Our Rides in Words, Photos & Videos

[Stefan Mikes]

"What If I Discarded My Present Life And Escaped To Bieszczady?", or Ursa Maior Brewery Ride
(Wednesday 18th of August 2021. Base: Ustrzyki Dolne)

The phrase circulates between bored city dwellers of Poland as a joke. For us, Bieszczady Mountains (that are located in the most remote southeast corner of Poland, in Ukraine, and in Slovakia) are the synonym of the area where you're going for refuge. I had exactly the same thought on last Tuesday when I asked my my boss to let me take the next part of my vacation ad hoc. And Jacek lent me his car to facilitate my travelling. In the light of a terrific weather breakdown of today (Monday 23rd of August), my decision to travel instantly appeared to be very smart.

Jacek had also taught me a lesson to ride just after the arrival to the chosen base to learn the terrain specifics and not waste a single day. My FB friend a.k.a. Watman asked me in a comment: "Why don't you just ride to the Ursa Maior Brewery as soon as you arrive to Ustrzyki Dolne? Greatly recommended!" As soon as I arrived at "overnight accommodation" (more on it later), after 8 1/2 hours spent in the car trip, I set off for a side-roads mountain ride (15:39). And something was telling me I should better hurry, so I was riding at high tempo!

And I was right: the brewery was closing at 17:00. I was just in time there!

Ursa Maior (Craft) Brewery is unique as for the area. Created by the iron will of Ms. Agnieszka Łopata, the facility only brews unfiltered and unpasteurized ales and stouts, and sells them at hefty price, mostly in the region. (Unpasteurized beer does not hold well so it has to be sold and drunk rather quickly). Against all criticism, Ms Łopata has been able to successfully grow her business; her beer is widely available throughout the region (but is rather unavailable outside Bieszczady). The brewery is only powered by solar panels, and even offers a charging station for EVs!

At the bar. The brewery makes six regular beer styles and occasional special brews. The brewery logo is a large she-bear (Ursa Maior). The brewery is also reiterating on the wolf and rebellion themes.

As in any class craft beer brewery, you can watch the production process.

Brewing education: Components, mashing, filtration, brewing, fermentation, maturation, bottling, storage & distribution.

Similarly to any good American craft beer brewery, Ursa Maior has a restaurant and a merchandise store. Unique is the part devoted to the beer vinegar, a novelty.

I ordered a litre and a half of "Wataha" (Pack of Wolves) 7.2% Strong Ale, and a small glass of "Renegat" (Renegade) 6% Black IPA. (Mineral water bottle was used).

I was returning to Ustrzyki Dolne by side-roads, over Góry Słonne (Austrian German: Berge Saana, English: Sanok Mountains). These are not Bieszczady, as Bieszczady are located in all directions southwards of Ustrzyki Dolne.

A mare with a colt.

Only 10% grade short climb? Hahahah! I eat these for breakfast!

\
Still in Góry Słonne.

Poland's domestic natural gas production covers 20% of the demand. We also produce a small amount of crude oil. There are many small oil & gas mining fields in the area. You can actually smell crude oil there! (What was the English name for this machine?)

Ustrzyki Dolne is the capital city of Bieszczady. More precisely, it is the "capital of the Bieszczady County" (as it is proudly named). There is a single good restaurant in the town, and I used to have dinners there. Yes, I started eating that regional meal to show you the structure. "Hryczanyk" (regional Ukrainian meal) is a ball made of meat and buckwheat groats. All in fungi sauce. Delicious! As I got me another half litre of "Renegat" ale to the dinner, I had to walk my Vado to the "overnight accommodation"!

A word on "overnight accommodation" (Polish: "noclegi"). Avoid at any cost, or get prepared. A "nocleg" is like Bed & Breakfast minus breakfast, towels, and toilet paper (Fortunately, I could make shopping in the town but I could not buy a towel because it was always too late!)

Ride Map and Metrics. Note pretty high average speed: I was in hurry!

 

[Prairie Dog]

Poland's domestic natural gas production covers 20% of the demand. We also produce a small amount of crude oil. There are many small oil & gas mining fields in the area. You can actually smell crude oil there! (What was the English name of this machine?)

