Giant SyncDrive Pro 2020 "tuning"

I also asked because (perhaps it is the matter of the past) Shimano motors used to be protected well against de-restriction. Just curious.
Regarding the derestriction itself, I wouldn't do that if I lived in North America. It is the Euro/AUS 25 km/h limit that is really nasty.
 
I also asked because (perhaps it is the matter of the past) Shimano motors used to be protected well against de-restriction. Just curious.
Regarding the derestriction itself, I wouldn't do that if I lived in North America. It is the Euro/AUS 25 km/h limit that is really nasty.
I have de-restricted two Shimano mid-drive motors... no issues even with recent software updates. ;)
 
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Honestly FlatSix, the 20 mph/32 kph limit would be enough for me. I just want to re-iterate there are just three situation in which the "wall effect" at 25 km/h is unacceptable for me:
  • Negotiating an intersection. There happen to be some signals in my area that let me cross intersections within 10 seconds only. If I follow a car (or two!), I'm hit with the "wall effect" exactly in the middle of the junction (after the signals already turned red). Bad thing.
  • Overtaking slow traditional cyclists, especially on road. I accelerate and suddenly ride in parallel to the other cyclist, unable to ride faster. And there's a car opposite. Very bad thing.
  • Running away from a thunderstorm.
 
The VolSpeed thing (and other electronic wired dongles) pays off with giving accurate speed and distance at the cost of hard installation. @2solar has encouraged me to try setting the wheel circumference again using VolSpeed V2. I will report if that works after any longer ride.
 
The VolSpeed thing (and other electronic wired dongles) pays off with giving accurate speed and distance at the cost of hard installation. @2solar has encouraged me to try setting the wheel circumference again using VolSpeed V2. I will report if that works after any longer ride.
The SpeedBox displays the correct speed up to 20 mph, and then freezes/remains at 20mph above that.
 
What is your current size? I think you don't need any special tools if you just want to replace the chainring. (The lockring-tool is for removing the spider). If you buy a chainring of the same BCD but with more teeth, you just unscrew four bolts with an Allen key. The point is, the chainrings made for MTB are rather not bigger than 36T. Also: Do you have a chain-guide on the e-bike you're talking about?
my front chain ring is 42T and I run out of gears on pavement downhills on my Revolt - good to know that no special tools are needed to swap it.
I'll wait till my first chain replacement and review then, I might go to a 44T or 46T...the chain-guide is in its lowest position with the stock 42T.

cheers
Mike
 
my front chain ring is 42T and I run out of gears on pavement downhills on my Revolt - good to know that no special tools are needed to swap it.
I'll wait till my first chain replacement and review then, I might go to a 44T or 46T...the chain-guide is in its lowest position with the stock 42T.

cheers
Mike
@almikel: Be careful as not to make a mistake. First of all, the chain-guide should have markings indicating possible chainring sizes. Secondly, I'm not sure what Bolt Circle Diameter (BCD) is appropriate for your chainring. Thirdly, a larger chainring might simply not fit because it could be hitting the chainstay. The stock photo of your Revolt indicates the latter might be the case!

Be careful as to avoid future frustration.

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I have had my 2020 Explore E+1 (syncdrive sport) here in Australia for just over 2mths now and love it, almost...... the 25km/h limit is a killer.
So i tried the "move the sensor, add magnet to the crank" trick... I love the POWER it gives, so, i want to do it correctly now.
Have read thru this post a few times but am still confused (maybe old age..),
I would like everything to appear normal on the bike, speed correctly displayed etc.
The tear down and wiring mess has me worried with my Small frame for room.
That leaves the "BikeSpeed RSc" or the "VOLspeed V2/3" as my choices i think as the smallest internal device.
I like the fact that the "BikeSpeed RSc" you can set your own activation combination, but have read that "Auto" wont work properly....
Are the units detectable if the bike had to go in for warranty/repairs, or do you remove it beforehand?
What about software/firmware updates thru bike shop/phone app, will it render the unit useless?

