Giant SyncDrive Pro 2020 "tuning"

Hi,
has anyone succeed to put VOLspeed V3 (or similar package) to tiny LIV Vall PRO 2021 frame ?
I haven't tried it yet but it looks pretty tight: Giant SyncDrive Pro 2021 Öffnen
Which module is recommended except mentioned ?

I would like to add a screen, ist basic Ridecontrol Plus worth it ? does it show cadence?
Or its better to use small mobile phone ? (RIDEDASH EVO SG is too expensive to me).

Lot of question from new LIV Vall PRO 2021 user :)
 
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Tomaž: I assume you have read this thread carefully. Installing a dongle is a pain. You need a specialist expensive tool to remove the crankset in full. After the motor and cables have been exposed, you'll find out how difficult it is not only to fit the dongle inside but also how to reassemble the bike. Now, is it worthwhile?

There is no doubt that the 25 km/h limit is infuriating but it is related to road riding only. When you ride in the natural habitat of e-MTB, that is, off-road, the 25 km/h is more than typically needed.

FB_IMG_1612169648874.jpg

That was an off-road ride with the 25 km/h restriction. The max speed achieved was downhill.

Now, let us think if your lady really needs the speed restriction removed. First of all, the excellent aggressive Maxxis downhill tyres have high rolling resistance on-road. Secondly, the 36T chainring requires very high cadence to ride very fast. Thirdly, your warranty would be invalidated. Worthwhile?

I took that pain and start regretting doing that. Derestriction didn't give me as much as I expected. And I finally understood I had bought an off-road e-bike, not the third road e-bike of mine... 😊
 
yes, I read tread very carefully; cadence, tires, 36T, warranty...all known expression...:)
I am aware that installation will not be easy but It is my decision from Start.
For that reason we went for Yamaha X-2 hardtail bike and not Bosch gen4 motor.
We will use bike also on road with set of road tires, so 25km/h is to slow, my wife mentioned that after 5 minutes of ride.:rolleyes:
 
Are you certain that you need a VOLSpeed? Is your rear wheel magnet for the speed sensor spoke mounted or brake rotor mounted? It was a bit hard to tell from your photo. I have a 2020 model but still "lucky" enough to have the spoke mounted magnet which means that it works with the Badass Box.
 
TheEqualiser said:
Are you certain that you need a VOLSpeed? Is your rear wheel magnet for the speed sensor spoke mounted or brake rotor mounted? It was a bit hard to tell from your photo. I have a 2020 model but still "lucky" enough to have the spoke mounted magnet which means that it works with the Badass Box.
Click to expand...
its on brake rotor, so no easy magnet mod possible..
Besides, you might want Ridecontrol EVO display but it is not cheap either.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
yes, I'm aware...looking for new Giant app then will see.
 
FlatSix911 said:
Hi Ben,
I have the external speed sensor and magnet on my Yamaha PW-X & SE powered BH bikes and the BadA$$ Box works well.
The speedo reading will be half of your actual speed, but you will have smooth power delivery up to 40+mph or your maximum cadence... whichever comes first! ;)
View attachment 73615
Click to expand...
Yes I found the BadAssBox 4 to be perfect for my 2020 Explore E+. (I use a free GPS app for 'realtime' Speed, location, etc.) If I come upon a Class 1 only access route it takes 10 seconds to slide the BadAssBox4 off. Of course you need to have spoke magnets to begin with.
 
iskjone said:
Yes I found the BadAssBox 4 to be perfect for my 2020 Explore E+. (I use a free GPS app for 'realtime' Speed, location, etc.)
If I come upon a Class 1 only access route it takes 10 seconds to slide the BadAssBox4 off. Of course you need to have spoke magnets to begin with.
Click to expand...
Glad to hear that the BadAssBox worked well for you! ;)
 
Have a look at 'Planet 3' a mechanical device which screws onto the brake rotor and uses the existing magnet sensor in the frame.
Click to expand...
I read about Planet 3, It is a very elegant mechanical solution, the idea is ingenious, but I'm worried about how the tiny mechanism will last in mud / dust. The price is relatively high given that the mechanism is subject to wear and tear. (that could change if we could print the components ourself with 3d printers..)

I understand that the proposed solutions are very popular due to easy installation (use), but I anticipate that they also show incorrect total bike mileage / service data (not sure that electronic solutions doesnt..). I know that you can't have everything, it's a compromise of what someone needs or. wants to have. So I am more interested in the electronic solution.
I'm speaking strong now, until I find out for myself that I can't install the device, ha ha ...... :)
 
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Didn't realize that total distance calculation would be in error but that makes sense. I'm running plus size tires (Big Apple 700c X 60mm) that already throws calculations way off and I never known the factory RideControlOne to be accurate on distance/speed even when it was stock new. I keep any 'significate' ride data in my phone and in fact until the recent updates to RideControl there wasn't even the option that reveled total distance, so no big deal with me. What I do like like is the ability to blast down the road at 40 MPH with full power pedal assist. I'm just a analog guy living in a digital world.
 
