I found something similar too.
Generic MD 1000 and HD 750 ebike model discussion
- Thread starter RMK!
- Start date
tykoehn1
Active Member
What is the max pressure the forks can take?
RMK!
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info fellas and I have already reviewed those videos and files referenced. The image below is the relevant info from the SA documentation ( the difference being that procedure shows a chain vs a belt drive). Since I have the red and yellow marks it should be a vertical dropout. The marks are nowhere near each other in 2nd gear. 5th gear is the closest they get as illustrated in my photo post on this. The bike is shifting correctly now so I don't feel adjustment is necessary. I was just trying to prepare for the inevitable future adjustment requirements. For now, I made a green mark next to the yellow line in 5th gear. The SA IGH is a pretty simple mechanical device and logically, if the cable stretches, it should show up with the position of these two marks with the bike in 5th gear. Again, the SA IGH is working perfectly so there is no rush on this but clarification on a working procedure is needed as this is a necessary maintenance function. This will be a much easier process when there are more than 2 owners posting here. 
I'm going to call Sturmey Archer customer support tomorrow and try and get confirmation of my improvised procedure. This is one of the disadvantages of not buying from a dealer or a company like Biktrix. Of course, Biktrix doesn't offer the belt drive so the point in this particular situation is moot. For me it's worth having to do some digging to find answers to what should be simple questions. YMMV.
Another hope is that Bikonit or Bolton will produce a professional English language User Manual for the MD 1000. There are both Bolton and Bikonit Threads on EBR for this exact same bike so anything we can get from those sources will be helpful. They should also significantly increase the owner community size so that will be a good thing for us "trail blazers".
I'm going to call Sturmey Archer customer support tomorrow and try and get confirmation of my improvised procedure. This is one of the disadvantages of not buying from a dealer or a company like Biktrix. Of course, Biktrix doesn't offer the belt drive so the point in this particular situation is moot. For me it's worth having to do some digging to find answers to what should be simple questions. YMMV.
Another hope is that Bikonit or Bolton will produce a professional English language User Manual for the MD 1000. There are both Bolton and Bikonit Threads on EBR for this exact same bike so anything we can get from those sources will be helpful. They should also significantly increase the owner community size so that will be a good thing for us "trail blazers".
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RMK!
Well-Known Member
The Spec sheet for the RST Renegade shock doesn't say. There is a pressure recommendation listing for RST shocks but the Renegade isn't listed, That guide has either 140 or 150 listed as max air pressure so my 150 is probably at or slightly above the max pressure recommendation. I'm going to drop it down to 140 just to be safe.
tykoehn1
Active Member
I found this online. Could be a good starting point
Attachments
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RMK!
Well-Known Member
Good find, looks like I need to drop it to 94 PSI ...
T
Terry777
Guest
Any bikes due to be delivered this week?
i those marks are for if it’s set as 1 thing or the other. You can use the IGH for a few different set ups I can’t remember exactly what they are. Something else I looked through also but can’t remember exactly what it said. It’s online though so you may find it too as that’s how I found it. Red for one yellow for the other lining up with the yellow on the other side. Mine has a hand scratched mark that’s in between to two that lined up when it’s in 2nd gear. Cable stretching should be able to be sorted from the wee nut the cable goes through as it enters the trigger shifter. I gave mine a quarter turn one way or the other after a few miles and it sorted for the cable settling. You may or may not have to do it. It’s on this thread somewhere. I have my shock at 90 PSI and the rebound almost in the middle with a couple extra click towards +. I’ll prob just change that on the fly if I’m on the road or off road. I’ve found the PSI of the tyres really affects the ride but I’ll play more when we get better weather here. It’s like an ice rink outside just now and dark at 4 pm ish. Have a closer look on the moving side of you IGH, you may have a wee scratch mark too or it may just be whoever built my bikes way of setting it up. I’m sure for adjusting you start in 2nd gear then click through to 5th and adjust if needed and then repeat and so on till it trues up. Real happy your getting some pleasure from your bike now instead of sore heads. Get them miles in brother!
tykoehn1
Active Member
My bikes were picked up from the port on the 30th. I was told to give them a few days after new years to unload the shipping containers at world depot. FedEx will pick it up and deliver it about 30 mins away so maybe by the end of the week!Any bikes due to be delivered this week?
i those marks are for if it’s set as 1 thing or the other. You can use the IGH for a few different set ups I can’t remember exactly what they are. Something else I looked through also but can’t remember exactly what it said. It’s online though so you may find it too as that’s how I found it. Red for one yellow for the other lining up with the yellow on the other side. Mine has a hand scratched mark that’s in between to two that lined up when it’s in 2nd gear. Cable stretching should be able to be sorted from the wee nut the cable goes through as it enters the trigger shifter. I gave mine a quarter turn one way or the other after a few miles and it sorted for the cable settling. You may or may not have to do it. It’s on this thread somewhere. I have my shock at 90 PSI and the rebound almost in the middle with a couple extra click towards +. I’ll prob just change that on the fly if I’m on the road or off road. I’ve found the PSI of the tyres really affects the ride but I’ll play more when we get better weather here. It’s like an ice rink outside just now and dark at 4 pm ish. Have a closer look on the moving side of you IGH, you may have a wee scratch mark too or it may just be whoever built my bikes way of setting it up. I’m sure for adjusting you start in 2nd gear then click through to 5th and adjust if needed and then repeat and so on till it trues up. Real happy your getting some pleasure from your bike now instead of sore heads. Get them miles in brother!