Great trip report Stefan! Keep those pics coming. We call those pump jacks on this side of the pond though the one in your post looks more like a Mecanno set compared to the ones we see here on the prairies.

 

[Prairie Dog]

Pentapedal Locomotion …

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Gailes Golf Club, Brisbane​

Yesterday, as I neared the end of my ride, I spotted these golfing enthusiasts next to the quiet road that the authorities have seemed 'safe enough' for cyclists (it isn't, but that's another story involving bikeway funding).

Golf clubs saving money by employing wildlife to mow their greens is nothing new. I almost ignored them, but thought that it might be interesting to show our group how these fellows move around when great bounding leaps aren't the order of the day.

The eastern grey kangaroo so determined to hop out of the image has her – note the bulging pouches – forepaws extended and just off the ground. The tail has been lifted and all of her weight is on the hind legs. Three 'legs' on the ground.

The roo behind her has already made that move and is now moving her hindlimbs forward whilst supporting her entire weight on her forepaws and tail. Again, three-on-the-ground in contrast to bounding through the air, propelled by synchronised hindlimbs.

Effectively, five-legged gait: pentapedal locomotion!

Kangaroos ain't backward: come to think of it, moving in reverse isn't one of life's options.

Great shot. It’s intriguing to see so many roos on a golf course. Here it’s either geese, deer or elk depending on where you golf.

 

[kahn]

What is problematic with removing the thru-axle?! Lovely idea: it makes the rotor always precisely get between the brake pads without the need for adjusting the disc brakes. Also making the bike laterally stiffer.

Note: The wheel replacement is easier with the bike upside down. And as everything else, it requires practice.

Yes, but all those things mounted to the handlebars make inversion a bit problematic. But lying the bike down on pavement is not a pleasant choice either. It is nice to have a flat tire next to a nice thick lawn!!! A front flat is just easier to deal with overall.

 

[kahn]

Ursa Major is the Big Dipper star constellation.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Ursa Major is the Big Dipper star constellation.

Right. It can have multiple meaning, depending on the purpose.

 

[Prairie Dog]

Yes, but all those things mounted to the handlebars make inversion a bit problematic.

Inversion therapy. I've never thought of using that term when referring to bike repair in the field.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

The Most Remote Southeast Road Point of Poland
(Thursday 19th of August 2021. Base: Ustrzyki Dolne)

The second part of my vacation was greatly a sentimental journey. Back there in 1983, I and my best friend Julian attempted our luck with Bieszczady hitchhiking and mountain hiking. We were able to climb the most interesting peaks of the Polish part of Bieszczady, and we could even reach the peak of Krzemieniec Mt, which is at the junction of then Soviet, Czechoslovak and Polish borders. Unfortunately, we were met by heavy raining, and if it starts raining in Bieszczady, it would rain for a week So we (totally soaked) escaped Bieszczady to never return there...

It has been my dream to ride as far as possible by road to the most remote southeastern tip of Poland since.

Contrary to the popular (Polish) belief, Bieszczady proper only occupy the most remote southeastern tip of our country. The distances in the area are big. Just see how far Ustrzyki Dolne are from Bieszczady proper! (More on that later). Note: Mt. Tarnica is near to the most remote Polish location accessible by any road.

I rode out at 6:14 am. After having a breakfast at a petrol station (heheheh), I reached the first Uniate Orthodox church (of many more met later on my trip).

Historical note:
Before 1945, Bieszczady were inhabited by Lemkos, or the Rusyn/Ruthenian Highlanders. Their faith was Uniate, that is, Greek Orthodox united with the Catholic church but maintaining their rites, architecture, and script. Post WW2, terrible times came (1945-1950). Part of Lemko were forcibly resettled to the Soviet Union first. There was a guerrilla war in the area led by the UPA (Ukrainian Insurgency Army). To counter the insurgency, the government of People's Republic of Poland sent the troops in, and forcibly resettled the remaining Lemkos to Western Poland (formerly: Germany) in so called "Operation Vistula". (The forced resettlement was meant to depopulate the area and deprive the guerrillas of any local support). Only small part of Lemkos (perhaps 10%) returned to Bieszczady later.

