Getting on the Hydra band wagon

Well, I believe you've talked me into another change! I'm glad I started this thread, really appreciate the guidance.
 
What size dropouts are you running with the front fork? 100, 110, 135, 150?
Also if your going with two sets of tires ( 29" & 26") won't you need wider rear triangle for the 26 x 4.8" set-up? The 27.5 and 29 rear end is probably 142 or 148mm hub spacing. The 26" I'm not sure, might be 170mm. Wider tires, wider hub makes sense.
Whichever fork you get make sure it's for 29" wheel set then you can always use smaller wheels without any obstruction from the fork brace. I run a Wren fork with no fork brace so it's a moot point. If you buy a fork for 26" or 27.5" wheels and want to use a 29" front tire your going to have a problem. Problems bad!
Why would you want a restricted throttle with a 2300w controller? Whats the point of the extra wattage. Or just get the 1000w or 1500w version with the derestricted throttle option it's cheaper.
One last point I wanted to make is saying that the 27.5's are not as maneuverable as the 29's thats a little misleading. Sure I know a tighter radius gives a quicker turning response but a bigger tire rolls over obstacles a bit easier allowing you to go faster and carry your momentum farther. Just a trade off IMO. Some of the downhill guys are running 29's. Bigger tires cover more ground with the same amount of revolutions thats a math thing.
One last last point is tires for a cushier ride. I use to run 26" x 4" fat tires on my older bikes and thought that was the only way to go until I tried out some 27.5" x 3" tires and now I would never go back. Funny how stuff makes you change sometimes. Different set-ups for different needs gotta love it. Good luck on your new ride hopefully it won't be 2022 when it arrives. You guys have the patience of a saint!
 
What size dropouts are you running with the front fork? 100, 110, 135, 150?
I don't know.
Also if your going with two sets of tires ( 29" & 26") won't you need wider rear triangle for the 26 x 4.8" set-up?
I decided to go with the 26x4 fats, to maximize cushion (my back is a mess). Your comment about 27.5 x 3 makes me curious, given that's close to how my non-ebike is setup.
Why would you want a restricted throttle with a 2300w controller? Whats the point of the extra wattage. Or just get the 1000w or 1500w version with the derestricted throttle option it's cheaper.
The AMA @pushkar provided frankly scared me away from unrestricted. I thought with 2300w I could still get more juice than 1/1.5, I just don't run the risk of breaking things with throttle. I want the max juice available given I have so many steep hills to climb around here. I'm an ebike newb, so I will read up further on this point.
One last last point is tires for a cushier ride. I use to run 26" x 4" fat tires on my older bikes and thought that was the only way to go until I tried out some 27.5" x 3" tires and now I would never go back.
I'm super curious about this, I'll read up more, my current bike (not electric) is 27.5 x 3.8 and I enjoy how those take on any terrain. I'm wondering if the 26 x 4 would disappoint.
Good luck on your new ride hopefully it won't be 2022 when it arrives. You guys have the patience of a saint!
Thank you! Haha, I guess the lead times allow me some flexibility in having these type discussions after I thought I had the spec dialed in. @pushkar has been very nice in allowing me to tweak a few things in the spec as purchased before the build begins.
 
The only real functional difference between an MT5e and MT7e is the brake pads (which are a nice step up in torque). I know Magura wants ransom for them, but I have always bought MT5e's, then ran the Type 9 pads (MT5 2-pc) down and replaced with Type 8.P (MT7 pads). The calipers are the same minus the shiny finish and the plastic ring inserts. The MDR-P rotors don't impress me much either. I used an MDR-C on a recent build and it had a little more mass, but the same thickness as the old school Storm HC, but my favorite remains the thicker Tektro TR-17 which you can inexpensively add later. A basic Magura rotor is going to be a good fit without an upgrade.

I would say though, that the Ergon Prime Core is worth the extra money. I have three of them on different bikes. Also have an Ergon SMC on another bike and its an excellent saddle, but the Prime will stay comfortable for longer rides.
 
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I'm super curious about this, I'll read up more, my current bike (not electric) is 27.5 x 3.8 and I enjoy how those take on any terrain. I'm wondering if the 26 x 4 would disappoint.
They might. In my opinion, 27.5X3.8/4.0 tires are better than 26X4 in pretty much every way--faster rolling, better rollover, better handling (more like a plus bike, less like a "fat bike") making the bike a lot more fun to ride in the summer...and they're still better in the snow. Personally I'd only go for 26X4" tires on a bike only if it wouldn't fit 27.5's.
 
27.5" x 3.8/4.0 tires?? The largest tires for 27.5" wheels are 3" unless you want the winter steel studs type. Not trying to nitpick just want to clarify.
 