Which way would you go?

Have any other Australians fitted a delimiter and what did you choose, and why that brand over any other?
 
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I would like everything to appear normal on the bike, speed correctly displayed etc.
if that is a key requirement for you, then the only options are the better dongles (eg Volspeed), which are basically a PITA to install (pull stuff off, drop the motor, fit dongle, put everything back together) - from threads here it appears 2-3 hours work.
The tear down and wiring mess has me worried with my Small frame for room.
agreed - the install for a dongle is difficult - think many, many times about whether your requirement below really is mandatory
I would like everything to appear normal on the bike, speed correctly displayed etc.
is it a requirement you'd "like" or is it a requirement you "need"?...keep in mind Strava on your smart phone and/or a cheap cycle computer can provide accurate speed/distance data if you chose a de-restricting option that mucked with speed etc on the display...but was vastly easier to install/remove (eg seconds rather than hours)

Are the units detectable if the bike had to go in for warranty/repairs, or do you remove it beforehand?
I couldn't advise whether dongles are detectable or not when the bike goes in for service and the LBS plugs in whatever diagnostic tool they have...
I do know that fitting dongles to Giants takes specialist tools to remove bits and several hours to fit and put back together again...not something you would want to remove prior to taking your bike into the LBS for repairs, but definitely recommended to remove before any warranty work.

the 25km/h limit is a killer.
agreed - I just put up with it

Have any other Australians fitted a delimiter and what did you choose, and why that brand over any other?
I have friends that have fitted the Bad Ass Box (BAB) - a small device that fits over the stock speed sensor.
Very simple install - especially if your Giant has the speed sensor on the rear wheel spoke rather than in the rear brake disk.
If spoke sensor, then literally < 5 minute install and sub 30sec removal.

My understanding is that the display reads 1/2 actual with the BAB fitted, and my mates have commented that on long downhill pavement they still occasionally hit the limit (ie display exceeds 25km/h and the assist cuts out), but never on the flats/uphill.

What about software/firmware updates thru bike shop/phone app, will it render the unit useless?
always a risk - one of my mates showed me the instructions that came with his BAB, and it recommended not updating the bike firmware for the reason you mention...but with the BAB specifically, which is only providing a modified speed input, it's hard to imagine any software/firmware updates that could impact the BAB operation and/or render it useless.

Keep in mind that de-restricting an e-bike in Australia allows it to be used on private land only.

cheers
Mike
 
@almikel: Be careful as not to make a mistake. First of all, the chain-guide should have markings indicating possible chainring sizes. Secondly, I'm not sure what Bolt Circle Diameter (BCD) is appropriate for your chainring. Thirdly, a larger chainring might simply not fit because it could be hitting the chainstay. The stock photo of your Revolt indicates the latter might be the case!

Be careful as to avoid future frustration.

View attachment 79506
Hi Stefan,

as always, great info/advice - cheers !
There's no markings on the chain guard, but plenty of travel...and in reality I don't need a chain guard on the 1X for my usage (99% road)...my old school 3X dualie doesn't even have a clutch derailleur, and only suffers chain suck occasionally on serious off road terrain...

...I always wanted a chain catcher for the inside of my 2X road acoustic...I swear it has a special sensor on the front derailleur...it shifts flawlessly and never dumps the chain on the inside ever...until I'm tired and cranky and over it - then when I drop to the smaller chain ring before a big hill, the "special" sensor knows I'm tired/cranky/over it, and dumps the chain on the inside :(

Modern 1X setups with the taller and narrow/wide chainring teeth plus a clutch derailleur on a gravel bike like mine should make chain suck risk negligible...I could just remove the chain guard..but if it fits a bigger chain ring within its range I'll just leave it.