I was climbing. Honestly, I started liking that! I knew that my effort would be eventually rewarded with long and fast descents (which I also liked). And I finally reached the Lutowiska Pass. The distant mountain range seen in this photo are Bieszczady proper. (The tallest mountain range seen is in Ukraine).

Bieszczady proper in a close-up. I took a long rest at the sight-seeing parking lot. While I was sitting on a bench, a man, wife and their teenage grandson joined me. The man offered coffee (which he expertly made on a miniature portable gas-stove). It turned out they were dedicated mountain hikers of lifetime experience. They shared a lot of stories with me. Like, he hiked on the paid expedition to the Mt Gerlach (the highest peak of High Tatra Mts, 2654 metres above sea level). The group was tied with a rope, and the guide was constantly instructing them "Go slower! Go faster! Don't stall!", and our man had to pay a lot for that "pleasure" I love such encounters and meeting such nice people!

HERE BE DRAGONS! Actually, beware of bears, lynx, or wolves. There is a large number of wild animals in Bieszczady. Especially, there are a lot of bears (so @kahn I agree Ursa Maior is a stellar constellation but the brewery's owner made an association with actual she-bear) You might ask "why so many bears?" and you would get an interesting answer. The Slovak decided to reduce the bear population by shooting them out. Bears are smart... so they immigrated to Poland, where nobody shoots at them! See a dustbin, protected the way a bear cannot open it. (I guess it is nothing special if we are talking Canada but these things were new to me).

Wołosaty, one of tributaries of the mighty River San. I stopped at a small location of Widełki where I learned you needed to pay a small fee to be admitted to the Bukowe Berdo (elevation 1311 m) hiking trail. Access to most of Polish National Parks is free. There are some exceptions though. (People I met before were heading to the Bukowe Berdo, actually).

Quarter past eleven, I reached the centre of Ustrzyki Górne, a popular hiking base to Bieszczady proper. Now, what is it all about Ustrzyki? Ustrzyki Dolne (Lower) is a city, the capital of the Bieszczady county. Ustrzyki Górne (Upper) is 45 km apart! There is only a coincidence of the name! (There in Ustrzyki Górne our 1983 escapade with Julian ended).

To be able to sit on a bench, I had to buy something. So I got me coffee, and a waffle with cream and blueberries

And I made it. Nearly. The village of Wołosate is where Poland almost ends... And the stream Wołosaty begins somewhere in the mountains around...

What a story! Two kilometres before my ultimate goal, I was stopped by a female Park ranger. She explained there was a bike ban in the Bieszczady National Park so I should leave my bike by the gate and walk next. I told her about my disability, about the price of my Vado (so I could not leave it unattended), and about my dream. She was a good person and let me go (later, she let another senior roadie to ride in, too). I thanked her very much on my return!

So I made my another dream come true: To reach the farthest southwest point accessible by road in Poland! And farther than a car could go!

Mt Tarnica (1346 m) doesn't look impressive, aye? Yet is is a meter taller than the Ben Nevis, the tallest summit of the United Kingdom And Tarnica is the fifth tallest summit of the Crown of the Polish Mountains. (True, the Ukrainian Bieszczady are even taller). Climbing Tarnica was the biggest achievement of Julian and me back in 1983.

I had to economize on batteries. So I took part of my return to Ustrzyki Górne with the power OFF; I was truly surprised I could pedal the "big" Vado unpowered but that was possible because of small decline, and the mountain gearing.

Not sure what I actually could see but that could be Wielka Rawka (1307 m), one of the summits we cleared on our hike with Julian, too.

Upon return to Ustrzyki Górne, I bought a bottle of Ursa Maior "Renegade" for Jacek (so I could sit on a bench, haha) and ate a big portion of cheese I brought with me. Then I made a decision to greatly extend my trip. Having had economized on the first battery, I had a fresh one at hand, and a lot of descents ahead. What I was not aware, though, the heaviest ascent was ahead as well...

