Okay, talk me out of cancelling my CCS order

Obviously affordability is a factor. Just remember that price is just one of many components that constitute value.

As John Ruskin once said,

“It's unwise to pay too much, but it's worse to pay too little. When
you pay too much, you lose a little money - that's all. When you pay
too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you
bought was incapable of doing the thing it was bought to do. The
common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a
lot - it can't be done. If you deal with the lowest bidder, it is well
to add something for the risk you run, and if you do that you will
have enough to pay for something better.”
 
@Alaskan
As a successful business owner, I wholeheartedly agree with you and Mr. Ruskin. Buy once, cry once. However, in the case of the CCS it has been found to have one of the best ratios between value and quality. You have chosen wisely with quality bikes that will give you great value. Others here may not yet have the resources or may not wish to allocate the higher amount towards an E-bike. I myself am not limited by funds on my purchase but rather how much I wish to allocate for a bike. I do love quality and the older I get the more quality plays an important roll in my decisions. Cheers and congrats on your new R&M.
 
@Alaskan
As a successful business owner, I wholeheartedly agree with you and Mr. Ruskin. Buy once, cry once. However, in the case of the CCS it has been found to have one of the best ratios between value and quality. You have chosen wisely with quality bikes that will give you great value. Others here may not yet have the resources or may not wish to allocate the higher amount towards an E-bike. I myself am not limited by funds on my purchase but rather how much I wish to allocate for a bike. I do love quality and the older I get the more quality plays an important roll in my decisions. Cheers and congrats on your new R&M.

Understood. We all have different priorities and means.

I have recommended that friends look into the CCS as it surely offers one the best cost/capability values.

This thread, by its title, asked to be talked out of a decision. That is what I responded to.
 
IT is hard to judge the premium price for the premium ebikes, unless you ride the cheaper one then the premium brand.

I've done this more than once, and the premium bike was always worth it to me.. Then it became a matter of buying that bike at the lowest possible price.

I've ridden the CCS and it seems OK, but I would gladly spend another $1000 and find the Trek or the STromer or the Haibike left over model and buy that instead.

And that's how I bought my Stromer.. Found it on ebay from a bike shop the was selling out old stock.. got it for cheap and it was a pleasure to ride.
 
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PS can someone explain why hybrid commuters have steeper head tube angles but electric ones don't? Checked a few of each and it's consistently 72 vs 70. Road bikes are 73-74. Maybe to make the steering less twitchy for safe higher speed handling?

Yep, improved stability. Kind of like how I bought the Outback instead of the Forester because my job takes me on the road a lot and the longer wheelbase gives a better ride.

I wish the CCS had another couple of degrees of rake -- I'd trade off some nimbleness for greater stability myself.
 
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Just remember with the Trek bike you have a local bike shop to take care of any issues under warranty. The value of that is hard to quantify.

Also the Trek has an overall much higher quality list of components:


  1. Shimano Diore XT with 11 speed shadow derailleur
  2. Tektro Brakes vs shimano,
  3. The difference in rims and tires - Kenda vs Schwalbe
  4. a gorgeous, superbly built and finished frame vs solid but not nearly as polished
  5. M99 Pure Supernova light, an amazing headlight, probably the best out there that costs $300
  6. Carbon fiber fork vs low end spring front shock
  7. better weight distribution with the center drive
  8. the Bosch system which seems to have the best reliability stats of any system out there.

Hello, I own two Trek e-bikes, an XM700+ Commuter and a Powerfly 7 MTB. I have no knowledge of the
Juiced CCS product so in fairness I won't comment.

My experience with Trek and the bikes I own has been 110%. I am extremely pleased with both bikes
and the role they serve. They are solid, solid solid. The Bosch Power systems are powerful, seamless and silky smooth.
The Bosch CX motor used on the MTB has a much wider torque curve and is so fun to ride. It will go up a brick wall. The
Performance line on the XM 700 ( commuter) is all about speed.

Treks support and service via my LBS has been spot on. A quick Trek service story I love to tell...

When my Powerfly 7 MTB arrived the Bosch Intuvia Controller was damaged in shipping. Bosch distributes
parts via a third party distributor, Trek had no controllers to ship and the third party distributor was backordered 3 weeks.
What to do ? We could ( the LBS ) have purchased a controller from a retailer who had one in stock, instead....
Trek immediately shipped another Powerfly7 MTB, UPS Freight from Waterloo Wisconin and I was riding in 5 days.

As mentioned in the prior post by Alaskan the components are high quality and have been rock solid. Combined milage
on both bikes 2000 miles.

Is the price difference worth it ? ....That is a personal choice.... My choice, I enjoyed my XM700+ so much, but wanted
something a bit more stable for gravel trail riding, so ordered and bought the Powerfly7 having never ridden it, based on my XM700+. I do not regret my decision one bit. That is a long answer to say that Trek quality and the price that goes along with it is worth it to me.
I hope this was helpful.