I was always going to seek a replacement chain ring with the correct BCD (104)...but I hadn't considered the chainstay clearance!
On looking closer it appears OK - this is the clearance with the stock 42T chainring
IMG_6899.jpg

Great pickup though - a shiny new chainring fouling on the chainstay would be tears before bedtime :(

Thanks as always - forewarned is forearmed

cheers
Mike
 
Glad I found this syncdrive motor dropping support group.....I was living in my dream world after watching this video until I took the front lower cover off of my 2020 Explore E+ 4 GTS sync drive sport. 😢 Volspeed on my Bosch was a 30 min job. It is certainly worth it to be able to ride my bike as if it was my mechanical bike as an endurance athlete for 30 years. 🙄
Glad I am just a damn ole tech and bike repair nerd now to engine surgery. Guess I might as well learn my way around in there. 🤓
Here is another option but you still have to drop the motor but, it gives high top end speed limit and easy setting via bluetooth app. Have not had any direct experience with this one like I have with Volspeed and Badass.
You have to have a display (which I don't). I would talk to them first about what display and model engine you have to make sure. I just like the sound of setting it via bluetooth (really easy to do with my StUnlocker on my Shim E8000 engine). Volspeed is great if you have a display or using your phone for one and it works well on my Bosch with Purion display. Just the button coding sequence without having any feedback for me on my Giant Explore E+ 4 2020 is kinda a pain and I don't want to install a display on this bike right now and there displays aren't that great for my particular setup on this bike with really large gravel drop bars and my Garmin display.
 
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Yes, you have the original setup with the spoke magnet and chainstay sensor... so it is a simple setup with the BadA$$ box in under 30 seconds. 😉

View attachment 60155
I had one on my Bosch and it worked great. I just needed a bit more top end on our training group rides so I had to go with Volspeed on that motor. But, big difference my particular Bosch motor had the wires easily accessed via the cover without dropping the motor and good enough room to install.
 
@Manu: @BenC has the 50T larger chainring and 11-32T cassette, 700x32c wheels. He can reach 28 mph or 45 km/h at cadence of 76. Ben's motor is SyncDrive Pro (Yamaha PW-X2).

So Ben needs to modify nothing, only to de-restrict his motor... (His e-bike and mine have identical motors and displays).
What a great technical thread you guys have here it has helped me allot !
Ordered a 48 chainring for it mine and with the 80nm motor I am seeing about 32 max on the flats. I only use that for pack dynamics and to get the HELL away from cars across busy stretches quickly. Anyway, it keeps me in my position at the back of the pack drafting where then the speeds can be for me up to about 35 sometimes on the flats.
I know because my volspeed Bosch 50nm motor I do every now and again on our REALLY fast training rides. The group dynamics on hills(rollers). When I was racing I would use my team issue Trek hardtail race rig on our fast group rides with a 44 max in front.....it wasn't easy. Pump up the tires like crazy and stay with them (I was very young and fit lol verses now lol) we would average about 25mph on our 50-100 mile rides and even hilly ones sometimes...no, i was not up front on those lol. Wow, a 50t that is badass ! Edit I just put on the 48 and I once knew this I guess my memory just faded. That xtr 44 in the front was really spinning almost like on a fixed gear try to stay in position on the flast.
This 48t on the ebike just tested rocks and stone cold cranks it out on the flats and small rollers. Glad the rear D's now have such a wide range so I should be able to still do my mountain high cog training.
 
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Hi all, I have just bought a Giant FastRoad E+ E Pro Hybrid. I wanted to pick your brains about the motor and de-restricting it.

View attachment 71069

It is a 2020 model with the SyncDrive Pro motor. As far as I can see it uses the 'old' sensor type (sensor bolted onto the inside of the left-hand chain-stay with a magnet on the spokes). As far as I can see there is no sensor in the rear disc brake and only one cable going back to the rear wheel sensor. The display is the LCD RideControl EVO.

A link to the bike here: https://www.paulscycles.co.uk/5539/...pro-e-urban-hybrid-bike-2020-matte-black.aspx

View attachment 71070

Standard sensor position

View attachment 71071

Modified position

I used the magnet trick on another bike of mine, a Moustache MTB, with a Bosch Performance Line motor and it worked well.