Oh my... The climb from Ustrzyki Górne to Wyżniańska Pass seemed (at that time) to be one of the hardest I had to cope. Yet I was rewarded with the view at Połonina Caryńska Mt.

Naturalistic note:
I thought "połonina" (English: polonyna) was just a montane meadow of subalpine and alpine zone character, typical to Carpathians. And I was right, only didn't know the "połonina" actually meant a high mountain, too... (the meadows can be found atop of such mountains). Of course, Julian and I cleared one or two Połoninas on our youth hike.

I finally got my reward: a multi-kilometre descent down to the River San. (San was the theatre of cruel fighting between Austro-Hungarian and Russian armies during WW1).

When I climbed back onto the Lutowiska Pass, I had a lunch at Stanica Kresowa "Chreptiów" restaurant. Well, the service was terrible there. Ukrainian Borscht (beetroot soup with a lot of vegetables) and Pierogi Ruskie (Rusyn/Ruthenian pierogi) were adequate, although you never should expect big portions at a posh restaurant

The last look at the tallest part of Bieszczady. The darker twin peak visible in the photo centre is Tarnica. Just have a look how tall the Ukrainian Bieszczady (background) are!

Rail To Trail, eh? I made a promise to @Chargeride to take photos of the Bieszczady Bike Railroad carts. So I zoomed down to Ustrzyki Dolne, taking the virtue of descents and of the Turbo mode of my Vado. I was at the Railway Station before 17:00, yet there were no people there. The carts could be found, though. (I took pictures of people actually riding such carts on the next day, no worries).

My personal best in mountain road riding

Nice climbing, wasn't it.


Dedicated to the memory of Julian Rokicki (b. 1961 in Warsaw, d. 2015 in Rhode Island), the best friend of my youth.

 

[Camac]

I don't usually have time to stop and take photos and I didn't on this ride which we did in February. But someone else did. The weather was the same, cloudless sky, warm. The first half shows going to the dam, the second half back to Sailors cut. This is just one part of the Alps 2 Ocean trail (300km)

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Bieszczady Heart (On A Tether) Ride
(Friday 20th of August 2021. Base: Wołkowyja)

If you asked some average Poles to show Bieszczady on the map, they would loosely point at the area southwards of the Sanok-Lesko-Ustrzyki Dolne line, and eastwards of the Łupków Pass. "Bieszczady" in the general notion was a huge area that could be described as our "Wild Southeast". The theatre of violent guerrilla war with the UPA, depopulation by forced resettlement of native Łemko Highlanders, and wild space full of howling wolves where non-conformists were seeking their refuge, and often ended their lives drowned in the sea of vodka... Romantic as hell!

There is a 1958 movie by name of "Baza Ludzi Umarłych" (The Base of Dead People). A group of outcasts work as truck drivers in Bieszczady for transporting timber. Their trucks are almost scrap; vodka is flowing. A Party activist is sent to tell the people off from leaving work, and he comes there with his wife Wanda. The truck drivers begin courting her. Wanda asks any potential lover for just one thing: "Take me away from this desolated place!" Soon, a tragedy must happen...

I left Ustrzyki Dolne for good, and drove to Wołkowyja (Ukrainian: Wolf Howling, heheh). Although Bieszczady are now pretty civilized, the road around the Solina Lake was heavily damaged by raining, and was under repair. That made me reach my ride base rather slowly.

Beautiful Lake Solina in its early morning glory. The huge artificial lake on River San was created between 1961 and 1968 by building dams and hydro powerplants in Myczkowce, then in Solina. Now, Lake Solina is a major recreational area, where you can sail boats, for instance.

A recollection
In 2008, our family went on the Lake Balaton in Hungary for vacation. In one of the wineries (where we were buying wine by 5 litre canisters), an elderly Hungarian worker approached us and started talking in... pure Polish! He told us he used to work as a construction worker for the dam in Solina for five years and he learned speaking fluent Polish there!

Eventually, I reached Wołkowyja. Now, bear in mind if you ever plan to be driving in Poland: Cannot find a parking space? Find a church! It is guaranteed you'll find free parking space there (check if it is not a Sunday morning, though) I could start my ride!