John from CT
 
Yeah I found it kind of odd that the frames beyond the seatposts are identical. You can always just rip off some other company's geometry for a similar class of bike. Maybe it made standardizing the battery compartment/wiring easier? Or they could get cost reductions through higher volume production of identical top and downtubes?

PS can someone explain why hybrid commuters have steeper head tube angles but electric ones don't? Checked a few of each and it's consistently 72 vs 70. Road bikes are 73-74. Maybe to make the steering less twitchy for safe higher speed handling?

That's interesting and something I'd never noticed before.

I guess some might argue that you want slacker angles for the higher speeds, but that doesn't make sense to me. As you point out road bikes have steeper angles and they're faster than hybrids. If you're averaging 35 km/hr. on your electric bike then you're doing pretty good but pro tour cyclists average that over very longer stretches and they have steep head tube angles.
 
That's interesting and something I'd never noticed before.

I guess some might argue that you want slacker angles for the higher speeds, but that doesn't make sense to me. As you point out road bikes have steeper angles and they're faster than hybrids. If you're averaging 35 km/hr. on your electric bike then you're doing pretty good but pro tour cyclists average that over very longer stretches and they have steep head tube angles.

But pro cyclists need highly precise steering to maximize performance. For us Joe Blows, it's more a curse than a blessing since we may screw up a turn and end up on our back, without the upside of potentially winning a race. Just a guess, that more deliberate steering makes more sense for casual users.

Kind of funny how all the makers settle on the same head tube angle independently. But the other makers tend to have reach and wheelbase vary by size.

Trek: 70 deg at 55cm
Turbo Vado: 70 degrees
Smart Motion: 69
Stromer ST2: 70.3

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For what its worth, i got a 350mm for my ccs, and is good

I have the Suntour NCX post on my commuter. One thing about this post. The way it works isn't just up and down. It works by shifting the seat down and back about 3 inches. If your bike fits you perfectly, then this top tube "extension" is going to make the bike feel too big.

I now have it on my road bike which has a shorter top tube and the NCX post makes it just right.
 
If your bike fits you perfectly, then this top tube "extension" is going to make the bike feel too big.

This is true of most suspensions seatposts. They push the seat back somewhat. Definitely something most buyers aren’t considering when selecting the frame size. I have a Body Float and I’m glad I went with the M CC and not the L (I’m 5’9”). The Cross Current already fits big more like a mountain bike frame and less like a hybrid IMO.
 
Was this posted publicly? Don't see it on FB or ig.

Assuming this is true... very cool. Funny how they can barely keep stuff in stock but that doesn't deter them from doing new models.

I'm guessing it will be a mountain bike. They don't have any in their range, so it would be an obvious hole to fill. Then again, that may require a mid drive and they haven't used one before.
 
Well I'm not happy! About 2 weeks ago I had emailed Juiced about upgrading to a 10 speed drivetrain, and inquired about when I would likely be getting my bike. Their response was, out of stock on the 10 speed, and I should see shipping between 4-19 and 4-26. I emailed Juiced 2 days ago, (4-25,) about a time frame for getting my bike. They finally replied today and stated my bike would hopefully be shipped between 5-9 and 5-16. I am very frustrated right now. I am basically looking at a minimum of 2 months between my purchase and the bike being shipped, and that is assuming Juiced will even ship on the new dates. When I ordered it was slated for April delivery. They really need to get their distribution problems figured out.
I am planning on going to test ride a few ebikes tomorrow. Will see how it goes.
I am beginning to think I should've just built a bike. I'd have been riding it for a good while now. :mad:
 
Chris, I know it's frustrating. I ordered late September and I was told October delivery, which became November and eventually I got the bike on Dec 23rd.

However, now that I have the bike the wait was worth it. The value of this bike is so much greater than the competitors.

Perhaps it was a bit easier for me to wait as the weather was lousy and now is prime riding weather, but you'll be happy once you get the bike.
 
Let it be 52V, for goodness sake because 48V gets very weak near the bottom of its discharge curve with the present motors and 52V does not.

52V should be the coming standard for new Juiced bikes. Opinion. Fact. Choose any two.
If this is what 48v bikes are like, how do 36V do anything?

I start to notice power cut at around 48-47. You?
 
If this is what 48v bikes are like, how do 36V do anything?

I start to notice power cut at around 48-47. You?
36V bikes simply do not go as fast. The so termed 36V motor may even be the same winding. 36v bikes are 20mph or lower, as a general rule.

Counter EMF is the reason motors given, say, full voltage and under no external load will run up to some particular speed and no more. Increase the supply voltage to overcome the counter EMF (so to speak) up to some higher RPM.

Set your low voltage cutoff at 40. That will help because the internal resistance of the battery plus current demands will cause instantaneous drops of voltage into the LVC area if you have it set at say 44V and the battery is down to say 47.
 
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