Lugging a Motor, Why it's Bad

I just checked again, I'm over 2,000mi. on a 1,000 watt mid drive and some of the links are less than .5% and some are slightly over. I guess the chain does not wear evenly. I think I can stretch it (excuse the pun) to 3,000mi.
Why accelerate the wear on your cassette, pulleys, and chainring for the cost of a new chain — especially with a high-powered mid-drive in the mix?
 
Well, first of all, I'm no expert. Secondly, I've read in numerous places that a 9 speed chain should be replaced when it reaches .75. Since I'm not there yet, how am I accelerating the wear on my cassette? Third, I have a new cassette and chain ring ready to install if needed. Are you saying if any one link goes past .5 the chain needs replaced? If replacing at .5 saves the cassette I'll replace the chain now.
 
Well, first of all, I'm no expert. Secondly, I've read in numerous places that a 9 speed chain should be replaced when it reaches .75. Since I'm not there yet, how am I accelerating the wear on my cassette? Third, I have a new cassette and chain ring ready to install if needed. Are you saying if any one link goes past .5 the chain needs replaced? If replacing at .5 saves the cassette I'll replace the chain now.
Any wear on the chain is wearing the sprockets more... but 0.5 it's probably negligible and as you state the recommended wear is 0.75 so I'm comfortable going with the established recommendation.
ymmv
 
Well, first of all, I'm no expert. Secondly, I've read in numerous places that a 9 speed chain should be replaced when it reaches .75. Since I'm not there yet, how am I accelerating the wear on my cassette? Third, I have a new cassette and chain ring ready to install if needed. Are you saying if any one link goes past .5 the chain needs replaced? If replacing at .5 saves the cassette I'll replace the chain now.
My apologies. You're right about the 0.75" limit. I shouldn't read and write half-asleep.
 
I know a guy who brags that he only needs one pair of boxers for a four day trip. He goes front, then back, then inside out, front and back. Personally I would rather change it before it 'needs' changing.
 
Well great, after reading Jeremy's post I felt shamed into changing the chain. It's done and it's a good feeling to have a new chain on there even if there was some life left in the old one. My plan now is to run this one until the gears start slipping, then replace cassette, front sprocket and chain altogether. I've read that you can really only get two chains out of a rear cassette so no sense in trying to save it for a third chain. I'm all ears if anyone thinks differently. Can you run THREE chains to one cassette? Maybe by replacing before .75 it's possible?
 
Well great, after reading Jeremy's post I felt shamed into changing the chain. It's done and it's a good feeling to have a new chain on there even if there was some life left in the old one. My plan now is to run this one until the gears start slipping, then replace cassette, front sprocket and chain altogether. I've read that you can really only get two chains out of a rear cassette so no sense in trying to save it for a third chain. I'm all ears if anyone thinks differently. Can you run THREE chains to one cassette? Maybe by replacing before .75 it's possible?
I wouldn't run three chains to one cassette... The derailleur will have one hell of a time synchronizing gear shifts 🤣
 
I'd still love to see an o-ring bicycle chain. I ran a non o-ring chain on my sport bike and got about 8,000mi. on it before it was worn out, I'm talking 35 years ago. Then I switched to an o-ring chain and got 30,000mi. out of that one. Of course there would be a weight penalty for an o-ring bike chain but I'd gladly pay it. In fact an o-ring chain really doesn't need to be lubed as the lube is sealed in. So you could have a super clean chain that lasts 10x longer than what we have now.
 
I'd still love to see an o-ring bicycle chain. I ran a non o-ring chain on my sport bike and got about 8,000mi. on it before it was worn out, I'm talking 35 years ago. Then I switched to an o-ring chain and got 30,000mi. out of that one. Of course there would be a weight penalty for an o-ring bike chain but I'd gladly pay it. In fact an o-ring chain really doesn't need to be lubed as the lube is sealed in. So you could have a super clean chain that lasts 10x longer than what we have now.
Probably could be done for a one to one sproket set up... But those with derailleurs??
But then one to one setups last longer in general and don't need to be changed until the reach 1.0 as well.
 
Can you run THREE chains to one cassette? Maybe by replacing before .75 it's possible?
It depends on your riding environment and how often you clean it. I could easily get three chains out of a cassette on my race bike, because I cleaned it every 2-3 weeks, or right after racing or training in the rain. I'm not talking about using brushes or floss, I'm talking about taking the chain and cassette off of the bike and cleaning it in the ultrasonic. These were 10 and eventually 11 speed chains.
 
My old tank died. Now I am getting a new larger one. It is 2L. I know a guy who waxes his ass; isn't that the start of a limerick? In an illustrated book?

 

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Well great, after reading Jeremy's post I felt shamed into changing the chain. It's done and it's a good feeling to have a new chain on there even if there was some life left in the old one. My plan now is to run this one until the gears start slipping, then replace cassette, front sprocket and chain altogether. I've read that you can really only get two chains out of a rear cassette so no sense in trying to save it for a third chain. I'm all ears if anyone thinks differently. Can you run THREE chains to one cassette? Maybe by replacing before .75 it's possible?
Well I guess now we'll never know if you magic wax wet lube encapsulation process is for real or a fugazi.
I'm still not at .75 with 3100 miles... but I am do for a Rohloff oil change.
smash.gif
 
I have been riding a fast analog bike for about five days. It has been great to practice pedaling technique and spinning at high cadence. I needed to make a house call, that means tools so I packed up and took a torque sensor mid-drive. The pedaling practice really paid off. And at a cadence of 90-110 I was not at all lugging that bike. That one is very simple and inexpensive to maintain. An 11-34 freewheel is about $20. And it is as fast or faster than high-end eBikes.

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,.. An 11-34 freewheel is about $20. And it is as fast or faster than high-end eBikes.

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It's even faster on an off-the-deep-end eBike,..


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Looks like I'll be needing to replace the 11 tooth cog soon?
It looks pretty much worn out. 😁

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On a related note, my hub motor ebikes prevent severe lugging of the motor by cutting the power after a couple of seconds if the power is applied and the wheel doesn't turn.
 
It is badly misshapen. One looks like a shark fin.
You could keep it and just not use that cog.
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I was referring to the dust on it.
I've never had it in 7th gear. 😄


I remember buying the first full suspension mountain bike available at Canadian Tire in the early 90's.
A CCM Supra.

I took it back the next day to complain that the sprockets were all worn out and bent to s*it !!

The store manager looked at it then phoned CCM to ask about it.
He came back out and said that it was normal.

The chain rings weren't nicely machined, they were stamped, and they looked like they got stuck in in the stamping machine.

It worked though.
The worn looking teeth followed the "pins" that were punched into the side of the chain ring.
You could see the chain climb up the sprocket when the pedals were unweighted.
 
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