motor, 48V battery.

 

[ovt]

Hi, which dual battery converter module you chose? As I know, there are two kinds of module, one for discharging from A to B battery, and another for discharging from both batteries in the same time. Even for the latter, it is suggested to choose a second battery with on/off switch to still let the battery discharge from main battery to second one. Lithium ion battery is ususally not suggested to be connected in parallel, and two batteries, new/old, or in different voltages or from different manufacturers, will cause problems in parallel connection, especially when the BMS charging & discharing in common port, the higher voltage battery will charge the low battery.

Reention Polly or Shanshan Hailong series are most polular down tube type for second battery. Below are all Polly battery options with 21700 available.
DP-5/5C, 368x90x96mm, 48V 14Ah max for DP-5
DP-6/6C, 368x90x113mm, 48V 17.5Ah max for DP-6
DP-9/9C, 368x90x141mm, 48V 24.5Ah max for DP-9
DP-2170-4/4C, 368x95x106mm, 48V 15Ah max for DP-2170-4
DP-2170-5/5C, 368x95x125mm, 48V 20Ah max for DP-2170-5
The C version means there is controller box on base plate, which takes up some space of battery body causing smaller capacity.

View attachment 122921

I was going to buy a secondary battery with the same voltage to connect both in parallel. So it's much better to choose a second battery with on / off switch to let the battery discharge from main battery to second one, than to have discharging from both batteries at the same time?

 

[ovt]

Didn't the bike come with a battery before you bought the 48v 21ah battery? If it did why don't you put it on a rear rack , if it didn't you could always buy the same fitting type and do the same , I've just bought the 48v 25ah from @Jenny Mao I'm looking to do that or carry another in my backpack but that might be to heavy on the shoulders after a while,
Can't wait to test the 48v 25ah see what range I get compared to the 17ah
What bike is it btw

Yes but the old battery it's a 36v that's why i have to buy another 48v battery.

 

[Jenny Mao]

I was going to buy a secondary battery with the same voltage to connect both in parallel. So it's much better to choose a second battery with on / off switch to let the battery discharge from main battery to second one, than to have discharging from both batteries at the same time?

Yes, that is suggested by our engineers unless you can make sure the two batteries are totally same and new, and to charge both batteres to same voltage to use everytime. And pls also check with the converter module manufacturer to see what is best way to use.

 

[ovt]

I have found this 2 converters on aliexpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003339335460.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.5fa03c002xerpi&mp=1

29.88US $ |EBKE Ebike Electric Bicycle Dual Battery Module Automatic Conversion Discharge and Simultaneous Discharge| | - AliExpress

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

 

[ovt]

I can buy 2 switch like this for both battery or i also need to buy a converter?

URL unfurl="true"]https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004078912664.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.6c285b3bwP5s6h&algo_pvid=d4cdb659-b0ea-4329-80da-5c5329e480e8&algo_exp_id=d4cdb659-b0ea-4329-80da-5c5329e480e8-20&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000027969770259%22%7D&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21EUR%21%214.73%21%21%21%21%21%400bb0623216522006744273375e5e1f%2112000027969770259%21sea[/URL]

 

[tomjasz]

It's so much easier to just use a switch. DPDT

We used an inexpensive voltmeter. The switch has three positions.

Frame battery - OFF - Rack battery