Here's a deal on a previously owned Speedbox for Yamaha. Hope this helps someone on EBR. ;)
www.ebay.com

SPEED BOX 2 FOR YAMAHA PW | eBay

<p dir="ltr">SPEED BOX 2 FOR YAMAHA PW. This may be a first generation or European model It was pulled from my 2017 high bike all mountain 6.5 it will not show proper miles per hour speed or odometer but it will give you unlimited pedal assist from the motor. USPS priority mail thanks for...
www.ebay.com
1612210763662.png
 
Hi 2Solar, Yes, Planet 3 messes up the calibrations on the Giant Ride Control app, but I don't use it so its not a problem for me. Anyhow there are other apps that aren't affected so if you are a data man then one of those is an option. In my research I decide that the Planet 3 was by far the easiest solution, with the VOLspeed chip the best of the electronic solutions. But I have had my Planet replaced as you may have read elsewhere in these forums. Not sure what the problem was dust, or heat. Any how one edge of the small planet gear teeth wore away. This could have been down to dust getting in - there's lots of red dust in Western Australia. Poor installation by me, or as Alex suggested due to heat warping the cover plate. He's right of course its hot, hot, hot down here in Western Australia. But then the temperature generated by direct sun light on the plastic cover, will be way less than the heat generated by a hot brake rotor. Any how Alex replaced it free of charge. I now occasional take the cover off and clean out the internals - not that there's ever anything in. BUT this week I had the 'dreaded red light' error on the Ride Control. So I took the wheel off and checked the Planet 3 - which seemed OK. I cleaned things again and put the planets in the other way round. In 50 meters the red light was on again, so I took things apart again and decided to revert back to the original Giant set-up which just required me un-do two of the brake rotor screws - a 5 minute job. In 50 meters the red light was on again together with the speed sensor white light as before. So not a Plant 3 issue but a speed sensor issue. Inspection of the cabling coming out from the back of the bash plate showed some nicks in the speed sensor cable. So I've taken the sensor out of the chain stay and I'm now trying to source a new one. There's plenty of the sensors that work off a spoke-magnet around, but not the one integrated into the chain stay. I might just try a lash-up job with a new 50cent reed switch spliced into the sensor cable. OR get the old spoke sensor cable and do the lash-up with a magnet on the end of the peddle crank, which a friend has done with success on his E Stance.

If anyone else is reading this, have you had issues with the speed sensor red light and how have you overcome it. I've seen elsewhere that checking out the rooting of the cables coming out from the bash plate can be critical, as the suspension movement can pull the sensor cable, chaff it and possibly even wear it through .... hmmmmm.
 
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@Stefan Mikes - great thread! and you're lucky to have your brother to help/do the install - it looked like a nightmare!
It makes the BadAss4 appear sooo much easier, and fortunately my e-bike has the old school spoke magnet 👍

@Kal's post changed the goal posts a bit
Kal said:
I fitted the Speed box 2.0 to my 2020 Giant Trance E+ Pro 3 last night. All up it took about 30 minutes and works great. Just press Walk then up, down, up, down and then no more limit. From factory my bike had the sensor connector looped under the bashplate rather than up behind the Battery connector like some bikes have. I did not remove the motor. So all I did was remove the bashplate, connect the speedbox, poke the speedbox under the battery connector, and then I ended up with 3 of the 4 speedbox connectors tucked under the bash plate as per photos. I was concerned about the cables rubbing against the frame so I put a section of hard plastic between to stop any rubbing. With hind sight if I removed the battery connector I might have got things a bit more tidy.
Click to expand...
A vast difference between @Stefan Mikes' install and @Kal's just removing the bash plate.

After the 1st couple of pages of this thread I was convinced the BadAss4 was the way to go on my Giant Revolt E+ Pro.
As @iskjone mentioned on page 2, @Stefan Mikes put his bike through e-bike heart surgery to fit the dongle... @Kal just had a botox session :cool:

Any guidance on which end of the scale my Revolt would be?

Still leaning towards the BadAss, so a question more likely directed at @FlatSix911...
For the simplicity of the install of the BadAss over the dongles, I'm happy to compromise that speed and distance won't read correctly on the display with a BadAss...
The display on my Giant has the battery level and an estimated (remaining) range.
...will the range estimate also be thrown out of whack with a BadAss connected?...I'm guessing it would be...but maybe not...the algorithms used to calculate the remaining range just may automagically compensate with the BadAss inplace...or not?

cheers,
Mike
 
almikel said:
The display on my Giant has the battery level and an estimated (remaining) range.
...will the range estimate also be thrown out of whack with a BadAss connected?...I'm guessing it would be...but maybe not...the algorithms used to calculate the remaining range just may automagically compensate with the BadAss inplace...or not?

cheers,
Mike
Click to expand...

IME, the calculated range is completely divorced from reality anyway. I would guess it would change and be even more wrong with the badass, since its probably a simplistic percentage per mile calculation and the badass is going to change the miles ridden, but thats just a wild guess.
 
almikel said:
Still leaning towards the BadAss, so a question more likely directed at @FlatSix911...
For the simplicity of the install of the BadAss over the dongles, I'm happy to compromise that speed and distance won't read correctly on the display with a BadAss...
The display on my Giant has the battery level and an estimated (remaining) range.
...will the range estimate also be thrown out of whack with a BadAss connected?...I'm guessing it would be...but maybe not...the algorithms used to calculate the remaining range just may automagically compensate with the BadAss inplace...or not?

cheers,
Mike
Click to expand...
Mike, good news... the BadAssBox does not affect the battery level readout or range estimates on my Yamaha mid-drive bike.
I am very pleased with the BAB speed delimiter and use Strava for more accurate speed and distance calculations. Good luck! ;)
 
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Hmmm...gravel bike. Well, you may be able to pedal just a shade faster unlocked. Don't be expecting any miracles.

BAB FTW. 😜
That said, with 'old school' magnet speed sensor, the free-mod method is the cheapest and easiest. YMMV
 
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