There are many creeks in the area. This kind of ford is typical there.

Landscape of the northern leg of my ride.

A historical note
1947 was the time of the most violent fighting between UPA guerrillas and the People's Polish Army troops in the very area. General "Walter" (Karol Świerczewski) was on his inspection trip when he was met by three bullets from Ukrainian combatants on March 28th, 1947. That very fact made the Polish authorities so upset they started the "Operation Vistula" soon... (as you have already learnt that led to the depopulation of Bieszczady for many years).

Consistently pedalling, I reached Cisna, an important base for mountain hiking, skiing, and whatnot. I went into the "Auberge Under A Shaggy Angel" , and although I was treated as an intruder (I was not a hotel guest), I managed to buy me a breakfast, which I had to eat outside

My ultimate goal was to climb mountains to reach the Ruské Pass, and have a look at Slovakia from Bieszczady Mts (I was in Bieszczady proper again!)

Let me save my breath The translator made a single mistake in the text: The place was never called the "Russian Gate". It was either Rusyn or Ruthenian Gate (the gate to Ruthenia). There is a common misconception in Poland. The word "Ruski" means Rusyn/Ruthenian (Ukrainian from former "great" Poland) while many people think it means "Russkiy" (Russian).
Our "pierogi ruskie" never were any Russian; they were Ruthenian.

Slovak Bieszczady as seen from the Ruské Pass. The sign reads "National Park of Polonyna".

Then I climbed onto a pretty new wooden observation tower for even better view (the tower was made for EU money).

The road to Slovakia was under reconstruction. I dared to ride down a little bit. When I saw cobblestones, I said something very nasty under my breath, and then returned to Poland (I mention from time to time I am not fond of Slovakia and you may understand me better now...)

The last look at the Ruské Pass from the Slovak side.

Most of bridges in Bieszczady are wooden. In case of flood (these happen often there), it is cheap to make a new wooden bridge.

On my return to Cisna, I found there was an operating Bieszczady Forest Railway!

Under the steam! The railway operates both steam and diesel engines. There were crowds of people willing to take a ride! (The train reaches Balnica at the Slovak border, and then you have the option to come back with the same or another train).

Upon returning to the car, I had to relocate to the next base, that is, Krynica-Zdrój. Fortunately, the car route led via Uherce Mineralne, where I revisited the Ursa Maior Brewery for even more ale And -- to my surprise -- I found the Bieszczady Bike Railroad Cart station there! With people ready to start the ride! @Chargeride, something for you!

I asked the man nearest to me whether pedalling the cart was hard. "Oh no, so easy a kid can pedal it!" (I attribute it to very low rolling resistance of the railroad). But... can you see what I can see now? An upside-down house! How could I have overlooked it?!

Unawares, I completed the "Bieszczady Heart Loop" I dedicated the ride to my gf @Brix who laughingly replied: "Ha! Heart but a tethered one!"

 

[ActionJackson]

Wanda asks any potential lover for just one thing: "Take me away from this desolated place!"

I imagine you took her side-straddling the rear rack ?

 

[Deleted member 18083]

And to my surprise, I found the Bieszczady Bike Railroad Cart station there! With people ready to start the ride!

Jen and I were travelling through Japan some years ago when I spotted these older folk on an outing, and couldn't resist recording their joy. Autumn leaves were signalling that Hokkaido would soon be in winter's icy grip…

Onuma Marsh, Hokkaido, Japan
October 2007

​

 

[Dallant]

View attachment 97690


Jen and I were travelling through Japan some years ago when I spotted these older folk on an outing, and couldn't resist recording their joy. Autumn leaves were signalling that Hokkaido would soon be in winter's icy grip…

View attachment 97689

Onuma Marsh, Hokkaido, Japan
October 2007

View attachment 97692
​

Looks like big kids riding their tricycles.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I imagine you took her side-straddling the rear rack ?

Only if she weighed 22 kg and I had no panniers already on the rack

 

[RabH]

@Stefan Mikes It looks like you had an amazing trip, I'm loving your photos and stories!

