Known Issues & Problems with Riese & Müller Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes

[Scott Eakin]

This is perfect! Returning from holiday with the Delight on the bike rack I looked in the rear view and noticed the rear fender was flapping in the wind like a flag, I used a velcro strap for the balance of the trip and when I got home I had a horrid new rattle. I have tightened the Torx bolt for the fender with no improvement. Now I know what to do, thank you all.

Well, mine was a bit more of a PIA due to the plastic clip for the fender breaking. Fender washer to the rescue!! But its quiet and solid now. Thanks again.

 

[JVBulman]

Learned a new one today: If you're bringing a Nyon bike in for service, disable the WiFi function beforehand as updating the firmware while the WiFi is active can brick the display unit, for which the only solution is a warranty replacement.

 

[E14Delite]

Well, mine was a bit more of a PIA due to the plastic clip for the fender breaking. Fender washer to the rescue!! But its quiet and solid now. Thanks again.

Hi Scott,

Refer this post as it has been a permanent solution to the mudguard problem for me.

Cheers Stephen

Known Issues & Problems with Riese & Müller Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes

Guys, those that have done it, is it just a bit of rubber, with a hole in it, then drill a hole in the stand and fit the rubber with a self tapping screw? Is it as simple as that? I guess you need to line the rubber up to ensure it slots in the right place when closed to ensure no rattle? Yes...

electricbikereview.com

 

[E14Delite]

Learned a new one today: If you're bringing a Nyon bike in for service, disable the WiFi function beforehand as updating the firmware while the WiFi is active can brick the display unit, for which the only solution is a warranty replacement.

Very useful information to have. Thanks for posting. Just waiting on my Nyon upgrade to be fitted to my Delite so will then have two Nyons to avoid bricking.
Cheers Stephen

 

[Alaskan]

I am copying this over to the Bosch brand forum where members of the Bosch tech team regularly read and post. They should be aware of this and see that it is fixed in the next Nyon firmware update.

 

[S_Cunningham]

Hi all. Sorry if this either of these issues are posted anywhere else, I couldn't seem to find them. I bought a R&M Multicharger in Feb of this year. It's the 2020 model with the Gen 2 motor, but I bought it new from LBS as it was from a customer that returned it after a mistake in their special order. In any case, I'm now experiencing my second issue with the bike, and wanted to see if there was any advice from the group.

For context, my first problem was my 'keyed alike' Abus key that allowed me to use the frame lock and battery lock at the same time. The battery lock had to be changed, as the lock wouldn't work to release the battery due to some issue with the lock itself. This was replaced by LBS but now I have two keys instead of the 'keyed alike' benefit sold with the bike. A frustration, but there was at least a solution.

In any case, I now have an issue with vibration in the bike when I ride. It's belt driven, with the Enviolo CVT. I'm having this issue whenever I ride, at different speeds, at different assist levels, throughout the gear changes whenever I'm peddling. There's a shudder that runs through the bike. I felt like it had something to do with the belt, but that seems to be tight as best I can tell from using the Gates app .

I'm attempting to take it back (again) to LBS to diagnose the issue, but wondering if either of the above experiences are familiar, or typical, with other R&M owners?

 

[SteveBorough]

Hi all. Sorry if this either of these issues are posted anywhere else, I couldn't seem to find them. I bought a R&M Multicharger in Feb of this year. It's the 2020 model with the Gen 2 motor, but I bought it new from LBS as it was from a customer that returned it after a mistake in their special order. In any case, I'm now experiencing my second issue with the bike, and wanted to see if there was any advice from the group.

For context, my first problem was my 'keyed alike' Abus key that allowed me to use the frame lock and battery lock at the same time. The battery lock had to be changed, as the lock wouldn't work to release the battery due to some issue with the lock itself. This was replaced by LBS but now I have two keys instead of the 'keyed alike' benefit sold with the bike. A frustration, but there was at least a solution.

In any case, I now have an issue with vibration in the bike when I ride. It's belt driven, with the Enviolo CVT. I'm having this issue whenever I ride, at different speeds, at different assist levels, throughout the gear changes whenever I'm peddling. There's a shudder that runs through the bike. I felt like it had something to do with the belt, but that seems to be tight as best I can tell from using the Gates app .

I'm attempting to take it back (again) to LBS to diagnose the issue, but wondering if either of the above experiences are familiar, or typical, with other R&M owners?

Check that the rear wheel is aligned properly. My Rohloff with quick access skewer gets misaligned from heavy breaking during rides and I have to re-seat the wheel (loosen skewer and push wheel fully back in place) from time to time.

