I don't feel safe about this....

Check for "Lawyer Lips" on your new fork and make sure that you accommodate for them with your axle length,..

Screenshot_20241011-155819_DuckDuckGo.jpg


Looking at that picture now,..
Make sure that the spring has somewhere to go without binding or getting squashed by the new longer axle.

I think there's space up inside the QR washer/cup/nut thing to accommodate a fully compressed spring?
 
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I took my skewer apart,..

20241011_162915.jpg


If it were me, I'd delete the springs and go with a longer axle.

There's room inside the "skewer nuts" to accommodate an axle that's a bit longer than the dropout spacing.

The only issue with deleting the springs, is that the skewer won't self align for easy installation of the wheel, but you just have to fuss with it to get the wheel on, or remove the skewer and install it through the axle after you install the wheel.

You won't have to worry about the springs getting lost or installed backwards or anything.

The springs don't matter much on the front wheel, but they really help on a rear wheel with washers and and all kinds of stuff in the way keeping the wheel from falling into the dropout.
 
Will this (above) solid axle fit the cone bearing cups of the OEM hub?
I do not think any of us have any idea. One thing I am sure of, if you buy from ebay or amazon, "high quality" means there are no visible holes in the solid part.
If you buy from modernbike.com or universalcycles.com certain brands are from taiwan or austria instead of *****. DTswiss spokes are from USA. If there is a brand and part #, you may be able to download a drawing (pdf file) and compare to your present installation. People on the phone may be able to answer questions.
 
If you're OK with shopping on ebay, I found this axle set that Actually IS solid core,..


Screenshot_20241011-181610_DuckDuckGo.jpg







I'm about 95% sure that this axle will work for you.
Your bike is old before they invented 25 different types of bicycle axles.

This is just a standard cup and cone axle with everything you need to install it.
The cups and cones allow it to be adjusted to fit your wheel hub.
 
Thanks PC
The question I had is,
I didn't know if the 7 caged ball bearings would act the same as the OEM 10 loose ball bearings using this coned axel, being different sizes than OEM spec's for this 2009 yr model bike etc.
I don't know if the cone dimensions acted the same for caged or loose ball bearings?
 
Thanks PC
The question I had is,
I didn't know if the 7 caged ball bearings would act the same as the OEM 10 loose ball bearings using this coned axel, being different sizes than OEM spec's for this 2009 yr model bike etc.
I don't know if the cone dimensions acted the same for caged or loose ball bearings?

The 7 balls in the cage and the 10 loose balls will find the same alignment and contact points on the cups and cones, but your old cups, cones and balls, may have worn into they're own alignments and specs.

If it were me, I'd reuse the ten loose balls so that it's just the new cone that needs to seat itself.
That way you get 10 balls supporting each end of the axle instead of 7 as well.
Cages are more convenient, but more balls is better.

You can coat the cup and/or the cone with grease to hold them in place.

My axle was handy so I took a picture. I could only find one loose bearing though. 😂

20241013_144535.jpg
 
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I just realized that your used cones may thread on to your new axle.
If they do, I'd reuse everything and install it on the new axle.
 
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