Another beautiful day for cycling, the second half of August has made up for the awful first half! There was a risk of fog this morning but when I set off it was looking good! See how calm the water is, very little wind once again!

A few miles further and the mist descended but none of the thick fog they were forecasting!

Thankfully it cleared up on my return journey!

Lots of climbing and descending once again, I was only intending to do around 35 miles but my return road was closed so I had to divert which turned out to be a blessing as the roads were very quiet and pretty awesome! I decided to slow down a bit today (well slow for me ) as my legs have been feeling it recently, I'm no spring chicken now! I do think I have been overdoing it a bit so I will try to resist the temptation to ride like a nutter! I was finding it more relaxing going a little slower, its very theraputic!

 

[Haystacks]

The rain decided to stop yesterday, so i went on my first 'dry' run, i say dry it was still muddy, that thick claggy clay like mud with deep puddles here and there but at least it wasn't raining like every previous ride in the last few weeks. I completed my first ascent up a steep, rocky, scree like path and began the descent down a mixed trail, mainly singletrack, some ancient sections of path and some bog, when i was ambushed by a group of mixed age males, they blocked the path ahead and others blocked off any retreat whence i came. I resolutely decided that i was going to stand my ground and that if this stand off came to a head i would protect the bike at all costs, there was no way i was going to wait for new parts/frame etc and i reasoned that if i ended up with broken bones i would heal before a new bike could be acquired. I managed to get a picture of these thugs thankfully....

Unnerving though, i came around the corner and this was what greeted me, a further dozen or so came down the bank behind and blocked the gate

All bulls, the big ones are the black mass on the right they look like 3yo.

What you can't see is that there is a spring where the little ones are on the path, i give them 5 minutes to finish drinking then moved them on

Onwards and upwards....

Food and hydration stop, these are great spots to 'be in the moment'

No bikes were harmed during this photo.

Back to lovely and clean.

 

[kahn]

The rain decided to stop yesterday, so i went on my first 'dry' run, i say dry it was still muddy, that thick claggy clay like mud with deep puddles here and there but at least it wasn't raining like every previous ride in the last few weeks. I completed my first ascent up a steep, rocky, scree like path and began the descent down a mixed trail, mainly singletrack, some ancient sections of path and some bog, when i was ambushed by a group of mixed age males, they blocked the path ahead and others blocked off any retreat whence i came. I resolutely decided that i was going to stand my ground and that if this stand off came to a head i would protect the bike at all costs, there was no way i was going to wait for new parts/frame etc and i reasoned that if i ended up with broken bones i would heal before a new bike could be acquired. I managed to get a picture of these thugs thankfully....





View attachment 97779



Unnerving though, i came around the corner and this was what greeted me, a further dozen or so came down the bank behind and blocked the gate

All bulls, the big ones are the black mass on the right they look like 3yo.

What you can't see is that there is a spring where the little ones are on the path, i give them 5 minutes to finish drinking then moved them on

Onwards and upwards....

View attachment 97780

Food and hydration stop, these are great spots to 'be in the moment'

View attachment 97781
No bikes were harmed during this photo.

View attachment 97782
Back to lovely and clean.

That picture of the cows/bulls could be an 18th century painting in a museum. The colors and lighting and composition. I really like it.

The muddy bike, not so much! (g)

On second look that darn ear tag ruins the 18th century mood - maybe they had ear tags back then?

 

[Mulezen]

Brueghal I thought looking at the bucolic scene. Also I thought Charolais cattle…which I have found to be dangerous in the confines of the stockyard

 

[kahn]

Brueghal I thought looking at the bucolic scene. Also I thought Charolais cattle…which I have found to be dangerous in the confines of the stockyard

Yes, that painter does come to mind. Thanks.

 

[Haystacks]

That picture of the cows/bulls could be an 18th century painting in a museum. The colors and lighting and composition. I really like it.

The muddy bike, not so much! (g)

On second look that darn ear tag ruins the 18th century mood - maybe they had ear tags back then?

It did feel like that at the time, like stepping back to a bygone age; Old Oak tree, Spring water trough and baby bulls, awww.