 

[S_Cunningham]

Check that the rear wheel is aligned properly. My Rohloff with quick access skewer gets misaligned from heavy breaking during rides and I have to re-seat the wheel (loosen skewer and push wheel fully back in place) from time to time.

Never would have thought of that! I'll check.

 

[amayers]

On my previous bike (Not a R&M, but it had Gates & Enviolo & Bosch Active Line Plus) I experienced belt vibration when the belt was too tight. This occurred when the belt was within the recommended tension by gates. I think it was ~40 lbs, but it's been 6+ months since this issue. I lowered the tension to the mid 20 lbs range, and it went away.

 

[dblhelix]

Hi all. Sorry if this either of these issues are posted anywhere else, I couldn't seem to find them. I bought a R&M Multicharger in Feb of this year. It's the 2020 model with the Gen 2 motor, but I bought it new from LBS as it was from a customer that returned it after a mistake in their special order. In any case, I'm now experiencing my second issue with the bike, and wanted to see if there was any advice from the group.

For context, my first problem was my 'keyed alike' Abus key that allowed me to use the frame lock and battery lock at the same time. The battery lock had to be changed, as the lock wouldn't work to release the battery due to some issue with the lock itself. This was replaced by LBS but now I have two keys instead of the 'keyed alike' benefit sold with the bike. A frustration, but there was at least a solution.

In any case, I now have an issue with vibration in the bike when I ride. It's belt driven, with the Enviolo CVT. I'm having this issue whenever I ride, at different speeds, at different assist levels, throughout the gear changes whenever I'm peddling. There's a shudder that runs through the bike. I felt like it had something to do with the belt, but that seems to be tight as best I can tell from using the Gates app .

I'm attempting to take it back (again) to LBS to diagnose the issue, but wondering if either of the above experiences are familiar, or typical, with other R&M owners?

Honestly, I would press for the “keyed alike” benefit unless you agreed to “as-is” terms at time of purchase.

I used to own a Charger with the same hub and would experience that shudder at higher speeds. If anything, I’d check if the belt is too tight rather than tight enough. I don’t think you have a skewer in the rear.

 

[Alaskan]

Honestly, I would press for the “keyed alike” benefit unless you agreed to “as-is” terms at time of purchase.

I used to own a Charger with the same hub and would experience that shudder at higher speeds. If anything, I’d check if the belt is too tight rather than tight enough. I don’t think you have a skewer in the rear.

The dealer you bought the bike from can order a battery lock keyed alike to the Abus and get you back where you belong assuming they kept a record of the lock id in their original sales documentation. It would take while to get it done and delivered however. Their solution while not ideal, got your bike back on the road much sooner then if they had to wait for a keyed alike folding lock or battery lock to get you back to one key.

Too snug on the belt can definitely cause near continual vibration. I found that the Gates tuning phone app is very unreliable. Use of the Krikit tool 91107 is the best way to gauge belt tension.

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It is also important to make sure that the dropouts are very even on both sides so as not to introduce any slight twist into the belt. The dropouts are allowed to slide forward and back by loosening two bolts on each side. The there is a tensioning screw on the inside back of the chain stay that actually adjusts the belt tension. Finally make sure to secure the sliding dropouts with the four bolts (2 on each side).

 

[S_Cunningham]

Honestly, I would press for the “keyed alike” benefit unless you agreed to “as-is” terms at time of purchase.

I used to own a Charger with the same hub and would experience that shudder at higher speeds. If anything, I’d check if the belt is too tight rather than tight enough. I don’t think you have a skewer in the rear.

 

[S_Cunningham]

Thanks all for replies on this and, regarding the key solution @dblhelix I agree with you but as mentioned by @Alaskan I was offered the option to get back on the road that day vs potentially 'months' for backorders to wait for Abus to send back a keyed alike solution, so I took the option that got me back on the road quicker. If that was the only problem that occurred I would count myself lucky, but this belt issue is considerably more time and effort.
From the above, I feel fairly certain that belt tightness is the issue, but unfortunately I don't have the space or tools to properly make this change at present, so back to the bike shop I will need to go. They're currently late at backlog on repairs, so was trying to avoid being off the road for too long if I can help it.

 

[amayers]

When I can't get in to a shop for a while, if I an get the tools for less than the cost of the fix and get it done sooner, I always grab the opportunity. This gets me one step closer to independence from the shop's busy schedule, fixes my problem sooner and adds to my skill set.