So I then did this with the new Giant. It was working fine for 2 days but yesterday the display showed a Speed Sensor warning, so I shut down the power and rode home using the old-fashioned leg method.

Anyway, my questions are:

- Can this bike be derestricted with the magnet method?

- If not, which one of the tuning boxes do you recommend for this bike?

- Does the SyncDrive Pro motor also have another sensor in the motor itself? I wondered whether it threw the error because I was riding outside of its programmed parameters, ie my legs were going ten to the dozen, yet the speedo was reading the crank speed of, say 10mph and the computer said: Nope, you should be going faster than that, something fishy's going on here.

- Can I reset the bike's display / memory with an app?

Many thanks for your help.

Ben
2 weeks nother edit: Still perfect. 4/25/2021 (So this is a done deal now and with this particular motor SychDriveSport 2019 and first quarter 2021 firmware works fine and silly to drop the motor and do a volspeed for me. I am retired engineer and have no problem with doing that...for fun even.)
old Edit: Well still working but getting the magnet perfect the way I have it set up has been a problem. Once I do it is error free and hitting 30mph in my sprints like on my mechanical bike. 2 different 2+ hour rides and no codes.* (several times trying to get it right and it would throw codes. have learned if it throws code, look and see if magnet/sensor orientation has moved.) Just so you know the people that are complaining about surging when they do this I imagine many of them did not measure the distance the magnet was from the sensor when it was on the spoke. You have to do that and get the same distance from the sensor with the magnet on the crank. Too far away you will get errors and simply turn system off and adjust, turn it back on and you are good to go. Too close you get the surging and slowing down over and over and once again; turn system off, get the magnet same distance from the sensor as it was when on the spoke.
Yep, before volspeed motor surgery (why do it if the chainstay method works ???. I must say it is fun stuff though if you love electronics and dropping the motor for us electro geeks is really pretty easy. ) for clean install, (tried this about 4am) last night lol. ZOOM... I will hit 30 easy (80nm motor), on my next few rides. My big deal is the battery. So for this model https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/explore-eplus-4-gts giant speced the sport motor (yea saw that and instantly bought one $2.5k and 70nm 👏🏽) but with a 400 watt battery. 🙄 Just perfunctoriusly dumb. Had a giant dealer tell me they just screwed up the spec and did not notice their mistake until it went into production 2021 sees it with 60nm motor and 500watt battery.
Even before the mod or fast riding on mix mode I got 1.5 hours that ate 2 ticks off the battery yesterday....yikes. I can't find a side pull (not integrated) 500 or 650 or even a spare 400 EnergyPak anywhere in USA or UK to deliver here.
Here is another thread where other folks seem to be having good luck with simple mod on "some" of the giant/yama motors.
** Good news is the regional sales rep for Giant is getting me a spare battery (500watt side release) 600 bucks shipped. Try that with agents of Bosch motors. Minimum 500watt $765 + shipping here in the USA. I know cause I had to buy a spare.
> Btw, this may have been special deal just to me. I hear going rate is 800+shipping in USA. I discovered and pretty large error in the description of this bike that no one had noticed from 2020-2021 plus had a couple of complaints against my dealer who screwed up something. Not complaining I will take 200 dollars off no problem. :)
 
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Interesting developments.

I let my brother ride the Trance E+ for a long term. The EVO display stopped working properly after having been washed under pressure :( So I handed out my original Ride Control One remote to Jacek; he installed it with ease. Surprise! Now Giant Ride Control App could see two e-bikes (each entry for different remote or display). My brother had to reconfigure VolSpeed 3, using a smartphone as the display. All went well, except Jacek is really missing the display but doesn't own a smartphone handlebar-mount. So he de-restricted the SyncDrive Pro at 50 km/h and zoomed to his work. Then, he had to return on leg-power, as the 500 Wh battery went flat too fast :)
 
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