Known Issues & Problems with Riese & Müller Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes

Guys, those that have done it, is it just a bit of rubber, with a hole in it, then drill a hole in the stand and fit the rubber with a self tapping screw? Is it as simple as that? I guess you need to line the rubber up to ensure it slots in the right place when closed to ensure no rattle?

Yes, it can be is a simple as that ... In my case I tapped it first and then used a normal M3 screw and just for fun I 3D-printed (TPU) the rubber cube :) but for sure you can just cut a piece of rubber and trim it to your satisfaction.. mine is 5mm thick, I felt that at this distance the kickstand spring tension is optimal ..but it is just my feeling
 
Guys, those that have done it, is it just a bit of rubber, with a hole in it, then drill a hole in the stand and fit the rubber with a self tapping screw? Is it as simple as that? I guess you need to line the rubber up to ensure it slots in the right place when closed to ensure no rattle?
I just used superglue on a piece of rubber. The job took 60 seconds snd many weeks later it still works.
 
Thanks guys, I have a rattle over really tough surfaces, but, when I take a look at the stand, it sits very tight to the frame when in the up position and I find it hard to believe it could be the issue. I assumed my rattle was the rear mud guard. I guess if I do this simple fix I will know what it is afterwards. Thanks........
 
@marcparnes Many thanks for the photos and feedback, I just did the same and it works !! No rattle sounds anymore !! kickstand stays a bit low but I dont think it will be an issue ..
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To me that looks to be too thick on the rubber, It does not need to be so thick. It leaves the kickstand at a noticeably lower angle rather than perpendicular. I think @marcparnes got it right with the piece of vaccum belt, not too thick and very durable.
 
In the German Forum "pedelecforum.de" are only a few dozens Supercharger drivers and they reported around 17 cases (Luggage Rack in German is "Gepäckträger"). Most of the racks collapsed in less than 6 months. Some owners said, they never put heavy loads on that racks... some collapsed after only a few weeks!
But there was never a recall! They replace the rack when its broken.
I am an engineer. I can calculate. In my opinion the risk that the rack will collapse on my 300+miles trip with bagagge over very high mountains was around 50%. In their idea I can then search there in the high mountains an R&M contract dealer ... and wait there days or more likely weeks for a new rack.... which may hopefully be better.
And when the rack collapses with load (max. 20kg allowed): Dont you see a risk for an accident? I do! This is why I cancelled the trip last year. The trip which was the main reason why I bought such an expensive bike!

I tried to contact the "Customer Support" only once. Because the Torx screws near the rear axle were lose after a few weeks and I wanted to tighten them with the correct torque. But in the operating manual you don't find that important torque numbers(!). My dealer's shop was closed, so I tried to write an email to the "Customer Care" in the headquarter. After a few days I got an answer that they only can help me when I write them the Serial Number of the Bike. I understood and wrote them the number and after a few more days I got a Telephone Call from Germany(!). An extremely arrogant person told me that they never give the torques to an end customer. I need to go to the dealer to tighten any screws! I tried to explain that I am an engineer an I even have to train our mechanics using torque wrenches when there are quality issues with loosen screws on our products... no sense. They did not give me the number. In his mind I am not even allowed to remove the rear wheel myself. Everything has to be done from the contract dealer! (The same dealer who wanted 50$ to update the engine software to the actual version at my only 6 weeks old bike...!)

You may understand that I am not very pleasured to try to contact the R&M customer "care" again.
As I said before. I was a big Fan from R&M. And I still love my Supercharger GX HS Rohloff. This is is such a fantastic bike! But with this kind of "Customer Support" I dont want to deal anymore. This destroys even the best product!
It's old news now, I know, but just letting you know I had very similar experiences with the rear rack breaking as you. In fact I needed 3 replacement racks in 5,000km. The problem were cracking across the back-stay welds and also the top connector plate. Like for you, my planned tour (through Europe in 2018) was severely disrupted by this problem. At no time I had no more than 12-14 kg total on the rack, in 2 panniers + dry bag on top. After 3 replacements in 5000km the 1 year warranty was expired (we Australians are only allowed 90 days in 180 in Shengen, and so the bike was left idle for 9 months before I could return again to continue my trip), and the LBS was then no longer prepared to look at it any more. However, R&M had improved the rack by then by modifying the bottom brackets. Also, I modified the top connection myself by using stainless steel through-bolts and lock nuts instead of the original threading of the steel screws directly into the aluminium plate , which is a very stupid design - of course the steel will fatigue the aluminium thread! I also bought a front rack (FAIV Hoogar) and this carry even less load on the bike. I have had no further rack failures after 12,000 km more travelling throughout 2019. I wrote about all the drama it caused on my blog at www.ebiketraveller.site
Cheers, Poigle (Paul)
 
R&M did address the original rack issue , however i posted way back my problem with the pannier rack paint and how much wear and tear my canvas Ortlieb panniers caused , they sent me some tuff tape to cover all the points , Never had that problem with Tubus racks , for such an expensive bike you would have thought they would have used quality paint in the first place
 
R&M did address the original rack issue , however i posted way back my problem with the pannier rack paint and how much wear and tear my canvas Ortlieb panniers caused , they sent me some tuff tape to cover all the points , Never had that problem with Tubus racks , for such an expensive bike you would have thought they would have used quality paint in the first place
I might get some of that tape!
 