Aside from the Krikit tension gauge, the only tools needed will be hand tools, a T40 torx driver to free up the drop out and a smaller driver to reach i and adjust the tension. This can all be done with the bike on the floor with the help of a good flashlight or LED work light.

Same.

In your case I wouldn't be too worried if I had the hand tools, but didn't have the tension gauge. You could always just try loosening it a tad without it, and see how it goes. As long as it's not slipping cogs, it shouldn't hurt.

 

[Alaskan]

Thanks all for replies on this and, regarding the key solution @dblhelix I agree with you but as mentioned by @Alaskan I was offered the option to get back on the road that day vs potentially 'months' for backorders to wait for Abus to send back a keyed alike solution, so I took the option that got me back on the road quicker. If that was the only problem that occurred I would count myself lucky, but this belt issue is considerably more time and effort.
From the above, I feel fairly certain that belt tightness is the issue, but unfortunately I don't have the space or tools to properly make this change at present, so back to the bike shop I will need to go. They're currently late at backlog on repairs, so was trying to avoid being off the road for too long if I can help it.

When I can't get in to a shop for a while, if I can get the tools for less than the cost of the fix and get it done sooner, I always grab the opportunity. This gets me one step closer to independence from the shop's busy schedule, fixes my problem sooner and adds to my skill set.

Aside from the Krikit tension gauge, the only tools needed will be hand tools, a T40 torx driver to free up the drop out and a smaller driver to reach i and adjust the tension. This can all be done with the bike on the floor with the help of a good flashlight or LED work light.

 

[dblhelix]

Thanks all for replies on this and, regarding the key solution @dblhelix I agree with you but as mentioned by @Alaskan I was offered the option to get back on the road that day vs potentially 'months' for backorders to wait for Abus to send back a keyed alike solution, so I took the option that got me back on the road quicker. If that was the only problem that occurred I would count myself lucky, but this belt issue is considerably more time and effort.
From the above, I feel fairly certain that belt tightness is the issue, but unfortunately I don't have the space or tools to properly make this change at present, so back to the bike shop I will need to go. They're currently late at backlog on repairs, so was trying to avoid being off the road for too long if I can help it.

Hmm. I still don’t see why you can’t enjoy your current solution while waiting for the correctly-keyed lock cylinder to arrive.

 

[dblhelix]

When I can't get in to a shop for a while, if I can get the tools for less than the cost of the fix and get it done sooner, I always grab the opportunity. This gets me one step closer to independence from the shop's busy schedule, fixes my problem sooner and adds to my skill set.

Aside from the Krikit tension gauge, the only tools needed will be hand tools, a T40 torx driver to free up the drop out and a smaller driver to reach i and adjust the tension. This can all be done with the bike on the floor with the help of a good flashlight or LED work light.

I just picked up that gauge. No reason not to at that price.

I could not agree more with your comment on “one step closer to independence.” The bike industry as a whole needs to reevaluate the supply chain. I think it’s the wrong time to be touting “car replacement” when parts/service are not available. Many of us in many walks of life suffered severe disruptions to the status quo but adapted accordingly. It would be interesting to know how demand forecasters in the industry approach ‘22.

 

[Ravi Kempaiah]

I just picked up that gauge. No reason not to at that price.

I could not agree more with your comment on “one step closer to independence.” The bike industry as a whole needs to reevaluate the supply chain. I think it’s the wrong time to be touting “car replacement” when parts/service are not available. Many of us in many walks of life suffered severe disruptions to the status quo but adapted accordingly. It would be interesting to know how demand forecasters in the industry approach ‘22.

you need the one that goes from 30 to 150 lbs.
There are multiple units: One that goes from 100 to 300 lbs for automotive drive belts and then the one from 30 to 150 bs which can be used on bicycles.

 

[S_Cunningham]

When I can't get in to a shop for a while, if I can get the tools for less than the cost of the fix and get it done sooner, I always grab the opportunity. This gets me one step closer to independence from the shop's busy schedule, fixes my problem sooner and adds to my skill set.

Aside from the Krikit tension gauge, the only tools needed will be hand tools, a T40 torx driver to free up the drop out and a smaller driver to reach i and adjust the tension. This can all be done with the bike on the floor with the help of a good flashlight or LED work light

 

[S_Cunningham]

appreciate your thinking here. In truth, I think my bike is still under warranty so was wanting to avoid any additional cost and effort, but again the time delay of having to get it into repairs is a consideration.

I appreciate all the group insight though!