T
Terry777
Guest
That’s awesome news brother! I hope you get sooner than later! I’m delighted bikes are being delivered. RMK can back me up with how much fun your all about to have!
RMK!
Well-Known Member
Yes indeed. I'm not sure I would have ordered this bike or put up with all the delays, if it were not for the demo ride at Bolton 7 months ago.That’s awesome news brother! I hope you get sooner than later! I’m delighted bikes are being delivered. RMK can back me up with how much fun your all about to have!
I just finished 38 miles in mild weather with about 12 miles on a dirt single track trail in ECO mode and no throttle. It is more fun to ride the Batbike on dirt trails for sure. Wish I had some fire roads near me. I had 20% battery left at the end. I think my next purchase will be a 3rd battery plus an extra charger. That seems to be the only way I'll get to 60 miles in a day.
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38 miles is not the 60-80 miles promised by the manufacture. What PAS you used ?
T
Terry777
Guest
One thing I’d like to get on the go now more of us have the MD1000 is how accurate the % meter is. I have no idea myself as not had enough time on the bike to test it but I’ve read a few different times it’s miles out, even as far as 20% is really nearly empty.
I know 54.4v is 100% battery and 41v is where it cuts off so 0% this is where we’d get the accuracy between. I know this because i’ve seen it in the programming to save your batteries being depleted too low.
All it would take is a few of us checking what Volts is in the batteries when when the meter says 75%, 50% and 25% and so on.
It can be checked from the settings in the display. Just change the “SOC” in the batteries to percent or voltage and post our results so we can compare them.
I meant to say about this a couple of weeks ago but forgot as I was still the only one able to do it. I would hate for any one to get caught out thinking they had plenty battery left.
I’ll start a brand new thread now just for this so it’s easy for us all to check. Just add to it as you get your results.
I know 54.4v is 100% battery and 41v is where it cuts off so 0% this is where we’d get the accuracy between. I know this because i’ve seen it in the programming to save your batteries being depleted too low.
All it would take is a few of us checking what Volts is in the batteries when when the meter says 75%, 50% and 25% and so on.
It can be checked from the settings in the display. Just change the “SOC” in the batteries to percent or voltage and post our results so we can compare them.
I meant to say about this a couple of weeks ago but forgot as I was still the only one able to do it. I would hate for any one to get caught out thinking they had plenty battery left.
I’ll start a brand new thread now just for this so it’s easy for us all to check. Just add to it as you get your results.
T
Terry777
Guest
MD 1000w mid drive battery meter.
I’ve seen it mentioned a few times that the % for “state of charge” left in the batteries is quite a bit out of sync. This is quite important as your bike will cut out when it gets to 0%! I will get data up as soon as I am able to get some testing done. It’s really easy to do. Just go to...
electricbikereview.com
Battery thread.
T
Terry777
Guest
That data will have been taken on a rolling road with everything set to “perfect” then doubled!
Either that or two guys from Leili got drunk as hell and thought posting those numbers would sell more bikes! Lol
RMK!
Well-Known Member
Since when have manufacturers battery range estimates been accurate and I had 20% left on the battery. I always sprint the final leg home so the battery level dropped quite a bit in the last mile. As soon as I plugged it in to charge the meter said 24%. I was using PAS 5 the whole time and I was pedaling hard so using more juice. I know I could eek out a few more miles if I adopted a more leisurely riding style but I want to ride my way There are so many variables like my being 6'5" 210lbs plus the way I ride so I'm not sure anyone else's numbers would be relevant. I'm going to get that extra battery because I don't want to have to think about it. Just ride.
RMK, does Leilli sell the battery or you buying it from another supplier?
T
Terry777
Guest
I’m sure when I decided to get the second battery it was an extra £200. That was when getting it as an add on to the bike I was buying. I don’t know what they’d charge just buying one on its own, if you got it for 200 quids that would be a more than awesome price. Maybe the sooner to you just buying a bike from them and all the hassle you’ve had getting it will sweeten the deal.
Funny you should ask:
Hi Geoffrey,
Two batteries would be 540 USD plus 300 USD, 840 USD. (slightly better shipping cost than one)
Frank
------------------ Original ------------------
From: Geoffrey Fagan < [email protected]>
Send time: Monday, January 4, 2021 02:26 PM
To: Xu Frank < [email protected]>
Subject: Re: Batteries for MD1000
Thanks Frank. I'm buying a bike from Biktrix, what they call the Juggernaut Ultra Beast, which has the same frame as the MD1000, but I'd buy spare batteries from you.
Is the shipping cost $160 per battery, or can you ship multiple batteries at a time for the same shipping cost? In other words, would 2 batteries shipped cost $700 or $860?
T
Terry777
Guest
Another thing while we’re on batteries, anyone buying spare’s make sure you get the LG 21700 cells. The Samsung 18650’s are what they are calling “old technology”, I dunno how true or not true that is and if it makes any real difference. You don’t wanna be paying new prices for old tech if you can help it.
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