27.5" x 3.8/4.0 tires?? The largest tires for 27.5" wheels are 3" unless you want the winter steel studs type. Not trying to nitpick just want to clarify.
I'm currently on a Farley EX, Bontrager Hodag, Tubeless Ready, Inner Strength sidewalls, aramid bead, 27.5x3.80˝
 
I'm editing my initial post to show how the build is updated. At this point, I'm thinking I should go with 27.5 and 29 wheelsets. I don't need to make it through fresh snow or deep mud, rollover-ease and cushy ride are my primary goals.
 
The only real functional difference between an MT5e and MT7e is the brake pads (which are a nice step up in torque). I know Magura wants ransom for them, but I have always bought MT5e's, then ran the Type 9 pads (MT5 2-pc) down and replaced with Type 8.P (MT7 pads). The calipers are the same minus the shiny finish and the plastic ring inserts. The MDR-P rotors don't impress me much either. I used an MDR-C on a recent build and it had a little more mass, but the same thickness as the old school Storm HC, but my favorite remains the thicker Tektro TR-17 which you can inexpensively add later. A basic Magura rotor is going to be a good fit without an upgrade.

I would say though, that the Ergon Prime Core is worth the extra money. I have three of them on different bikes. Also have an Ergon SMC on another bike and its an excellent saddle, but the Prime will stay comfortable for longer rides.
Dag nabit Robertson you make my teeth hurt! How can any one man know all this s*it? What are your consultant fees? Like by the minute. Can I just call you up and get answers cause I can barely follow half this stuff. Really. I'm not kidding. 🙏
 
Learn something new everyday thats what I get riding Maxxis.
Yeah, many fat tires perform quite well in summer conditions--often offering significantly more traction than normal sized MTB tires on most terrain--and I've found the 27.5X3.8/4.0's have fewer downsides. Maxxis actually makes the FBF/FBR in that size which are quite popular.
I'm editing my initial post to show how the build is updated. At this point, I'm thinking I should go with 27.5 and 29 wheelsets. I don't need to make it through fresh snow or deep mud, rollover-ease and cushy ride are my primary goals.
The cushy ride is probably the biggest reason I ride my fatbike more often than my 29er trail bike, even in the summer. One can spend a fortune on the latest/greatest shock and fork, and still never get the small bump compliance/trail chatter smoothness of what being able to run tires at 1/2 the pressure offers. And there's no doubt the better rollover and traction makes difficult climbs much easier.

Looking at your build, if you do want to run 3.8's I would guess you need the 197 rear triangle and probably the Mastodon on the front. I don't know what the limits of tire size for the Fox 38 is but it's possible it may fit 3.0's but not 3.8's. Something to check before you order for sure. In general, you can put skinny tires on a fat bike but not fat tires on a skinny bike. :)
 
Looking at your build, if you do want to run 3.8's I would guess you need the 197 rear triangle and probably the Mastodon on the front.
I'll just run with what comes standard - I'll give the 27.5 x 3's a whirl. Hopefully the .8 doesn't change the cushy-ness too much. I'm hoping the Tannus makes up in cush.

When I was planning to go fat (26x4), definitely had the Mastadon picked out, I have that on my Farley and have zero complaints.
 
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Sticking to the same thread to not cause unnecessary noise in the forum.
I updated the initial post with the finalized build/spec.

I'm thrilled to report, I received my tracking number yesterday!!
I received preview pictures of the built bike, and I'm over the moon, ready to ride.
And where I am, this time of year, there is zero chance of rain! (snow maybe, but that'd be fine by me, I will ride in it.)
Sincerely yours, Excited Man...
 
I’m right here in Colorado with my Hydra for the past few months and have been able to do quite a bit of trail riding until the Magura rear brake failed completely and has left me on the sideline for over a month now 🤬.

I have a large frame with 27.5s though I now have a 29” in the front which I think will be the perfect combination for the rocky trails out here. Personally, I think wheel size and maneuverability is overrated for most riders and would be happy with either size - and you say you are thinking 26s as well - all going to be great out here. Having said that, a 29” up front will help some with the steps and obstacles here. The mullet combo works for dual sport motorcycles so makes sense for a emtb as well.

I put Cush cores in almost immediately. The improved feel, better pressure options and flat protection were a must for me. Think these or Tannus are super valuable out here.

Also like your Kindernay choice. Biggest issue by far has been the traditional Shimano drivetrain as I am sure you have seen in the many threads and the associated skipping issue in the small cogs. Isn’t an issue on the trails so much but it’s a real frustration anytime you want to take your speed up (and why else have a Hydra?). I have spent a lot of time and $$$ getting the drivetrain right and woukd have tended that problem for the concern of a leaking Kindernay in retrospect.

Lots of fun when I’ve been able to ride it out here in the Front Range.
 
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