Unfortunately, the paint on any rack wears with otherwise excellent Ortlieb panniers. Applying the protecting tape at the connection points of the rack is necessary. Is it a Racktime or Topeak or Pletscher rack.
 
Unfortunately, the paint on any rack wears with otherwise excellent Ortlieb panniers. Applying the protecting tape at the connection points of the rack is necessary. Is it a Racktime or Topeak or Pletscher rack.
Supercharger 2018 rack designed by R&M with an MIK fit on top, made by R&M's frame partner.
When my rack plate up top broke, it was a major source of rattle :)
 
Persistent rattle at rear on R&M Delite.
I now believe my most persistent rattle is primarily coming from the rear mudguard where the stay is attached to the mudguard. I plan to bond both of the stays to the mudguard with some Sikaflex 11fc so will keep you posted if this is a solution. I need to remove the rear wheel and allow some cure time so hopefully will do this in the next week or so. Even if the bond strength to the mudguard material is limited I expect that maximising the contact area on the mudguard and filling the gap between the stay and the mudguard should eliminate the problem.
I have had a rubber on the kickstand contact but think this issue is only in play over major bumps. I might replace this piece of rubber with a bead of 11fc also as the rubber is reluctant to stay attached.
Cheers Stephen
 
Persistent rattle at rear on R&M Delite.
I now believe my most persistent rattle is primarily coming from the rear mudguard where the stay is attached to the mudguard. I plan to bond both of the stays to the mudguard with some Sikaflex 11fc so will keep you posted if this is a solution. I need to remove the rear wheel and allow some cure time so hopefully will do this in the next week or so. Even if the bond strength to the mudguard material is limited I expect that maximising the contact area on the mudguard and filling the gap between the stay and the mudguard should eliminate the problem.
I have had a rubber on the kickstand contact but think this issue is only in play over major bumps. I might replace this piece of rubber with a bead of 11fc also as the rubber is reluctant to stay attached.
Cheers Stephen
One of the things that i like about the SKS Blumels (mudguard) is that when you have a crash (not all) they snap apart, and sometimes you can just snap them back into place. If this happens, it takes the shock without damaging the whole thing.
 
SKS Blumel
Hi, Yes I was not aware of the fact that they are just clipped to the stay but having now looked at the parts description that would appear to explain why that is the source of the rattle. I will look at forming a Sikaflex bead at either extremity of the stay where it contacts the side of the guard and see if that fixes the rattle and still maintains the functionality. If not I think I will prefer to eliminate the rattle and avoid crashing. Cheers Stephen.

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Hi, Yes I was not aware of the fact that they are just clipped to the stay but having now looked at the parts description that would appear to explain why that is the source of the rattle. I will look at forming a Sikaflex bead at either extremity of the stay where it contacts the side of the guard and see if that fixes the rattle and still maintains the functionality. If not I think I will prefer to eliminate the rattle and avoid crashing. Cheers Stephen.

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Silence not rattle!!!!

I now have removed the rear wheel and for my Delite the retaining bracket for the mudguard is in fact a metal clamp(see photo) rather than the plastic clip as shown in the parts diagram. Although the clamp is tight the stay has been moving within the clamp and hitting one side or the other of the mudguard. As this clamp is fixed and not meant to be a quick release I have applied a generous amount of Sikaflex 11fc to both bond the bracket to the stay and space the stay away from the sides of the mudguard. I now have no more persistent rattle and enjoyable silence instead. I also have applied a bead of Sikalflex 11FC to the kickstand contact points so currently have eliminated much of the noise from the kickstand seating however it remains to be seen how long this Sikaflex will remain in place.

I do expect the mudguard fix to be a long term solution so if your mudguard currently can move sideways on the stay a good thing to consider doing.

Cheers Stephen.
 

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I had the same problem with the SKS rear fender on my Homage. I took the mount apart, wrapped the middle of the metal struts where it passes through the nylon "P" clip with two layers of black electrical tape and reassembled it. That gave it enough diameter to totally and permanently silence it.
 
Alaskan, can you show us a picture of what/where you mean please?
It's in the "delite1A.jpg photo by E14Delite above. The bolt goes through the p bracket that holds the center of the stay rod. By removing the rod and giving it two wraps of electrical tape where it passes through the p bracket it becomes a little thicker, which makes it snug when reassembled, eliminating the rattle.
 
This is perfect! Returning from holiday with the Delight on the bike rack I looked in the rear view and noticed the rear fender was flapping in the wind like a flag, I used a velcro strap for the balance of the trip and when I got home I had a horrid new rattle. I have tightened the Torx bolt for the fender with no improvement. Now I know what to do, thank you all.
 
Thanks guys, I have a rattle over really tough surfaces, but, when I take a look at the stand, it sits very tight to the frame when in the up position and I find it hard to believe it could be the issue. I assumed my rattle was the rear mud guard. I guess if I do this simple fix I will know what it is afterwards. Thanks........
Was the stand on my bike making noise, still is if you. ride on rough enough terrain. You can wriggle the stand by hand when its upright and my bike will move/sway a little every time i place it on the stand
 
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