McCorby
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
I’ve had the access cover off. It is definitely easy! Just 3 screws and 3 simple connections. No need to unbolt and drop the motor.I wanted to say what looks easy on YT doesn't need to be easy in practice![]()
I’ve had the access cover off. It is definitely easy! Just 3 screws and 3 simple connections. No need to unbolt and drop the motor.I wanted to say what looks easy on YT doesn't need to be easy in practice![]()
I have de-restricted two Shimano mid-drive motors... no issues even with recent software updates.I also asked because (perhaps it is the matter of the past) Shimano motors used to be protected well against de-restriction. Just curious.
Regarding the derestriction itself, I wouldn't do that if I lived in North America. It is the Euro/AUS 25 km/h limit that is really nasty.
Yes, I agree. Like I said, there is no reason for me to do so with the riding I currently do.Regarding the derestriction itself, I wouldn't do that if I lived in North America. It is the Euro/AUS 25 km/h limit that is really nasty.
Do your de-restrictors halve your displayed speed Or does the displayed speed stop increasing after 20mph?I have de-restricted two Shimano mid-drive motors... no issues even with recent software updates.![]()
Actually, the displayed speed is half of the actual value (BadAss Box)... I use Strava for the corrected metrics.Do your de-restrictors halve your displayed speed Or does the displayed speed stop increasing after 20mph?
The SpeedBox displays the correct speed up to 20 mph, and then freezes/remains at 20mph above that.The VolSpeed thing (and other electronic wired dongles) pays off with giving accurate speed and distance at the cost of hard installation. @2solar has encouraged me to try setting the wheel circumference again using VolSpeed V2. I will report if that works after any longer ride.
my front chain ring is 42T and I run out of gears on pavement downhills on my Revolt - good to know that no special tools are needed to swap it.What is your current size? I think you don't need any special tools if you just want to replace the chainring. (The lockring-tool is for removing the spider). If you buy a chainring of the same BCD but with more teeth, you just unscrew four bolts with an Allen key. The point is, the chainrings made for MTB are rather not bigger than 36T. Also: Do you have a chain-guide on the e-bike you're talking about?
@almikel: Be careful as not to make a mistake. First of all, the chain-guide should have markings indicating possible chainring sizes. Secondly, I'm not sure what Bolt Circle Diameter (BCD) is appropriate for your chainring. Thirdly, a larger chainring might simply not fit because it could be hitting the chainstay. The stock photo of your Revolt indicates the latter might be the case!my front chain ring is 42T and I run out of gears on pavement downhills on my Revolt - good to know that no special tools are needed to swap it.
I'll wait till my first chain replacement and review then, I might go to a 44T or 46T...the chain-guide is in its lowest position with the stock 42T.
cheers
Mike
They are probably detectable. I'm so happy my Giant e-bike doesn't break.Are the units detectable if the bike had to go in for warranty/repairs, or do you remove it beforehand?
No issues with that.What about software/firmware updates thru bike shop/phone app, will it render the unit useless?
if that is a key requirement for you, then the only options are the better dongles (eg Volspeed), which are basically a PITA to install (pull stuff off, drop the motor, fit dongle, put everything back together) - from threads here it appears 2-3 hours work.I would like everything to appear normal on the bike, speed correctly displayed etc.
agreed - the install for a dongle is difficult - think many, many times about whether your requirement below really is mandatoryThe tear down and wiring mess has me worried with my Small frame for room.
is it a requirement you'd "like" or is it a requirement you "need"?...keep in mind Strava on your smart phone and/or a cheap cycle computer can provide accurate speed/distance data if you chose a de-restricting option that mucked with speed etc on the display...but was vastly easier to install/remove (eg seconds rather than hours)I would like everything to appear normal on the bike, speed correctly displayed etc.
I couldn't advise whether dongles are detectable or not when the bike goes in for service and the LBS plugs in whatever diagnostic tool they have...Are the units detectable if the bike had to go in for warranty/repairs, or do you remove it beforehand?
agreed - I just put up with itthe 25km/h limit is a killer.
I have friends that have fitted the Bad Ass Box (BAB) - a small device that fits over the stock speed sensor.Have any other Australians fitted a delimiter and what did you choose, and why that brand over any other?
always a risk - one of my mates showed me the instructions that came with his BAB, and it recommended not updating the bike firmware for the reason you mention...but with the BAB specifically, which is only providing a modified speed input, it's hard to imagine any software/firmware updates that could impact the BAB operation and/or render it useless.What about software/firmware updates thru bike shop/phone app, will it render the unit useless?
Hi Stefan,@almikel: Be careful as not to make a mistake. First of all, the chain-guide should have markings indicating possible chainring sizes. Secondly, I'm not sure what Bolt Circle Diameter (BCD) is appropriate for your chainring. Thirdly, a larger chainring might simply not fit because it could be hitting the chainstay. The stock photo of your Revolt indicates the latter might be the case!
Be careful as to avoid future frustration.
View attachment 79506
I had one on my Bosch and it worked great. I just needed a bit more top end on our training group rides so I had to go with Volspeed on that motor. But, big difference my particular Bosch motor had the wires easily accessed via the cover without dropping the motor and good enough room to install.Yes, you have the original setup with the spoke magnet and chainstay sensor... so it is a simple setup with the BadA$$ box in under 30 seconds.
View attachment 60155
What a great technical thread you guys have here it has helped me allot !
2 weeks nother edit: Still perfect. 4/25/2021 (So this is a done deal now and with this particular motor SychDriveSport 2019 and first quarter 2021 firmware works fine and silly to drop the motor and do a volspeed for me. I am retired engineer and have no problem with doing that...for fun even.)Hi all, I have just bought a Giant FastRoad E+ E Pro Hybrid. I wanted to pick your brains about the motor and de-restricting it.
View attachment 71069
It is a 2020 model with the SyncDrive Pro motor. As far as I can see it uses the 'old' sensor type (sensor bolted onto the inside of the left-hand chain-stay with a magnet on the spokes). As far as I can see there is no sensor in the rear disc brake and only one cable going back to the rear wheel sensor. The display is the LCD RideControl EVO.
A link to the bike here: https://www.paulscycles.co.uk/5539/...pro-e-urban-hybrid-bike-2020-matte-black.aspx
View attachment 71070
Standard sensor position
View attachment 71071
Modified position
I used the magnet trick on another bike of mine, a Moustache MTB, with a Bosch Performance Line motor and it worked well.
So I then did this with the new Giant. It was working fine for 2 days but yesterday the display showed a Speed Sensor warning, so I shut down the power and rode home using the old-fashioned leg method.
Anyway, my questions are:
- Can this bike be derestricted with the magnet method?
- If not, which one of the tuning boxes do you recommend for this bike?
- Does the SyncDrive Pro motor also have another sensor in the motor itself? I wondered whether it threw the error because I was riding outside of its programmed parameters, ie my legs were going ten to the dozen, yet the speedo was reading the crank speed of, say 10mph and the computer said: Nope, you should be going faster than that, something fishy's going on here.
- Can I reset the bike's display / memory with an app?
Many thanks for your help.
Ben